"Official" Yamaha RX-A1000/RX-A2000/RX-A3000 thread - Page 253

Assign the two inputs you do use to the one of the first four Scenes and use the Scene buttons under the front cover to select the inputs.

The receiver is really just ment to be controlled using the remote control, which as you've bought a demo-unit, I'm guessing you may not have. I don't think I've ever actually used the input selector on the front of my receiver.

Am i correct that the 1000/2000/3000 are limited to 7 video sources while the rx-a810 can do nine? Realize the patent absurdity of my question.

The RX-A1000/2000/3000 can up to 12 seperate video sources if you assign the component inputs to AUDIO1-4. That would give you AV1-4, V-AUX (HDMI/S-Video/Composite), AV5-7 (HDMI), and AUDIO1-4 (Component).

The RX-A810 seems to support 14: HDMI1-7 (HDMI), V-AUX (HDMI/Composite), AV1-2 (Component), and AV3-6 (Composite).

Probably way more than most people need, although the RX-A810 despite having more total inputs is less flexible.

Did not realize you could assign component to the audio inputs...thought it only worked the other way 'round (assign analog audio to the av inputs).

Just tried to do what you suggested and struck out...

Are you talking about the RX-A1000/2000/3000 or RX-A810? The analogue audio inputs aren't assignable on the RX-Ax000, only the digital audio and compent video inputs can be assigned. (On Screen -> Setup -> Function -> Input Assignment). With the RX-A810 it doesn't appear that any of the inputs are assignable.

I've got component input [B] assigned to AUDIO4 on my receiver so I know it works.

Hi Ross, Thanks for the response. I actually have the remote. I understand your suggestion, and I've got the TV Scene set up for the satellite box already. Which does indeed make things somewhat easier.

But.... the input knob has been something I have always used, even with my previous Yamaha. I typically don't rely on remotes much. With a home theater you end up with a stack of remotes so for the most part I park the majority in a drawer. If I want to switch from watching a blu-ray to a cd for example, I am standing in front of the unit as I insert a CD and I'll reach down and spin the input knob... and every time it's a guess as to which way you need to go to get to desired input. Having to run through a stack of inputs that will never be used is annoying.

What about the situation when you inadvertantly hit the Sirius input on the remote? The annoying prompts to configure etc drive me crazy! I have zero intention to get Sirius or Rhapsody, etc... It would be great to be able to delete/hide these inputs. I can't be alone in this.

So is there really no way to delete/hide the input/source that is unused?

thx,
Bob

Well, I'd just use the Blu-Ray player to play the CD in that case.

In addition to using the Scene buttons, you might all want to consider moving your inputs so they're located next each on the dial. There's no reason why you couldn't use AV2 for an audio-only CD player if that's more convienent.


Fortunately, as I have the Canadian model so that's not a problem for me. No Sirius button on the remote, and none of those Internet music services are supported. I assume though just selecting the input you really wanted would quickly make those prompts go away.


Nope.

Dang. Lucky you! (No Sirius)

I think Yamaha made a mistake in their design in this regard. Like mentioned other mfgr's do allow you to custom tailor the unit.

Thanks for your input. Maybe I'll call Yamaha next week and suggest they consider it as an future enhancement. These are effectively fancy computers now days, should be easily addressed with a firmware change. (Just like they added Pandora ...)

Thanks again,
Bob

Are you sure the component is assigned to audio4 or audio4 is assigned to the av input corresponding with that component input?

Yes, the HDMI board is most likely dead. I had the exact same thing happen to my previous avr (a denon) , and the tv HDMI was also blown... Had to replace the avr and had the tv repaired.

It was all on surge protectors and no source components were damaged. Very weird.

Yes. Pressing AUDIO4 button on the remote to see what's connected to the [B] component input. Switching to AV2, where [B] is assigned to by default, now only shows me the receiver's wallpaper.

Ivan

Do you know where I can find the service manual?

I have to try anything. Send it to USA to repair is more expensive than buy a new one!

Thanks

Mauricio

No.. I don't know where to find the service manual. Even if you had the service manual, it's quite possible it would require you to obtain the part and do a full swap. I don't think it's as easy anymore to do chip replacement on some of these boards since the contacts are very small.

Try here:

http://faq.yamaha.com/us/en/article/...oduct_receiver

Parts/Manuals/Service Manuals/Remote replacements for your Yamaha AV products are available from our parts department. Please keep in mind that we may not have inventory of older products. To contact the MCS Parts department, please dial 1-714-522-9888, Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 12:00 noon. Then from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. for further assistance.

Regards,

There's a link to the service manuals somewhere in this thread. You want the one for the RX-V3067, what your receiver is called in Japan and most of the rest of the world.

If you don't have much experience with taking apart electronics and putting them back together you might want to consider carefully if you want try to make this repair yourself. Replacing the digital board (the one with the HDMI input chips that are probably fried) should be relatively easy but there's still a lot of parts you need to remove first and then put back in correctly. You could spend up lots of money on getting the replacement part and end up with a completely broken receiver.

Does that mean you have to configure the receiver to show the decoder in use? If so, can you point me to the menu option?

I use the "info" button on the front panel of the AVR. It has a few settings, one of which is the decoder in use. -Bob

Thanks, that helped. I just had to press the Info button once, amazing Yamaha decided to stick the "Info" button on the receiver & not the remote.

I'd like to suggest Monitor Audio. I have the current Bronze series (BX), and I'm very satisfied. If you can find some to audition, give them a try.

Anyway, as someone pointed out, it might be easier for us to help you if you gave us a budget range.

Regards,

VMat

All these protectors have a limit on what they can do. And some components are more sensitive than others. Particularly in blackouts, sometimes the power swings quickly a few times between totally off and totally on, not necessarily triggering the surge protections, but creating unexpected conditions that can kill some components inside your gear.

Bottomline: I don't trust $?,000 worth of equipment to surge protectors. When the storms come, I turn off the main switch in my HT (a simple DPDT switch in a power strip). Actually, I turn it off whenever I'm not using it. It also saves some energy by shutting everything off instead of leaving everything in standby mode.

Might be a suggestion. Just my two cents.

Note: Even with such a switch, there's a chance that all the wiring between the units will create a ground loop, which in turn may be affected by a lightning strike falling close enough. That one is hard to avoid.

Regards,

VMat

In my case it was a lightning strike.. I heard the lightning strike and the TV went dark lol.. I've talked to a few people and all say I couldn't have had a direct strike since my electronics would've been on fire. I'm not sure why only the HDMI ports got nuked, nothing else on the house was nuked.. well , my wireless router died. Stuff connected to it via ethernet? Those were fine... very selective and capricious damage.

Maybe it was an EMP of some sort hehe...

Thanks everyone for the responses.


Yeah it helps somewhat but I still hear some slight shrillness.


Thanks, good idea. I'd love to replace the center along with the fronts initially.


At the moment my budget isn't too large, around $300-500 total. I'm not sure if that is enough without saving up more to get some good speakers (at least fronts and center). My room is roughly 15' length by 12' wide by 7' tall.




So it sounds like NHT, Paradigm, Polk PSB, Kefs, ML, and Monitor Audio are some good ones to try. I'd sure like to find some with good return policies in case I still hear the shrillness. I've found some of these brands one Ebay but usually the sellers don't want to ship so it's local pickup only.

At the moment I've gone to rather extreme measures and disabled the tweeters in my fronts and center channel which removes the shrillness but of course doesn't sound great. One other thought, would upgrading the caps in the crossovers make a very big difference, i.e. replacing the electrolytics with metallized polypropolene? Thanks

Add aperion to the list. And it is absolutely free to try them out in your home for 30 days (they pay return shipping).

http://www.aperionaudio.com/home.aspx

Wow, that is an awesome return policy! Are you using Aperion speakers with your Yamaha? If so how does it sound? (I'm guessing they would sound great!)

Yes. I am using Verus Grand Towers as mains. A Verus Grand Center, and Verus Grand Bookshelves as front presence. (Throw in an SVS PC13U sub, and 4 eMotiva surrounds, and that's the whole speaker system.)

Pics because I'm proud:









The center is now on a custom made stand to raise it up off the floor.

So far, I like the aperions. Certainly can't find any issues to complain about when it comes to their customer service!

-Kevin

Yes, it probably was.

The people you've talked to are right. If the lightning strike had fallen directly on the electrical network near your house, your (and your neighbors') electronics would have been on fire.

However, even if it doesn't fall directly on the network, it will induce electrical current in any closed loop of conductive material nearby that is in a convenient position (notice that "conductive" here depends on several factors - for example, in the right conditions, even the air can be conductive). And that's the main idea behind the EMP.

Given all the factors that affect the intensity of the induced current - the intensity and change rate of the strike, the distance between the strike and the equipment, the geometry of the circuits in the equipment and their positions relative to the strike, if I didn't forget anything -, the effect on different pieces of equipment may seem random, or "selective", if you prefer.

A little story: my neighbor had some condition in his electrical installation that would disturb the network in my house everytime there was a lightning storm. Once my mom saw sparks coming out of the mains outlet beside her bed. Another time, our stereo receiver turned on, and wouldn't turn off anymore - the mechanical on/off switch was "welded" by the surge, and it took a few hours and several switchings to make it turn off. We lived with that for years. Then one day my neighbor made a big remodelling on the whole house, changed lots of wires, etc., and the problem went away.

VMat

Nice rig, Kevin!

I've been hemming and hawing about making the step up from my Boston Acoustics VR3/VR12 front soundstage to the Aperion Verus Grand LCRs, just haven't broke down yet. Everything I've seen and read to this point leads me to believe it would be a worthwhile upgrade, particularly as I'm using external amplification ( Emotiva UPA-7) with my RX-A2000. I'm also using Emotiva ERDs for my surround and surround backs, great bang for the buck on them.

Also considering an upgrade to a tab tensioned screen like you have, probably much easier if you could just will your rig to me... -TD

Thanks Tom! I'm using a bit of external amplification in my rig currently. An old repurposed ADCOM 2535 running the front presence channels. I have a Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature (5x405) in the upstairs theater that REALLY should be moved into this one...but that rig upstairs REQUIRES external amplification (Lexicon MC8 processor), and I don't have a spare 5 channel amp around. I've been watching audiogon for a used eMotiva 5 channel amp, but they don't come up very often, and not for very affordable (vs. new) prices. Since this amp (the emotiva, or whatever I end up with) will only be used in the upstairs theater, I'm not inclined to spend very much on it...

The motorized tab tensioned screen was a must, since, as you can see, the basement is multi-purpose...and I didn't want my kids deciding that it looked like a white-board. ;-)

I could will the rig to you, but it wouldn't do you much good. You'd have a hard time prying it out of my cold, dead hands. ;-)

Excellent idea, if I didn't get my UPA-7 at it's lowest price point, I would've gone used for sure. Had a Sunfire Cinema Grand 5x200 at one point, hated to see it go, but the UPA does a very good job filling in. The RX-A2000 has plenty of power, but ever since I went with external ampification some years ago, I can't see myself w/out it.


My finished basement is split, one side open to whatever, the other a dedicated theater and bar/wet bar in the back. I don't have to worry about the kiddos unless my neices and/or nephew are over, I want a tab tensioned simply to replace my temporary pull-down Da-Lite. I also still have an older rear projection TV I use for short term watching/listening, but it'd be nice to have the motorized screen option. Just out of curiosity, who did you go with for it? I've been looking at Visual Apex's new tab tensioned screens as well as an Elite CineTension2.

Well... I'd be willing to give it a shot! -TD

I got a 133" Tensioned Contour Electrol with Cinema Vision 1.3 material. I personally think that it is closer to 1.0, though. I had to pay extra to have the projector automatically raise and lower the screen.

-Kevin