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So planning to buy a new system, can I run the factory speaker wire behind the wall?

post #1 of 14
8/6/10 at 7:46am
Thread Starter 
I never did this before, but I'm in the market for a new system soon. Nothing crazy, my budget for a HTIB is about $600 Canadian. But I would like to run the wire behind the wall, can I use the speaker wire that comes with the system, or is using this wire against regulations? I see a lot of set up's that are behind the wall that are with thicker wire than what usually comes with a HTIB system.

Will I have to buy new thicker speaker wire than what comes with the system?

I'm sorry for my noobish post but I know next to nothing about this stuff.
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post #2 of 14
8/6/10 at 7:56am
I'm not sure about Canadian law, but in the US the National Electric Code requires that wires run inside walls be made with low toxic smoke, heat resistant insulation...Class CL2 or CL3 in code speak. Check your local electric wiring codes, I would not be surprised if Canadian requirements were similar or a higher standard.

Also, the wiring provided with an HTiB is usually very small gauge (small wire diameter) and it would be best if you replaced it with the proper in-wall wiring of 16 gauge or 14 gauge.
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post #3 of 14
8/6/10 at 7:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by techsea View Post

I never did this before, but I'm in the market for a new system soon. Nothing crazy, my budget for a HTIB is about $600 Canadian. But I would like to run the wire behind the wall, can I use the speaker wire that comes with the system, or is using this wire against regulations? I see a lot of set up's that are behind the wall that are with thicker wire than what usually comes with a HTIB system.

Will I have to buy new thicker speaker wire than what comes with the system?

I'm sorry for my noobish post but I know next to nothing about this stuff.

You could run the wire that came with the system, but it is not recommended as it is not certified for inwall use.
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post #4 of 14
8/6/10 at 9:25am
Thread Starter 
O.k thanks for the replies guys. Is it pretty simple to set up wire that is 16 gauge for someone that always just used the factory speaker wire? I assume I also have to buy some kind of plug to the end of the wire so that it fits in the amp.... What kind of plugs would I be looking at purchasing?

Also is there a certain brand of speaker wire I should be looking at? or would anything from homedepot do?
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post #5 of 14
8/6/10 at 9:48am
if the HTiB control box has some sort of propriatery plug on it, then I would cut the old speaker wire off about 10" from the plug and solder or crimp connect the new wires to the old. 10" of small diameter wire will make no difference to the system and you do not have to struggle to fine the right connector.
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post #6 of 14
8/6/10 at 9:55am
Thread Starter 
This is the amp I was looking at btw.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageG...20in%20a%20Box
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post #7 of 14
8/6/10 at 10:29am
As for what speaker wire to buy to run in your walls:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
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post #8 of 14
8/6/10 at 10:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psgcdn View Post

As for what speaker wire to buy to run in your walls:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Would you also recommend these plugs? Is it even necessary to have plugs?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

And would they work well with that receiver?
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post #9 of 14
8/6/10 at 12:03pm
That receiver will accept bare wire. No plugs are necessary if you don't want them.
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post #10 of 14
8/6/10 at 12:13pm
Not to knock code or anything but you know what? As regards the small amount of speaker wire probably being discussed the only way that running factory wires in the wall ever becomes an issue is if the house catches on fire. And if your house catches on fire severely enough to actually melt the insulation off of your speaker wires you got a whole hell of a lot of other things to worry more about than a couple of feet of speaker wire. Those same wires would melt in the exact same way, if the house was on fire, regardless of where they were located, in or out of wall. I am not suggesting that you not use wire that adheres to code, but simply pointing out an inconsistantcy. Looking at the total amount of wire that is located inwall in a home or apartment, it makes sense to have rules governing the material in the jacket, but to suggest that there is a fire hazzard based on the insulation content of a few feet of wire for speakers...
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post #11 of 14
8/6/10 at 12:42pm
I usually recommend the slight added expense of using code complient wiring only because some insurance investigators, if they find owner installed wiring (any kind) that is not code complient, they have grounds to refuse a claim. It's not fair or logical, but it's the business.

many thousands of homes have non-complient wiring, most from pre-code days, of built under other codes. But for a few "loonies" more, why take the chance. Ultimately, its the home owners call.
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post #12 of 14
8/6/10 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by techsea View Post

Would you also recommend these plugs? Is it even necessary to have plugs?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

And would they work well with that receiver?

Banana plugs aren't "necessary" but they're REALLY nice to have. It's so much easier to jam a banana plug in a hole rather than try to finagle a twisted bare wire into the side of a wire nut... It simplifies things GERATLY when you're hooking the system up or moving it around.

As for what type, I prefer the type where the wire goes in the back. They look cleaner than the type with the set screw, and you don't have to use any tools.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
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post #13 of 14
8/6/10 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaball77 View Post

Banana plugs aren't "necessary" but they're REALLY nice to have. It's so much easier to jam a banana plug in a hole rather than try to finagle a twisted bare wire into the side of a wire nut... It simplifies things GERATLY when you're hooking the system up or moving it around.

As for what type, I prefer the type where the wire goes in the back. They look cleaner than the type with the set screw, and you don't have to use any tools.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

UPDATE: that receiver works with banana plugs for the Front Left and Right speakers only. Bare wire will also work. The rest of the speaker connections will work with bare wire or "pins" only.

What speakers are you using, techsea? If you tell us, we can help with that side of the connection as well.

-Max
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post #14 of 14
8/7/10 at 3:42am
Thread Starter 
The speakers that comes with the ONKYO HT-S3300. That's the system I'm thinking of going with as it seems pretty good for what I need and my budget of $600 Canadian.

So I guess I wont need to buy any plugs than? Or maybe I should just run the speaker wire the system comes with lol. Is there a difference in sound quality with going with new speaker wire instead of the factory wire, or is this really only to have wire that is up to code?

Also, do you guys think the ONKYO HT-S3300 is a capable system for a living room with a size of 12' 7" x 12'? I don't need something that is crazy but something that is decent for the size of this room. I had the z5500 from Logitech before and thought they sounded decent in this size room. Would the ONKYO HT-S3300 be a nice upgrade over this or not so much?

I know feature wise it would be an upgrade, but it terms of actual surround sound levels and base, would this be an upgrade from that?

Any other systems I should look at? Is it possible to get something better in my price range if I buy it all individually instead of a HTIB?
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