Originally Posted by AlVacado
I am trying to split the HDMI signal coming out of the DirecTV receiver. Want one to go into a Mitsubishi 65738 (with optical audio going out from Mits to receiver) so that I can watch 3D DTV channels, and one HDMI signal going out to Yamaha 1800 receiver that is not 3D compatible. Will switch to this when I want to watch conventional DTV channels.
Have tried splitters, but they're not working. need a 1x2 switch.
Looking at either this unit:http://sewelldirect.com/2x1-or-1x2-H...ough_specs.asp
or this unit:http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
The Monoprice one is overkill...
You said earlier that you thought a 1.3 switch would still work for DTV 3D signals, is that correct?
I struggled with this topic a bit, trying to figure out an optimal solution to my particular situation. However, in your situation, since DTV uses HDMI 1.3 to pack the 3D signal, I believe you can just run the signal to your AVR and out to the TV as you would normally for 2D. Switches and splitters get involved when 3D BD is used via HDMI 1.4.
To expound further should you want to get an HDMI 1.4 source, and just to air my current understanding, and if anyone wants to correct any mis-statements, please do.
Switches and splitters do not examine the HDMI data, they just make sure it all gets handshook via EDIDs. So any switch/splitter that can handle HDMI 1.3 can handle HDMI 1.4 (overall bandwidth is the same), since the switches/splitters don't process the video/audio data.
As alk3997 says, if you use switches and splitters that keep everyone talking together, you get the lowest-common-denominator compatibility, which means that if anything is HDMI1.3 (or less), then your HDMI 1.4 3D components will dumb themselves down to non-3D mode.
Similarly, if you use a splitter to send data from a source to your AVR and the TV, the TV's capabilities (e.g. audio) will dumb-down the HDMI signal so that the AVR gets the same info. I guess this is what happened for you? 2 channel audio only when you used the splitter?
So the trick is to make sure that if you are trying to use HDMI 1.4 3D (i.e. from a BD player), you need to make sure everything from source to display are HDMI 1.4. If you use a discrete switch to select sources then the display will only see the one source. If you use a discrete switch/splitter like the one from Sewell, then the signal only goes to the one display device, and the source is happy to send HDMI 1.4 signals. Any AVR in between must be 1.4-compatible, of course.
If you use the matrix switch from Monoprice it will work, as long as the 3D source going to the 3D display is not also selected for the other output going to a non-HDMI1.4 device (because the matrix switch will share all EDID data amongst the devices sharing the same signals, lowest common denominator, etc).
I have ordered discrete (unpowered) switches from Monoprice, and will do the diode-reversing modification to one of them to make it a manual discrete splitter, since that should solve my situation (I only need to have one source and one display device active at any one time, and I need to bypass my HDMI1.3 AVR for 3D BD but would like to use it for all other times).
I did consider the Sewell product, but went for the Monoprice for price and known performance history (others have done what I need to do).
Sorry for the long-winded explanation, just trying to clear my thoughts on the matter too.