HDMI Switch box and 3D - Page 2

First, I appreciate the help and apologize if I'm being obtuse.

How about using an inexpensive HDMI splitter (like this one from monoprice) out of the PS3, sending one to the receiver and one directly to the 3D TV. So for regular Blu-ray use, I run through the receiver as usual. But for 3D discs, I switch to the "direct" input on the TV and use the PS3's optical out for audio. If the lowest common denominator factor comes in to play, couldn't I just unplug the cable sending to the reciever when watching 3D to take it out of the equation?

Nothing wrong with asking. We all want the most efficient solution.

Just ask them what's the total cable max length and whether the box will actually allow manual switching so there is no handshake issue (due to the non-1.4 receiver).

My apology for not looking at the link, I'm on the road and only replying through my Blackberry

I have a HD projector with (2) HDMI 1.3 compliant inputs and the cables from my DVD and Cable Box (both 2D 1080p and 1080i respectively) work fine. I am planning on getting a 3DNow Theater box (along with emitter/glasses and a 3D DVD player). As I currently understand it, this box will take the frame packed input and transmit full 1080p right and left signals sequentially (at a lower frame rate) to a 2D projector; thereby enabling you to watch 3D on a 2D device.

Here's the issue I have. The box itself has (1) 1.4a compliant input and (1) 1.3 compliant output. I will therefore have to use an HDMI switch between the DVD/Cable Box and the 3DNow box and confine myself to using a single HDMI input on my projector (not a problem as it beats having to buy a second box....not cheap). I want to be SURE I get a switch which can handle frame packing (2205x1920). Many of the switches say "HiSpeed" and that they can handle "3D" signals (Kinivo and some MonoPrice switches), but, to me, that is so vague as to be useless as there are different "3D" signals and I can't see anyone who specifically says "this can handle the output of your 3D DVD player".

I'm sure someone out there has to be using a switch between their 3D DVD and 3D TV (which would be equivalent to the connection between my 3D DVD and (soon to be purchased) 3DNow box. I'm quite sure I won't have to change the cable between the 3DNow box and my projector as it will be using the HDMI 1.3 standard to transmit 3D images. I suppose it's too much to hope for that someone out there got a unit of the 3DNow box in advance of general release and uses such a switch?

Does anyone out there have anything they KNOW works?

I just recently learned of this.

I'm trying to figure out how to setup my projector (which will be 3D capable) with my TV (which is not).
I thought just buying a AVR with 2 outs would be all I needed to do... and it's not!

So how does everyone get around this issue? I guess unplugging the TV from the AVR would work but man, what a pain!

Sorry to awaken this old thread, but I am about to buy a 1.4 switch, but this statement about lowest denominator has left me puzzled.


The switch I am looking at is 4 input and 1 output.

I have the following sources:

PS3 fat - 1.3 (are the new slim and super slim 1.4???)
Toshiba XE1 HDDVD - 1.3
Samsung DTV setop box - 1.1

soon Apple TV 3 - 1.3??


My only display is:

Jvx X30


Am I to understand that if I get a 1.4 switch and also connect my DTV box, the output will always be 1.1???????

The new slim and shperslim are 1.4.

You need to buy a switcher with the HIGHEST common denominator. So if you have equipments ranging from 1.1 to 1.4 then you'll need to buy 1.4 compliant switcher. The switcher does not change anything. It will just pass through the original signal.

The only switcher that changes the HDMI spec is the KanexPro 2D to 3D HDMI switcher / converter. Anything goes in there will be converted to HDMI 1.4 when the 2D to 3D mode is set to "on".

I love 3D so using the KanexPro 2D to 3D converter is a must (it's far better than any TV's internal converter.

You can find the KanexPro on eBay and many other online stores.