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Cyclone Cinema Build - Page 5

post #121 of 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Fotto, what did you condsider for materials, drywall of course...cornerbead? mud? tape?

I got another quote for $850 to hang and $1020 to finish. Sounds like that is getting closer to your quotes...I have some more quote requests out there that I am waiting to hear back from.

Regarding the double drywall, I did take that into consideration when asking for quotes. Did you take a look at some of their work before you hired them, or did you trust that they would do a good job?

I called around for quotes on the drywall/delivery (knowing what I needed from my calcs and estimates). Ended up going with a local supply house that did basement delivery for around a $1 a sheet, who also had a good price on sheet cost.

I found a couple local guys who I just felt comfortable with. One in biz for 25 years, and the one I went with worked with a large drywall contractor who was doing stuff on the side (finishing). He hooked me up with a hanging crew. I planned on being involved enough that the hanging part wasn't a big issue. I took more notice on how I felt the finishing was going to go. Got offered references but never followed up on them....had a movie to watch
post #122 of 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

So 10 of the AFCI breakers (at over $40 each) has made me hate how much the costs are adding up on this thing. I decided to get a few quotes for drywall, so I would know if I needed to start planning on doing it myself....

I just emailed a few guys today, saying I wanted a ballpark number for hanging, finishing and texturing 2400 SF of drywall, and a separate price of what they would charge if I hung the drywall myself.

I only got one number back so far, but he said he could do it all for $2380, or it would be $1975 if I hung the sheetrock and cornerbead (done correctly).

Seems like a pretty fair price to me - the discount for me hanging it seemed a bit low. But then again I really dont know what I should be expecting.

I know that some of you guys paid to have yours done, I was hoping to get some suggestions...or feelings about this first quote.

I'm in the Chicago area, and 2 years ago I paid $1900.00 for 55 4x8 sheets (~1750 sq ft) with mudding to a nice smooth primer ready finish. That price was all inclusive with hauling the DW down my "left turn landing" basement stairs.
post #123 of 551
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info guys - it helps a lot.

I have been sick since for the last 4 days so I have been unable to work on the basement. I am close to being ready for the electrical inspection so I had a quick question regarding power recliners.

I planned on putting power in the front edge of riser for the front row recliners, but where should I place the power for the back row? On top of the riser (under where the chairs will sit)? Or just on the back wall?

I dont want to trip over power cords if I use the back wall, so I am hesitant to do that. I am also worried that if I install it on the top of the riser that it risks getting stepped on and broken.

One last question. Two rows of three chairs each...do the chairs all hook up to each other, and use one outlet, or are there three outlets. I just want to know if a single duplex receptacle is okay for each row, or if I need a couple for each row.
post #124 of 551
Thread Starter 
I am happy to report that I passed my "framing inspection" which was pretty much a check on everything that will be behind the drywall.

The inspector only had two comments - the big one was that my smoke detectors had to be hard-wired, and the other comment was that I needed to add a few nailer plates throughout the basement to protect a couple plumbing and electrical lines.

It seems like the job is coming along nicely, but I have a LONG list of things to do before I can even start insulating.
post #125 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quick update. I have been working on electrical work all weekend. Saturday found me installing conduit between the subpanel and main panel, then pulling the wire. After I finished that I figured I had better clean up my messy garage. Today I worked on wiring up the subpanel and got that all finished up.



And a picture showing a little more


It feels like I havent been making any progress, but this electical work takes time, but theres not much to show for it. Having the subpanel so far away from the main panel didnt help much.

Lowes had a sale on JM insulation, so i bought $300 worth and should be able to start hanging that sometime soon.
Hopefully my sound isolation efforts pay off, because I have been listening to the Daytona 500...while working downstairs with the upstairs speakers on...I can hear it clear as day.

I am also thinking really hard about getting a split system for the theater room. Anyone out there that has one I have a quick question about fresh air supply. My furnace does not pull any outside air - it just gets ventilation air from infiltration. I would like to keep from putting any holes that large in the room, but will do it if its necessary. So I would appreciate it if anyone can chime in on this.
post #126 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

I am also thinking really hard about getting a split system for the theater room. Anyone out there that has one I have a quick question about fresh air supply. My furnace does not pull any outside air - it just gets ventilation air from infiltration. I would like to keep from putting any holes that large in the room, but will do it if its necessary. So I would appreciate it if anyone can chime in on this.


Anyone have any ideas or thoughts on this question?

I would like to keep answers in this thread for reference, and for future use for others, but if I don't get any ideas I will just start a new post. I know there are not many people following this thread so my traffice will be better on the main page.

Thanks in advance!
post #127 of 551
Thread Starter 
Made some pretty good progress this weekend. I pulled all my cat 6 and coax cables. Drug down a tv and my 360 to verify that my hdmi cables worked before I covered them up.

Then it was on to insulation. I got 85% of the insulation hung on Sat & Sun. I bought the paper faced insulation - am I supposed to add a plastic vapor barrier before sheetrock, or does the paper face act as the barrier?

I also added nailers to the walls in the theater room to attach the plywood used for the bottom of my soffits.

No pictures right now, I actually just got to work - have a few deadlines coming up that will keep me busy for a couple weeks. Thats alright though - I am waiting on a quote for my split system and I cannot insulate any more in the theater room until I get the lines run for that.

Thats it for now.
post #128 of 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post


Then it was on to insulation. I got 85% of the insulation hung on Sat & Sun. I bought the paper faced insulation - am I supposed to add a plastic vapor barrier before sheetrock, or does the paper face act as the barrier?

In the old days a plastic vapor barrier was a recomended technique for basement walls. However; this has changed dramatically

If your basement stud walls are below grade and adjoining a concrete foundation there are a couple of considerations when using the fluffy stuff for installation (to minimize mold/mildew worries):

1) You should try and have a small air-gap between the fluffy stuff and the concrete. This is why many people choose to use the rigid polystyrene board glued directly against the concrete. The cool and occasionally damp (think condensation) concrete walls can become a source of mildew when the fiberglass insulation is in direct contact. As i understand it the rigid foam board is semipermeable,and this becomes a non-point.

2) You should go with NO vapor barrier, this allows any condensation occuring in the wall cavity to dry into the heated side of the room. (Interesting; in that it is also reccomended that vinyl wallpaper NOT be used on basement walls, because the vinyl covering also acts as a vapor barrier)

If you google search - you will find some publications (HUD?) that also explain these best practices.
post #129 of 551
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info Craig. I did leave a space between the stud walls and the foundation so there shouldn't be any problems there.
post #130 of 551
Brian,

I realized some of these same insulation concerns after my stud walls were up. Therefore I had some of the same concerns. I went a step further to be sure my batt insulation did not touch the walls. I found these wire rods that are sharpened on the ends are meant to be stuck into the joist surfaces between joists to hold fiberglass insulation up between the joists in the ceiling. I simply used these in-between my studs before installing the insulation, to make sure the insulation would not fall back against the concrete walls.
post #131 of 551
Thread Starter 
Back to page 5 to find my thread...that didnt take long.

No real update, other than to ask about photo hosting sites. I just received an email from snapfish saying that I need to order prints from them, or they will quit hosting my photos. I thought it might have been a bluff, but decided to do an online chat with their customer service. Turns out they will quit hosting if I didnt make a purchase.

So I just got done ordering 31 photos. (The first 30 were free) for like $3. I guess its not too bad, but I thought I would ask what site others are using for hosting...somewhere that I wouldnt have to worry about all my photos being deleted.

I would have told them to pack sand, but I didnt want to repath all the links to this thread...and I have gotten so much info from this website that I thought it would be unfair to just let my photos lapse.

Brian
post #132 of 551
Hey Brian just came across your thread looking good! My back hurts looking at all of those concrete pics!
post #133 of 551
Take a look at photobucket for information on hosting your pics. It is free to host but you have a monthly limit on views. If that limit is exceeded, your pics will not be viewable until the month resets. I have not had views exceed the monthly limit but my thread is not all that large. I've seen a larger thread or two with pics unavailable until the 30 day reset. Not sure what the cost is to increase the viewing capacity.

Good luck.
post #134 of 551
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tips on the photo hosting sites.

Finally an update on the basement. We had a few big projects go out at work so zero progress was made on the basement until this past weekend. But I should have some free time the next couple weeks.

Here is what I did over the weekend...








As you can see I have some of the can lights working...this was a huge relief for me, as it was the first opportunity for me to test out my subpanel job...thankfully it worked perfectly. So right now, I have the open room lighting circuit up and running and I wired up the first two receptacles so I would have power for the radio/rotozip/miter saw/battery charger because I had to pull the original power circuit to put up the drywall.

Below is a picture showing an area under the stairwell that we plan on using for a small counter area. Maybe hang a picture on the wall that we can light up using the two small directional can lights I installed above. Looks like its going to turn out pretty well.



Thats all I have right now, but should be able to keep making progress.
post #135 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quick theater room ceiling insulation question. I see quite a few guys using roxul and pack it full in between the joists.

I have no firestopping requirements where I am.

Is it okay to just use the yellow or pink fiberglass?

Should I be completely filling the cavities or can I just put one layer of 6" insulation in? I assume filling the cavity completely is better, but when am I reaching the point of diminishing returns? The ceiling is already decoupled from the joists.
post #136 of 551
I know Ted has chimed in on this subject several times and regular insulation performs better than roxul in a cavity. Also roxul is sized to leave a small air gap in a cavity installation, I think roxul suggests leaving an air gap. FWIW in my current build the ceiling will be decoupled and I have about 2/3 of the cavity filled with fiberglass.

I used roxul rockboard for my bass traps and sound treatments in my last theater and it worked great, but in the ceiling I would just use regular cheap fiberglass.
post #137 of 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Quick theater room ceiling insulation question. I see quite a few guys using roxul and pack it full in between the joists.

I have no firestopping requirements where I am.

Is it okay to just use the yellow or pink fiberglass?

Should I be completely filling the cavities or can I just put one layer of 6" insulation in? I assume filling the cavity completely is better, but when am I reaching the point of diminishing returns? The ceiling is already decoupled from the joists.

Ted has consistently suggested standard R-19....any more and you're into diminishing returns.
post #138 of 551
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys, I figured he had commented on the situation somewhere, but I just couldnt remember where. I really do appreciate the help...glad to see a couple of you are still around...especially without any progress for quite a while.

Put a little more work in down there, just finished drywalling the A/V closet. I had to reframe the opening for the equipment rack, as it was an inch and a half too narrow. All is good now.

As much as I want to get working on the theater room, I need to keep going on the rest of the basement - only because the two piles of sheetrock are sitting IN the theater room.
post #139 of 551
Thread Starter 
So this is a forum for dedicated theaters...and I haven't been working on anything theater related. Sorry about that.

Here is some more non-theater related progress!

I may have mentioned earlier in this thread that my wife wanted a kickass laundry room...so I am splitting an unused formal dining/living room into two separate rooms. I want to get this ready so when I have the basement walls taped/mudded I can have this done at the same time.

Here is the mess that followed...




And after a couple hours of work (mixed in with watching march madness)....this is the final product.


Of course the top beam wasn't a perfect 5.5" so I had to rip all my 2X6's to 5.25"...this will allow me to butt up the new sheetrock up against the old stuff and keep me from having to rip out the crown molding.

Here is a closeup...


I still have to frame up another doorway to separate the kitchen from the new laundry room, but its progress.

On a basement related note, I have finished hanging some more drywall. I have one more piece for the ceiling in the bedroom and then more onto the walls in the bedroom. After that, hang a couple miscellaneous pieces to finish up the stairwell and I will be able to move onto the theater room!

Here is a picture of the stairwell. It shows the opening to the space under the stairwell I will be using as storage.


Here is a picture of the hallway with rock hung...also showing my temporary switch wiring.


Here is a picture of the equipment room with the rock hung...


post #140 of 551
Brian,

Looking Good - You'll be done in no time!!
post #141 of 551
Thread Starter 
Got some more odds and ends finished up this weekend. Straight to the pictures...

I have the bathroom exhaust fan installed in the new bathroom in the basement, but still needed to get the exhaust duct and vent cap installed...


And here is the view of the inside...


Drywall is getting closer...with the exception of the theater room and the bathroom, this is the last piece of drywall to install...


Here is the warzone that will at some point be the theater room. I have some 4" duct ready to be installed. I plan on making a dead vent in the soffit and in front of the screen wash cans.

I am installing OSB to the bottom of the soffit to support the drywall. I have the four corners finished up, but I need to install the rest of the insulation in the ceiling before I hang the rest. I did the four corners because my brother stopped by and I knew it would be much easier to do those with help. Once I finish hanging all the OSB I plan on using my router with a flush trim bit to finish everything up.



Here is the backer box I installed for the projector power/video.


Here is the mega backer box I installed to use with my aux. video cables. I have HDMI, RGB, component, and cat6 running to this location to use in case someone ever brings something over we just want to hook up quickly - it will just be easier to use this location than mess with the equipment rack. I could have made it smaller, but wanted to leave plenty of room to make sure all my cables would fit and have space to hook into the wall plate.


Here is a quick picture of how I installed the OSB around the radon pipe. I will use acoustic caulk around the spaces before I put up the drywall.


Here is what I decided to do to keep access to my cleanout.


Here is the drywall cut out to give me access to the valve for the refrigerator water line. I will install the same type of access box but only after the drywall is finished up... I figured it would hard to finish the corners with the access box in the way...
post #142 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quick question for the pros...what type of fastener did you all use to attach the drywall to the hat channel. Then after the first layer is up, do you use the same type of fasteners (only longer) to again hit the channel?

On another note, I need to decide if I am going to install a split system unit in the theater room...if I do, I need to get the line set installed ASAP because I am about ready to close up the walls/ceiling in the theater. What would you do? Install the mini-split or just open the door up if it starts to get warm?

Looking forward to some answers!
post #143 of 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Quick question for the pros...what type of fastener did you all use to attach the drywall to the hat channel. Then after the first layer is up, do you use the same type of fasteners (only longer) to again hit the channel?

On another note, I need to decide if I am going to install a split system unit in the theater room...if I do, I need to get the line set installed ASAP because I am about ready to close up the walls/ceiling in the theater. What would you do? Install the mini-split or just open the door up if it starts to get warm?

Looking forward to some answers!

Fine thread drywall screws, first layer screw shorter than second layer (same type screw though), both long enough to get three full thread pitches min through the hat channel but short enough not to drive into the joist above the hat. These work nice (Streaker or Scavenger) and are often stocked by drywall supply houses:
http://www.grabberman.com/CatBrowser...oC8ss13%2f8%3d

You're making nice progress with your build.
post #144 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

Fine thread drywall screws, first layer screw shorter than second layer (same type screw though), both long enough to get three full thread pitches min through the hat channel but short enough not to drive into the joist above the hat. These work nice (Streaker or Scavenger) and are often stocked by drywall supply houses:
http://www.grabberman.com/CatBrowser...oC8ss13%2f8%3d

You're making nice progress with your build.

Thanks fotto! I have been using fine thread drywall screws for the rest of the basement. I am pretty sure they will work for the first layer, then I will just have to get some longer ones for the second layer.
post #145 of 551
Thread Starter 
Well, I just pulled the trigger on a 1 ton split system. Wall mounted indoor and outdoor units, no condensate pump (i can gravity drain to a floor drain that is 3' away), 50' line set (25' was going to be cutting it a little too close - now I have full flexibility on where I want to set the condensing unit), and it includes the heating option (not that I need it, but it was only a $30 add).

All told, it should run me right at $850...which I thoguht was super-reasonable.

My guy is going to get it ordered ASAP so that I recieve the line set quickly, as I want to seal up my walls any day now.

I started putting insulation in the ceiling joists of the theater room last night....talk about itchy....it wasnt bad when I was doing the walls, but the ceiling was terrible. Half done with that though.

My buddy is over in the desert right now and his wife called saying they had mice and/or bats in their attic. She called a pest inspector that wanted $800-$1000 just to seal up the holes into the attic - she had me talk to the guy and I politely told him to pack sand....so tonight I will be doing some mouse/bat mitigation work...probably wont have much time to work on the basment tonight.
post #146 of 551
Great deal on the split unit - what brand / model are you getting?
post #147 of 551
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Great deal on the split unit - what brand / model are you getting?

Brad, it is a Quietside Coaire. I could have went with a higher quality Samsung unit, but I figured with the limited use this thing would see that I would save some money.

It will output 250 cfm @ 36 db on low and 370 cfm @ 44 db on high...should be quiet enough for my needs.

I was hesitant before I pulled the trigger, but now I am getting excited!

post #148 of 551
Thread Starter 
I am meeting a contractor in an hour to look over the basement so he can put an estimate together for finishing the drywall. I still do not have an ETA on the line set for my split system...that is going to be the main holdup for the drywall guy. I plan on getting one more in-home quote before making my decision.

Hopefully the prices come back favorably and I will be looking at having drywall done in a couple weeks....if they come back too expensive, I may end up doing it myself...and then the drywall completion time will be measured in months - not weeks.
post #149 of 551
Thread Starter 
The meeting with the contractor went well. They seemed very happy with the quality of my drywall hanging job, so thats a plus. Still waiting on a formal estimate - hopefully it comes back favorably, because I REALLY dont want to tape/mud/sand!

I had planned on getting a bunch of work done on the theater this weekend, but the weekend is gone and I got NOTHING done. On the way to the racetrack on Friday my pickup started acting up. On the way home that night I stopped to fuel up and checked under the hood. I ended up throwing the secondary serpentine belt. I limped it home with plans to fix it quick saturday morning.

Saturday morning came and found me working on the pickup. Turns out the bearing went out on the tensioner pulley, which in turn threw the belt. I installed a new bearing and belt, figuring that would fix my problem....it didnt.

So I gave up on that for the moment and had to switch gears....to my wifes car. It had been making an annoying hum so I figured a wheel bearing had gone out...luckily I was correct this time. I got that switched out and the noise went away.

On Sunday I went on a central Iowa home theater crawl. I got to see four awesome theaters and met quite a few great AVS personalities. It pretty much killed my whole day, but was definately worth it!

Tonight found me finally working on the theater again. I am trying to tie up all the loose ends in order to be able to get the drywall guy in. One of these loose ends is the bathroom. I still need to install drywall in that room, but to do that I need to get my shower curb installed....so I can install the cement board...so I can install the purple drywall.

From the way I understand it, the tile shower I am planning on requires a few steps:

Step 1: install a prepan
Step 2: install rubber membrane
Step 3: install sloped floor and curb

I really dont want to be redoing this in a few years, so I spent a little extra money and bought all my materials from The Tile Shop here in town just to make sure I get it right.

Step 1 was completed tonight, here is a picture, although you cant really see the slope...I assure you its there.


You can see that there is a stud or two missing in the picture, I had removed that because when I originally installed the wall, there was a stud directly where the mixing valve is to be located.

So the thread is now up to date. I need to wait 24 hours before I can start step 2 . If anyone knows a smart, nice diesel mechanic that likes to offer troubleshooting advice, feel free to let me know. I am tired of smoking out the car behind me!
post #150 of 551
Thread Starter 
Work got me an iPhone this week... Just testing out this app. I have some progress that I will update tomorrow. But only after I finish rebuilding the turbocharger I have pulled out of my pickup at the moment...yikes!
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