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Cyclone Cinema Build - Page 6

post #151 of 524
Thread Starter 
Well, the turbo has been pulled, cleaned up and reinstalled - but the truck is still running rough. Went looking at pickups yesterday afternoon - didnt find quite what I was looking for though.

Back to the build...

Here is the bathroom shower with the curb and liner installed...


Here is a view showing the curb and how the liner is held in the middle...


Here is the shower drain assembly with the liner cut...


Here is the shower waiting for the floor mud...with the drain assembled with the pre-sloped forms. First, let me say that I am by no means good at concrete work...that presloped plastic was a lifesaver for me!


And here is the final product...


If you notice the difference in color, it is due to the fact that I ran out of mud halfway through finishing the curb. I had to quit for the night and pick up more the next day before I finished up.
post #152 of 524
Thread Starter 
Well, after a few days of drying, the color change in the shower curb has gone away. Makes me feel a little better. I have also installed the mixing valve, shower head support and all associated hot and cold water piping.

Other big news - I dont have to worry about fixing my powerstroke anymore...but its a double-edged sword, as I now have less money to put towards the theater. See below.



Sorry about the poor picture quality...it was taken with the iPhone.

So, the truck payment will come directly from the money I have been putting towards the basement. Expect slower progress - especially because I have some expensive parts coming up (carpet/flooring, cabinets, etc)

But its a pretty nice vehicle (a big change from my old truck with 326,000 miles on it)!
post #153 of 524
Thread Starter 
I got the cement board put up on the shower walls, and the ceiling drywall in the bathroom completed. I did, however, run into a problem. I installed a shower valve (Moen if that matters) and I can't get it to completely shut off.

I can tell its not from the fittings at the valve because I hooked up the shower head support and thats where the slow drip is coming from.

Does anyone know if there is a trick, or a way to adjust the mixing valve to acheive full shutoff?
post #154 of 524
Brian

Very NICE! With 326K on the old one - I think you more than deserved a new one.
By chance; might that be one of the new Ford "EcoBoost V6s ?
post #155 of 524
Thread Starter 
It IS one of the new Ecoboost engines!
post #156 of 524
Then we need a full report when you've put a few miles on!
post #157 of 524
Cool!

Although perhaps too new to say for sure;
How's your first impressions for responsiveness, turbo lag, highway mileage, etc...
post #158 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Cool!

Although perhaps too new to say for sure;
How's your first impressions for responsiveness, turbo lag, highway mileage, etc...


Definately too new to give a proper review, as I have less than 100 miles on it. I have only driven it between the dealership a couple times, then back and forth to work (all in town driving).

The cabin is super quiet and when merging onto the interstate I can be up to 80 quickly without realizing it.

That said, I owned a 6.0L powerstroke before this and the turbo lag was terrible! The ecoboost turbos are not instantly there, but the lag is GREATLY reduced. I can not comment on highway mileage yet, but the city driving I have been doing I have averaged between 13 and 14 mpg.

All this said, I have read that the mpg numbers will increase over the first couple thousand miles (doesnt make too much sense, but hopefully they are right)

Give me some time to put a few thousand miles on it and I will update my review. I know the Ecoboost technology is pretty new, so hopefully it wasnt a mistake...but with dual turbos, it doesnt FEEL like a mistake!
post #159 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quick update, of no progress. I have gotten a few things done on the upstairs laundry room - that room is now ready for the drywall finisher to start.

The basement work has come to a halt, as I am finished with everything I can do for now except the theater room...and I am STILL waiting on a line set for my split system! 2 weeks ago it was supposed to be here on that tuesday, last week it was be here last tuesday, now is supposed to be here today....guess what, no word! So its kind of frustrating that I ordered it soon enough in advance as to not cause any problems...and it turns out that it IS causing problems!

I shouldn't complain too much though, as it allowed me to get some yard work accomplished that I would have put off if there was something for me to work on in the basement.

So hopefully it will show up one of these days and I will be able to keep making progress.

The shower quit leaking, not sure what the problem was...I played around with the valve a while - switching it on and off and it seems like if I close it hard, the drip stops. We shall wait and see if it starts back up.
post #160 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post


The shower quit leaking, not sure what the problem was...I played around with the valve a while - switching it on and off and it seems like if I close it hard, the drip stops. We shall wait and see if it starts back up.

Did you use copper for the plumbing to the shower valve?

The only things that come to mind with a leaky valve are some debris didn't get flushed out after connecting everything. It got too hot while sweating the tubing, and either distorted in some way, or one of the seals was damaged. Also, some valves will have a temporary strainer that you have to take out after flushing the system (I think, it's been a long time since I've put one in).
post #161 of 524
Thread Starter 
I used all pex tubing, crimp rings and copper fittings with teflon tape. I will check to see if there is a strainer or something that needs to be taken out - didnt even think of that. I will also work on flushing the system out a little more, maybe there some dirt of debris caught somewhere.

Thanks for the tips!
post #162 of 524
I got the cement board put up on the shower walls, and the ceiling drywall in the bathroom completed. I did, however, run into a problem. I installed a shower valve (Moen if that matters) and I can't get it to completely shut off.

I can tell its not from the fittings at the valve because I hooked up the shower head support and thats where the slow drip is coming from.

Does anyone know if there is a trick, or a way to adjust the mixing valve to acheive full shutoff?

Turn the water off, remove the handle, remove the plastic limiting stop pieces, (go to moens website for parts breakdown) remove the round long tube exposing the bare brass valve and cartridge, there is a wire clip which works like a c-clip remove that then pull the cartridge assembly out. Clean the cartridge assembly, lubricate and reinstall. (heat proof grease preferred but dish soap will keep the seal from getting torn)
post #163 of 524
ohh sorry. Usually what happens is there is some debris from the manufacturer or from the pipe work. pay attention to how the limiting stop works to control temperature (should be in owners manual) I generally adjust for full hot.

If none of this works.. take it back and buy a delta
post #164 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intricate1 View Post

ohh sorry. Usually what happens is there is some debris from the manufacturer or from the pipe work. pay attention to how the limiting stop works to control temperature (should be in owners manual) I generally adjust for full hot.

If none of this works.. take it back and buy a delta

Haha, that funny. I am a Delta fan, but I let the wife pick out the style....and brands don't matter to her as much as looks...it should be fine, the drip has actually stopped, but I just want to make sure it doesnt start back up.

In other news, my rep for the split system emailed me tonight and said that half the unit is in, and the other half is due in sometime tomorrow...that means I can make some progress this weekend!
post #165 of 524
Thread Starter 
So because my split system should be delivered today or tomorrow, I have been thinking about mounting locations. I know for sure I will be putting it on the back wall, as I need to run a condensate drain, and the floor drain is nearby.

The question I have is how high should I (or need) to mount the sytem? The installation manual says to mount it a minimum of 6' off the floor...because of this I am assuming that the air blows out the bottom front of the unit.

I know I remember seeing one or two instances of people installing split systems in their theaters....but I can not remember or find the people who did. I know someone here should be able to remember, so I would appreciate someone pointing me in the right direction.

I just want to check out the thread and see how they installed their indoor unit, and how it is performing.

I want to mount it low on the wall, so it will be visually less intrusive. It would also force me to mount my rear surrounds right next to the unit (one on each side).
post #166 of 524
Brian, I believe that Cathan installed one.
JMHO, I don't have one but I would be under the impression that it would be optimal to blow the air up and out (maybe 45% up from horizontal) in order to get the cool air distributed throughout the room. Start higher and then it falls upon the people, know what I mean? If it's blowing down, maybe behind your rear seating (sorry forget if you have a second row or not) seems that if it was blowing downward it would be less effective.

I'd really try to understand how the airflow exits the unit and then determine optimal mounting for best efficiency.
post #167 of 524
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input Fotto, I totally agree with your reasoning. It's just that the dang thing will look ugly hanging on the wall where everyone can see...I would much rather hang it behind/below the second row of seats.

I will know more by tomorrow!

Also, thanks for pointing me towards Cathan's thread - I will check that out tonight. I looked through carboranadum's 25ish pages of build thread thinking he was the guy with one... I knew someone here would remember!
post #168 of 524
Well, don't mind me too much I'm sure that air will distribute around..I tend to get into analysis paralysis which drives me buggy. Speaking of things that drive you buggy, did you ever hear about the Amish prostitute? She had 6 Mennonite and they drove HER buggy

BA-BUM.

Sorry. Lots of Amish and Mennonite around my neck of the woods.
post #169 of 524
just to keep your wife and you from having heartbreak, Since you bought a moen valve you are going to be very particular of the depth of the valve versus depth of the wall. Because of how the handles mount and no adjustments available what often happens is there is a gap between the back of the handle and the faceplate (this is not adjustable after all your beautiful tile is in) so please before you close the wall in mock up your tile thickness and put the faceplate and handle on. What i'm talking about will be very evident once you do this. It is purely a cosmetic issue, however it annoys the hell out of most homeowners who see this. If the valve is too far back it will rub (that has an extension available) if it is too far out the gap is unsightly. They sell a $50 trim ring ($50 for chrome colors extra ) designed to take up this gap but it is ugly too and only is available in one depth.
post #170 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intricate1 View Post

just to keep your wife and you from having heartbreak, Since you bought a moen valve you are going to be very particular of the depth of the valve versus depth of the wall. Because of how the handles mount and no adjustments available what often happens is there is a gap between the back of the handle and the faceplate (this is not adjustable after all your beautiful tile is in) so please before you close the wall in mock up your tile thickness and put the faceplate and handle on. What i'm talking about will be very evident once you do this. It is purely a cosmetic issue, however it annoys the hell out of most homeowners who see this. If the valve is too far back it will rub (that has an extension available) if it is too far out the gap is unsightly. They sell a $50 trim ring ($50 for chrome colors extra ) designed to take up this gap but it is ugly too and only is available in one depth.

Intricate,

Thanks for the heads up. I had to grin while I read through your post because when I pulled it out of the box I was truly puzzled for awhile. I ended up sitting on my bucket of green glue for over a half hour trying to figure you just how to make it work correctly...I am pretty sure I have it correct, but thanks for the heads up! Also, if it turns out that I DID screw it up, I actually have access to the back of the shower valve from my storage closet! It was one of those things that I actually planned ahead for!

Thanks again for the heads up though, I really appreciate your (and everyone elses) help! The fewer mistakes I make on the way to the final product, the better.
post #171 of 524
having access behind showers is a great idea, used to be it was common practice. Should be in good shape since you can always reposition later.
I have spent countless hours arguing depth of tile and walls with people over this seemingly simple issue.
post #172 of 524
Thread Starter 
I finally have the split system in my posession and I have no time to install it. The inlaws came over Saturday and on Sunday I shingled a coworkers house with him. Now we are swamped at work and my time to work on the basement will be severly limited.

I hung line set tonight before dinner and I need to install an electrical line before I can finish insulation and put up the soffit and drywall. Stopped by Home Depot to pick up 50' of 10-2 and of course they were out...and I didnt feel like buying 100' of it, as its kinda pricey.

I have two graduation parties to attend this next weekend, so progress will be limited over the next week and a half...it sucks because I am so excited to get the last of the drywall hung so I can bring someone in to tape and mud.
post #173 of 524
Thread Starter 
Okay, I have had no obligations this weekend...so I have made progress on the theater.

I will post pictures later tonight or tomorrow, but I have a quick question that I need an answer to as soon as possible. I know quite a few people have installed hat channel with clips so there should be some expertise out there (hopefully reading my thread).

My question is this. I have one layer of sheetrock on the ceiling (that has channel and clips) and when I push up and down on the sheetrock there seems to be a rattle...is that normal before the second layer of sheetrock goes on? I just dont want to apply my green glue to the second sheet and find out that I did something wrong.

I know it has to be a rattle between the channel and the clips, as there is no ductwork or anything else installed yet to be rattling. I think/hope the additional weight of the second layer of drywall will get rid of the problem...but that would be a huge waste of GG and drywall if I had to tear it out. I would REALLY be mad if I had a completed theater with rattling clips and channel.

FYI, I have enough extra drywall to put on a third layer, but I only installed enough clips for two layers (per the clip manufactures information).

I bought the clips from thesoundproofing company, hopefully ted is reading this and can reply.

The reason I wanted a quick response is because I wanted to get all the drywall up tonight/tomorrow in order to get a finisher in to give me a quote...I told him I would be done this weekend and he could come early next week to check it out.

Thanks in advance!
post #174 of 524
Thread Starter 
The winner is Ted! I PM'd him right after I posted my question above. He already replied and said it was completely normal. One of the reasons thesoundproofingcompany is the greatest! Where else can you get an answer to your question within the hour (on a Saturday evening)!

Now I can get out the green glue and make a mess!
post #175 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quick update, I have all the drywall up! I ended up with about 6 extra sheets, but will just cover my storage room walls (as I dont want to carry it up the steps!). I have a drywall guy coming in an hour to give me a firm quote on finishing it all...hopefully that comes out favorable, as I have NO desire to finish all that drywall myself. I do have one small soffit to build that will hold my screen wash can lights and supply grille.

I still need to carry the scraps out, sweep up and put down rosin paper.

I am glad this phase is about complete...seems like I have been at it a LONG time.

Pictures to come.
post #176 of 524
Congrats Brian! Drywall is the worst. Paying to have it finished is money well spent.
post #177 of 524
Thread Starter 
So I finally have a bit of free time to post pictures before I go back to work. I now know why I havent posted any pictures lately....they are just boring.

Here they are anyways.

Here is a view into the theater room showing the soffit enclosed with osb.


Here is another view inside the theater room


Here is a view of the back wall of the theater room with the first layer of drywall up. You can see the plywood in areas that will be used to support the surround speakers, and you can also see the plywood that will be used to support the projector. Also shown is the Coaire split system that is mounted on the wall.


Here is a good picture of the speaker support. On the left side of the picture you can see the minimal amount of space I have for door trim. I am just going to have to cut down the door trim when it comes to install it.

Here is a closeup of the back wall. You can see the split system, outlets for the power and video cables for the projector and the osb support for the soffit bottom. It took some extra time to trim all the drywall to fit, I used acoustic caulk on all seams before I started the second layer. I also added a bunch of green glue to the second layer to help out a bit. You can also see the two holes I cut in the OSB in order to complete my suction/liquid line connections.


Here is the power for the riser seating and riser step lights.


I dont have any good pictures, but here is proof that the cement board and purple board are up in the bathroom.


Here is where the basement sits right now! My wife helped me lay rosin paper last night to get ready for the drywall finisher (he was supposed to start today, but only dropped off the materials).


So I am finally caught back up. I have the walls and sheetrock up for the upstairs laundry room, but I dont have any pictures and that is pretty boring anyways.

I will probably take a few pictures of the progress of the drywall finishing as it progresses.
post #178 of 524
Thread Starter 
So while I wait for the drywall to get finished, I can start dreaming about the theater room....primarily speakers. And to be more exact, surrounds and subs.

I need some ideas for each. Here is what I was planning....but I can EASILY be convinced to change plans if someone has a comelling reason.

Subwoofer first. I was planning on building a THT, I would like to keep the sub DIY if possible, as I have heard that you can get much more bang for your buck if you go that route. That being said, I have heard good things about the THT, but would like to get some other ideas.

The thing is, I dont really even know what I want....I dont think I really need the huge SPL numbers, and would rather have a sub that doesnt drop off until the mid teens....

Whatever I do build, I will likely be happy with it...I was just looking for alternatives to the THT.

Now to surrounds. I have wired for a 7.1 setup even though my current receiver is only a 5.1. I will likely buy a new receiver with pre-outs and get an emotiva amp and call it a day. When looking around for amps, I ran across the emotiva surrounds (the ERD-1's). They have the capability to be switched from bipole to dipole which would give me the opportunity to fine tune my sound when it comes down to it.

Maybe the ERD-1's are overpriced and I am wasting my money buying a switchable speaker. Is it better just to buy a different speaker designed for the sides and rears? Price wise I think the ERD's are towards the top end of what I would be willing to pay for surrounds.

What it really comes down to, is that I have no idea what I am actually looking for, and there are a lot of people out there that know way more than I do about this stuff. For reference, I will be using a pair of DIY Statements for the mains and the center.

Any advice is appreciated.
post #179 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post


Now to surrounds. I have wired for a 7.1 setup even though my current receiver is only a 5.1. I will likely buy a new receiver with pre-outs and get an emotiva amp and call it a day. When looking around for amps, I ran across the emotiva surrounds (the ERD-1's). They have the capability to be switched from bipole to dipole which would give me the opportunity to fine tune my sound when it comes down to it.

Maybe the ERD-1's are overpriced and I am wasting my money buying a switchable speaker. Is it better just to buy a different speaker designed for the sides and rears? Price wise I think the ERD's are towards the top end of what I would be willing to pay for surrounds.


Any advice is appreciated.

I dont have much experience with speakers so my opinion may not have a great affect. However I do own a pair of the ERD-1's and I can tell you that you wouldn't be wasting your money. I use mine as rear surrounds and are stupid close to my listening point but they are without a doubt the best speakers in my set up. I didn't know to much about Emotiva but I heard great things about their amps. So thats where I started off with a UPA-7 then I decided to give their speakers a try.

I got the ERD-1's on sale during their spring sale promotion for $319 shipped. To be honest with you I would have spent the full price on them knowing what they sound like now. With their customer service and the quality of work they put into their products anything they offer is not overpriced.

Matt
post #180 of 524
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattPutt View Post

I dont have much experience with speakers so my opinion may not have a great affect. However I do own a pair of the ERD-1's and I can tell you that you wouldn't be wasting your money. I use mine as rear surrounds and are stupid close to my listening point but they are without a doubt the best speakers in my set up. I didn't know to much about Emotiva but I heard great things about their amps. So thats where I started off with a UPA-7 then I decided to give their speakers a try.

I got the ERD-1's on sale during their spring sale promotion for $319 shipped. To be honest with you I would have spent the full price on them knowing what they sound like now. With their customer service and the quality of work they put into their products anything they offer is not overpriced.

Matt


Thanks for the review! Unless I get some reasons not to use ERD's and THT's, that is what I will be doing. I have been PM'ing with Tedd and he may have convinced me to build two THT LPs and set them pointing towards the ceiling.

One question I do have it about speaker placement. Everyone says to not place your speakers in a corner...will setting a couple THTs between my two mains be just like putting up a wall?

I might have to draw up a quick layout of the space behind my screenwall...just to get a good idea of what I have to work with.
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