Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A 
If I understand your situation correctly, it sounds like you are going to need to remove a few boards and replace them. Assuming the subfloor is not also warped, I would cut out a board or two using a chisel or anything you can get your hands on. It doesn't have to be pretty, you just don't want to hurt the adjacent boards. Once you get one out, or even a portion of one, you can usually work out the remaining portion of that board as well any others that are affected without having to pull up the adjacent good boards. It's not fun, and can be time consuming depending on how flat your floor is and what else is holding down the laminate. After that, you put in as many boards as you can using the interlocking mechanism (you might have to slide some in). Again, probably not fun, and probably takes longer than you want if your floor is good and flat. For the last few (one if you can make it work out), you will probably have to cut off the locking tab, and glue it to the adjacent boards. The last time I did this, I was able to leave the tab on one side which allowed for a good glue surface, but I had to cut the other locking tab off. I put a little glue on the edge anyway. Most squeezed out when I pushed the board down, but I figured if any was left, it was better than nothing. I used regular wood glue. And just to clarify, I'm talking about gluing the wood together, not gluing to the floor .
Now, if this is on a wood subfloor, you might even be able to put a few face nails in that last board. The argument there being the floor can't float and you might end up with buckling in the future depending on the layout.
If I understand your situation correctly, it sounds like you are going to need to remove a few boards and replace them. Assuming the subfloor is not also warped, I would cut out a board or two using a chisel or anything you can get your hands on. It doesn't have to be pretty, you just don't want to hurt the adjacent boards. Once you get one out, or even a portion of one, you can usually work out the remaining portion of that board as well any others that are affected without having to pull up the adjacent good boards. It's not fun, and can be time consuming depending on how flat your floor is and what else is holding down the laminate. After that, you put in as many boards as you can using the interlocking mechanism (you might have to slide some in). Again, probably not fun, and probably takes longer than you want if your floor is good and flat. For the last few (one if you can make it work out), you will probably have to cut off the locking tab, and glue it to the adjacent boards. The last time I did this, I was able to leave the tab on one side which allowed for a good glue surface, but I had to cut the other locking tab off. I put a little glue on the edge anyway. Most squeezed out when I pushed the board down, but I figured if any was left, it was better than nothing. I used regular wood glue. And just to clarify, I'm talking about gluing the wood together, not gluing to the floor .
Now, if this is on a wood subfloor, you might even be able to put a few face nails in that last board. The argument there being the floor can't float and you might end up with buckling in the future depending on the layout.
JPA, you posted your message at the same time I was typing mine up. I have a concrete subfloor, so no worries there. Otherwise, it seems like we have the same idea. Thank you very much for taking the time to post a reply!
