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The Official Marantz SR7005 Receiver Page!! - Page 74
Gear mentioned in this thread:
Except that XT32 has higher resolution than XT (so that part may be worth it), upgrading electronics (receivers/separates) is usually a complete waste of time and money, assuming all the features and power (maximum volume) one needs are already in place. The audible differences are, at best, subtle, whereas the differences between speakers (and just as importantly their placement and one's room acoustics) are gigantic. The former changes the sound by 1-2 dB, or so [from 20-20kHz], the latter by 5-20 dB, [and 1 dB, in the big picture, simply doesn't matter].
The reviews which imply the differences in receivers are "night and day"/profound are simply hearing the differences from the inevitably different microphone placements used during their new Audyssey calibration runs and hence the corrections applied [when they "upgraded" to the new gear], some other change such as speaker placement, toe-in, room design, sitting position, etc., they are imagining things due to expectation bias, or they are lying.
Edited by m. zillch - 7/24/13 at 10:30pm
If your room's acoustics are problematic, and you can't do much to improve them with physical changes, the substantial increase in the number of filters provided by XT32 can make a difference which is both audible and measurable when compared to XT. If you're serious about XT32, don't forget the Denon X4000. It is substantially less expensive than either the AVR4520 or AV8801&s, although it's limited to 9.2 channels of audio, while the latter two can do 11.2.
Still, if at all possible, you should consider the various types of room treatments and speaker placements to improve your listening environment. Then speaker upgrades. The traditional rule of thumb is to spend 2/3 of the budget on speakers and 1/3 on electronics.
Did you overlook my use of the word "except", Selden?
Also, didn't you hear? The experts got together and at the 2013 Steering Committee for Audio, Music, Theater, HiFi, Electronics and Media, in Denver, the participants of this prestigious retailers association voted on (and adopted) the new, ad hoc "75/25 rule of thumb". It's like official and everything.
Edited by m. zillch - 7/26/13 at 3:15pm
A bad HDMI cord is very unlikely to cause the problem, but you'll know for sure by subbing in an alternate one and seeing if the problem recurs.
Your unit it shutting down and going into self protection mode, but "over heating" is just one of the reasons it will do this and these units can tolerate quite a bit of heat. A bad speaker wire (or speaker itself) is more likely to be the problem. A common issue is what's called a "partial short". A common example of one is if just one of the tiny strands of copper wire in a speaker wire connection, [either at the receiver end, somewhere along the wire, at the speaker posts, or internally in the speaker] accidentally touches from the positive to the negative side. The tiny filament can't carry much current, so the bulk of the wire successfully carries the music to the speaker with hardly any distortion, at least until you turn it up or there is a loud crescendo in the music, and then BAM!, it shuts down.
Letting it rest usually will bring it back to life, but the problem will recur.
Have a technician check your wires and speakers for a "partial short".
If your receiver even shuts down when no speakers are connected at all, then there is something seriously wrong and you have to bring it in for service.
P113 of the manual, quoted at the bottom of this post, just gives a rather generic explanation.
Overheating due to putting it in a sealed cabinet or covering the heating vents on the top, say with another component, could also be the issue . You may need to invest in cooling fans if you have it in some sort of a confined space, where it can't breathe.
This is a function to prevent damage to components
within the power supply when an abnormality
such as an overload, excess voltage occurs or
temperature for any reason.
In this unit, the power indicator blinks and the unit
enters standby mode when an abnormality occurs.
Edited by m. zillch - 7/27/13 at 11:29pm
No receiver ever made , at least from name brands like Sony, Denon, and Marantz, etc. has ever decoded HDMI down to component out. There are outboard products, about the size of a paperback book, that do that though [which are in a legal gray area, which is why Sony, et al, wont do it themselves] The HD Fury, no longer sold in the US but available imported from China, is probably the best known one, but Amazon even sells a few, such as ViewHD products.
Upgrading to the newer DTS and Dolby sound systems will probably not be worth it, however the Audyssey room correction calibration system may be a nice thing to get.
On screen display, GUI, works from incoming component video sources converted up to HDMI out, HDMI to HDMI out, and component to component out.
Edited by m. zillch - 8/6/13 at 8:33pm
Yes, a shorted wire [the plus and minus accidentally touching, even just by one strand of thin copper within the wire run, often at the two connection ends, or (on odd occasions) even inside the speaker itself] is a common reason for the unit to shut down and go into "auto protection mode". As long as you are using wire that's at least #18 AWG and using runs under 30 ft. or so, there should be no problem with such thin wire, although there could be a loss of sound quality using that thin of a gauge beyond 10-15 feet. [3-4.5 meters]. I would suggest using thicker #16 AWG wire as a bare minimum, instead. Hardware stores are a good source and sometimes call it "lamp cord" or "zip cord". NEVER buy speaker wire at an audio store. They are filled with snake oil options made to empty your wallet.
Other common reasons for "auto protection" to engage are trying to play speakers too loudly, playing multiple pairs of speakers simultaneously [A + B] , amp overheating, or using low impedance speakers, say under 6 Ohms*. [It's a good receiver which actually can play even a single pair of 4 ohm front speakers, however sometimes such speakers dip down much lower at certain frequencies, so I feel safer telling you not to go below "6 Ohm".]
*[We typically describe speakers by their "nominal impedance", a rough average, but in truth it is a number which varies greatly by frequency.]
Edited by m. zillch - 8/20/13 at 9:15am
Duyhung, the way to test what is wrong is to disconnect everything from your receiver and while listening to it , keep adding connections until it shuts down. If it is amp, and or speaker, and or speaker wire related, then it may only occur at medium to high volumes, so don't do the test at low volumes. Use the internal radio as your source, first, so you need not worry about those HDMI incoming wires.
Do you own headphones? Try listening to the radio tuner with just headphones, all other connections severed on the back (except antenna, so the tuner works).
Does it shut down with just the headphones? No? Ok, try the HDMI device next, with just the headphones. Still good? Then it probably isn't a bad HDMI cord, right? Keep adding speakers, and devices, one by one, and if all goes well when you add a certain device BAM! it shuts down, and this tells you it is THAT device (or the connection wire to it) which is the problem. Does that make sense? Good luck.
Edited by m. zillch - 8/30/13 at 8:35pm
Passive bi-amping has no real world benefits to the end user, is a waste of speaker wire, a waste of amplifiers, a waste of electricity, and promotes an audiophile myth which boosts the profits of unscrupulous dealers willing to promote the myth, in order to double their speaker wire and amp sales.
It is especially a bad idea with this speaker since the jumper strap connection between the inputs is completely invisible to the users, so they have to take it on faith that the connection is either broken or established. That's a dumb idea.
In this instance it is possible that a new user might unwittingly turn the knob over only a very short arc, where it seems to turn quite freely, however what they fail to realize is that the actual connection isn't made/broken unless they turn the knob with an added amount or rotational torque, over a slightly larger arc, which then indeed makes/breaks the invisible to them jumper strap connection. This isn't the user's fault, it is the designer's fault.
The internal processor chip(s) can only deal with 7.1 channels total, at once. You almost always use at least L, C, R, SL, SR, and a sub (".1"), but the 6th and 7th can be any of these following three pairs, but only one pair can be active at a time:
- sur. back L, R
- front heights L, R
- front wides L, R
This applies to using both the pre-outs and speaker terminals, in any combination/configuration.
"Heights" and "Wides" are completely artificial channels that don't exist in the movie soundtracks we buy, nor that we hear in even the most deluxe of movie theaters, because they aren't encoded in any movie; they are synthesized, in some home units, never in theaters. One might ask, "But do they make an improved difference?" Perhaps. That is a judgment call only the user can answer, but keep in mind the original recording engineers never intended them to exist, so whatever alteration they do to the sound field was never signed off on by the original artists who made the movie.
In my humble opinion they are a gimmick.
Edited by m. zillch - 9/1/13 at 10:49pm
Putting aside the capabilities of the SR7005, do you think the front heights would have made a difference in my case?
There's no doubt in my mind that the 6th and 7th channels, [which are the least important to the overall sound], are best put into use mimicking something that really does exist in the commercial movie theaters we are trying to reproduce at home, as faithfully as possible, namely additional rear surround speakers, the principal reason being that it more evenly distributes the two surround channels equally throughout the entire theater, so regardless of where one is sitting, they hear a fairly diffuse sound field for the surround effect, as they should:
When you sit close to a speaker it makes it louder to you, right? Well that's why they don't want to use, say, just a single left surround speaker. People sitting close to it would be overwhelmed by how loud it seemed to them, so instead they divide the sound and reproduce it at much quieter levels, but out of 6 surround speakers, per surround channel, evenly spaced to blanket the entire audience with even sound [see the purple area in the picture above].
I see this as being less important for the small number of viewers in a small living-room, but it is still how I think the 6th and 7th channels should be put to use [If at all. It would depend on how large the room is and where people sit, though].
On a side note, unfortunately I suspect many people new to HT will buy into the "more are always better" mentality, wanting the most number of speakers they possibly can, say 9 or 11 mediocre speakers, rather than 5 top-notch ones for the same budget [the front three of which being markedly more important than the rear two], which would be a much better allocation of funds, if you ask me.
Edited by m. zillch - 9/2/13 at 9:34am
For a review, see http://www.homecinemachoice.com/news/article/exclusive-the-expendables-2--111-neo-x-audio-review/13896
Weird. There is not a single commercial movie in the entire US with heights and wides connected to a decoder to play this, yet they are encoding movie(s) this way, only for the benefit of a very small number of home viewers with the setups to extract and process it? Really? [Maybe they got some "push money" from DTS to say this. ]
I'd also like to see the info that dedicated "heights and wides channels" have been purposefully matrixed into the sound from the horse's mouth. Do you have the blu-ray jacket cover to quote to us? [I'll look for it when I next go shopping, if not.]
Maybe it went down a little like this:
"Hey Bob, did you just hear that noise coming out of the front wides?"
"Play it again Charlie....Yes, I did indeed hear some noise. Quick, write "Officially Optimized for 11.1" on the jacket notes!"
P.S. Thanks for the info though, Selden.
Edited by m. zillch - 9/2/13 at 10:46am
Here's the DTS press release on Business Wire about it. http://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20121105005389/en/%E2%80%98The-Expendables-2%E2%80%99-Blu-ray%E2%84%A2-Title-Feature-DTS