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The Official Marantz SR7005 Receiver Page!! - Page 76

post #2251 of 2387
Fair enough m.zillch.

The upside is that I can move my Rf 82's to the back, and use the Rf7's to the front, and keep the normal 5.1 setup that I am using. (not using the bookshelf speakers anymore)
I will still test the system with front wides, so that I too can provide an opinion about that.

Back to one of my original questions.....I have read that a under powered AVR won't allow you to use the full richness/potential of the Rf7's. (They put it in more words than that of coarse)
Does anyone have Rf7's on their 7005...?

Like previously stated I'm keen to get the Rf7's for use of 2.1 ch usage on music. (I want big sound). I have a 10" Ultra velodyne sub. (She's a beaut)

Sprogk
post #2252 of 2387

Klipsch speakers are very efficient so they are in less need for "more power" than almost any other major speaker vendor out there. There's no need for an outboard amp.

 

 

"One of the expectations of a Klipsch speaker is efficiency and the RF-7 II's don't disappoint. With a rated sensitivity of 101dB @ 2.83V/1m, you could probably drive these speakers with a clock radio." - audioholics

 

 

Whenever you encounter a forum post, an audiophile magazine writer, or an audio dealer which speaks about certain amps having a "good synergy" with a particular speaker in any "tonal" way, it is a clear indicator that they are either delusional or con artists trying to push something. Run away and be suspicious of any other advice they have mentioned previously.


Edited by m. zillch - 10/7/13 at 6:03pm
post #2253 of 2387
This is probably silly question but I need want more power to my 2 front channel. Can I install a emotiva amplifier to my Marants sr7005?
post #2254 of 2387

Yes, there are ports to connect an outboard amp, but I doubt it will do much for you considering you are getting close to the 200 W max that KEF recommends for the Q900 already.

 

Here's what many people don't understand and what amp/receiver makers seem to enjoy keeping people in the dark about: doubling the existing amp's wattage will make a difference, not a big one, just 3 dB, but any increase smaller than that is really a waste of money.

 

"What does a 3 dB volume level increase sound like?" you might ask? Well go to the options menu of your receiver:

 

Menu> Manual Setup> Option Setup> Volume Control> Volume Display> and select "Relative"

 

Now you have a great way of seeing exactly what an increase of 3 dB actually sounds like. Listen at a normal level, maybe in the vicinity of -10 dB to 0 dB, and now crank it up to 3 dB higher than that. Hear the difference? Louder, yes, but not by a huge amount, right? THAT'S how much louder an amp with double the SR7005's 125 Watt amp/ch can play before it clips (distorts), meaning a 250 W/ch amp, which is already beyond what KEF advises. [Although you could probably squeak by using one.]

 

Is that really worth all those hundreds/thousands of dollars you were thinking of spending? Your call. If you really need "louder" you need different, more efficient speakers, or a smaller room

 

As for the advice friends and dealers might be filling you with, notions of, "Oh no, its not just the added volume capability at your disposal, you'll get better sound even at the same volume and cleaner more dynamic, visceral impact with each beat of the music! Bass you can feel.", they're full of crap. That's a decades old audio myth.


Edited by m. zillch - 10/10/13 at 11:30pm
post #2255 of 2387
m. zillch
Last time I post was about bi-amp my receiver for my front channel, and I learn from you and couple other member about bi-amp, thank everybody for the information, since it wasn't a big increase in power I don't bi-amp my front speaker anymore,
a week ago I play my favorite CD RUSH Moving picture, within around 10 to 15 minutes at 75% volume it shut down, but I notice this time the receiver stay on, I was running it in stereo mode so only front speaker play, I switch to multiple channel stereo and the center and rear still work, then I plug the front channel speaker into the rear slot and it work ( and it sound normal), I have this system for about a year and before this problem the Marantz always go on safe mode when I play at around 80% of volume for around 15 minutes, the Marantz been repair twice and they test it and it was fix, they think the problem is from the other end of the receiver, but when I run it right after I receive it , it does it right away, I had the speaker wire change and ran it directly without bi-amp hoping that would solve the problem but nope, any information from anybody would be very appreciated
post #2256 of 2387

Since it can play acceptably loud at first, but only shuts down over time ["10-15 minutes"], I suspect internal heat build up is the problem. Follow this advice from the manual:

 

CAUTIONS ON INSTALLATION

 

-proper heat dispersal, do not install this unit in a confined

space, such as a bookcase or similar enclosure.

• More than 0.3 m (12 in.) [clearance] is recommended. [Simultaneously to the sides, to the shelf above, and to the rear wall. See the diagram in the beginning of the actual manual. - m. zillch]

• Do not place any other equipment on this unit.

 

As a test you could temporarily pull the receiver out of your rack/stand and place it by itself on a small, improvised stand, like for instance a step ladder or chair (no not block the intake vents on the bottom by placing it on a cushioned piece of furniture, however.) See if that cures it.

 

If you can't adhere to this you might try installing additional cooling fans.

 

Passive bi-amping is worthless, however active bi-amping, [meaning by use of an electronic crossover], can truly help increase output power. Using a powered subwoofer in conjunction with the bass management system called "LFE" [not "LFE + Main"!] would be a common way to do this, and I recommend it. The main speakers and power amps play more loudly this way because they are no longer being burdened by playing the most difficult past, the low bass; that difficult, power hungry part is then taken over by the powered subwoofer.

 

I also advise against simultaneously attempting to power more than one set of front speakers [speakers "A" plus "B"] and only use 8 Ohm speakers, maybe 6, but stay away from any that are called 4 ohm.


Edited by m. zillch - 10/13/13 at 1:16pm
post #2257 of 2387
the marantz is wide open on top of the entertainment center at 18ft opening on top and the side is from 20ft to 40ft opening that's more open air then most people have
post #2258 of 2387
Quote:
that's more open air then most people have

 

Most people don't own Q900s. In addition to top and side clearance, you need a foot or more to the rear, don't forget.

 

I'm not sure the Q900 is a good match for your volume needs for several reasons. Most people are usually married to their speakers however, for whatever reason, and wont even consider changing them, but instead are confidant they can get the improvement they seek  through a different, more powerful receiver, or adding more powerful outboard amps to the existing one. That's a shame. While there is some, slight validity to that approach, it is overall the wrong one in most situations.

 

There's no amount of money in the world you could spend to buy an outboard amp which plays 10 dB more loudly than what you already have, without shutting down, yet still adheres to the KEF's power handling limits, whereas speakers that are about 10 dB more efficient aren't that different in price from the MSRP of the Q900s.

 

Are you already using a good, large sub with them and using the LFE  mode, not LFE + Main?

Are you listening in a large/dead room or at a greater than average distance?

Are you using them by themselves when the receiver shuts down or is the receiver strenuously attempting  to drive other speakers in some surround mode, not stereo?

 

The KEFs are actually 90 dB/1W/1m efficient, not 91 dB, according to Stereophile, and they dip down way below 8 ohms at some frequencies with 42 degrees of phase shift at 80 Hz, so calling them "8 ohm" is a tad optimistic.

 

"The speaker's impedance is specified as 8 ohms, but as fig.1 shows, the impedance drops to 4 ohms in the top octaves and to below 4 ohms in the lower midrange, reaching a minimum value of 3.17 ohms at 160Hz."

 

If that Rush album has strong, sustained energy around 160 Hz [not uncommon with rock music], that hard to do 3.17 ohms impedance could be exactly what's shutting you down.

 

[The following graph is borrowed from another thread but comes from the same Stereophile article I linked to.]:

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by arnyk View Post
 


Edited by m. zillch - 10/25/13 at 8:27pm
post #2259 of 2387

Hi folks, This is my first post and am a newbie, but have been lurking for a while. I have a question about my year old sr7005. When switched off (standby), my unit still feels quite warm on top. I've got good ventilation and have never had a thermal problem, but was wondering if this is normal. I've recently started powering off my Monster Power HTS2500, cutting all power to the unit, thinking this would be beneficial, but was looking for any insight from you veterans.

 

I'm not sure if this is where I should have posted, or if I should have started a new thread.

 

Thanks!

 

George

post #2260 of 2387

A small amount of heat is normal. When you engage the "HDMI passthrough works" circuit [I forget what their term for that is], for example, the video boards have to stay powered on so that circuit will work [even if you aren't actively watching the video signal at any given moment].

 

This will give you an idea about how much power is used, although my data is from the newer SR7007, so we can't be dead sure it is identical for this receiver:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

P.S. the newer SR7007 claims:

"Power consumption: 670 W
0. 2 W (Standby mode)
0.5 W (CEC standby mode)
2.7W (network standby mode)"

So it seems the low level circuits that have nothing to do with the main power amp section run at very low, energy/Earth friendly levels. Assuming the SR7005 is the same, feel free to leave them on.

 


Edited by m. zillch - 10/17/13 at 5:59pm
post #2261 of 2387

Thanks much for the quick response. I was concerned I may have an issue. I'll have to check the huge manual and try to figure out how to shut off the pass-thru mode, if possible.

 

On another note, I've enjoyed the forum and used it to research purchases for my home theater set up. I'm running the SR7005 receiver set up 7.1, Epson 8350 projector to a 135" screen. Speakers are my older Definitive Technology floorstanding towers and center channel, and Power Sound Audios XS15 sub. Sony's BDP-S790 Blu-ray player, and of course xbox and wii. The sound and video are excellent and have enjoyed many hour with the family, that otherwise would never have occurred. I used a couple of vendors that were recommended here also; Accessories4less for the Marantz and VisualApex for the Epson. THANKS FORUM!!:)

post #2262 of 2387
Setting "HDMI Control" to OFF on the AVR will disable the HDMI Standby Pass Through feature.
post #2263 of 2387
I've done a quick search and can't seam to find what I'm looking for definitively. I think the answer is no, but I'll try.

I have an SR7005 in an equipment closet in another room separate from the theater room. I have a computer monitor that I'm no longer using, a 21" HP flat panel, it has a standard VGA input and a DVI input. Is it possible to mirror to the computer monitor what is playing on the projector? Projector is fed using HDMI...
post #2264 of 2387

Only one HDMI on the SR7005 works at a time. There are aftermarket devices which will take one HDMI in and give you two simultaneous outs, but they usually have to have the same output specs (resolution, refresh rate, etc) and can sometimes have issues when feeding two dissimilar monitors. Check with the vendor.

post #2265 of 2387
I know there's a few receiver that is 4 ohms, can you change the 8ohms to 4 ohms on the marantz sr7005
post #2266 of 2387
No.
post #2267 of 2387
What is voltage for preamp on marantz sr7005
post #2268 of 2387

Audioholics measured the previous series [and "lesser"] Marantz SR6004 receiver's preamp outs as:

"With 0dBFS in, the SR6004 was able to output a whopping 7Vrms unclipped (<.1%THD +N)."

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the stereo preamp sections of these two receivers is nearly exactly the same, but I have never seen any published, third-party measurements of the SR7005's preouts, under the same conditions, to be 100% sure.

 

Still pursuing the outboard amp "upgrade", I see. That's a shame, but I can see how the overwhelming deluge of anecdotal testimonies that "it's worth it/ makes a night and day difference" will trump any amount of science I throw at you, even though I can pretty much back everything I say with an external link, and they can't. Oh well, I tried.

 

At best you are going to be able to increase your total stereo output level by a scant +3dB or so, by using your current speakers in your current room, by way of a stronger, double the wattage, outboard amp [if the Q900s can even take it when cranked] on the L+R preouts. If that's really worth all the hundreds/thousands of dollars it takes for such a small incremental change, you must have very different priorities than me. If on the other hand, you are being fed a line, "Oh no, it's not just the added volume capability; more powerful amps simply sound better even while both amps are playing at the same, undistorted volumes", that's a very old audio myth and complete B.S., with no evidence to back it up, but it's your money.


Edited by m. zillch - 10/25/13 at 9:38am
post #2269 of 2387
m. zillch, I'm happy how loud it get, I'm not really looking to increase it by 3db or even 1db, but I want to play it continuous at a length of time, not 10 to 20 minutes and then go on safe mode.
post #2270 of 2387

Cooling fans cost ten dollars or so. Some can be triggered automatically by the 12V port, "DC out", on the back of the receiver so you need not even worry about forgetting to turn them on or off.

 

If that still doesn't do it for you then you have to accept that these speakers aren't a good match for you, in your room, with your setup, at the volumes you want, as I mentioned in post #2258.

 

On pg 51 of the manual it talks about using the trigger outs which may need to be configured in the menu system. They provide 12V DC, 150 mA. If this isn't enough to direvctly drive the fan(s) you buy, you'll also need to get a 12V relay ( common in car parts stores like AutoZone, if you have those where you are) and a 12V power supply ["wall wart" transformer].


Edited by m. zillch - 10/26/13 at 6:41am
post #2271 of 2387
Need some opinions on mounting some monitor audio bipolar speakers that will match my fronts. Tried to get some views on this subject in the audio setup forum with no luck. I currently have in walls behind the listening as shown in the pic below. I also included pic of the front setup as well in case it's needed. I currently have the in walls 6ft high and about 2ft from the side walls. Question is whether I should move the Bipolars further away from the side walls? Thanks.



post #2272 of 2387
Hello all,

I have a SR7005 and want to use the Air Play feature with it. My question is (and I apologyze if this is a stupid question): How do I set it up?
And first of all, how do I connect the receiver to the internet? does it has WI-FI? or must I use an ethernet cable?
Once it is connected to the internet, I´ve read in the manual I need to download the air play feature, and then what?
Many thanks for your feedback.
Marco
post #2273 of 2387
Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho Marco View Post

Hello all,

I have a SR7005 and want to use the Air Play feature with it. My question is (and I apologyze if this is a stupid question): How do I set it up?
And first of all, how do I connect the receiver to the internet? does it has WI-FI? or must I use an ethernet cable?
Once it is connected to the internet, I´ve read in the manual I need to download the air play feature, and then what?
Many thanks for your feedback.
Marco

Hi Marco, I have a Denon AVR X4000 but airplay should be much the same for your Marantz.

No wireless, so you need to use a cable. It may just plug and play or you may need to configure your network to see it. Once installed it will have access to the internet and you may need to upgrade the firmware - see here http://us.marantz.com/us/Airplay/index.html

Once upgraded, it will just appear as a multiple speaker option in iTunes.
Edited by fisher191 - 10/28/13 at 4:33pm
post #2274 of 2387
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisher191 View Post

Hi Marco, I have a Denon AVR X4000 but airplay should be much the same for your Marantz.

No wireless, so you need to use a cable. It may just plug and play or you may need to configure your network to see it. Once installed it will have access to the internet and you may need to upgrade the firmware - see here http://us.marantz.com/us/Airplay/index.html

Once upgraded, it will just appear as a multiple speaker option in iTunes.

Thank you very much!
I had high hopes that it was wi-fi capable frown.gif
I´ll let you know my progress tomorrow!
Marco
post #2275 of 2387
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisher191 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho Marco View Post

Hello all,

I have a SR7005 and want to use the Air Play feature with it. My question is (and I apologyze if this is a stupid question): How do I set it up?
And first of all, how do I connect the receiver to the internet? does it has WI-FI? or must I use an ethernet cable?
Once it is connected to the internet, I´ve read in the manual I need to download the air play feature, and then what?
Many thanks for your feedback.
Marco

Hi Marco, I have a Denon AVR X4000 but airplay should be much the same for your Marantz.

No wireless, so you need to use a cable. It may just plug and play or you may need to configure your network to see it. Once installed it will have access to the internet and you may need to upgrade the firmware - see here http://us.marantz.com/us/Airplay/index.html

Once upgraded, it will just appear as a multiple speaker option in iTunes.

I was just wondering the same thing myself; thanks for sharing the link, fisher191.
post #2276 of 2387

Adding a product called a wireless bridge (~ $50-$100) can make the Marantz effectively WiFi ready. I've never used one but searching this thread will find examples of ones that people report successfully using.

post #2277 of 2387
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Adding a product called a wireless bridge (~ $50-$100) can make the Marantz effectively WiFi ready. I've never used one but searching this thread will find examples of ones that people report successfully using.

Good point. I used to use an Airport Express on my old AVR which worked well. jdsmoothie listed the following on the Denon E/X series thread:

Router
Cisco WRT-100
Cisco E3200
Linksys BEFSX41
Netgear N600 3400v2
Netgear WNDR-3800
Netgear WNDR4500
Airport Extreme

Bridge (connected to AVR provides wireless connection to the home's wifi router)
Cisco WRT-54G
TRENDnet TEW-640MB
Airport Extreme
Airport Express
Linksys WET610N
Netgear WN2000RPT - 4 port
Netgear WN2500RP
D-Link DAP-1522
post #2278 of 2387
Can anyone recommend a Service Center in CA (or near the West Coast, I have to ship from Hawaii)? Does Marantz provide a shipping label?

I think my SR7005 just crapped out. There is no output from the HDMI outs. mad.gif I've reset the processor, tried different cables, and different inputs on the TV. No matter what, there is no output. The TV just says no signal. The TV inputs work, I checked them all with other sources.

Funny, 'cause all inputs (that I've checked) seem to be working.

Thanks! cool.gif
post #2279 of 2387
Hi 7005 owners. I just bought a used 7005 to replace my aging denon with no hdmi support. This particular unit doesn't have the remote though. I saw in this thread that the harmony works well (which I already have) but should I go ahead and order the Marantz remote for setup purposes and such? If so has anyone tried a remote other than the marantz RC011SR which I believe is the original. There are alot of other Marantz remotes to be had for cheap on another auction site.

Shane
post #2280 of 2387
Hey guys. Buddy of mine just got this unit and is having problems getting any network connection at all through the hard wired cat 5.
We've tried everything, different cables, direct modem connection to bypass the router and still nothing. We are thinking he got a unit with a faulty network card.
Is there any thing else we can try? A system reset perhaps?
Thanks for any help guys!
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