Official Fujifilm 3D W3 Photo/Video Camera - Page 5

Since I don't own the camera yet, I can only go by what the guy said on the video. Most of the other Video reviews are from Fuji employees. You would think for nearly $500 Fuji would have given more than 32mb of memory and maybe a Mini HDMI adapter.

"Since I don't own the camera yet, I can only go by what the guy said on the video. Most of the other Video reviews are from Fuji employees. You would think for nearly $500 Fuji would have given more than 32mb of memory and maybe a Mini HDMI adapter."

Yes, most of the video "reviews" are ads, and they do not hide that fact.

But there are many print independent reviews from standard sources specializing in reviewing cameras (most reviews are not on video), and none mention this as a problem. Do you only look at video reviews? Is this some kind of new age thing?

The only cameras I know of, of all video and still cameras, that includes an hdmi cable are the Kodak Zi8 and Aiptek 3D, but they are primarily video cameras. Do you know of any still cameras that come with a lot more than 32mb's of memory? How about a camera case while they are at it and a lens cleaner (there is a free lanyard).

For the $449 street price you essentially get two cameras - there are two lenses and two sensors (that's $225 per camera). You also get an incredible high pixel-density screen that is lenticular 3D.

I am not a Fuji employee. I can make a video with me saying this if that will give you more confidence...

I am not looking for 2 cameras. I already have a very nice Image stabilized Canon. I have two Samsung 3D LED TV's (one the 65" LED C8000). I am looking for a 3D camera that works. Since it's really the only choice available now, I did do some research and reviews both print and video reviews. Most reviews are puff pieces offering glowing reviews with little facts. That Video was one of the only I could find with a comment on how the automatic Partallax works. As for 3D cameras, I suspect by the middle of next year we will see more start to arrive. Maybe one where you can just plug your USB drive into the TV to view pictures.

If you have links to more compete reviews discussing auto parallax, picture sizes, battery life, etc., I would love to read them.

You do know for 3D you need two lenses and two sensors if you want full resolution for each eye, right? For example, the very expensive Panasonic 3D camcorder just splits the video in two on one sensor (or it's three sensors, but divided up), so it gives half resolution.

Nothing wrong with being careful. I have posted examples from the camera, I have told you that auto parallax works well, and I can tell you that if you do not take videos battery life is more less like a regular camera, notwithstanding that there are two shutters (you understand why, right?) and two sensors and one of the largest brightest screens of any camera. We as actual users of the camera can answer your questions. That is the point of the forum.

Google 'Fuji 3D W3 reviews' and read. If you find anyone else than this video clown saying that autoparallax is a problem, let us know. The review I quoted and cited said it was not, for example. This guy did not provide details: for example, given the fixed inter-lens distance, there is only a fixed distance that 3D effects are optimal (from 5-9 feet or so). Maybe this guy tried taking macros (which you can do, they just won't give 3D good results without an adaptor).

The Fuji 3D works well - look at the posted examples. Given you have 3D TV's, it is just great to leverage that investment by taking your own 3D videos and photos for an extra $449. Everyone bascially raves about the camera (I have plenty of other cameras, so in that sense I am not invested in this one)

Finally, experienced pros who have been doing 3D for years with two-rig setups have bought the camera and like it. Go here:

http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/

Read the posts, and ask these pros who make a living from 3D about the camera.

"Maybe one where you can just plug your USB drive into the TV to view pictures."

You take an HDMI cable and plug the Fuji W3 into to your TV and you see your pictures in 3D. You know that right? What exactly doesn't the Fuji do that you need?

Thanks for your info. I bought one on-line today. One more question. If you copy the photos and videos and archive them on your computer, can you copy them back to an SD card, put it back in your camera, and then view them on the TV again?

Great! I think you will like the camera. I have not tried to take off and put back on stills and videos. But the manual says that as long as these are not edited in any way, this is no problem, assuming you keep the same folder structure and use a card formatted in the camera. Btw, it is critical to use type 6 or 10 sd cards if you do video.

A poster has figured out how to convert Bluray movies to the format the Fuji uses so he can watch them on the 3D screen of the camera - the screen is that good, and he has succeeded.

See

http://3dvision-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=635

for info on converting 3D movies to play on the great Fuji 3D camera screen.

I've just recently purchased a 3DTV and am interested in creating my own video content. I am trying to decide which camera/camcorder I want to purchase and am having a hard time deciding. I am looking at the Aiptek, Viewsonic, and the Fuji. I am not too concerned about the price for these cameras, especially the Aiptek and Viewsonic, however I am concerned about the video quality.

I understand that this Fuji is primarily a still camera, and thats what worries me about the video performance. I have watched a few samples of test footage via youtube for each camera except the Viewsonic (too new) and still cannot decide.

For those of you that own the Fuji my questions are these; Do you use it often for video? Are there any frame-rate issues? How is low light performance? How large are the 11 minute videos? How is the playback on a 3DTV, are there any stuttering issues or sound sync issues? How is the audio recording?

I appreciate your insight and hope that I can come to a decision before Christmas. I really want to get my daughters first Christmas that she will remember (she's 22 months) captured in 3d!

Thanks,
Jeff

I went with the Fuji primarily because the lens separation is wider and allows for the 3D effect to be apparent over a greater distance. Even though you did not mention the Panasonic, that is my main criticism of it too along with reviews that I have read criticizing its effectiveness in moderate and low light situations. (If you live in Buffalo that pretty much relegates catching your 22 month old when she can get outside under the summer sun.)

I just got mine yesterday and am still reading the manual. The manual seems a bit lacking in detailed explanations. In my opinion they never fully explain manual Parallax adjustments (- or +).

As for video size for 3D, I have an 8 GB SD card and you get a little over 11 minutes of 3D HD video.

The key to using the Fuji is to half press the shutter before shooting. That will engage the focus of course, but more importantly the auto parallax. You can see the 3D effect clearly. If there is ghosting or other issues, you can then play with the manual parallax to get it to look the way you want. I have never had to do this. Autoparallax works really well. Of course you can just point and shoot too, and autoparallax will work. The half press gives you a chance to see what the picture will look like.

Thanks for the insight, and it's not that bad in Buffalo!

I have never had to do manual parallax adjustment.

I couldn't help myself as I am an admitted 3Daholic but I bought one and will receive it Friday.
I still have the W1 that I bought back in April plus the panasonc 3D camcorder plus my home build remote controlled unit not counting the beam splitter unit I'm designing now.
It was just too tempting...

I am having some issues with copying photos from the W3 to my computer and then back again on to the SD card in the camera. I can copy them to the computer just fine. But getting them back to the camera using the included USB cable is a problem.

I can copy them on the computer, but the "paste" function is grayed out when I try to copy them back to the SD card. I put the SD card in the media slot on my computer and it copies fine. It's just using the USB cable that things do not work.

The 3D photos look great on the camera. But when displayed on my Samsung LED UN46C8000, there is severe ghosting. Can anyone with a Samsung 3D TV confirm they get good, clear, 3D images on their TV. I basically have everything on the camera set to Auto.

You need to check whether you also get ghosting from 3D blurays - turns out, ghosting with LED TV's is an issue. It is not an issue of the camera. Note that the person reporting great 3D pictures on his HDTV is using a plasma TV, which has less problems in general with 3D than do LED's.

You might also check the settings on your TV - ghosting is your TV's problem. Changing contrast or brightness can effect ghosting. See all the threads on 3D TV's about this issue.

I just got my W3 today and after waiting seemingly forever for the battery to charge, I did get a chance to test it a little bit.
I shot a short 3D video and viewed it on my Panasonic Vt-20 using the HDMI port connection to the TV.
I was shocked at how bad it looked and how much crosstalk there was especially since it looked pretty good on the cameras screen. I tried all the various video settings on the Panasonic and nothing helped very much.
I then connected the SD card to a computer and viewed the video using Stereoscopic Player on my Samsung Un40C7000 with it in checkerboard mode and the results were much better.
Not sure what to make of this result yet.
I'll have a lot of time to play with it this weekend.

I get almost zero ghosting with both of my LED TV's when watching 3d Blu Rays and on demand 3d Video. Most ghosting with on demand 3d programs is when an object is very, very close to the screen. With the W3, I get severe ghosting on the TV's no matter what camera settings I use or what distance I photograph. If you look at an image on the TV made with the W3, without using the 3D glasses, the offset in the image seems excessive compared to the image for a 3D movie.

Make sure you are not hitting the parrallax button on the top of the W-3 that will cause ghosting. I have been shooting things with the W-3 for months now and displaying them on a Panny VT25 Plasma. Stills are always awesome and I got a grappler tripod for videos, this helped a lot. You may thing you are holding the camera still, but as they say, you takes your chances, you pay to win.....okay, I can't remember what they say.

But the important thing is that as you play with the W-3 you will learn to shoot better and better 3D, it isn't the same as 2D, not by a long shot.

3D photography is more challenging - more dimensions, more issues.

It would be really helpful if people posted their .mpo's somewhere that are the basis for their complaints so we can see where the problems lie.

I have noticed that shots outdoors in natural light are better than indoor shots with the flash. Virtually any shots taken indoors at 5 to 6 feet have a lot of ghosting. For me, most longer distant shots (10' to 20') seem to work the best. But shots of people from 5 to 7 feet are pretty bad. I have tested many settings too.

One disappointing thing is the manual Parallax adjustments. And cropping too. If you make manual adjustment to 3D photos, they are no longer shown in 3D if you try to view them on a 3d TV.

I will keep working on adjustments to see what's best for me. The camera should be able to take close shots of people without them appearing to have an extra nose or pair of lips when shown on a TV.

Meanwhile, here is a 3D video shot in bright and in very dim light, with actual sound (no silly music soundtrack added (there is music though)).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZUaCsnXs-s&hd=1

The Youtube 3D service is a great vehicle for sharing 3D videos.

I use Roxio Creator 11 to combine 3D clips from the Fuji W3. I save the combined clips in Real3D format (using 720p, 24fps same as the W3 shoots). This format can be used on 3D HDTV's.

Then I just upload the file as is to Youtube. You need to add as tags the following:

yt3d:enable=true yt3d:aspect=16:9 yt3d:swap=true

Then Youtube allows viewers to choose how they want to view the 3D video - from anaglyph full color to shutter-glasses etc.

After another day of tests and adjustments, I still cannot get my Samsung TV's to display clear 3D photos all the time. Faces are especially bad. I sent a 3D mpo photo to Fuji tech support and they said the photo looked very good on their LG test TV.

I am beginning to think it's the Samsung's that are not compatible with mpo's. However, one time yesterday, suddenly, all the photos appeared on the TV crisp and clear. Faces included. Than an hour later, back to ghosting and blurry faces. I am connecting to the TV with a High Speed HDMI cable that came bundled with the camera. Anyone with a Samsung getting crisp, clear photos? If I cannot get consistently clear photos on my TV, I may have to return the W3.