Official Fujifilm 3D W3 Photo/Video Camera - Page 10

My son has an LG 55" 3D TV. I found that his TV also will read MPO files right off a USB drive. Ty putting your MPO files right on a USB drive and plug it in to the TV. He gets very good results. Take the photos with the camera in full auto mode and don't change the parallax or settings.

To FBlack: Thanks for your reply. Yes the TV reads mpo files fine from a USB drive and they are shown in 3D in the same way as if camera is connected via mini HDMI to the TV (HDMI alternative also gives the possibility to view .avi files). The problem is, still, that the auto parallax adjustment done by the camera (no manual changes done what so ever), e.g -5 is shown as parallax 0 at the TV. I dont know how to see the value shown on TV but I can compare TV image with camera for parallax set manually to 0 - they look the same (pain for your eyes). The effect is of course only seen for large parallax adjustment values, when object is close to the camera (perhaps far away as well but have not seen that). For most of the pictures it is no porblem at all. I will try some more to understand and perhaps solve the problem but otherwise I still have the possibility to save them over again in SPM.

I still need to save the image over again in the SPM program to be able to view a parallax adjusted 3D image on the LG TV. If you go via HDMI or USB the image will be a 3D image without adjusted parallax (good in most cases but not optimum, especially for macro shots). I have put an example macro image here where A_Cam is the original file from the camera where parallax where adjusted automatically when I shot the image and B_SPM is a copy saved as mpo in SPM, (n.b. no adjustments was done when creating B in SPM, only "open A_Cam-Save as mpo"!):

The url will be in my next post due to spam filter...

When viewing A_Cam on my LG TV the parallax adjustment is gone (=bad) and B_SPM includes the adjustment (=good).

The direct difference that I can see immediately is that B_SPM is much smaller in bytes and that it uses lower case letters for .mpo.

My new 3D Samsung D8000 TV and 3D LG5600 TV both will play 3D mpo files off of a USB drive directly without connecting the W3 Camera to the TV. I can even stream mpo files from a laptop to the TV and see excellent 3D mpo photos. But 3D video taken from the W3 can only be viewed by connecting the camera to the TV. These appear to be some sort of avi file.

Does anyone know how or if you can convert those 3D W3 videos to some other format so they can be viewed on a 3D TV using a USB drive or card reader instead of through the camera?

Same here. I have tried several conversions but my PlayOn HDMini refusus to play the 3D video. I know that it can play several 3d formats (avi,sbs) because it plays trailers in this formats without any problem.

Have you tried the software that comes with the camera? I have the same equipment as you but only went as far as just buying the cable so I could at least watch it.

I do have the cable and can watch the 3D movies by connecting the camera to an HDMI input. I just thought since my LG TV and 2011 Samsung TV can read and show mpo 3D files from my USB drive, it would be nice to show 3d Videos from the W3 via the USB drive as well. The W3 records the 3d Video as some sort of avi file. I was looking for some way to convert the 3D avi to another format with some conversion program and preserve the 3D and use the USB drive.

FBlack: I agree with you, it should be possible. Stream via Youtube works in 3D from a w3 camera-file

I had some success converting a W3 3D movie but I am not sure if I successfully converted the actual W3 video, or somehow used the software to artificially convert the video to 3D. Maybe someone can try this too and give me some input. Here's what I did.

1. Open the program "StereoMovie Maker". It's free on the Internet. I used version 1.20
2. Click "File" and "Open Stereo Movie"; then open a W3 video you recorded
3.It should open in a window with a Left image, Right Image and a Composition Image
4. Click "File" and "Save Stereo Movie"; then choose a name and location to save it.
5. Under "Stereo Format" check side-by-side.
6. Click "Resize" and make "X" 720 and make "Y" 480. Or change the resize to what ever works in your TV.
7. Click "Save" and change "Compressor" to "FFShow Video Codec".
8. Click OK and let it run. Once it is done, transfer it to a USB drive and test as a side by side on a 3D TV.

This seems to work for me.

FBlack: I tried your method with no success. I had to install FFDShow (I guess you missed a "D", right?!) though, to be able to choose that in the list. What configuration do you use for Encoder and Decoder (under configuration in the window where you choose compression). I used SMM version 1.21

I am having trouble getting 3D over the HDMI to mini HDMI cable from my Fuji W3. I am sure that I had this working before and was able to view directly from the camera on the TV so that I could do some editing before I dumped everything into the computer. The advantage of this is then you can see the 3D images, unlike on my computer monitor. I do have PlayMemories installed on my PS3, but that has limited editing, and I'd still have to dump everything into the computer first, then onto a flash drive... I am plugging the Fuji directly into a Mits converter box and from there the signal goes to my Samsung DLP. The Mits box isn't registering a 3D input signal and so I am only getting 2D from the camera. 3D blu-rays and PS3 3D games are working fine. The cable is rated high speed. I've spent quite a bit of time looking through the Fuji menu - I hadn't changed anything - especially the 3D output format over HDMI. No luck. Ideas anyone?

Not sure if this actually applies to your situation and TV, but with my Panasonic 3D TV when I remove the SD card from the camera and plug it into the SD slot on the TV there will be two sets of photos with the first being in 2D. I have to scroll through all the 2D views to begin viewing the 3D views of the same photos.

- Have you changed the parallax manually on the camera? If this is changed and saved the image will be viewed as a 2D image on the TV. Otherwise perhaps some settings on the TV?

Hey all. I just bought the W3, because I was tired of lugging my very heavy custom rig of Dual Nikon D700s around.

I am finding that the resulting photos have a rotational disparity in them, in addition to a horizontal offset. I see that the firmware allows you to adjust the vertical offset. But why should there by rotational disparity (and with no way to fix it)? Have others found this?

Also, is it just me, or is the photo quality bordering on unacceptable? I've only taken photos indoors, and maybe the extra light from outdoors help. But my indoor shots (with lots of bright lights illuminating the room and trying with flash off and on and every scene preset as well as auto) are just abysmal. At 100% the photo is tremendously soft and would never hold up to any standards that required printing or viewing the photo enlarged.

thanks,
jack

I have not seen any rotational disparity, can it be some error on your specific camera hardware perhaps?

I want to report my findings regarding the parallax trouble that I mentioned in my post 15th of August and onwards. Perhaps, there are more people having the same problem.
Problem
The automatic parallax adjustment done by the w3 camera is interpreted as zero adjustments by my LG 47LW550W TV.
Effect
The effect will be hardly noticeable if the adjustment is small, but your eye muscles need to work more to get the depth view, and hence you get tired in your eye muscles. For larger adjustments (like macro shots), it is clearly visible and is really painful for the eyes. The problem for the eyes and brain is to merge right and left image together because they are too far away apart from each other on the screen.
Action
I have been in contact with LG support and sent them an example. They were enthusiastic about to solve the problem and said that they will investigate it and contact me. Two months have now passed, and I have not heard anything from them yet.
Work around
Do a Multi Conversion with the freeware StereoPhotoMaker. Browse and select all your .mpo-images that you want to prepare for TV viewing, select an output folder for the adjusted images and press Convert Selected Files. The process is then done automatically. Just make sure that the output file type is .MPO (and I use input type as Interlaced, but I am not sure that matters). The files are then ready to view on your 3DTV! For images where the auto adjustment by the w3 camera was not successful, for some reason, it is easy to adjust that in the freeware. Just open, adjust and save.
As far as I understand the parallax value is set to zero in the saving process with the freeware. The misinterpretation has then no effect. These are my findings so far. Please free to add, revise or comment them if you want.

I finally figured out why I wasn't getting 3D on my display from the Fuji W3, or any other source for that matter. I have one of the Samsung DLP 3D TV's, and use the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 to convert the 3D signal to checkerboard. Apparently, a power outage can reset the Mits box to its default mode (which is for a Mitsubishi 3D DLP). For any of you that may find yourselves with the same problem, here is a repost on how to reset the box so that it will recognize your Samsung, from the tru3d faq page:

If your 3DTV Adapter has stopped going into 3D mode, if you have a black screen with all devices turned on, you may need to reset your 3DTV Adapter. Depending upon the model and version of your 3DTV, your adapter may have one or two operational modes.

To Reset the Samsung 3DTV Adapter and place it in unlocked mode, do the following:
1) Leave power to all devices connected.
2) Turn off the Mitsubishi 3D Adapter
3) Press and hold down the 3D Mode Button.
4) While holding the 3D Mode button, press and hold the Power button.
5) Continue to hold both buttons down for about 15-20 seconds.
6) Watch and wait for the 3D Status light to blink, it will blink 1x or 2x.
7) Release Power button, then release 3D Mode Button.
8) If the 3D Status light blinked 1x, then you are done you may power on the 3D Adapter.
9) If the 3D Status light blinked 2x, then you need to repeat steps 2-7.

If you receive a error message on your Samsung 3D DLP stating that the the 3D adapter is not compatible with your TV, then use the reset process above.

I just bought this camera and whenever I try to record video in 3d after 15 seconds or so it will say writing to card on the screen and then will give an error a few seconds after that.

Im using a 16 gb class 2 micro sd card in a adapter. I tried formatting it in the camera with no luck. It will record 2d video with no trouble.

Think its the class 2 card? Not sure if the fact its a micro sd has anything to do with it

Yeah it's the class 2 that's causing the problems - too slow of a write speed. I'd aim for class 6 or above to avoid your videos being cut off. Remember not all SD cards are created equally, even the class system I would use as a guide only. I believe micro SD's are generally slower than their full sized, same class counterparts. Remember the W3 is effectively trying to write 2 x 720p video streams at once, one for each eye.

I just stuck a 4 gb class 4 I found lying around and did a test 4 minute movie with no trouble, so Ill just get a new card.

Trying to figure out best way now to get videos to play on ps3/TV
Found the stereo movie maker but first try still gave me a corrupted file on ps3 and unsupported file type through tv.

Fiddled around with it for a while and finally got a file to work on my ps3 in side by side 3d. But of course I forget what settings I had. Was well worth the 3 hours I spent to watch a 20 second 3d clip of my kitchen.

How do you guys put your 3d movies onto a blu-ray blank disc disc? I bought it to record family stuff and burn onto a blu-ray but I need to figure out a good way to get the video files prepared

Bobby- PS3 will not play MVC 3D from SD card or thumb drive. Must be burned to a disk. SBS 3D is just like 2D file so you make that play in 3D by telling the monitor to interpret it as SBS 3D.
To burn 3D video clips you shoot to a BD-R, there are three editing software apps you can choose.
1. Power Director 10 Ultra about $99 is my first recommendation
2. Vegas Platinum HD v11 same price but doesn't do as well for bluRay 3D
3.Vegas Pro V11 Expensive but best editor for professionals. Recommend using this with PD10 to make the disks and with my published work flow.

THanks I downloaded the 30 day trail of powerdirector 10 and was able to put a couple of the 3d movies onto a dvd in side by side and it played fine on my ps3.

So ordered the full version of it to get rest of program fully working.

Thank you

$258 right now at amazon. i pulled the trigger. it should arrive today, woohoo!

here's my set up. it's connected to a generic led light rig and a hague mini motion cam stabilizer (like the merlin but at a fraction of the price). the added weight of the flash unit helped me get the correct balance very easily. once set up, the stabilizer works like a charm.

overall, it's a fantastic 3D picture camera. seeing them on your large screen 3DTV is just stunning. the pictures have this ever so slight movement to them when you move your head; it creates an even deeper 3D image. as for video, it's decent but understand that you'll get the best results when filming outdoors in well light situations.

in the future, i'd like to see this camera updated with larger sensors for better low light performance, beefier cpu/memory enabling better memory management for 1080p 3D video, and a more view-able screen for outdoor use.

OK, I have been doing a lot of 3D video viewing on youtube and was wondering if what I am seeing with the Fuji W3 as compared to the Sony Bloggie 3D is correct.

To my eye, even though the Fuji is lower Resolution than the Sony in video, that is something I could live with. It does not look like VHS resolution like some have said.
The thing the Fuji does do that the Sony camera does not, is create a 3D image in picture and video, that looks fat, plump, and round..yes I am still talking cameras here..LOL..and the objects look like they have weight and are taking up real space. The 3D effect seems to fade smoothly, all the way around the sides of an object till it fades from view.
It sounds crazy, but in the Fuji clips, it almost seems like you can see and feel the air and atmosphere in-between the objects. With the Sony it just seems like a crystal clear void in-between objects with no atmospheric weight filling the space..? Strange I know.
The Sony seems to make things look much more flat, more of a cut out look, the same way a pop up book looks.

So am I seeing strange things or do others see this also ?

Can someone tell me if it is normal to hear a clicking sound from the W3 ? I think it happens when the W3 is focusing from near to far ?

Clicking normal...?

Nothing strange at all once you understand how stereography works.

The W3 uses a much wider interocular distance between the lenses which enables the 3D to be more pronounced at greater camera to subject distances. The Bloggie 3D is great for closer up imaging and will not diverge when viewed on a moderately sized screen. With the w3, you have to be careful not to get too close.

I carry a 3D Bloggie, 2 Sony HDR TD10's and a rig for mounting two TD10's on a slide bench to get extreme distant 3D scenes. The bench is capable of achieving that fat look you described of mountain ranges and city scapes using an IO of 30" but I cannot shoot subjects closer than 500 ft. At the other end of the extreme is the 3D Bloggie with an IO of 3/4" and I use this mainly for stealth work and for subject distances from 1Ft to 8 ft. Beyond 10 ft. everything looks flat, rather than fat.
I think the TD10 used it's less than ideal IO because it makes the camcorder smaller in size and has better market to the consumer. Ideally, the IO should be about 75mm.

Hi Don Landis,

WOW you have some nice equipment..Your taking fat 3-D-pictures with some very phat 3-D cameras...LOL

I did not think I was strange, and you seem to know what I am talking about.
On any given day, even a crystal clear day, you still can see the /air/atmosphere. I know that sounds strange but you know what I mean.
The Fuji W3 with the larger lens spacing seems to pick that up but the Sony Bloggie 3D with less lens gap and pictures that almost seem too sharp lose that feeling of air between objects..Bye-Bye atmosphere..Ha Ha

I haven't checked how much rotational disparity my w3 has, but I always run my pictures through stereo photo maker and do a batch auto-align before viewing.
My W3 looks soft too, especially in the corners, I find I can improve it by setting the aperture to the maximum f8. I use the A aperture priority setting on f8 when there is enough light, and switch to P in lower light to avoid motion blur.