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Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 115

post #3421 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanHomsey View Post
For me and my 520, both Phase's and csamos's settings come out entirely too yellow. Whites look yellowish white - not even close to neutral. If yours are coming out the same way I would reccomend resetting the input to the defaults. Set your color temp to "Medium" and use the free AVS HD709 disc to calibrate a proper contrast/brightness/tint/color.

Thats been my solution until I can snag a colorimeter to calibrate myself.
Medium is actually very blue no matter what model TV in the LD line up. The Medium color temp setting apparently appeals to some people, but it actually is too far off from D6500 natural light. Actual sunlight, on which D6500 is based, is a yellow light. The "whites" many people are used to seeing on TV will not produce accurate flesh tones, nor an accurate gray scale. If you check csamos and even the Expert 2 COOL setting and compare it to any of the presets, you will see the difference in gray scale and flesh tones.

For instance if "Sport" picture mode is selected, with Backlight 30-43,Contrast 82-90, Brightness 45-55, Color 50, Tint 0; and check it against csamos or my Expert COOL BD550 settings on a standalone DVD or Blu-ray player; the picture will be much more natural. If you set the color temp to Medium it gets way too blue.

Many times it it a cable box, game system, computer graphics card ,etc that may skew color temperature or picture settings also.

 

LG 42LD550 HDMI 1 Input ISF EXPERT2 LG BD550 Cool 2-7-11 Usable Range.txt 1.4580078125k . file
post #3422 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Medium is actually very blue no matter what model TV in the LD line up. The Medium color temp setting apparently appeals to some people, but it actually is too far off from D6500 natural light. Actual sunlight, on which D6500 is based, is a yellow light. The "whites" many people are used to seeing on TV will not produce accurate flesh tones, nor an accurate gray scale.

To me, the warm setting is much further from 6500k than medium. I'm not sure how yellow 6500k is supposed to be but I dont see much, if any, of it in the 6500k bias light I have behind the TV. Maybe you're right and my eyes are just so accustom to excessive blue that proper d65 looks overly yellow to me. Right now I just can't see it on my set - I'll be interested to see what the meter tells me when it arrives.
post #3423 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

What's interesting on my set (S-IPS) is that the closer I am to the screen, the quicker it gets cloudy as I move off-center. The further away I get, I can move way off-center and see no ill-effects. It's only noticeable when I am closer to the screen than a reasonable watching distance.

That's really odd because I don't see that all at close viewing. Normally we're about 10' away and either 1' to about 5' off center and the pic is fine. When I walk past the tv, usually about 2' away I don't notice anything. I think there's just some inherent differences even within the same IPS family of panels.
post #3424 of 5047
@Phase -

Have you updated any of your settings? I think I've sort of lost track where I am with the current set and would like to "reset" my baseline settings if need be.
post #3425 of 5047
I finally got the first phase of my 47LD520 installation finished today. It'll stay like this for quite a while I imagine, as the next phase requires moving a gas line in the wall right where the left in-wall speaker will go.

When I first got my TV, I mounted it to the wall, then added some simple shelving brackets to rest the speakers and components on, but none of the cables were run in the wall. Here's how that looked:



It worked, but it was messy and ugly.

Then I removed everything and laid out the locations for all of the wall plates, behind which all of the various cables would be run. I also ran 2 power lines to a dual outlet, one always hot for the TV, and one run through a dimmer switch for the rope lights I would attach to the back of the TV. Here's how it looked after I had all of the gang boxes in place:



Here's the current look with everything back on the wall, all cables hidden either in the wall or in the custom storage rack I built using simple pre-made shelving from Home Depot:



Right now some of the brackets are visible. I may paint them to match the wall color at least, so they're not as obvious.

Here's another look from farther back that shows how it looks next to the fireplace. Overall I'm very pleased with how it turned out.



Phase 2 will be to move a gas line that goes right down the wall where the left speaker is and then switch to in-wall speakers around the TV.

Phase 3 will then be to move the components to a closet and run all cables through the attic/wall. It may end up happening the same time as phase 2, but not for a while yet.
post #3426 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post


Phase 2 will be to move a gas line that goes right down the wall where the left speaker is and then switch to in-wall speakers around the TV.

Phase 3 will then be to move the components to a closet and run all cables through the attic/wall. It may end up happening the same time as phase 2, but not for a while yet.

Very nice Carl. If you're ever out in the Bay Area looking to pick up a little work, let's talk I was proud with my accomplishment of putting the LG on a media console, hiding the ambient light, and tying up all of the cables into a neat little bundle, labeled of course, and making them almost invisible. However, you should see the koi pond I built !
post #3427 of 5047
So i received my 55" LD630 this week. It was a replacement for a 50" PK550 that i had a lot of trouble with (initial panel had poor screen uniformity, replacement had other issues, there was no more replacement stock in the near future so i was offered the 55" LD630 as a replacement).

The 55" LD 630 has screen uniformity issues as well. It seems i have uneven backlighting that causes vertical streaks. It's very subtle and not really a concern when watching multi coloured/patterened images, but when i watch hockey or soccer (which along with movies make up my viewing habits) where the background is a uniform colour the vertical streaks are visible when ever there is panning across the screen (left to right....so following the action of the play). It's subtle, but annoying.

There is also a flash point near the top of the screen. It's very subtle and only can be seen when the screen is mostly black (it's basically a circular spot of hazy grey). I would consider this more of a minor problem, but coupled with the vertical streaks from the uneven backlight i would say i'm not 100% satisfied with the TV. I should also mention that while watching a HD DVD the other day, the movies menu screen has the selection normally highlighted a SOLID red, but this TV displays the solid red as flashing constantly.

My question is for any members who've had their panels replaced because of uneven back lighting.....were the replacement panels better? I've already pushed LG by getting this replacement set (which cost more than my original TV) and i know if i push them for a replacement panel i suspect they will give me a bit of a hard time. I don't mind fighting them on this if the replacement panel will fix the issues, but i'm not sure i have the endurance to deal with them if the results will still be the same.

I am shocked at the quality control at LG. Their TVs all seem to have issues (or perhaps i'm unlucky or have unrealistic expectations for a TV in this price range?)
post #3428 of 5047
I bought a 47ld520 a few weeks ago and just wanted to give a general thanks to the heavyweights in this thread. Reading through it helped me make my decision, and the calibration settings have been great starting points for my own tweaking, especially csamos' since he has the same model.

To add a bit to the recent discussion about yellow whites, I entered in csamos' settings and agree that the whites seemed a bit yellow, especially brighter whites. I downloaded the AVS 709 disc and tried some of the basic patterns to help dial in my panel a bit better. I needed brightness at 52 to satisfy the black clipping test. But more relevant to the topic, the white clipping test showed that the brightest blinking bars (247-250, in this case) clearly had a red tint to them. It was very obvious and not just a matter of me being used to cooler whites or something. To remedy that, I changed the IRE 100 settings by dropping red from 13 down to 5. That eliminated the red veil from the brightest bars and, in regular tv viewing, made a noticeable change for the better with whites. I made some other tweaks based on the AVS patterns, but that IRE 100 tweak was the big one.
post #3429 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibdied View Post

I bought a 47ld520 a few weeks ago and just wanted to give a general thanks to the heavyweights in this thread. Reading through it helped me make my decision, and the calibration settings have been great starting points for my own tweaking, especially csamos' since he has the same model.

To add a bit to the recent discussion about yellow whites, I entered in csamos' settings and agree that the whites seemed a bit yellow, especially brighter whites. I downloaded the AVS 709 disc and tried some of the basic patterns to help dial in my panel a bit better. I needed brightness at 52 to satisfy the black clipping test. But more relevant to the topic, the white clipping test showed that the brightest blinking bars (247-250, in this case) clearly had a red tint to them. It was very obvious and not just a matter of me being used to cooler whites or something. To remedy that, I changed the IRE 100 settings by dropping red from 13 down to 5. That eliminated the red veil from the brightest bars and, in regular tv viewing, made a noticeable change for the better with whites. I made some other tweaks based on the AVS patterns, but that IRE 100 tweak was the big one.

Welcome and congrats on your purchase!

I would really love to get my colorimeter on your tv to measure what it is doing compared to mine. Do you have an S-IPS panel? What backlight setting are you using?

I hope to go through a number of tests tonight and post some findings.

I need to find someone else in Austin with a 47LD520!
post #3430 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibdied View Post

To add a bit to the recent discussion about yellow whites, I entered in csamos' settings and agree that the whites seemed a bit yellow, especially brighter whites. I downloaded the AVS 709 disc and tried some of the basic patterns to help dial in my panel a bit better. I needed brightness at 52 to satisfy the black clipping test. But more relevant to the topic, the white clipping test showed that the brightest blinking bars (247-250, in this case) clearly had a red tint to them. It was very obvious and not just a matter of me being used to cooler whites or something. To remedy that, I changed the IRE 100 settings by dropping red from 13 down to 5. That eliminated the red veil from the brightest bars and, in regular tv viewing, made a noticeable change for the better with whites. I made some other tweaks based on the AVS patterns, but that IRE 100 tweak was the big one.

I have the 47LD520 as well. I'm not sure what you mean by lowering the IRE 100 settings on the red from 13 to 5. Are you referring to ALL of the IRE settings for red (100, 90, 80, etc) or are you referring to the CMS red and red tint? My CMS red is -10 and the tint is -5. The IRE red settings range from -4 to 1 depending on the IRE setting.
post #3431 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

I have the 47LD520 as well. I'm not sure what you mean by lowering the IRE 100 settings on the red from 13 to 5. Are you referring to ALL of the IRE settings for red (100, 90, 80, etc) or are you referring to the CMS red and red tint? My CMS red is -10 and the tint is -5. The IRE red settings range from -4 to 1 depending on the IRE setting.

I think he means merely lowering red from 13 to 5 at IRE 100 only to adjust the white balance.
post #3432 of 5047
csamos - I really like what you've done there. It's very unobtrusive tucked away in the alcove like that, and will be even more so when you finish it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post

Phase 3 will then be to move the components to a closet and run all cables through the attic/wall. It may end up happening the same time as phase 2, but not for a while yet.

You better get on this pretty quick - that austin attic is going to be uninhabitable very soon

Nice work.
post #3433 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

csamos - I really like what you've done there. It's very unobtrusive tucked away in the alcove like that, and will be even more so when you finish it up.

Thanks! It really will be very nice when it's totally done. But for now it opens the room up a lot compared to when my big 64" Pioneer was there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

You better get on this pretty quick - that austin attic is going to be uninhabitable very soon

Nice work.

Ha! You'll have to fight my best friend for it. He's been threatening that for years. I really have an awesome attic, too. There's enough room up there for several more rooms.
post #3434 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibdied View Post

But more relevant to the topic, the white clipping test showed that the brightest blinking bars (247-250, in this case) clearly had a red tint to them.

More confirmation of the differences between sets. On my 47LD520, with csamos settings the white clip blinking bars are fine.

Curious - could you also see the red tint in the grayscale ramps?
post #3435 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post
I think he means merely lowering red from 13 to 5 at IRE 100 only to adjust the white balance.
That's sort of what I thought but when I looked at my settings, they were polar opposites. Did you post these settings? I don't remember where I put them because I don't think I've tried them on my 520. Would you mind pm'ing them to me or just zip up what you have and post? muchas gracias
post #3436 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibdied View Post
I bought a 47ld520 a few weeks ago and just wanted to give a general thanks to the heavyweights in this thread.

But more relevant to the topic, the white clipping test showed that the brightest blinking bars (247-250, in this case) clearly had a red tint to them. It was very obvious and not just a matter of me being used to cooler whites or something. To remedy that, I changed the IRE 100 settings by dropping red from 13 down to 5. That eliminated the red veil from the brightest bars and, in regular tv viewing, made a noticeable change for the better with whites. I made some other tweaks based on the AVS patterns, but that IRE 100 tweak was the big one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
That's sort of what I thought but when I looked at my settings, they were polar opposites. Did you post these settings? I don't remember where I put them because I don't think I've tried them on my 520. Would you mind pm'ing them to me or just zip up what you have and post? muchas gracias
Attached are Carl's first settings.

This is what I see on my 42LD550 also. I noted that right after csamos initial settings post. The whites didn't look just more yellow. They were reddish pink. I still think the i1 Display 2 or some other factors are at play in this besides differences between TVs. Unless Carl sees no red present using AVS HD 709. But the red was very apparent in my bars also, and the whole setting is too red on my TV for IRE 100 down to IRE 10.

 

LG 42LD550 HDMI 1 ISF EXPERT 1 CSAMOS Red Push 2-28-11.txt 1.388671875k . file
post #3437 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanHomsey View Post
To me, the warm setting is much further from 6500k than medium. I'm not sure how yellow 6500k is supposed to be but I dont see much, if any, of it in the 6500k bias light I have behind the TV. Maybe you're right and my eyes are just so accustom to excessive blue that proper d65 looks overly yellow to me. Right now I just can't see it on my set - I'll be interested to see what the meter tells me when it arrives.
Your TV may very well look too yellow and may not be your eyes. There seems to be a lot of variation between model/screen size. That said , though, a calibration based on using the Warm color temperature would still likely be most accurate rather than Medium. Medium seems to have a gamma curve that just can't be corrected with IRE adjustments.
post #3438 of 5047
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I am unable to search the forum with that function currently shut down. The LG site was no help.
My problem is with the Toslink Digital audio output. I am not getting any output while on OTA viewing. I know my connections, amp, and speakers are OK since I can get audio when using my DVD as a source. I don't see much in the audio menu selection to help. I did have to figure out that turning off the internal is the only way to get any audio out of the optical output at all. Didn't see that in the manual.

I was very disappointed to see that no analog audio outputs are available on the LG 42LD550. I am an old school guy. I had to go out and buy something to receive the optical PCM signals from the LG even though I have a perfectly fine stereo system sitting nearby. I purchased a Vizio VSB200 sound bar. Sounds OK for the $98 I spent and I really like that it has a sub woofer output. I put that to use.

Fred
post #3439 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
Attached are Carl's first settings.

This is what I see on my 42LD550 also. I noted that right after csamos initial settings post. The whites didn't look just more yellow. They were reddish pink. I still think the i1 Display 2 or some other factors are at play in this besides differences between TVs. Unless Carl sees no red present using AVS HD 709. But the red was very apparent in my bars also, and the whole setting is too red on my TV for IRE 100 down to IRE 10.
Thanks. I'll make sure I don't lose them this time. I'll set them up and run them as my OTA setting.
post #3440 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cc6569 View Post
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I am unable to search the forum with that function currently shut down. The LG site was no help.
My problem is with the Toslink Digital audio output. I am not getting any output while on OTA viewing. I know my connections, amp, and speakers are OK since I can get audio when using my DVD as a source. I don't see much in the audio menu selection to help. I did have to figure out that turning off the internal is the only way to get any audio out of the optical output at all. Didn't see that in the manual.

I was very disappointed to see that no analog audio outputs are available on the LG 42LD550. I am an old school guy. I had to go out and buy something to receive the optical PCM signals from the LG even though I have a perfectly fine stereo system sitting nearby. I purchased a Vizio VSB200 sound bar. Sounds OK for the $98 I spent and I really like that it has a sub woofer output. I put that to use.

Fred
You may want to make sure that you have "Multi Audio" in the Q.Menu set to English and in Menu, make sure under "Option" you have language set to English there also.
post #3441 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
Thanks. I'll make sure I don't lose them this time. I'll set them up and run them as my OTA setting.
I'm confused. Run which settings for OTA? Carl's settings are for HDMI.

Maybe it;s me. I'm tired and ready for shut eye.
post #3442 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
You may want to make sure that you have "Multi Audio" in the Q.Menu set to English and in Menu, make sure under "Option" you have language set to English there also.
Thanks for the quick response Phase700B. I just checked both of these settings and they ARE set to English. Still no digital audio out with OTA source. So are you saying then that you DO have digital audio output with OTA source?

I just tested the audio using another source - Netflix Netcast. This DOES give me audio on the Toslink digital output.
post #3443 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
I'm confused. Run which settings for OTA? Carl's settings are for HDMI.

Maybe it;s me. I'm tired and ready for shut eye.
No, you're not confused, I'm just not being very clear. Been a very long weekend with bad karma I just realized that they are in fact HDMI which won't look right for OTA input.
post #3444 of 5047
I spent some time this evening doing some more analysis and calibration work on my 47LD520. I realized that my Sony blu-ray player actually had brightness up a few notches, which accounted for my initial low brightness setting of 40. I made sure everything on my blu-ray player was zeroed out before doing anything this time.

I once again left my backlight set to 25. I just can't stand it any higher than that. The blue glow of the backlight is so painfully obvious to my CRT-trained eyes.

Here are my newest settings. The main things that changed were brightness, color, and some of the white balance and CMS settings. This time I upped color a tad and then used CMS settings to fine tune things a bit from there.

Aspect: just scan
Energy saving: off
Picture mode: isf Expert 1
Backlight: 25
Contrast: 87
Brightness: 52 (was 40)
H sharpness: 50
V sharpness: 50
Color: 53 (was 49)
Tint: 0

Expert Control
---------
Dynamic contrast: off
Noise reduction: off
Digital noise reduction: off
Black level: low
Color gamut: BT709
Edge enhancer: off

Color temperature: Warm
Gamma: 2.2

Liminance: 130

white balance:
100: 13 0 2
90: 5 0 1
80: 4 0 -3
70: 6 0 0
60: 5 0 2
50: 4 0 3
40: 2 0 3
30: 2 0 2
20: 1 0 0
10: 2 0 -7
0: 0 0 0

CMS:
Red color: 1
Red tint: -9
Green color: -1
Green tint: -12
Blue color: -3
Blue tint: -21
Yellow color: 0
Yellow tint: 0
Cyan color: 0
Cyan tint: 2
Magenta color: 0
Magenta tint: 0

I've attached the resulting graphs these settings generated on my TV. All shades of grey (including white) all look perfect to me with no red or blue tint at all, just as the white balance graph shows. It's interesting that my white balance settings require so much red to be added from 50 IRE on up.

I've done a little bit of content viewing, and so far it looks very nice. The Fellowship of the Ring is on DirecTV right now, and it looks so good I can't turn it off.

Leaving all settings like this, I ran 2 more full sweeps with the backlight set to 0 and then set to 50. There were some slight changes in the various graphs compared to my backlight 25. I'll generate some graphs and such tomorrow and post the results. I'm too tired to continue anymore tonight.
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post #3445 of 5047
nice setup carl! why didn't you put the tv above the fireplace though...seems like it would be less crowded. what kind of speakers and receiver do you have? turned out great.
post #3446 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cc6569 View Post
Thanks for the quick response Phase700B. I just checked both of these settings and they ARE set to English. Still no digital audio out with OTA source. So are you saying then that you DO have digital audio output with OTA source?

I just tested the audio using another source - Netflix Netcast. This DOES give me audio on the Toslink digital output.
Sorry didn't get this till this morning. Yes, I get Dolby Digital output from my OTA tuner, as well as any HDMI input device. This is puzzling because I also have a 42LD550 with manufacture date of June 2010.

I know you said you DVD/Blu-ray gets you DD out to your receiver, but did you try both PCM and DD settings on the receiver? Maybe it's a set up issue on the receiver?
post #3447 of 5047
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post

I've attached the resulting graphs these settings generated on my TV. All shades of grey (including white) all look perfect to me with no red or blue tint at all, just as the white balance graph shows. It's interesting that my white balance settings require so much red to be added from 50 IRE on up.
There has to be quite a variation in panels or main boards for this much difference in models/screen size. If I put your settings in my TV I not only have too much red at IRE 100, but at IRE10 and IRE20 the blacks and dark grays have a very red tint to them. That would explain why my TV needs red at -12 or -13 in CMS also. If I have red at +1 in CMS red is over saturated and glows.

So, as I've always said, any settings should be regarded as baseline for a starter and mileage may vary.
post #3448 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinzg35 View Post
nice setup carl! why didn't you put the tv above the fireplace though...seems like it would be less crowded. what kind of speakers and receiver do you have? turned out great.
Thanks!

Above the fireplace would be just about the worst place for the TV in my room. My couch is parallel to the TV where it is now, so I sit head-on with its center just slightly above eye-level (I opted to make the top of the TV match the mantle for aesthetics), and the surround speakers are placed accordingly. If I had it above the fireplace, it would be way too high for one, and I would have to rotate my body or head 45 degrees to see it. Since I watch my TV a lot, I want it in the best position for watching.

I use a Pioneer VSX-920-K receiver, Paradigm speakers for the front 3 channels, and Emotiva in-ceiling speakers for the surrounds.
post #3449 of 5047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
There has to be quite a variation in panels or main boards for this much difference in models/screen size. If I put your settings in my TV I not only have too much red at IRE 100, but at IRE10 and IRE20 the blacks and dark grays have a very red tint to them. That would explain why my TV needs red at -12 or -13 in CMS also. If I have red at +1 in CMS red is over saturated and glows.

So, as I've always said, any settings should be regarded as baseline for a starter and mileage may vary.
Yeah, for sure. I found your settings on my TV likewise don't work at all either.

Hmm, maybe I'll put an ad in craig's list for free or very cheap calibrations of 520 and 550 models so I can build up a good sample set of calibration variations. That would be pretty interesting actually.
post #3450 of 5047
Our TV is just barely a month old and we are new to big screen TV's. We bought this TV at Costco. I contacted LG over the weekend with a problem we noticed. Here is what I wrote:

We have noticed that we get occasional flashes of colors in various spots on the screen when we are watching TV. We get green colors, red colors, and so on. They just sort of flash quickly and then go away. Just happening occasionally.

The TV is only hooked up to a DirecTV DVR receiver. We don't own a DVD player. I did all LG requested us to do including a "hard reset". We still see the color flashes. I would say they happen about once or twice an hour.
LG said we would need a service center to look at but we're still in the 90 day return policy at Costco. We do love this TV except for that.

So, is this a easy repair? Should we even try to repair or just return to Costco? You folks are pro's about these so us very senior couple will reply on your professional help.
Feel free to reply here or PM us. Thanks so much for your kindness
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