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Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 119

post #3541 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:00am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Thanks for the article. I had to read it twice though. I still say chemistry is much easier to understand At least it's a linear logical science.
Are there any features (settings) in the new crop of Blu-ray players to look for that address these issues? I never thought that buying a new tv would take me so far beyond just watching tv and movies I love learning new stuff!

Welllll. . . maybe we can trade. I always thought organic chemistry was kind of complicated and a bit of voodoo.

Tell me how I can synthesize some cheap substitute for gasoline that produces just as many btu/galllon and also how to make some good back yard hooch and maybe we can talk Blu-ray player options and specs!
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post #3542 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:02am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Otto, get a cheap Blu-ray player already

You won't have to worry about any of this.

BTW, I bought a PS3 to replace my BD570!

How does the Blu-ray in the PS3 work for you Henry? Did you use the same settings that you had for the BD570?

It must be lunch time in California I take it?
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post #3543 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Otto, get a cheap Blu-ray player already

You won't have to worry about any of this.

BTW, I bought a PS3 to replace my BD570!

LOL I know, I know. It's an old dog, new tricks kinda thing. I'm almost finished with my home VHS tapes being transferred to DVD (the Sony is a VHS-DVDR) and as soon as that's done I'll be in the market for a BR. I'm looking at the BD550. I don't need a state-of-the-art whizz-bang player just one that will do the job for my simple needs
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post #3544 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinzg35 View Post

Thanks for the info.

I'm assuming that LCD manufacturers are trying to get close to plasma technology with the local dimming, edge lit, etc. I'm still trying to get used to this LCD coming from a plasma but I'm getting there=)

I had the same issue coming from RPTVs that had CRTs in them and no fixed pixels. However, I love the color palette on my 42LD550, it's bright picture, and detail in dark areas is excellent. I do like a natural looking picture and the LD series seems to provide it with few trade offs.
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post #3545 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:08am
Not quite lunch yet, but getting there. I'll be going to Fry's

The PS3 will be arriving this afternoon. Gonna hook it up tonight and update you guys tomorrow. The plan is to use the same numbers (your latest Expert 1 HDMI Warm).

BTW, I found that putting Contrast at 90, like I did recently, is too high, even though it matches the AVS HD disc patterns. It didn't seem to cause any clipping, but it was too bright overall and causing eye fatigue. I'll have to aim for a lower number, which means I'll be able to see all the bars, but for white that is ok.
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post #3546 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Welllll. . . maybe we can trade. I always thought organic chemistry was kind of complicated and a bit of voodoo.

Tell me how I can synthesize some cheap substitute for gasoline that produces just as many btu/galllon and also how to make some good back yard hooch and maybe we can talk Blu-ray player options and specs!

Setting up a still is fairly simple but doing so in a residential area might raise some suspicions especially once the distillation process takes place and you get that pleasant alcohol aroma Gasoline replacement no can do My actual area of chemistry expertise and training is probably not for a public forum Legitimate and legal research into the aforementioned class of compounds. Better living thru chemistry I always say
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post #3547 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Not quite lunch yet, but getting there. I'll be going to Fry's

ooh, haven't been there for awhile. wonder if I could get away with buying anything?
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post #3548 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

I had the same issue coming from RPTVs that had CRTs in them and no fixed pixels. However, I love the color palette on my 42LD550, it's bright picture, and detail in dark areas is excellent. I do like a natural looking picture and the LD series seems to provide it with few trade offs.

something is missing, but i agree with you. i'm sure after time i'll like this lcd. i wish my friends would get lcds because they i wouldn't have something to compare it too!
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post #3549 of 5047
3/16/11 at 12:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Not quite lunch yet, but getting there. I'll be going to Fry's

The PS3 will be arriving this afternoon. Gonna hook it up tonight and update you guys tomorrow. The plan is to use the same numbers (your latest Expert 1 HDMI Warm).

BTW, I found that putting Contrast at 90, like I did recently, is too high, even though it matches the AVS HD disc patterns. It didn't seem to cause any clipping, but it was too bright overall and causing eye fatigue. I'll have to aim for a lower number, which means I'll be able to see all the bars, but for white that is ok.

I understand what you mean about eye strain. I had Contrast at 86 to 88 and when an all white screen appeared after watching "normal" scenes it lights up the whole room. I have a living room with four light sources around the perimeter plus the bias light behind the TV. The lights are all soft indirect light directed up at the ceiling and walls with a total wattage of around 60 to 70 watts with dimmer control. This is in a 15X24 foot room with 10 ft. ceiling.

When I last ran AVS HD 709 I went down to 82 on Contrast and I think brightness is still at 52 or 53. Even now, when the TV goes to an all white screen for some commercials it is very bright with backlight at 41 and Energy Saving set to Minimum or Medium at night. I haven't put the Kill-a-watt on the TV lately , but when I had the back light at 26 - 28 power usage was only about 115 watts if I remember correctly. How much of that translates to back light power. . . who knows?
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post #3550 of 5047
3/16/11 at 5:03pm
I didn't know that contrast and brightness don't do the same thing as they do on a CRT. Brightness controls black and contrast whites?
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post #3551 of 5047
3/16/11 at 6:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post
I didn't know that contrast and brightness don't do the same thing as they do on a CRT. Brightness controls black and contrast whites?
That was my understanding. Brightness controls the black level and contrast controls the intensity and white part of the image. I too are confused.

Hey! Did you see my responses to your queries?
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post #3552 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:21pm
Otto, I did see your response but didn't know what to think or say. Until now I haven't questioned 1080 and especially not coming from my blu ray player. Also, I've had insomnia for the past few nights.

What made me even start thinking about it is my new blu ray. We played some older DVDs so I could check out the upcoversion and the first was a really old one (can't remember which right now) but it didn't look as good as I expected, the next one wasn't as old but still not as good either.

Most new & newer blu rays, in the low and mid range, have problems. I guess I'll take a little grain vs skips, black outs and freezing.

However, you may have solved the problem for me. I'll try it at 720p. Thanks!
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post #3553 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post
I didn't know that contrast and brightness don't do the same thing as they do on a CRT. Brightness controls black and contrast whites?
Brightness controls on TVs have always controlled the black level, even on CRTs. It's a poorly named control, as people tend to think that means how bright the picture is. And contrast (sometimes called 'picture') controls the peak white level. I've never encountered a TV that was opposite of this.
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post #3554 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:28pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
That was my understanding. Brightness controls the black level and contrast controls the intensity and white part of the image. I too are confused.
You have it correct Otto. Whether a CRT display or fixed pixel, Brightness controls the black level and detail you see in dark areas of a picture. Contrast controls the white level or "brightness" if you will, of the high output light areas of a picture.
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post #3555 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post
When I was watching a bit of The Fellowship of the Ring on DirecTV the other night, I decided to pause it and take a screen shot, and then find the same location on the blu-ray version and take a screen shot to compare the two.

DirecTV's HD presentation was in 16:9 format, but the Blu-ray version is in 2.35:1 format. Naturally I assumed that DirecTV chopped off the left/right sides to make it fit a 16:9 format. But I was wrong! Look at the two versions of the same scene.

DirecTV (16:9)



Blu-ray (2.35:1)



The Blu-ray version actually has less content information than the version shown by DirecTV since they cut off the top and bottom!

I am really confused by this. I checked my blu-ray player's settings, and I don't see anything that would do something strange to the image. Any thoughts?
Your AVR? Does it do real pass-through? Did you check it on another player?
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post #3556 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post
Brightness controls on TVs have always controlled the black level, even on CRTs. It's a poorly named control, as people tend to think that means how bright the picture is. And contrast (sometimes called 'picture') controls the peak white level. I've never encountered a TV that was opposite of this.
I really thought brightness brought the light up and thus controlled the whites. I've never heard it discussed before today and never read anything about it. I'm going to make sure my daughters know.
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post #3557 of 5047
3/16/11 at 7:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post
Your AVR? Does it do real pass-through? Did you check it on another player?
I posted the explanation earlier, learned from some experts with film. Basically the movie was shot in super 35mm format, and Peter Jackson applied a 2.35:1 matte for the theatrical (and blu-ray) release, but for the version aired by DirecTV, that 2.35:1 matte was not used, and a 16:9 version instead was shown.

So the DirecTV version has more content, but isn't correct in terms of what Peter Jackson intended it to look like.
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post #3558 of 5047
3/16/11 at 8:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post
Otto, I did see your response but didn't know what to think or say. Until now I haven't questioned 1080 and especially not coming from my blu ray player. Also, I've had insomnia for the past few nights.

What made me even start thinking about it is my new blu ray. We played some older DVDs so I could check out the upcoversion and the first was a really old one (can't remember which right now) but it didn't look as good as I expected, the next one wasn't as old but still not as good either.

Most new & newer blu rays, in the low and mid range, have problems. I guess I'll take a little grain vs skips, black outs and freezing.

However, you may have solved the problem for me. I'll try it at 720p. Thanks!
No problem sweets! I was just wondering where you be. As far as insomnia goes, I've had that for a very long time and it sucks. I've tried everything (legal and not so) and nothing seems to help so I'm with ya.

I'm going to try another couple of DVDs and see if what I saw holds true but my guess is that it will be hit and miss, especially on my "old" DVD player. It's nice to be able to upconvert to 1080p but that might not always be the best way to view older movies (re: DVDs).
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post #3559 of 5047
3/16/11 at 8:53pm
I have a 32LD550 with the wireless dongle for network connections. Using Netcast, I can access all apps except Netflix whom I have an account with. When I click on this app, it says the network is not connected, but it is. Other internet apps work fine and the menu's network check shows the connection is good. Neither LG nor Netflix CS have a solution for this. I suspect there is a problem with the LG software, but they say I can not force it to reload same and the software check shows I have the latest version. Any ideas on this before I take it all back to Costco before my 90 days run out. I like the TV otherwise and Costco no longer carries these sets in my area.. Thanks.
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post #3560 of 5047
3/16/11 at 9:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LSC View Post

I have a 32LD550 with the wireless dongle for network connections. Using Netcast, I can access all apps except Netflix whom I have an account with. When I click on this app, it says the network is not connected, but it is. Other internet apps work fine and the menu's network check shows the connection is good. Neither LG nor Netflix CS have a solution for this. I suspect there is a problem with the LG software, but they say I can not force it to reload same and the software check shows I have the latest version. Any ideas on this before I take it all back to Costco before my 90 days run out. I like the TV otherwise and Costco no longer carries these sets in my area.. Thanks.

Do you have a Blu-ray player? If LG can't, or won't help you, then you may want to take it back and get a tv that doesn't have inet capabilities and pick up a nice Blu-ray that does. I have the 47LD520 with ATV2 and it works very well.
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post #3561 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:30pm
So my colorimeter arrived (Amazon rocks - ordered on Sunday, delivered on Tuesday).

Calibrating the grayscale was pretty much a piece of cake, thanks to the "Calibration for Dummies" link that Phase posted long ago.

I am having trouble making proper adjustments in the CMS however, and could use some advice. There seems to be no correlation between ±color/±tint and ±x,±y when trying to dial in the primaries and secondaries in CMS. In order to get closer to the REC709 target coordinates, I sometimes had to make gigantic adjustments to color/tint and then the luminance would go crazy, which looked wrong. Any rule of thumb for making these adjustments?

The attached thumbnails show the color measurements and CIE chart. These actually look pretty good (I think). All my deltaE's are <10, which is supposed to be acceptable, right? But I'd like to improve them if possible. According to "calibration for dummies", I should not have so much deltaE variation between the secondaries. BTW - these measurements are with all zeros for color/tint in CMS. So, how close is close enough?

Attachment 205615Attachment 205616
LL
LL
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post #3562 of 5047
3/16/11 at 11:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by csamos View Post

This makes 2 people up around Dallas now. Looks like I may have to do a weekend road trip to Dallas soon!

And to make it easier for you, it bstarfish and I are not far away from each other.

And, as everyone else has commented, nice job on the backlight comparison. Good stuff.
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post #3563 of 5047
3/17/11 at 12:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Otto, I did see your response but didn't know what to think or say.

Otto! Behave yourself!

Kidding, of course. Looks pretty bad when taken out of context, doesn't it?
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post #3564 of 5047
3/17/11 at 1:38am
Quick question for you all: if I were to order a 55ld520 from Amazon do you think I'd get the ips panel?

Getting a new set has been a nightmare. I started with a sony 55ex710 and that had horrible flashlighting. I currently have a Panasonic 50gt25 plasma but even after break in it gets IR pretty quickly and do miss the extra 5". I do game a lot so have been eyeing the boards and it seems the LG performes well so am considering that. The bad thing is how much prices have gone up since I started this about a month or so ago.
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post #3565 of 5047
3/17/11 at 5:08am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

So my colorimeter arrived (Amazon rocks - ordered on Sunday, delivered on Tuesday).

Calibrating the grayscale was pretty much a piece of cake, thanks to the "Calibration for Dummies" link that Phase posted long ago.

I am having trouble making proper adjustments in the CMS however, and could use some advice. There seems to be no correlation between ±color/±tint and ±x,±y when trying to dial in the primaries and secondaries in CMS. In order to get closer to the REC709 target coordinates, I sometimes had to make gigantic adjustments to color/tint and then the luminance would go crazy, which looked wrong. Any rule of thumb for making these adjustments?

The attached thumbnails show the color measurements and CIE chart. These actually look pretty good (I think). All my deltaE's are <10, which is supposed to be acceptable, right? But I'd like to improve them if possible. According to "calibration for dummies", I should not have so much deltaE variation between the secondaries. BTW - these measurements are with all zeros for color/tint in CMS. So, how close is close enough?

Here is a link that may help:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1261013

Also, as you are finding, all calibration software isn't exactly the same in the results you will get. I've found CMS vs software results should be followed up with some actual video test using AVS HD 709, AVAIA, or another DVD/Blu-ray media to check and fine tune. Case in point is I needed to cut back on red in actual program material because reds were too intense, yet the software showed it wasn't.
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post #3566 of 5047
3/17/11 at 5:21am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs600cubed View Post

Quick question for you all: if I were to order a 55ld520 from Amazon do you think I'd get the ips panel?

Getting a new set has been a nightmare. I started with a sony 55ex710 and that had horrible flashlighting. I currently have a Panasonic 50gt25 plasma but even after break in it gets IR pretty quickly and do miss the extra 5". I do game a lot so have been eyeing the boards and it seems the LG performes well so am considering that. The bad thing is how much prices have gone up since I started this about a month or so ago.

Yes, you are buying on the tail end of the model year and prices first went down, now they can be $150 to $200 or more.

You have a pretty good chance of getting and IPS panel in the 55" size since LG does make a 55" panel. But at this point who knows. Also, the biggest concern may be input lag depending on what games you play. The 520/550 120HZ TVs have reported input lag of 47 to 67ms. But if you can buy a TV at a seller where returns aren't a problem go for it.
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post #3567 of 5047
3/17/11 at 6:15am
Hello, can anybody help me? I have 32LD690, UK model, and i use it in Serbia. In UK is PAL-I system and here is PAL-BG, and i wasn't able to find any channel. I change country group in service menu from EU to AU and now i am able to find all channels but i don't have teletext function and have no domestic language in menu. Is there any way to change system of tuner in system menu from I to BG, i think that will solve my problem? I think the tuner must be multisystem like on all other tvs, just have to be changed somewhere. thanks.

P.S.
With country group set to EU i have domestic language in menu and system is I, greyed out and cannot be changed. The same is with all other country groups, system is I and greyed out, so i think it must be changed somewhere in system menu. If i can get country group EU and system BG, i think i will have all functions of my tv in my country, like teletext. Thanks.
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post #3568 of 5047
3/17/11 at 6:50am
I have a 42'' 520 and the screen has a small gash/hole something in it, just 2-3 pixels big...You can clearly see stuff under it, something easy like a straight black line so it's just the outside screen of the tv(not the actual lcd display I guess), but is that still basically irreplaceable?
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post #3569 of 5047
3/17/11 at 7:59am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vortextk View Post

I have a 42'' 520 and the screen has a small gash/hole something in it, just 2-3 pixels big...You can clearly see stuff under it, something easy like a straight black line so it's just the outside screen of the tv(not the actual lcd display I guess), but is that still basically irreplaceable?

If it's still in warranty they would probably replace the panel if it came that way. How did the gash get there? If it was caused by accident your home owners or rental insurance may cover a part of replacement cost.
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post #3570 of 5047
3/17/11 at 8:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

Otto! Behave yourself!

Kidding, of course. Looks pretty bad when taken out of context, doesn't it?

Doh! What did I say (write)? What ever I said, I didn't mean it I need to go back and see what's what.
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