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Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 131

post #3901 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post
Otto, the fact that it looks fairly close at default Expert doesn't surprise me since you have the IPS panel. I remember how little bstarfish and djams had to adjust to get the colors to match. The non-IPS panels, like my 60", are a whole different story. I simply cannot get red and green to match gray, but that's ok. I found that the best calibration I can do on this set is also the easiest and fastest:

1. Reset ISF Expert 1 or 2 to default
2. Increase Backlight to 65 (to be used with the Energy Saving feature)
3. Set Contrast to 93
4. Set Color to 52
5. Set Tint to G2
6. Go to Expert Settings and turn off Edge Enhancement

That's it . Brightest possible picture with tint-free grayscale, no color clipping, no black/white crush, and best possible black level.

After trying djams suggestion to change gray luminance via 2-point RGB adjustments, I can now say that without meters there is nothing more that can be done.

LOL, that's what I had on Expert 2 before I tried the AVS 709 disc.
post #3902 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post
Well it's amazing you've gotten as far as you have, considering you're flying blind.

It's a great manual (as VBB said previously). Link: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8968806/Patterns-Manual.pdf
I had two open when I did mine, that manual and this guide, from the Related Links section: http://www.missingremote.com/guide/d...bration-part-i
post #3903 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
I think that these base settings won't work well for and IPS panel LD520 or LD550 models Henry. Even if Energy Saving is used, backlight would need to be somewhat lower, like 50 max. Anything higher and color and detail gets very washed out. The same with Contrast. I get clipping on my IPS panel starting at 84 or so. Color should be good at 50 for starters, and I would only use Tint at G2 possibly for a Preset like Standard or Cinema.

I've noticed that the bigger panels, 52" and larger, seem to have quite different characteristics even for basic settings. But, it wouldn't hurt an owner to try the basic settings and see if it works.

Just my findings and opinion. Take with how ever many grains of salt...
Higher backlight doesn't have as much impact as brightness does. If I turn up backlight and turn down brightness I find that I have a brighter picture with darker blacks. One notch makes all the difference too and I know when I need to bring one or the other down. Also, I don't get crushed blacks that way either. I find that blacks crush much more easily when back light is set too low.
post #3904 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post
Too many models grouped together...
I understand where you're coming from, but I disagree with you.

If each model were in a separate thread, there would be information that is pertinent to all models scattered all over. There is so much commonality amongst these models that having them grouped together in one thread makes perfect sense.

So, do you have one of these TV's? How do you like it?
post #3905 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post
Higher backlight doesn't have as much impact as brightness does. If I turn up backlight and turn down brightness I find that I have a brighter picture with darker blacks. One notch makes all the difference too and I know when I need to bring one or the other down. Also, I don't get crushed blacks that way either. I find that blacks crush much more easily when back light is set too low.
Hmmm. . . on my 42LD550, Mitsubishi LT-46231, and my Phillips and Sanyo 26 inchers; if I have backlight up too high excess light leakage occurs and an all black O IRE screen will show it looking more dark charcoal gray. I can see that it would remedy black crush to an extent, but LCD panels all have a "residual" back light leakage that tends to make trade offs necessary. Generally, as csamos has also stated, the lower the back light level, the better black levels that can be obtained, and it is measurable with a colorimeter.
post #3906 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

I understand where you're coming from, but I disagree with you.

If each model were in a separate thread, there would be information that is pertinent to all models scattered all over. There is so much commonality amongst these models that having them grouped together in one thread makes perfect sense.

So, do you have one of these TV's? How do you like it?


I wish people would add signature or something so we can be sure which model they are talking about.
post #3907 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post

Well it's amazing you've gotten as far as you have, considering you're flying blind.

It's a great manual (as VBB said previously). Link: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8968806/Patterns-Manual.pdf

Thanks. I've done some of my best work with my eyes closed
post #3908 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcussen View Post

I wish people would add signature or something so we can be sure which model they are talking about.

Yes that sounds like a great idea, but for some reason the forum rules prohibit equipment lists in signatures.

You're living on the edge there marcussen

I'm pretty sure that this rule is in place because some (many?) folks have equipment lists that are as long as your arm and go into insane level of detail about each piece of equipment. This would consume a lot of resources. I'm sure you're OK with your simple sig.

Anyways, that's the reason I've never listed my model in my sig.
post #3909 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Hmmm. . . on my 42LD550, Mitsubishi LT-46231, and my Phillips and Sanyo 26 inchers; if I have backlight up too high excess light leakage occurs and an all black O IRE screen will show it looking more dark charcoal gray. I can see that it would remedy black crush to an extent, but LCD panels all have a "residual" back light leakage that tends to make trade offs necessary. Generally, as csamos has also stated, the lower the back light level, the better black levels that can be obtained, and it is measurable with a colorimeter.

I'll check 0 IRE.
post #3910 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post

Too many models grouped together... 130 pages becomes a monster. Please OP don't group three lines together again. not but

Sorry but the "rules" request that we not list equipment in the sig lines. I'll try to make mention in the body of my posts that I have the 47LD520.
post #3911 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcussen View Post

I wish people would add signature or something so we can be sure which model they are talking about.

I like that idea!
post #3912 of 5070
Come on, Otto. Be a rebel!
post #3913 of 5070
Like djams said, when you calibrate with the AVS disc make sure you have the manual. Once you know the patterns and what to look for, it's a piece of cake.

I wonder how different Nick's 42" IPS is from sheesh's and my larger non-IPS panels. Increasing backlight only makes the picture brighter on mine, with very minimal impact on black level. Of course there is more light leakage with a higher setting, but it never gets to the point where black becomes a washed out gray. It think this is simply because non-IPS panels supposedly have better black levels, but inferior color. As long as my brightness is set correctly where 16 just disappears, I get a pretty deep black no matter what backlight is set at. I need the fairly high backlight during the day and to a certain extent when there is lots of light in the room at night. What gives my picture the most pop now, though, is the increased contrast I was able to achieve compared to when I was using other people's settings. That's one of the reasons I highly recommend doing a simple calibration yourself.
post #3914 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post

Too many models grouped together... 130 pages becomes a monster. Please OP don't group three lines together again. not but

The thing is, all three series share the same basic functionality and, as far as the consumer is concerned, the same panel specs. Of course we know now that that is not true at all, but we didn't when the thread was started. Still, it wouldn't make much sense to have different threads based on the panel type either.
post #3915 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Come on, Otto. Be a rebel!

Henry! You know that I *always* play by the rules

Oops: 47LD520
post #3916 of 5070
One more thing about the AVS patterns:

Do not use A3 - Color Steps, A4 - Color Clipping, and B2 - Flashing Color Decoder to calibrate your colors and tints. Those patterns are not meant to be used that way. For setting your color and tint you should be using 4 - Flashing Color Bars and/or B1 - Flashing Primary Colors only. Then, once you're done, go to pattern A4 - Color Clipping to see how high you can go with your contrast before any of the colors start to clip.
post #3917 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

I like that idea!


What?




Take notes people because it ain't gonna be there forever-lol. I'm an old rebel which means I will rail against the machine but I now wear a helmet while riding on a motorcycle.
post #3918 of 5070
Has anyone tried calibrating in 2.4?

There's debate on another site. One comment is that movies are mastered using monitors that have 2.4 gamma.
post #3919 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Has anyone tried calibrating in 2.4?

There's debate on another site. One comment is that movies are mastered using monitors that have 2.4 gamma.

The calibration for dummies guide mentions that this debate has been going on for quite some time among professional calibrators.

csamos said he was going to check out the effect of different gamma settings and report his findings - but he seems to have abandoned us. Carl, are you out there?

At any rate, this sounds like a good next project for my new meter - thank you! I'll calibrate my set at 2.4 gamma and let y'all know my impressions.
post #3920 of 5070
Thanks Djams, I'm kind of curious.
post #3921 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post


At any rate, this sounds like a good next project for my new meter - thank you! I'll calibrate my set at 2.4 gamma and let y'all know my impressions.

Just when I thought there was a calm in the Force
post #3922 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Just when I thought there was a calm in the Force



I'm not sure I want to deal with it anymore. Spring is here and summer is around the corner. Maybe I'll pick it up again in the fall or winter. Then again getting D-Nice to my house is my number 1 choice. If I wouldn't have had to big send money to daughter in Alaska, he would have calibrated my sets already.
post #3923 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgould View Post

All, I have some sample HDV mpeg2 and JPG files, if you could test on yours to see this isn't just my set? I'll try to send to LG support as well, although I'm not sure they still do updates given this is a discontinued set...
I'll have to try them on a 2011 model eg 42LK530...

Videos you can test on USB, photos work on USB but break on DLNA... if you could test on either/both, I'd appreciate it!

video: (70& 30MB, should be fast)
[


Your not alone, it's not your set. I contacted LG support about this same issue back in early January after I purchased a 46LD550. There is an issue playing mpg/mpeg 1 and 2 files from USB and DLNA. I downloaded your files and the videos are squished from the sides on my TV as well because the TV is not utilizing the entire screen width. I did not have any problem with the photos and they displayed as they should, 2 of them were 4:3 (space on sides) and 2 were full screen 16x9 1920x1080. I tried them through USB & DLNA.

I recently returned the 46LD550 and bought a 2011 model 50PZ550 and it has the same exact issue. The manual for both TV's are the same so I think the core codec section is the same. I last spoke to an LG tech about a month ago and I gave him a link to a file I created but all he did so far is to confirm that the file plays correctly on his PS3. I just sent him another email to ask what the status is.

I don't know if you have tried this, I also have a problem playing 1920x1080 .mts files created from a Canon HD Camcorder. Over DLNA the files only play for a few seconds then it says 'LOADING' and this keeps happening. MTS files are not seen by the USB port unless you rename them .avi, .ts or mp4. They still don't play properly.
post #3924 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post

Thanks Djams, I'm kind of curious.

Anything for you, sheshe...

I'm curious as well.
post #3925 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post



I'm not sure I want to deal with it anymore. Spring is here and summer is around the corner. Maybe I'll pick it up again in the fall or winter. Then again getting D-Nice to my house is my number 1 choice. If I wouldn't have had to big send money to daughter in Alaska, he would have calibrated my sets already.

That's understandable. How did your AVS disc calibration turn out, though? You said you had my exact numbers before you started, but what did you end up with after? Was there any improvement like I've seen with my increased contrast?

Getting D-Nice or Chad out there would be awesome, but considering the cost of your TV, it would end up being more expensive than the set itself
post #3926 of 5070
Henry, I posted my first try a while back. There was improvement but I don't know what it is exactly other than to say that the image is more like the plasma now. I haven't had a chance to do another but I do want to give it a shot for daytime use.

Calibration would be for my G25 as well, the price for D-Nice to do both sets is too good to not include the LD550 and it will most likely benefit the most too.

I was considering selling the 550, but this isn't the year to try to replace it. Plasmas are having big problems this year. However, LG hasn't released theirs yet. I have high hopes for them.
post #3927 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshechic View Post



I'm not sure I want to deal with it anymore. Spring is here and summer is around the corner. Maybe I'll pick it up again in the fall or winter. Then again getting D-Nice to my house is my number 1 choice. If I wouldn't have had to big send money to daughter in Alaska, he would have calibrated my sets already.

I'm sort of with you there, at least the part about dealing with it anymore. I'm going to still play a bit but I think there's not much more than I can do without a colorimeter. I like the leaning aspect but there's only so much you can do, other than pass out some sage advice based on experience. I'd love to have someone come out and do a full-blown calibration on my set but with 3 sets of college tuition in various stages, I'm lucky I got the set at all I take it D- Nice is a calibrator (person or company).
post #3928 of 5070
hey i got a small, very small, crack on the screen and is only noticeable when the screen is all black or white but do you think my warranty would cover this? or even if they would even bother fixing it?
post #3929 of 5070
I hear ya, Otto. Yes, D-Nice is a calibrator on these forums. I think if I had a calibrator do all the work, it would take away all my fun. I wouldn't be able to mess with the settings anymore
post #3930 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post

hey i got a small, very small, crack on the screen and is only noticeable when the screen is all black or white but do you think my warranty would cover this? or even if they would even bother fixing it?

A crack? How did that happen? Are you sure it's not a dead or stuck pixel? I would think if it's still under warranty it should be covered.
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