Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 141

@Phase

Dewd, are your following me I just saw your comment in the "other" trhread Am I going to have to start looking over my shoulder?

Big Brother is certainly watching Did most of the yard work last weekend. All I need to do tomorrow is trim the bushes in the front and just kb the rest of the weekend. Pond is looking great and the vegetable garden has just exploded with growth. Certainly not OT for the thread but oh well......

@Phase (or anyone else who wants to jump in)

I've been meaning to ask you...... Did you view Seabiscuit with Real Cinema on or off? This will be my Panny's maiden voyage with a good Blu-ray and I'm just curious. Haven't heard much about Real Cinema lately and I never really paid that close attention to the comments because I didn't have a Blu-ray player at the time. And what about TruMotion. I'd like to view it under the same conditions that you did. I also need to pick which cal to use because my cal is CMS only (no IRE's).

Yeah, I think I have those settings in my "catalog". I did watch one old Blu-ray and when I hit Info the display read 1080p 24/"something". The Panny is at it's defaults and it appears that Auto sets it to 24FPS. I'll double check tho just to make sure. Would you recommend that I just leave the IREs and 0 because I have no way to verify them other than use yours or someone else's. In fact, would it be a good idea just to leave the IRE's at 0 (default) for all of my inputs again for the same reason (can't be verified)?

I've bought LG 42LD550 - a great TV, also, Yamaha RX-V467 receiver and Polk Audio Monitor50 Series II speakers.
I've got also Pioneer HTP-2920 speakers, that I could use center and small for surround sound.

I want to listen TV audio thru receiver. I connected HDMI-out from receiver to TV HDMI-in...couldn't find setting that produced sound. Connected optical audio cable, I get sound now.

Now,
Should I connect DVD player, VCR, my Argosy HV335T Mobile Video HDD Media Player to Yamaha receiver or connect DVD/VCR/Media Player to TV and get sound from TV thru receicer?

Any pluses and minuses?
Thanks in advice for any suggestions/advices.

Thanks boss. Damn, I thought calibrating in general was difficult enough to do now I have a whole 'nother set of things to play with. Sure wish I was easily satisfied I'd be all done and worry-free by now. But then I'd probably be bored as well I do lean towards the warmer settings so I may have to go back to one of your original warm settings (not the warm natural one that you posted up sometime ago). That was pre-AVS HD709 for me and I liked those settings, especially with my "basic" cals (brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc).

I have tried calling lg, they were not very bright. They wanted me to send the tv back to qvc which I am not willing to do. I bought the tv because of the widgets and the the netflix features that I can't really use. I tried a few different routers, including a Thompson and a netgear. Tried different routers, tried switching to 802.11g mode only, tried different settings. Nothing seams to work. It will connect, usually after trying connection 2 or 3 times. When I try to go into netflix it never comes up, and disconnects my connection. Im hoping one day a software update will fix it.

Forgive me for interrupting. Perhaps someone knowledgeable could help you in the Networking topic of AVS: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1332074

PS - I that doesn't work, I suggest you post in the Blue-ray Players topic. Lot's of people have had to resolve these type of problems.
Hugh

Well if your USB dongle works on other tv's (which I think you said it did) but it doesn't work with your tv (like it's supposed too) and various settings/routers don't work, then it sounds to me like it has something to do with the tv and you may have to return it. If you can get a Blu-ray player that has inet capabilities try that. If that works with no issues, then it's probably something to do with "dongle connection" on the tv. I chose not to get an LG that was inet capable for this very reason. I'd rather have my internet apps etc on the Blu-ray than the tv itself. More robust, easier to upgrade, and usually a better feature set. If your tv says that your firmware is current, then I wouldn't hope for a firmware update anytime soon.

I think they actually have. From what I've seen, they eliminated all the non-LG panel sizes in the 2011 models. No more 46, 52 and 60".

Nice to see you guys keeping the thread alive, btw! I had a very busy week last week. Didn't get a chance to log in until just now

Hi Henry. Glad you stopped by. We're trying to keep it alive but we're all pretty much cal'd out and there doesn't seem to be a lot of new blood with calibration issues or questions. I'm sure I could come up with a question or two but I'm sure ya'll are tired of me by now I tried contributing to another group but those folks are down right mean and sound like a bunch of bitchy little girls (my apologies to sheshechic if she sees this).

New: here have read the whole tread...i have the LD32550 and loving it.there is a W in the product code.
1 quick question..has any body found out how to change the power on time format from military to standard?

I see Phase has already answered you. That was the first question I had when I first bought my 47LD520. You get used to it after awhile. Besides, it's only on the screen for about 2 seconds and like Phase pointed out, the other screens, Info and Enter, use standard time.

thanks guys for the quick reply.was hoping it was a service menu setting.

One user has reported getting a 32LK450 with a VA panel, and also stated that the only panel types in stock at his local B&M's were VA. Disappointing...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20343096

I said I'd report back on the slow picture mode switching when I had the chance.

The problem is not related to dynamic contrast as suggested. What I've discovered it that even switching between my night/day ISF Expert setting exhibits the same super-slow 'brightness' (light output at 100IRE) adjustment. All auto picture enhancements are off in both my ISF expert presets. I reported earlier that it took 2-3 minutes for the light output to return to the original value - it's actually closer to 5 minutes. Also, it happens in both directions - switching from bright to dim, or from dim to bright. This really bugs me, because I thought that I've been directly comparing picture modes by switching using the Q. Menu. Turns out that in order to do this I'd have to wait 5 minutes (close my eyes and try to remember what the picture looked like before I switched... )

It'd be great if someone else with a meter could try this and see if it's normal behavior for these TV's.

@Otto - wondering if you ever got around to doing the Seabiscuit reference material check?

Totally off topic...

I was at BB this weekend, rainy day and had time to kill, so I snooped around the TV's - they had a 47LK520, but it was wall-mounted on the top row. Couldn't really get a good look at it, and no remote available. They did have a 55" 2011 LG SmartTV with the magic motion remote prominently displayed where I could play with it. Really liked the SmartTV, and the remote was pretty cool too. ISF Expert adjustments are identical to the LD series. I was hoping that they would have added color lightness adjustments in CMS.

Right next to this was a 55" LG passive 3D TV with plenty of glasses. While I am not at all interested in 3D, it REALLY worked well! If I were a gamer, I think I'd be pretty excited about the prospects of 3D gaming.

I was just thinking about you. I did get the Blu-ray Seabiscuit last week but haven't had a chance at all to watch it during the evening. I've still got your CMS cals to plug in and see how they look on my 47LD520 in comparison to my cals. I've decided to default the IRE's back to zero because I don't really have any way to verify them with various CMS cals and I did notice that there is a subtle difference if you keep the IREs the same and just apply different CMS settings. As Lou Costello said, "I've been a baad boy". I'm out of town for a few days at the end of the week so I'll try to do all that as soon as I can. With summer approaching, it gets darker later so I can't start my playing around time till later in the evening which conflicts with the power that be

I meant to ask, did you ever view your posted daytime cals at night with the Seabiscuit Blu-ray to see if there was an appreciable difference in "brightness"?

@djams

Ok...I took your settings (basics and CMS only) and plugged them into the Expert 2 setting (after resetting) for my OTA input. I realize that your settings were done via HDMI but I don't have any way to calibrate that on my LG, but from what I've seen at least on my set, the settings seem to translate well across the inputs.

I've only been watching about 15 minutes now (early evening with indirect light coming thru the sliding glass doors) and it doesn't look too bad. Maybe a tad bit on the red side but certainly not brassy or bleeding. Local evening news is almost over so the big tests are coming up.... Jeopardy, Wheel, and yes, DWTS. Most of our LG use is OTA so I'll give this a week or so and then try the HDMI input for the horsey test. I may even try your IREs.

Thanks for the feedback Otto. I would definitely recommend trying the complete settings including white balance, for two reasons: 1) you have the same tv/manufacture date as mine,so good chance they will work out. 2) when I increased overall picture brightness for the daytime cal, it really changed the IRE settings a lot (as well as cms settings).

I'm not sure the cms settings would be 'right' without the accompanying IRE settings.

Yes. I found the 'bright' settings to be a bit too much in a dimly lit room. After watching for about an hour I started to feel eye strain (seabiscuit not required, just too bright overall)

This is what I'm trying to figure out. At times, it appears to me that there isn't much difference if you have just the CMS settings without the accompanying IRE's and other times, like what I'm seeing now with your CMS and no IREs, there seems to be a bit of a red push. That makes it difficult for those of us who can't calibrate the IREs and depend on other's calibrations, which we know, don't always transfer well from set to set even within the same model line. Forgive the newbie question but by white balance are you referring to contrast? I didn't have any eye strain last night with your CMS and basic cals OTA and it seemed ok (as far as "brightness" goes) in the late afternoon. Just the apparent red push especially on faces. Program source certainly has a lot do with it but it just seemed more noticeable. I'll put in your IRE's when I get home this afternoon and see if that balances out the pic a bit. So I'll be using your cals exactly as posted for OTA (I think you had DC on low but I turned it off for me). V and H Sharpness seems a tad off for me as well. Phase's were set higher and that seemed better but I'll keep your's set for awhile and see how it settles in before making any modifications or doing the horsey test.