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Official LG xxLD550 xxLD520 xxLD650 Owners Thread - Page 157

post #4681 of 5070
lol

well thanks for that great answer phase. that all seems logical, just a shame there seems to be no way of fixing it i wish i had gotten the LD450 which doesnt have 100Hz, so the problem would probably not happen. i got the LD550 just for the 1 extra HDMI lol (these are UK versions), i dont even use/like the 100Hz
post #4682 of 5070
I haven't watched a movie for awhile but I don't ever remember seeing any studdering or motion issues at all watching a Blu-ray (special edition Avatar, Seabiscuit, True Grit) and the display indicated 1080p/24 nor any issues at all with "regular" DVDs of various quality. I'll go back this weekend and view a little of each again and see if it's there. Could it be that some BD players (non-PS3, xBox, etc) just play nicer (sync better) with my 520? I have all of the options off in the BD player so it just detects the LG and automatically sets the best resolution etc for it.
post #4683 of 5070
Thread Starter 
^ ^ ^

I'm sure all is ok with your 47LD520. You would have noticed it by now. And if your laptop plys fine through HDMI, then you know that's fine too.

No witch hunts. .... Halloween is still weeks away!
post #4684 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

^ ^ ^

I'm sure all is ok with your 47LD520. You would have noticed it by now. And if your laptop plys fine through HDMI, then you know that's fine too.

No witch hunts. .... Halloween is still weeks away!

Witch hunts fer sure Yeah, the MBP looks awesome when connected via mini-HDMI to HDMI (even doing homework ) so maybe I'll just let it be and see what happens with the others who are having issues. It's Friday!
post #4685 of 5070
So for anyone wondering out there, while searching and researching about my LG 46LD550 AUSMLFR for the past few days, it seems as if the LCD panel is not LG (well established) but rather has a panel made by Sharp. The Sharp LK460D3LA57 to be more specific.

Now tiem to figure out the details about that panel...

since the < < < is s-ips (LG panel), maybe the Sharp panel is a e-ips or h-ips panel since my off center picture still looks great (in my opinion)... has anyone found out?



this was my first post on here, hopethe info helped some people....
post #4686 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW04E46 View Post

So for anyone wondering out there, while searching and researching about my LG 46LD550 AUSMLFR for the past few days, it seems as if the LCD panel is not LG (well established) but rather has a panel made by Sharp. The Sharp LK460D3LA57 to be more specific.

Now tiem to figure out the details about that panel...

since the < < < is s-ips (LG panel), maybe the Sharp panel is a e-ips or h-ips panel since my off center http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-l...l#post10716984picture still looks great (in my opinion)... has anyone found out?



this was my first post on here, hopethe info helped some people....


You might try looking at this info on the link I am providing. It will require you to have a strong jeweler's eye loupe, or a camera with a good macro lens setting. Then compare the type of detailed pixel shape you see with the ones in the article: . . .http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-l...l#post10716984
post #4687 of 5070
I have re-read through the PDF manual for my 32LD550 TV, looking for information or a definite answer one way or the other as to whether it supports (ARC) for audio back to my receiver.

I don't find it anywhere on the TV's menus either, but depending on the settings for video for example not all settings are available for all choices so it still maybe there just not that I'm able to see.

I have a Sony HT-SS370 that I have turned the ARC feature on, connects via HDMI to the TV, before I spend too much more time on it I thought I'd better just ask if the TV supports it or not. I've tried using the SimplLink features setting it to turn off the TV's speaker and output to HT but no signal or sound comes out of the HT-SS370. --> Could be that - that's not an ARC feature but something else designed for an LG HTsystem, or it could be a cable issue (quality etc...), or a handshake back to the HT-SS370 issue.

If the TV supports ARC, I'll order some 1.4 new cables and keep at it; if not I'll just continue to use the Optical output from the TV back to the receiver and be happy I guess.
post #4688 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post

I have re-read through the PDF manual for my 32LD550 TV, looking for information or a definite answer one way or the other as to whether it supports (ARC) for audio back to my receiver.

I don't find it anywhere on the TV's menus either, but depending on the settings for video for example not all settings are available for all choices so it still maybe there just not that I'm able to see.

I have a Sony HT-SS370 that I have turned the ARC feature on, connects via HDMI to the TV, before I spend too much more time on it I thought I'd better just ask if the TV supports it or not. I've tried using the SimplLink features setting it to turn off the TV's speaker and output to HT but no signal or sound comes out of the HT-SS370. --> Could be that - that's not an ARC feature but something else designed for an LG HTsystem, or it could be a cable issue (quality etc...), or a handshake back to the HT-SS370 issue.


If the TV supports ARC, I'll order some 1.4 new cables and keep at it; if not I'll just continue to use the Optical output from the TV back to the receiver and be happy I guess.



None of the 2010 LG TVs in the LD series support ARC. So if you want audio form the TV. Toslinkor the headphone jack are the only two options. That said, you can do what many owners do and that is connect the HMDI from your inout devices tho the AVR forst, and then via HDMI to one ot the TV HDMI inputs.

I guess I am not sure what you are trying to do. Try turning ARC Off, connect a blu-ray or DVD player to the AVR and the AVR HDMI output to the TV.
post #4689 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post

I have re-read through the PDF manual for my 32LD550 TV, looking for information or a definite answer one way or the other as to whether it supports (ARC) for audio back to my receiver.

I don't find it anywhere on the TV's menus either, but depending on the settings for video for example not all settings are available for all choices so it still maybe there just not that I'm able to see.

I have a Sony HT-SS370 that I have turned the ARC feature on, connects via HDMI to the TV, before I spend too much more time on it I thought I'd better just ask if the TV supports it or not. I've tried using the SimplLink features setting it to turn off the TV's speaker and output to HT but no signal or sound comes out of the HT-SS370. --> Could be that - that's not an ARC feature but something else designed for an LG HTsystem, or it could be a cable issue (quality etc...), or a handshake back to the HT-SS370 issue.

If the TV supports ARC, I'll order some 1.4 new cables and keep at it; if not I'll just continue to use the Optical output from the TV back to the receiver and be happy I guess.

Turn the ARC feature off of your Sony HTS and use optical out from the LG back to your AVR. The LG does not support ARC.
post #4690 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Turn the ARC feature off of your Sony HTS and use optical out from the LG back to your AVR. The LG does not support ARC.

ditto. . . .
post #4691 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

None of the 2010 LG TVs in the LD series support ARC. So if you want audio form the TV. Toslinkor the headphone jack are the only two options. That said, you can do what many owners do and that is connect the HMDI from your inout devices tho the AVR forst, and then via HDMI to one ot the TV HDMI inputs.

I guess I am not sure what you are trying to do. Try turning ARC Off, connect a blu-ray or DVD player to the AVR and the AVR HDMI output to the TV.

Hey, thanks for the reply. After it not working and not finding it in the manual that's what I was (assuming is that it doesn't support it); however the fact that the Simplink has a setting for internal TV speakers or HT System gave me a tiny bit of pause to think it just might have it. Otherwise it's kind of a pointless setting as the owner can simply mute or turn down the sound of the TV to zero that gives the customer more controll options. So the customer always has the option to use TV speakers, I mean ? why would you want to limit the option with no gain or upside, which is what that appears to be --> just shuts off TV speaker output. And there is also that option to turn off the internal speakers in the audio menu.

Yeah, that's how I have things set up, Blu-ray, Xbox, PS3 are all connected to HDMI ports on the Sony HTIB and the sound comes from the Sony HTIB, unless I have the HTIB off & active passthrough ON if just want to use the TV speakers (but that's getting more and more rare). What I wanted to use A.R.C. for was when I use O.T.A. TV/ATSC Antenna to send that audio from the TV to the Sony HTIB.
As I mentioned I do already have it connected [TV output optical to HTIB via Optical Digital cable input]. TV via Optical to HTIB is an improvement over the smushed / compressed sound of the TV's speakers (which aren't bad just not as good as a decent HTIB obviously). It's especially noticiable at night when the big networks are broadcasting in DD / 5.1 on most programs.

The main issue is when streaming sound from the TV (optical out) via the LG's Netflix app to the Sony HTIB, it's not sending true 5.1 sound via the Optical to the HTIB. Ultimately I can use the Prologic settings to mimic & get a fairly O.K. sound but it's not as good as going HDMI with one of the other devices. Not a big deal. I don't pay for Xbox Live anymore and my PS3 has an older firmware for Jailbreaking so I can't use Netflix w/ either of them. I did just get a Sony BDP-s370 w/ Netflix on clearence that will send the Netflix audio via HDMI in OOPS 2.0 (NOT 5.1) but the interface (ff,rwd, skipping is awful). Especially compared to the LG's Netflix app.

LOL I was reaching for the Sun (LG Netflix + ARC) and just grabbed a few drops of rain from a cloud. I'll either get used to the Sony's app for it or not focus so much on the sound if I'm using the LG app / sound via optical out to the receiver.

I didn't consider the LG's headphones really at all. When I first got the TV and was testing all the features out I was really disappointed in the head phone set up. We have an Dec 2006 Philips plasma ambilight (love everything but the power consumption) and it's headphone design is wonderful. It's completely seperate from the TV Speaker audio. So having headphones plugged in doesn't disconnect the TV's internal speakers (like my LG does), and what's more the Phillips has an independent Headphone volume control that outputs quite a bit of power and doesn't distort until it's too loud for me to listen unlike the my LG. And with the LG the volume is the same control and it's very underpowered, I usually have to crank it up to 50 - 70 --> where as normal TV movie viewing with the TV speakers I'm down in the 15-35 range. Nothing like being tired and forgetting all that only to pull out the headphones @ 2AM and have sound come blarring out of TV speakers it 50+ volume!

Plus, that would only be stereo 2 ch sound I believe, so I'll be content/good using the optical still. It's better than just TV speakers by quite a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Turn the ARC feature off of your Sony HTS and use optical out from the LG back to your AVR. The LG does not support ARC.

Yeah, that's how i've been doing things..." if not I'll just continue to use the Optical output from the TV back to the receiver and be happy I guess."
It doesn't seem to matter ARC on or off, I mean having it enabled doesn't lessen or limit the sound coming in optically, or with any of the other HDMI connected devices I tried it with several different settings as I was testing it. But I did turn it off when I wasn't testing / trying to get it to work. So while connected to this TV it will stay off now (as there isn't any point to having it on when the TV doesn't support it), and sometimes those things do cause issues/problems that's something I like to avoid especially down the road... so I usually turn off items like that to avoid headaches issues later.
post #4692 of 5070
My tv is OTA only so I just leave the LG speakers off and run optical out to the AVR. DD 5.1 plays just fine (the audio for Terra Nova last night was awesome!). All other audio (BD-DVDs, streaming via the BD player's net apps, or the ATV2) are played thru the AVR.
post #4693 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DA1745 View Post

. . . . . I did just get a Sony BDP-s370 w/ Netflix on clearence that will send the Netflix audio via HDMI in 5.1 but the interface (ff,rwd, skipping is awful). Especially compared to the LG's Netflix app.

This is the best way to go if you have apps on a separate device. Why? Because you have ALL the picture setting options of an HMDI input rather than the limited TV video options for NetCast. Plus, with an AVR you have the best audio options available by feeding the Soney BD player into the AVR and get all sound options that NetFlix or any other app may offer.

With the LG TV, if you feed an HDMI input to the TV andit has A 5.1 soundtrack the TV down mixes it to only a 2 channel output via the Toslink. . . . EXCEPT it it's and OTA DD 5.1. The reason is. . . HDCP won't allow a high def audio signal to pass through. They don;t want people copying a fully functional copy of copyrighted material. . . video and audio. So even though you may not be "copying" the sound and video, HDCP "protects" you from doing it limiting even playback via a soundtrack converted to Toslink. nice huh!?
post #4694 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegam3 View Post

yep exactly the same here!

its such a shame cause apart from that the TV is great. its just such an annoying problem

this has been discussed here and there is no solution it seems

Well, I was offered a successful solution one page back. Changing the output resolution on my XBOX 360 to 1080i fixed the strange motion issues while playing DVDs.
post #4695 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Here is some further discussion regarding the video slow-down-speed-up or "stutter" issue. A new owner who happened to be a video engineer at local TV station took apart a video sequence that always exhibited the issue in a "Shield" episode he has on DVD. Here is the first and second part of his findings which included an answer to a question from me as to how he came up with his findings:

Quote:
Originally Posted by videojanitor View Post

OK, I might have found the problem! Can't do anything about it, but at least I think I understand what is going on.

The issue seems related to 3:2 pulldown, or more correctly, a BREAK in the 3:2 pulldown sequence.

I analyzed those two scenes from "The Shield" and found a 3:2 discontinuity at the cut -- I re-did the edit so that the 3:2 cadence was maintained (which involved simply removing one video frame), and voila -- no stutter!

Of course the question then becomes, what the heck can be done about it??

Quote:
Originally Posted by videojanitor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post
How were you able to deduce the 2:3 break? Did you just theorize that was it was the problem and edit out a frame to see if that was it?

I loaded the video into Womble's MPEG editing software and stepped frame-by-frame through the scenes. Because the software displays both fields simultaneously, there are interlace artifacts on any frame where the fields are comprised of adjacent film frames. So, stepping through, you get a cadence of "A-A-A-B-B," where "A" are frames that show no interlace artifacts, and "B" are ones that do.

The sequence repeated normally, until it got to the cut, at which point it was disrupted. The previous scene ended with two "A" frames, and at the cut, it was a "B" frame, but should have been the third "A" frame to preserve the sequence. By cutting out one frame and pulling up the rest, the cadence was restored and the TV liked it.

So, the problem appears to be that SOME 2010 and 2011 LD and LK models have a problem with a break in the 2:3 pull down frame cadence and causes the TV to readjust video frame display until it can sync back up. But, from what he stated, this also may be a problem if a frame is dropped during playback because of a momentary drop out or defect in the DVD or other signal source. This would explain why it often times is not repeatable. If a frame is dropped and the particular TV has this issue, it apparently will do the "stutter" until proper frame sequence is established again. Again, this seems to be an issue with only SOME models and TVs in the LD and LK line. My 42ld550 works fine, and many 47LD520s seem fine. . . some not. What isn't so apparent is why sometimes changing an xBox, PS3, cable box, or Blu-ray player to 720p or 1080i sometimes corrects the problem.

In any case, if an owner has this issue, it might be worth calling LG about it to see if there is a firmware or hardware fix that can remedy it. Hopefully they will be interested enough since it now has spanned two years in some production TVs in the LD and LK line.
post #4696 of 5070
Hello everyone!

Nick, got your PM. I have not tried changing resolutions to see if that fixes the stuttering issue. I've only changed 24Hz to 60Hz, and that seems to have fixed the issue not only with the PS3 but also with the LG BR player. The pulldown has always been my suspicion, especially since the stupid Real Cinema option doesn't seem to do anything
post #4697 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Hello everyone!

Nick, got your PM. I have not tried changing resolutions to see if that fixes the stuttering issue. I've only changed 24Hz to 60Hz, and that seems to have fixed the issue not only with the PS3 but also with the LG BR player. The pulldown has always been my suspicion, especially since the stupid Real Cinema option doesn't seem to do anything

Hi Henry! I trust all is well with you?
post #4698 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VBB View Post

Hello everyone!

Nick, got your PM. I have not tried changing resolutions to see if that fixes the stuttering issue. I've only changed 24Hz to 60Hz, and that seems to have fixed the issue not only with the PS3 but also with the LG BR player. The pulldown has always been my suspicion, especially since the stupid Real Cinema option doesn't seem to do anything

So then, your LG BLu-ray player did exhibit the stutter? I'm going by your previous post where you said you were going to try it. What is wierd is, now your experience is changing it to 60HZ solved it, whereas, videojanitor tried that and no matter what he got stutter as did others. Methinks there is still more to this. I think it is related to 2:3 pull down, but there is also and indication that just a dropped frame, which may disturb the cadence, also will cause the issue. Which would explain why most times it is not repeatable with the same scenes if backed up to the problem area. Well, it is only on some TVs, but it would be great if LG would take note and see if a firmware fix would resolve it.
post #4699 of 5070
I'm a new and proud owner of a of a 55 inch. Got a great deal on a use model. Can't wait to start playing with the settings.
post #4700 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

I new and proud owner of a of a 55 inch. Got a great deal on a use model. Can't wait to start playing with the settings.

Congratulations! Come back when you have questions. There's lots of help here.
post #4701 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

Congratulations! Come back when you have questions. There's lots of help here.

I'm looking for the most popular picture settings for my tv without having to look through tons of post. I have a 55 ld520.
post #4702 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

I'm looking for the most popular picture settings for my tv without having to look through tons of post. I have a 55 ld520.

I also have another question. How do I find out the hours of use on this TV?
post #4703 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post
I also have another question. How do I find out the hours of use on this TV?
The hours of use can be found by pressing menu, then the Red remote button to select Customer Service. . . then scroll down and select Product/Service Info.

For settings I can post a few here. You don't say what inputs you are using or what input sources you have. Also, any settings are highly dependent on each TV characteristics. But you can try these:

I would suggest trying BOTH the HDMI settings by putting one set of values in Expert1 and the other in Expert 2. Also, after inputing both settings, adjust contrast and brightness to match each so that an accurate comparison can be made.

 

LG XXLD550 HDMI CINEMA (User) PICTURE 12-4-10 Usable Range.txt 0.8876953125k . file

 

Djams 47LD520 TXT BRITE DAYTIME Setting 75% Saturation- 5-11-11.txt 1.1162109375k . file

 

LG 42LD550 HDMI Input ISF EXPERT Baseline 4-5-11 Usable Range.txt 1.5712890625k . file
post #4704 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

The hours of use can be found by pressing menu, then the Red remote button to select Customer Service. . . then scroll down and select Product/Service Info.

For settings I can post a few here. You don't say what inputs you are using or what input sources you have. Also, any settings are highly dependent on each TV characteristics. But you can try these:

I would suggest trying BOTH the HDMI settings by putting one set of values in Expert1 and the other in Expert 2. Also, after inputing both settings, adjust contrast and brightness to match each so that an accurate comparison can be made.

Wow my TV has 1430 hours of use and the set will be a year old on November. Is that consider a lot?

Thanks for the settings, I'm try them on in a few. As far as inputs, i'm only using a comcast box on HDMI 1.
post #4705 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

Wow my TV has 1430 hours of use and the set will be a year old on November. Is that consider a lot?

Thanks for the settings, I'm try them on in a few. As far as inputs, i'm only using a comcast box on HDMI 1.

I have 2159 hrs on my 42LD550 after about 14 months of fairly heavy use. So I would say 1430 isn't bad. . . actually, look at it as a nice break in. If there weren;t any issues by now, it should be good. You might want to take and air hose on low pressure and blow out the grills in the back of the TV though. Just try and keep the back light below 40 or so if you can, depending on your room lighting. I use a setting of 43 and then use the "Energy Saving" button on the remote set to "Minumum at night.

If you want to clean the screen, Phillips makes a nice LCD panel cleaner with a micro fiber cloth.
post #4706 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Just try and keep the back light below 40.


Why is that? I actually like a setting I found on this thread that has a setting of the backlight at 70 :{ a lot of setting I'm finding on here are a bit on the dark side.
post #4707 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

Why is that? I actually like a setting I found on this thread that has a setting of the backlight at 70 :{ a lot of setting I'm finding on here are a bit on the dark side.

The higher the back light setting, the more residual light so black levels will not be as good. Not sure what setting you found that had that high of a back light setting. Of course, if you have high ambient light level in the room, higher around 50 might be ok. Where did you find the setting you are referring to? Give a link to it and "I'll check it out.

Calibrated settings will be somewhat darker than what you see in stores. The Torch mode that you see in stores is not recommended for best viewing It may take some getting used to, but if you can be pateint and give it time, you will see it provides more accurate colors and depth to the picture. For occasional sports viewing during the day, or if using a game system, then perhaps one of the presets might be what you want. For more on that read the first 2 posts in the thread. Normally, you want an LCD TV to provide about 35 foot lamberts of light in an average to softly lit room. During the day, 50 foot lamberts is ok. This translates to about 30 to 35 at night and 40 to 45 for day. Also, make sure you have ALL secondary "picture enhancements" OFF or set to the values listed in the complete setting tables that are provided. Make sure gamma is set to 2.2, etc. You should also try using a bias light behind the TV at night, plus make sure no light is shinning directly on the TV screen or into your eyes from the sides also. Having a high back light settings will also shorten the life of the CCFL lamps and use more energy.
post #4708 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

The higher the back light setting, the more residual light so black levels will not be as good. Not sure what setting you found that had that high of a back light setting. Of course, if you have high ambient light level in the room, higher around 50 might be ok. Where did you find the setting you are referring to? Give a link to it and "I'll check it out.

This seems to be the setting I like most. I guess its a random person but those setting look best in my eyes.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post18810196

in case the like isn't working these are the setting:

I have the TV set to ISF Expert mode 1
Backlight: 70
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 40
Hor/Ver Sharpness: 50
Color: 60
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Medium

TruMotion: User
Judder: 0
Blur: 10

Advanced Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Noise & Dig. Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: High
Real Cinema: On (only will work on DVDs, not on Games)
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off
post #4709 of 5070
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

This seems to be the setting I like most. I guess its a random person but those setting look best in my eyes.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post18810196

in case the like isn't working these are the setting:

I have the TV set to ISF Expert mode 1
Backlight: 70
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 40
Hor/Ver Sharpness: 50
Color: 60
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Medium (This should be Warm for color accuracy)

TruMotion: User
Judder: 0
Blur: 10

Advanced Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Low (Medium would be better or OFF)
Noise & Dig. Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: High (Low is better. High destroys detail)
Real Cinema: On (only will work on DVDs, not on Games)Only for Blu-ray 24fps
Color Gamut: Standard (BT709 is the Industry setting)
Edge Enhancer: Off

You need to know that some of the settings in what you have interact with each other. This also is an education process for your eyes. . . not what you are used to at first, or seems to look good or "best". That's why you need to start with and intialize and FIRST turn off all the secondary enhancements , use the Warm setting, no Dynamic Contrast, black level to Low, etc.
I can see several issues. First, you have Dynamic Contrast set to LOW, which would explain why you need seem to have to raise back light so high. Dynamic Contrast destroys dark area detail unless it is off, or maybe Medium. Medium on these TVs actually has less adverse affect than Low. It is a measured fact. You should start from scratch, initialize the picture mode and turn off all secondary picture adjusts. Second, it would be better if you turned back light down, and brightness up. If you want to know about the "whys" for these adjustments here is a link:http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1029594


IF. . . after you initalize the TV, enter in ALL of one of the recommended settings I posted and you still want a brighter picture, then try back light up to no more than 50 and compensate with Brightness, Color, And Contrast. But one of these settings should be pretty close.

The settings you referenced have back light at 40 and Brightness at 75. Even those settings would not likely display an even gray scale pattern. Obviously it is your TV, But it would be best to Initialize the TV . . . in the main menu in each Picture settings and start form scratch. Using a hit and miss "looks good" isn't the best way to set up the TV. You might be very pleasantly surprised if you took some time to understand why using even a calibration disc will help. You can buy a Video Essentials DVD on Amazon for a few dollars and it has gray scale and basic adjusts. These TVs are not like ones from yesteryear. You really will get the most out of your TV and it will look it's best using more reasonable settings. And the back light will last longer. You seemed concerned about hours of use. If you leave the back light so high it really will age the TV prematurely.
post #4710 of 5070
Quote:
Originally Posted by shook187 View Post

This seems to be the setting I like most. I guess its a random person but those setting look best in my eyes.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post18810196

in case the like isn't working these are the setting:

I have the TV set to ISF Expert mode 1
Backlight: 70
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 40
Hor/Ver Sharpness: 50
Color: 60
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Medium

TruMotion: User
Judder: 0
Blur: 10

Advanced Controls
Dynamic Contrast: Low
Noise & Dig. Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: High
Real Cinema: On (only will work on DVDs, not on Games)
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off

Settings are a very personal matter but when you start to calibrate your set, you need to set your parameters (in either Expert Mode) and watch them for at least a week, under various lighting conditions and let your eyes adjust (or retrain). You can always switch back to the presets if you want but keep in mind the "quality" of the picture will depend on the source to a certain extent which can vary widely. You can have multiple settings setup to watch various sources until you see what you like (2 Expert modes and various presets) for each input. It is a slow educational process so take your time. It took me about 6-8 weeks to get my 47LD520 calibrated to where I wanted it for OTA and BD. A lot of the settings affect each other so it's not always a simple thing as making one change and "fixing" a perceived problem. I've had my LCD since January and I'm still learning things

Turn off all enhancements and start from there. I think a lot of them are unnecessary anyway and just add overhead to the picture processing. My basic Expert 2 settings are:

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan
Backlight: 48
Contrast: 93
Brightness: 53
H/V Sharpness: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Color Temp: Warm

The CMS and IREs are also calibrated.

Use the Energy Saving feature to increase/decrease the "brightness" of the picture during various times of the day or night. I would also strongly suggest the use of a bias light behind the tv for night time viewing. I don't know about you but I came from a CRT that was not calibrated other than fiddling with the brightness, contrast, and color setting (without knowing what they really did or meant) so it took me awhile to get used to a properly calibrated set so give yourself time.

Phase has, or will, post some cal settings for you to try and they are a great place to start. However, cal settings are not always transferable from set to set even within the same model line. What looks good on mine might not look good on yours. So, the best thing to do is try some settings, write them down, and let them go for a few days. You can always reset your tv to factory default if you get confused. Once you learn how they work, then try to calibrate at least the basics by yourself (contrast, brightness, sharpness, color, etc). You can do this by downloading the AVS HD709 calibration disk (it's free) with the docs and go for it. Brightness and contrast are the key to starting off a good cal. There are other disks available as well that will do a good job (WoW, DVE, etc).
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