It's been a LONG time since I've posted, my apologies.. I've been reading though through the AVS post notifications..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Ward216 
Here's a new HDMI HDBase-T Extender with IR and RS232 unit that tested amazingly well. It's from Asia and I don't yet know the mfg but here's a picture if you can find it online somewhere. Both the pcb and case are made very well with good attention to detail.

Ward, any update on this, its price/availability?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
LingAwards 
I'm running Keynote presentation from an iMac 27" Quad core with a mini displayport output.
I'm splitting the HDMI signal to two TVs and one projector. Since the computer negotiates with the slave to find the EDID, adding a 1x3 monoprice splitter makes it so the computer can't detect any monitor. The projector is 720p, the TVs are 1080p.
I've tried two inline solutions, neither have worked. The first was a DVI Doctor, which is supposed to pretend to be a single EDID device that you set up. The second was a Blackmagic Intensity Extreme, which would also not play with my computer.
I'm now looking at a KanexPro Mini Displayport to 2x HDMI unit. Other options might be to hook up to a A/V Receiver and put the splitter after this device, or if there are any TVs that have HDMI out (doubtful?). Perhaps converting to component video might be the choice to make?
I'm not sure of the exact procedure, but my understanding is that the lowest-common-denominator is used when going through a splitter. I don't know if the splitter handles that or if the source device handles that, or exactly what the procedure is. The EDID doctors that you describe should work fine to "fake out" the source to thinking a particular downstream device exists. It would need to be placed immediately after the source device (iMac in this case) to ensure nothing else is trying to get in the way of the EDID doctor to tell the iMac what to do.
At our church we went through some renovation and ended up with two Monoprice 1x4 HDMI over CatX distribution systems, and our iMac (2009-ish model) just flat out would NOT negotiate with anything.. (I think those 1x4's seem to negotiate with whoever is first in the chain, if they're on, but that's another discussion for another day) I ended up putting a Monoprice 4x1 switch between the iMac and the Monoprice distribution boxes and boom, everything works. It seems to me that the iMac doesn't properly negotiate with all downstream devices. Maybe it's a timing thing (adding a device immediately after the iMac versus a the TV having to route through a distribution box for its negotiation causing too much communication delay???), or maybe it just likes the Monoprice swtich and not the downstream TV's..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
akyramoto 
I then re-terminated the rj45 plugs on the cat5's. My boss had me install the RJ45EZ jacks the first time. The manufacturer for the balun (SnapAV HD-2CAT-1080P-130) recommends using the regular RJ45's as the EZ version can create crosstalk.
...
Be aware of individual instructions for each balun, almost everything we install is terminated to 568A, but this particular balun needs the RJ45's terminated to 568B.
Now this is very interesting. I'm not sure I know the difference between the RJ45 RJ45EZ connectors, and to be honest, I don't know what all my network cables are terminated with. Is there a clear way to determine visually if my connectors are RJ45 or RJ45EZ? That would be interesting..
Second, this thread at least seems to indicate that 568B is the most common (
with these video baluns at least)..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ericmn 
I picked up the Monoprice hdmi over cat5 4x4 matrix as well.
...
I started with the cheapest matrix switch out there with the plan of trading up if needed. I don't know if I'm keeping it yet. It seems to be unable to deal with HDCP content and blinks out frequently. Undecided on whether this is a showstopper.
A lot of people in this thread have had good luck with the Monoprice 4x4 MATRIX switches.. Unfortunately a lot fewer people are actually providing part or product numbers in this thread now, so if there are more than one "Monoprice 4x4 Switch," then we don't know who is using what.

Quote:
Originally Posted by
Colm 
Read
what Atlona has to say in the FAQ. They admit that the device will not even work with 10' of cable with some source devices, let alone 100'. Despite Atlona's attempt to put the blame on the manufacturers of the source equipment, the fault lies with manufacturer of the extender if they are stupid enough to power their device off the HDMI 5V line. The HDMI specification only requires source devices be able to supply 55 mA on the 5V line, primarily for hot plug detect. It isn't intended to power extenders.
Then would a simple
HDMI 5V Injector
work in such a situation? I actually have one that I thought was the problem in my original
Quote:
Originally Posted by
politby 
The extender is an NXG Technologies NX-HDEXT115 purchased at Amazon. It works perfectly when the signal is 50p or 60p. I would have thought 1080p60 would be harder to handle by the HDMI extender than 1080p24.
The projector behaves differently depending on the source when fed 24p material:
- PS3: Handshake with pre/pro results in 60p playback rather than 24p.
- HTPC: Handshake fails completely and the projector says "No signal". I have to power cycle both the projector and pre/pro in order for the projector to recover.
Can a low budget HDMI extender cause symptoms like this? I am thinking of ordering a new (returnable) HDbase-T extender to test with, I do not have a long enough HDMI cable anyway to test a direct connection.
Back up a step- in the bolded statement above; does the projector behave differently depending on the source material even when NO EXTENDER is being used? Extender interactions I think are NOT out of the question, but I think isolating source-based issues should start with removing everything else first..
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Derek Ouellet 
Result for both balun attempts:
Blu ray player menu appears. I can traverse the menu, launch apps, but when I go to play a blu ray disc, I get a "not supported" message that flashes in the corner of the screen. I also get a "not supported" message for the Wii input. A DVD successfully displayed, but the video quality seemed bad.
I also used a 50ft Cat 5e cable that I had to test the Accell balun to no avail.
Tests conducted to isolate problem:
1) Connect blu ray player directly to projector. RESULT = SUCCESS.
2) Connect blu ray player through receiver to projector. RESULT = SUCCESS
3) Connect blu ray player through receiver via 50ft Redmere cable to projector. RESULT = SUCCESS
Blu ray player and Wii all displayed as normal in these tests.
Seems like some kind of handshaking issue with the balun and the projector? Please offer any tips. I turned on the balun transmitter with the hdmi connected directly to the projector to try and sync them, but that didn't help resolve the issue.
Ugh.
I think handshaking problems can be introduced by the (wrong) HDMI-over-Cat5 adapters, yes. Unfortunately there is no magic bullet to isolate the problem; just good old fashioned troubleshooting skills are the best first step. The fact that your 50' redmere cable works and that your 50' cat5e cable with adapters does not is an indication that the adapters you're using or the cable (check termination styles, 568B? RJ45 or RJ45EZ?, etc) might be at fault. But more testing will be necessary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
StantonGuy 
Very informative, if long, thread, thanks to everyone for your input. Basic question, what wires HDMI or Cat 6 should I run to a bedroom? About 30' away.
I'm finishing up running structured wiring to a central hub to the top of what will be a media closet. I've got, I think, one more long run to go between the hub and bedroom upstairs which is 15' away, plus maybe 5' to go up in the closet and 10' from the wall to TV/receiver in my bedroom so at about 30' long not that far. With a lot still exposed from other renovations, it's almost like a new construction.
Simple answer--
If at all possible, run HDMI! I have heard good things about the Redmere cable from Monoprice, and user "Derek Ouellet" quoted directly above you seems to be having good success with it at 50' lengths! I wish it were available when I was doing my room in 2009! If HDMI is *not* possible, then this thread is here to help you (as best we can).

Quote:
Originally Posted by
NVNYC 
Great thread, Ty to all for sharing. Have been looking for an HDMI over cat6 that will support IR (of which there are many examples) and also ARC (which seems much less frequent). Apart from >$700 snapAV variants the only other one i've found is the "Sewell HDBaseT HDMI and IR over Single Cat 5 Extender 100M, 3D, HEC, ARC, and 4Kx2K" for $299 from amazon -
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079LSIDY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
(which if it works fine would be great although on receiving unit IR is built in directly so needs to be visible which isn't ideal). Has anyone had any experience with this (or another device that supports ARC?) Ultimate setup will be roughly 30' run of cat6 UTP, pioneer sc-1222-k on one end feeding from ps3, xbox360 etc into a Samsung D8000 other end. Any thoughts much appreciated.
It seems that 30' is no longer a problem for Redmere HDMI cables. Can that work for you? IR over Cat5e is no big deal and can be solved separately.. Does Redmere support ARC though? I don't know.. First things first though, is Redmere an option for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
AI Limited 
Double check me because it's been a while since I read this, but I thought that the Cox box used dual band IR which the Monoprice product didn't support. I would think that the picture would show up though, and it would just not be controllable via IR. Did you run a test setup with store-bought cat5e's over a short distance? Did you put a tester on both ends of your Cat5 to make sure it was terminated correctly? Did you use 568a or 568b? (either should work as they are both straight through cables, don't use a crossover cable).
Most CatX-HDMI baluns are recommending 568B termination. I *think* that there is a difference I think in the overall complex impedance of the pairings between 568A and 568B that may be at play here (and that may NOT be in play when used for Ethernet traffic???), but I honestly don't know, that's just a guess at this point..
cheers,
..dane
ps.- I've updated the first post as of today to reflect new reports submitted to this thread. Thank you all for your continued support!