Been away for 5 years - Need Advice for Marquee 9500

Hi Dertah, I would first off hook up the 9500LC to a PC and make sure its working properly before anything else. Check to make sure all geometry functions are working etc. a good cleaning of all contacts of boards, daughter boards, removable chips, and wiring harnesses
to and from all boards.

Also while doing this check the LC chambers bellows to make sure they are not sweating or leaking glycol. With the lenses off check the inside of the chamber for any fungus or crud growing inside, if so new glycol will be needed. and possibly new bellows as getting the chamber clean and removing the bellows usually destroys them. This might sound like I am trying to promote my bellows but its nearly impossible to remove them with out tearing them. Also the new material is much less prone to absorbing moisture from the air and wont sweat.

Once you are sure you have the 9500LC in tip top shape i would dump the leeza as it can not input 1080p@24. look into a radiance , curt palme has a special going on right now. If the radiance is too much money they might have some old stock HDQ's. But i have had both and the new radiance is really many steps up in performance.

To get HDMI from the new VP to your marquee get the new Moome VIM-HD card also sold at Curtpalme.com.

Also with look into useing Active area scaning for Blu Ray since most movies are 2.4 aspect.

more reading here on this:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=737385

Hope this helps

and where are you located so some one near by might offer a hand.

Athanasios

before you do anything check those bellows. I have an Accurate 9 here that leaked really badly, luckily it was on the ceiling when it took a dump. Despite that and the owner draining it before shipping I am still mopping up glycol and now suspect a shorted coil on the blue tube.
If you find any wetness around the lenses or mounting plates I would remove all 3 tubes immediately.

You should be OK, but yes, check everything they said above. Slightly corroded module connections are common sets that have been sitting, but I should have bled the bellows before I sent the set (I've been doing it for about 4 years once I found out about it), so check for sweating bellows visually), but other than that, fire the set up and see if you get the test patterns before you mount the unit. The test patterns will come up without any input signal.. but you already know that since you've had an 8110.

Run 110 volts, there's no advantage of 220. Figure on about an 8 amp draw at startup, and about 5 amps when running.

Hi dertah..welcome back!

I use a DVDO VP30's component side to drive my NEC 10pg. I have a Directv DVR, a HD DVD player and a PS3 providing signal via component to the 10PG via RGBHV and a panasonic RP82 modded for SDI feeding the SDI card in the VP30. I have a HDFury that I have doinked around with off and on and have not been able to make it work (not because of a lack of support from the mfgr, or an unwillingness for others to help...basically my setup works fine now, and I've been lazy.) The VP30 SDI card does not play nice with the HDfury. I want to keep the VP30 in the signal path because of its ability to do gamma adjustment. Also, I really like the PQ from the SDI modded Panny and it's paid for already. Would I go that route starting from scratch? No, but I ain't starting from scratch...nor are you.

If I recall correctly, the Leeza will transcode component to RGBHV? If so, you can do the same thing I do. Run everything via component to the Leeza and out to the PJ via RGBHV. All done.

component tot RGB transcoding is tough to do well and your source certainly won't be the cat's meow but for now the important thing is to get the machine ceiling mounted, hooked up, and watching movies.Upgrades and such are easily done down the road as funds allow or you simply get bored with the level of performance from your current set-up.

In Audio the biggest leap has been HDMI fed full studio quality uncompressed audio and 192Khz processing. The biggest bang for the buck out there is the new MAratnz series of receivers SR5004/6004. It's actually audiophile quality sound and power to spare for all 5 or 7 channels. Listened to this extensively at a friends and it blew away Rotel separates.

Dertah,

You are going to become seriously constrained with source material if you stay with the HD Leeza. You have a wonderful pj capable of full HD projection and sources that will reproduce fine standard def material. Your problem is going to be getting HD. Without HDMI sources and digital processing, eventually you will only get down rez material. And using HDMI sure cuts down on the mess and expense of the multiple source cables (video and audio) in the rack

I had my 5 BNC cable pulled several years ago and went with Gefen HDMI over CAT5. I've used both the HD Fury and Moome box for conversion to RGBHV at the projector, but the Moome VIM board would be the simplier solution. The Lumagen Radiance doesn't support SDI. The Lumagen HDQ does but doesn't have the wonderful CMS that is in the Radaince. And the Radiance can be used as both your audio and video switch and transcoder.

I have few regrets with 480i over HDMI rather than SDI, there are some nice universal players out there, particularly the Oppos, that get you great sd performance and lets you have HD too.

Good luck!

I agree with cooper, the HDQ though does have some CMS, ability to adjust 11 point greyscale and gamma and RGB gamut adjustments. and the ability to get active area scanning and use only the actual scanned area of a BD to your PJ is awesome. run it at 800p@72 hz for 2.4 blu ray and you will be amazed now that your not wasting Bandwidth on the black areas above and below the image.

Athanasios

Shoot me some pix of the 'goo'. Post here, or email them to me. Let's see whatcha got.

Hopefully it did not drip down onto the back plane!!! take off the front cover where the power supplies are. Look into the back , remove the power supplies' to see if any dripped down between them. Also remove the VIM and the CLM at the back of the PJ. Look to the back where they plug in and see if any goo is there. hopefully there is just that small amount.

Athanasios

simply unplug all the leads + high voltage wire for each tube. The HV wire twists out CCW. Remove the lenses and the top mounting plate + lead shield. Finally 2 bolts under the lens area hold each tube in. Pull them all out and wipe up and leaked fluid ASAP.
Here's the basic bellow replacement

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...=189967#189967

I can do it for you as well, $250. per tube includes new bellows, Glycol, stainless steel fill screws, and return shipping. If the anodize coating has failed add $50. per tube for black Epoxy paint to seal the corroded Alum. housing.

Glycol doesn't evaporate.. ever.. so the goop was something else.

It's time to pull the tubes out and bleed them, and see where the glycol has gone. the tubes come out really easily, so you can see the guts of the set:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Electrohome...e_Layout5.shtm

Bleed the excess pressure out of the tubes via the small hex head screws found on the top metal part of the tube housing. I use a small syringe to suction out some of the glycol so there's a small air bubble under the screws. Don't be alarmed if the glycol comes shooting out when you loosen the screw, that can happen depending on the pressure buildup in the tube.

The bellows may or may not need changing. Some 'seepage' is normal over time, it should be pretty obvious if the bellows are leaking significantly.

this is potentially a very bad thing. IF it has "gone to the back" it did so by crawling over the motherboard and back-plane. If so, both should be replaced.
I've even seen that stuff creep down into the power supply bay

Id still replace them if the PJ will run and or your willing to have it fixed. the new bellows I had manufactured do not sweat over time as quickly as the 99% silicon original ones do.

Athanasios

It looks like you may have gotten to the point where you have to decide how much money you want to invest in this pj. You are already doing it, but find out how much money you are going to have to spend to get it running. After which, you can start to add components like BR player, HDMI device, etc.

well the originals seemed to have lasted about 10 years. they're pretty much all shot now and I seem to get daily e-mails from people with leaky Marquee's.
Considering the new Ethelyne-Propelyne material is 90% lower vapor transmission than Silicone it should put the new bellows life-span at approx. 100 years

The test they did emulated time as a factor, I forgot how long dale told me the bellows would take to break down and it was long, maybe close to your estimate

Athanasios

Look at a 8500 with burned tubes. On local sites etc it can be found for a few bucks. Order new bellows from nashou and you should get it working for less then 500 dollar.

I purchased my ultra chassis for about 125

yes, the hardest thing will be getting it out of the socketed connectors if it's crawled in there



MCM electronics, it's called "CRT coolant" at 9 bucks a bottle. you will need 5 of them for 3 tubes

This sounds like the perfect advice to me. An 8500 without LC should be immune to the whole problem right?

Make sure it's running good and the port over the repaired and upgraded tubes from the 9500.

You should wind up with some spare parts out of the deal.

I think this is super advice.

Anyways,.. The last 5 years and moreover maybe the last 3 have been significant in terms of progress from other competing tech. CRT is my all time favorite but I use a digital pj now because it's just a lot more practical on many fronts.

I miss CRT though...I think it's the best that was and will be.

=Brian