The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 531

I'm using an older Xantech DL25 (Dinky Link) IR receiver, through a connecting block, into the jack on the back of 4311. Works great, up to about 20 feet away (which is as far away as I can get in the room).

Dezmond: If your 4311 is out in the open, you might want to try covering the IR receiver on the front of the AVR to see if that makes a difference. With prior AVRs I owned, I found that they could sometimes get confused when receiving IR from both the internal sensor and the remote input jack. (My 4311 is now in a closed cabinet, so I no longer have such issues.)

ran 6 ish position Audy XT32 today - and not sure the graphs look right

should it really be applying +10dB @ 16-20khz ? that can't be good can it ? I know my old Tannoys are "warm" sounding - and my Pioneer used to try and apply a dB or 2 to the top end - but this much ??

btw I believe the 3-4dB @ 2-4khz thats what I'd expect its the eq above 8khz I'm worried about

oh and on a 2nd point - my Denon is very noisey on turn on - quite a "rattle/vibration" as the transformer turns on (then silent - so not a fault I believe) -is this normal ?

Those graphs look fine to me. It's likely that your old "warm" speakers have a tweeter that rolls off approaching 20khz. Note that those are the FLAT graphs. How do the regular Audyssey graphs look up top?

And how does it SOUND?

Mark - I have really good hearing and besides the little pop when it turns on I don't hear a thing - but then I don't put my ear up to the receiver either. No different then the sound that comes from my SC-07 when it turns on.
If you really want to take full advantage of XT32 I would strongly recommend you measure all 8 positions - 6ish isn't going to give you the best results. You've been happy with how it sounds, but 8 measurements improve the soundfield even more.

thanks - the regular audyssey graphs are better at the topI do agree - it does sound good - perhaps a little bright

btw - the noise on turn on is just from the amp unit itself - not the speakers - its that noise like old CRTs turning on sound like -my old amp did it too- just the denon is particularly noisey - silent in operation though

^^^

kinda like that old skool "transistors turning on" sound?

yeah - but big style doesn't bother me too much - its just surprsingly noisey

Mine makes a nice smooth click sound as opposed to my SC-05, which made a LOUD click and would always shut off a can light by my front door.

I've noticed it too. As long as the AVR isn't exploding I don't think I care. But it might make a good wake up call if you're half awake and standing by the speakers

Mine does the same thing. It does have a bit of a resonance to that last a 1/3rd of a second or so in addition to the sound of a relay clicking.

yup... mine too.... although not as loud as when the bryston i had fired up, that sounded like one of those old tv sets...

it makes a different sound if i have it off and my wife fires up zone 2 from downstairs... "smaller"...

There are a few of us that have issues with HDMI signals that passed through fine with a previous AVR. Seems it's either more picky, or there's just a few 4311s out there with weaker signals.

Interesting. Has anyone tried an inline HDMI booster for long runs? Curious if it helps.

Darin,

Just looked at your Sub Project - Awesome!!!

Mine isn't a long run, just 6' to a mechanical HDMI switch, then another 6' to the display. Bypassing the switch solved it for me, but the switch was no problem with my previous AVR.

Thanks for the kind words on the sub project, however that page is pretty out of date. I've completely rebuilt it with four drivers/amps, but never got around to updating the page. I'm kind of lazy that way.

^^^

just out of curiosity, are those who are running into hdmi glitches also using the video processor in the avr?

on the surface, it shouldn't matter, but trying to see if there's any consistency here...

I have it in a cabinet now. I have been using a xantech 780p receiever with a old 12v power supply that I rigged to work. The only problem is I have to have the remote less then a foot from the sensor. I am looking for the easiest and cheapest way to just extend the ir sensor to a adjacent room .


http://s1145.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0818.jpg

the boost at the high end for the FL & FR you're referring to could be problematic if:

1) you listen to music with a lot of energy in that half octave...AND
2) the combination of your speaker's impedance magnitude and phase angle across that band requires excessive current...AND
3) the efficiency of your speakers across that band combined with the output capability of the 4311 pushes it up against its limits

BTW, on the good side of the ledger it looks like your front speakers and room are supporting bass response down to 20 Hz and that Audyssey is notching out some huge room modes in the lower bass. It appears you have them set to Large.

On the noise you're hearing that's the inrush current in the transformer causing flex of the core. Nothing to worry about....just means Maxwell's equations are working.

A few questions to help troubleshoot:

-Does the "one foot" issue with the Xantech sensor occur when its output is run to ANY device, or only to the 4311? If it's the same to any device, it could be that you need a new Xantech sensor.

-Is your remote outputting a good IR signal? Assuming that the batteries in the remote have been verified or replaced, if you just point the remote at the 4311, does it have to be a foot away, or does it work from longer distance? If you use the Zone remote (sub remote) for the 4311 or any other remote, does it have to be less than a foot from the Xantech sensor?

-Have you verified that your "rigged" 12 volt power supply is actually putting out 12 volts?

-Have your verified that the IR sensor and connecting block are correctly wired?

Hi russ. I'll preface my thoughts on your interesting comments by saying I am pretty cautious in interpreting the crude Audyssey graphs in the AVR. If someone wants to know what's really going on in the room, one is well advised to properly use a real measuring system such as OmniMic or REW.

Whether you have the fronts set to large or small does not change this graph, which roughly represents in graphic EQ form the FR boost or cut needed to bring the speaker's response in the room to the chosen Flat curve, measured as though it were full band no sub. IRT the high end boost, it has already been pointed out that this particular graph is the Flat curve representation. That particular target curve does not have the HF roll-off of the reference "Audyssey" (Standard) curve. The latter is what is normally recommended for all of us as it is more appropriate for HT sized rooms which have a lot of reflected HF energy. Flat will usually sound too bright, and IME kinda harsh. The OP has confirmed that the Audyssey curve does not show this degree of HF boost and as he should routinely use the std curve he will be just fine. IMO even should he chose Flat to brighten up some poor music recording, I really wouldn't worry about the tweets simply based on these graphs alone. If he cranked it up and heard distortion from the tweets that would be another matter. Additionally, again based on these graphs alone, IMO he's in no danger of stressing the amps with this HF boost since there's so little amp power needed to drive the tweets anyway.

As to the low end, these AVR graphs tell us precious little that's useful. The displayed FR peak around 60-80 from the fronts may be far worse-or may not even exist when actually listening (even without any EQ applied at all!), as each peak was measured with only that speaker firing, not accounting for the interaction of the two fronts with the room nor accounting for the interaction of the sub (s) with the fronts, or accounting for the chosen xover.

Correcting the combined in-room response of the subs is an area where XT32 really works well to smooth the bass. And with Audyssey Pro, particular attention is paid to optimizing the splice between sub(s) by chosing the optimal xover, and the filter points are customized for that particular xover.

I will take the occasion to reinforce the old saw that using proper bass management by setting the fronts (in fact, ALL speakers) to Small with a xover of 80 will ease fears of over-stressing the speakers and the AVR amps irt the low freqs which are far, far more demanding than the hi freqs.

I am, but not on all sources. Now that I have the switch bypassed, I don't remember if the problem followed whether or not the the video processing was turned on. But I do remember it being bandwidth related. If I didn't upscale 720p or 1080i content to 1080p, it was fine. But native 1080p or content scaled up to 1080p had issues.

^^^

thanks for the data point darin...

the fact that the issue tracked along with bandwidth makes sense...

I tried searching AVS Forum but couldn't find any specific answers. If I'm bringing up a settled issue I apologize and would appreciate a pointer to the correct posts.

Starting a little over a month ago my AVR-A-100 started freezing up after using Airplay and switching to another input. It doesn't happen consistently and doesn't appear to have anything to do with the input I switch to.

When the set locks up it continues passing through the input to the TV via HDMI but nothing works either from the remote or the front panel. I can't adjust volume, switch inputs, or even turn the unit off. The only solution I've found is to unplug the Denon for 30 seconds or so and then plug it back in. On occasion I've had to do this twice and when I plug it back in the power-up state is on, and the unit starts working again.

There have been some recent updates to Mac Lion and iTunes but nothing I recall on the Denon side.

Any suggestions or guidance as to solving this problem will be appreciated! It's getting really irritating walking behind the equipment shelves and finding the plug.

Thanks.

Rick

Rick,

Strange issue, I have not had that problem. Have you tried a microprocessor re-set? You might want to. You'll have to re-do your Audyssey setup and other setup options unless you save it to a computer.

iuiuweh

Well... Recently friend brought to me for comparisson his newly bought Hegel HD11 DAC with my AVR-4311.
System and connections during listening "session":
A)My desktop PC with ASUS P5Q-E mothebord with SPDIF (COAX)->Foobar2000 (latest version with ASIO4All plugin latest version in Win 7 Professonial 64 bit enviroment)->AVR-4311.
B) Denon AVR-4311 with network connection to PC through DNLA software Serviio.
C) DAC Hegel HD11 through asynchronous USB (Nordost Bluheaven USB cable) to my PC-> Foobar2000 (ksHegel plugin)->Analogue Nordost Dreamcast cable->AVR-4311.
Speakers: Monitor Audio RX1.

Round 1. Hegel HD11 through USB vs coax in PC. Difference day and night. Hegel beated PC with SPDIF (Coax) easily. PC through SPDIF (Coax) sounded if I would be listening through some "layers of pillows" in my ears.
Round 2. Hegel HD11 through USB vs DNLA in AVR-4311 listening of the same FLAC files. Now I am not so sure which solution better - both have pleasing moments. It seems, that generally Hegel does everything just a little bit better: space, dynamics, 3D efect and so on. But we speak about standalone DAC of 1200 USD price range. AVR-4311 through DNLA is really, really good and was quite close to Hegel HD11. Another confirmation for me how good is my AVR-4311. And I even started to doubt if AVR-4311 reveals its full capabilities with my present speakers.

Based on my above subjective oppinion, I think , introducing Dacmagic/Dacmagic Plus in to system would be downgrade rather than upgrade for stereo listening.

^^^

obviously, the hegel requires better cables, as there no way that something that expensive could be come close to by such a pedestrian piece as the 4311...

Expecting my 4311 from Electronics Expo this week. Finally dove in after months of reading this thread. Thanks for all the info.

One question: What boom microphone stand are you guys using when you run audyssey?

Thanks

^^^

hmm... who found the cheapest boom/adaptor combo? i remember someone posted one that was dirt cheap that will do the job... i just have forgotten where...

Don't know if this boom stand is the cheapest, but I believe it's the same model included with the Audyssey Pro kit.