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The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 532

post #15931 of 21934
3/15/12 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by holt7153 View Post

Don't know if this boom stand is the cheapest, but I believe it's the same model included with the Audyssey Pro kit.

It certainly looks like it and for this purpose is better than the various On-Stage choices.
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post #15932 of 21934
3/15/12 at 1:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcetomLT View Post

... Another confirmation for me how good is my AVR-4311. And I even started to doubt if AVR-4311 reveals its full capabilities with my present speakers...

You have the Monitor Audio RX1 which are regarded by some to be a decent speaker and a good value (value=better SQ than the MSRP implies) in the realm of fairly inexpensive (for HiFi/HT hobbyists, not Joe 6 pack) small bookshelf speakers. You would undoubtedly reap considerable sonic benefit by throwing a coupla thou at some carefully chosen speakers. One can spend roughly 2-3X the MSRP of the typical AVR on speakers for a reasonable "match". And the 4311 is no typical AVR! Sorry if you get upgradosis by reading this. I'm a known carrier.
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post #15933 of 21934
3/15/12 at 1:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by holt7153 View Post

Don't know if this boom stand is the cheapest, but I believe it's the same model included with the Audyssey Pro kit.

Thanks. I bought that one and also the Onstage CM01 adapter.
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post #15934 of 21934
3/15/12 at 1:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davecraze View Post

Thanks. I bought that one and also the Onstage CM01 adapter.

No problem-I'm about to do the same.
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post #15935 of 21934
3/15/12 at 2:42pm
OK - One or two subs?

Just picked up a used SVS PC-12 Ultra. I also have my "original" Mirage BPS-150i (specs at http://www.miragespeakers.com/images/download/372.aspx).

Would the Mirage degrade my audio? How would Audyssey handle the Mirage sub?

Thanks!
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post #15936 of 21934
3/15/12 at 3:19pm
in this case, I think it's safe to say that a SVS Ultra will crush the Mirage. Although the Mirage is no pansy it's only got dual 8" woofers, albeit it's heavy (65lb) with a powerful amp and claims response down to 20Hz.

I still think you can benefit from using both, but you probably want the SVS doing the heavy lifting, because if you drive the system hard the Mirage will crap out before the SVS does. So I think, perfect world, you would place the SVS in a corner (or further away) for biggest bass output, and then place the Mirage somewhere more nearfield so it can help smooth out some modes without working as hard. Audyssey will calibrate the distance/level on both so they play 75dB at mic position #1, but hopefully it will require less gain on the Mirage (because of the nearfield placement).

If you had some measurement capability you could probably dial in a pretty nice response by placing the SVS first for max output, and then moving the Mirage around to a few nearfield locations and measure which one provides the flattest response *before* running Audyssey.
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post #15937 of 21934
3/15/12 at 3:37pm
Of course 2 identical subs (bigger, better, more expensive like the SVS) would be better than an odd couple, as they will be EQ'd together by XT32, but I think you will be able to use your old sub to advantage. Based on my quick minimal research (as you provided no specs or links) I will assume the Mirage is a halfway decent sub, as it cost $1K and is fairly well reviewed in that category. I have no idea how its twin woofers in Bipolar config may figure into this. This sub matters mostly because it will be the weaker link in terms of SQ, LF extension and basically overall bass performance.

Although these two subs can likely "fill" a larger space than either alone, IMO the most valuable advantage of 2 subs is to improve overall bass quality by using careful placement of each sub to smooth the combined sub's FR in interaction with the room. If you have a measuring system like OmniMic or REW you can get actual measurements to guide your decision and your sub(s) placement. I have described this "measured sub haul" technique elsewhere.

edit-I hadn't seen his post, but I find batpig's suggestions on placement intriguing.
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post #15938 of 21934
3/15/12 at 3:48pm
Thank you, gentlemen!
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post #15939 of 21934
3/15/12 at 5:51pm
whats the general viewpoint on the impedance switch please ? Is it a current/power limiter ? or does setting it to 6 or 4 ohms make the amp more sensitive to going into shutdown ?

My front 3 Tannoys are 6 ohms, the other 4 speakers 8 ohms

on previous AV amps like my Arcam - I've used the 8 rather than 4 ohm switch as not bothered by the extra heat etc - but is that advisable on the Denon (is the power amp stage robust enough ?)

I'm crossing over at 60hz on all 7 speakers anyway - so perhaps impedance isn't as bad anyway

any ideas please ?
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post #15940 of 21934
3/15/12 at 6:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by IcetomLT View Post

Well... Recently friend brought to me for comparisson his newly bought Hegel HD11 DAC with my AVR-4311.
System and connections during listening "session":
A)My desktop PC with ASUS P5Q-E mothebord with SPDIF (COAX)->Foobar2000 (latest version with ASIO4All plugin latest version in Win 7 Professonial 64 bit enviroment)->AVR-4311.
B) Denon AVR-4311 with network connection to PC through DNLA software Serviio.
C) DAC Hegel HD11 through asynchronous USB (Nordost Bluheaven USB cable) to my PC-> Foobar2000 (ksHegel plugin)->Analogue Nordost Dreamcast cable->AVR-4311.
Speakers: Monitor Audio RX1.

Round 1. Hegel HD11 through USB vs coax in PC. Difference day and night. Hegel beated PC with SPDIF (Coax) easily. PC through SPDIF (Coax) sounded if I would be listening through some "layers of pillows" in my ears.
Round 2. Hegel HD11 through USB vs DNLA in AVR-4311 listening of the same FLAC files. Now I am not so sure which solution better - both have pleasing moments. It seems, that generally Hegel does everything just a little bit better: space, dynamics, 3D efect and so on. But we speak about standalone DAC of 1200 USD price range. AVR-4311 through DNLA is really, really good and was quite close to Hegel HD11. Another confirmation for me how good is my AVR-4311. And I even started to doubt if AVR-4311 reveals its full capabilities with my present speakers.

Based on my above subjective oppinion, I think , introducing Dacmagic/Dacmagic Plus in to system would be downgrade rather than upgrade for stereo listening.

In the case of the PC direct vs PC & DNLA if you are sending bit perfect digital signal to the 4311 in both cases with the 4311's DACs being used for conversion why would one sound so much worse -I would think they should sound the same
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post #15941 of 21934
3/15/12 at 6:18pm
@mark...

yup, leave it on 8...
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post #15942 of 21934
3/15/12 at 7:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by markabuckley View Post

whats the general viewpoint on the impedance switch please ? Is it a current/power limiter ? or does setting it to 6 or 4 ohms make the amp more sensitive to going into shutdown ?

My front 3 Tannoys are 6 ohms, the other 4 speakers 8 ohms

on previous AV amps like my Arcam - I've used the 8 rather than 4 ohm switch as not bothered by the extra heat etc - but is that advisable on the Denon (is the power amp stage robust enough ?)

I'm crossing over at 60hz on all 7 speakers anyway - so perhaps impedance isn't as bad anyway

any ideas please ?

Leave it on 8 unless your AVR starts self protecting.
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post #15943 of 21934
3/15/12 at 7:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightbox View Post
A few questions to help troubleshoot:

-Does the "one foot" issue with the Xantech sensor occur when its output is run to ANY device, or only to the 4311? If it's the same to any device, it could be that you need a new Xantech sensor.

-Is your remote outputting a good IR signal? Assuming that the batteries in the remote have been verified or replaced, if you just point the remote at the 4311, does it have to be a foot away, or does it work from longer distance? If you use the Zone remote (sub remote) for the 4311 or any other remote, does it have to be less than a foot from the Xantech sensor?

-Have you verified that your "rigged" 12 volt power supply is actually putting out 12 volts?

-Have your verified that the IR sensor and connecting block are correctly wired?

Thanks for the response, I am not using a connecting block. The 780p receiever has 4 sets of wire screws. +12v, grnd , grnd, ir input . I am using a mono cable from the 4311 , one wire to ir input and the other to grnd. The power supply is connected to the +12v and ground. I even tried a 9 volt dc supply with the same results. I was also trying to get a windows media ir sensor to work, but no luck.
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post #15944 of 21934
3/15/12 at 9:23pm
Guys, I have a 3808 that suffers from HDMI dropout (video goes black). I have not found a workaround. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 4311 but ask: is this model plagued with the same issue? Someone please chime in, I'd really like to get this unit!
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post #15945 of 21934
3/15/12 at 9:28pm
Go ahead and get it...
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post #15946 of 21934
3/15/12 at 9:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by guillermorb73 View Post

Guys, I have a 3808 that suffers from HDMI dropout (video goes black). I have not found a workaround. I'm wanting to upgrade to the 4311 but ask: is this model plagued with the same issue? Someone please chime in, I'd really like to get this unit!

Does this happen with all sources (HDMI board failure) or with a single source (defective cable) as the former is not a known issue with the 4311CI?
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post #15947 of 21934
3/15/12 at 9:57pm
I am planning to use four inwall subwoofers with my 4311 - two on each channel of a Crown XLS 2000 Drivecore. My room is rather small at 1900 cubic feet and fuly enclosed. Planning to to put them either in all four corners or in the ceiling at the 1/4 distance from each corner.

I assume that XT32 will ping each sub channel (and thus each pair of subs) individually then ping both channels (all four subs) together?

Thanks for any clarification.
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post #15948 of 21934
3/15/12 at 9:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post


Does this happen with all sources (HDMI board failure) or with a single source (defective cable) as the former is not a known issue with the 4311CI?

Happens (dropout) with Directv & even when the GUI menu is on the screen, just loses signal for about 2-3 seconds then comes back on, only to do it again a little while later during programming. It also does this on both my Panasonic and Pioneer displays. Does NOT do this when playing a Blu-ray through my Denon transport. So I take it everyone's 4311 is rock solid in this dept? If I upgrade to the new unit what should I do with the 3808 any ideas?
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post #15949 of 21934
3/15/12 at 10:58pm
Do you have video scaling enabled? If you do try disabling that. I never had problems w/3808 & DirecTV but have had it happen once or twice w/ my A100.
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post #15950 of 21934
3/16/12 at 1:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

@mark...

yup, leave it on 8...


ccotenj and rus_777 - thankyou very much for the reply - will change back to 8

I've one last query for people on here please - my 4311 seems to "forget" the last surround sound mode it should be on - I thought I'd set the menu settings to remember last - but I wasn't so sure on the auto-detect setting

for instance - TIVO box - stereo output - we set to PLIIx C

HTPC - bitstream input

switch between the 2 and the TIVO box stays at PLIIx C - periodically though - on turn on of the Denon - the Denon seems to revert back to Stereo - which is rather annoying - any idea please ?
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post #15951 of 21934
3/16/12 at 4:40am
^^
If you're using a button to turn on the AVR/select a source, then you'll need to rememorize that button after making the surround mode change by pressing/holding the button for a few seconds until the display reads "Memorize".
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post #15952 of 21934
3/16/12 at 4:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davecraze View Post

I am planning to use four inwall subwoofers with my 4311 - two on each channel of a Crown XLS 2000 Drivecore. My room is rather small at 1900 cubic feet and fuly enclosed. Planning to to put them either in all four corners or in the ceiling at the 1/4 distance from each corner.

I assume that XT32 will ping each sub channel (and thus each pair of subs) individually then ping both channels (all four subs) together?

Thanks for any clarification.

Correct, although you may want to initially ping each sub separately to level match each one.
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post #15953 of 21934
3/16/12 at 4:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by guillermorb73 View Post

Happens (dropout) with Directv & even when the GUI menu is on the screen, just loses signal for about 2-3 seconds then comes back on, only to do it again a little while later during programming. It also does this on both my Panasonic and Pioneer displays. Does NOT do this when playing a Blu-ray through my Denon transport. So I take it everyone's 4311 is rock solid in this dept? If I upgrade to the new unit what should I do with the 3808 any ideas?

What you are describing is an HDMI handshake issue which is common with some cable boxes and AVRs, although depends on the TV as well. This may or may not occur with the 4311CI, although the work around is to connect cable box HDMI directly to the TV with optical audio from the box to the AVR. The 3808CI could be used to power another zone or expand to 11.2.
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post #15954 of 21934
3/16/12 at 5:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by russ_777 View Post

Leave it on 8 unless your AVR starts self protecting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markabuckley View Post

ccotenj and rus_777 - thankyou very much for the reply - will change back to 8

yup, that's the ticket... and as you note, since you are crossing to a sub, you are taking a pretty decent load off of the avr...

if you do put it into protection when set to 8, lowering it to 6/4 really won't help... since all you are doing is limiting current without changing the load, it won't produce satisfactory results (and it will go into protection eventually anyway)... unfortunately, there's no way to make the power supply more robust by flipping a switch...

the only real option* if going into protection with it set to 8 ohms is unloading some of the work to an external amplifier...

* the other option is "turning the volume control to the left", but that is unlikely to be satisfactory... if the user wasn't already turning it to the right to get the spl desired, they wouldn't be having a problem...
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post #15955 of 21934
3/16/12 at 6:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezmond View Post

Thanks for the response, I am not using a connecting block. The 780p receiever has 4 sets of wire screws. +12v, grnd , grnd, ir input . I am using a mono cable from the 4311 , one wire to ir input and the other to grnd. The power supply is connected to the +12v and ground. I even tried a 9 volt dc supply with the same results. I was also trying to get a windows media ir sensor to work, but no luck.

I think I found the issue, as described in this application note from Xantech:

"The 780P/291P and PMS12 were developed to repeat the very high frequency 1.125 MHz IR carrier of the newer Pioneer ISC (GUI) receivers. In order to have high noise immunity, they were designed to pass only this high frequency carrier. Consequently, they will not pass IR carriers from any remote control system that is lower (or higher) in frequency!"

Similarly, the Amazon description for the Xantech 780p, states:
"The Xantech 780P is a single frequency (1.125 MHz) infrared (IR) receiver designed specifically for Pioneer A/V receivers and televisions... Will NOT Pass Lower Frequency IR Remote Controls"

Looks like you need to use a different IR sensor.
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post #15956 of 21934
3/16/12 at 7:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post


What you are describing is an HDMI handshake issue which is common with some cable boxes and AVRs, although depends on the TV as well. This may or may not occur with the 4311CI, although the work around is to connect cable box HDMI directly to the TV with optical audio from the box to the AVR. The 3808CI could be used to power another zone or expand to 11.2.

Thanks, I've done this and it works. However just using the the menu causes this hiccup as well. Is the 4311 prone to this or have there been sufficient improvements. I'd like to take advantage of an Eggy price. Guys please opine...
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post #15957 of 21934
3/16/12 at 7:16am
^^^

basically you are describing normal behaviour for every avr connected via hdmi...

whenever you make a change in resolution, certain menu settings, etc., the handshake is broken and must be re-established... this will cause the "video drop" that you are seeing...

it is what it is... ime, the 4311 actually handles handshaking relatively quickly compared to previous avrs/pre-pros i've had, although that is also dependent upon the source and sink being used with it...
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post #15958 of 21934
3/16/12 at 7:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by guillermorb73 View Post

Thanks, I've done this and it works. However just using the the menu causes this hiccup as well. Is the 4311 prone to this or have there been sufficient improvements. I'd like to take advantage of an Eggy price. Guys please opine...

Keep in mind that "Eggy" is not an authorized Denon reseller, so get one of the "authorized" resellers to match "Eggy's" price instead (eg. Electronics Expo, J&R, ABT, etc.).
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post #15959 of 21934
3/16/12 at 7:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by guillermorb73 View Post


Thanks, I've done this and it works. However just using the the menu causes this hiccup as well. Is the 4311 prone to this or have there been sufficient improvements. I'd like to take advantage of an Eggy price. Guys please opine...

You want the three year warranty. Give Electronics Expo a call, they are an authorized dealer. Denon is pretty picky about that for warranty coverage.
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post #15960 of 21934
3/16/12 at 8:46am
Contemplating upgrading my 4310 --> 4311 With the 4310 one can choose between Sirius or the XM accessory for satellite radio. I see no mention or input for the XM option on the 4311. Is Sirius the only option for the 4311? As you can decipher I have the XM Direct device (model# XHD2H1)
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK]