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The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 561

post #16801 of 21934
4/26/12 at 7:28am
Hi everyone, I bought my unit from Electronic Expo, shipped to Canada. Will denon honor the warranty or do I have to always ship it back to the US for service?

Thanks for your reply,
B
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post #16802 of 21934
4/26/12 at 7:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBDan View Post

Hey guys I need some help.

I've had my 4311 for about a month and now I am experiencing an issue.

Last night I noticed that when I adjusted my volume I couldn't see it on the screen. So I went into the menu and verified that video convert was on and it was. So I turned it off and back on again and it did the video overlay including the volume like it's supposed to. A little bit later, I changed channels and I noticed that I had the same issue I had before so I went into the menu which caused the whole screen go black because the video overlay wasn't working and turned it off and back on again.

Anyway, so I started to dig around and I did notice that my DirecTV DVR did receive an update at 2 AM yesterday morning which I think may have caused this issue.

My question to you guys is there anybody out there with a DirecTV DVR hooked up via HDMI to their 4311 that is experiencing this issue?

Dan

I've had this problem ever since installing a DTV HR34. I am however
using a Radiance XD video processor. I haven't tried turning it off
however turning the 4311 off and on will correct it until I do something
else.
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post #16803 of 21934
4/26/12 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfattbill View Post

That sucks. How good was the price?

It was under a grand; close to the recent Vann's pricing error...
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post #16804 of 21934
4/26/12 at 9:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahull View Post


I've had this problem ever since installing a DTV HR34. I am however
using a Radiance XD video processor. I haven't tried turning it off
however turning the 4311 off and on will correct it until I do something
else.

+1 re simply turning the 4311 off/on. Happens very rarely to me FWIW with my HR24 so I have no clue what triggers it.

James
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post #16805 of 21934
4/26/12 at 11:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post


+1 re simply turning the 4311 off/on. Happens very rarely to me FWIW with my HR24 so I have no clue what triggers it.

James

I am glad that other people have this issue and my 4311 is not defective.

I noticed this morning while watching tv with the 4311 off in pass-thru mode. The screen goes black for just a second or 2 and then comes back and that is what I have noticed that triggers the problem when using the 4311.

I did not have this issue until the software upgrade a couple of days ago. Did you?

Anyone else experience this problem and have a possible solution?

FYI -I did reset the DVR and unplug the 4311 for 10 mins and it did not help.
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post #16806 of 21934
4/26/12 at 12:36pm
I have not experienced any overlay issues with my with my HR22 that I have running through the the 4311, but if this is a recent issue due to an upgrade to the DVR, I may have not noticed it yet as I don't watch a lot of TV with the Denon in that room (mostly movies and music) and when my wife watches TV in there, she doesn't even turn the 4311 on.

I have on the other hand noticed a lot of the "going black for a second or two" full dropouts on my HR20 lately in our main TV watching room. I was just dismissing it as another HDMI handshake issue with my cat5 extenders but now that you mention it, is has been happening fairly frequently as of late.
There is no AVR in the chain with this DVR, so if this is the same dropout issue you are having, then it's not a Denon issue.
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post #16807 of 21934
4/26/12 at 2:59pm
I have 2 HR24's connected to the 4311, both running software version 0x59e, and have never experienced overlay issues.
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post #16808 of 21934
4/26/12 at 5:17pm
My new 4311 arrived today. I have no speakers though. Do you think it will sound better with an external amp?

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post #16809 of 21934
4/26/12 at 5:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post

My new 4311 arrived today. I have no speakers though. Do you think it will sound better with an external amp?


I think I'd spend the money on speakers instead .
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post #16810 of 21934
4/26/12 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post


I think I'd spend the money on speakers instead .

Funny of the day!! I was thinking the same thing.
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post #16811 of 21934
4/26/12 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nethawk View Post

My new 4311 arrived today. I have no speakers though. Do you think it will sound better with an external amp?


That's a pretty wide open question. It depends on what you are considering for an external amp. Let us know.
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post #16812 of 21934
4/26/12 at 5:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdit View Post

Hi everyone, I bought my unit from Electronic Expo, shipped to Canada. Will denon honor the warranty or do I have to always ship it back to the US for service?

Thanks for your reply,
B

Denon USA will honor the warranty so you would have to ship it back to the USA. However, AFAIK, Square Trade will honor the warranty in Canada so give them a call to confirm and purchase one of their "date of purchase" warranties.
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post #16813 of 21934
4/26/12 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post


That's a pretty wide open question. It depends on what you are considering for an external amp. Let us know.

Sorry, I was being totally silly. If I'd posted this in a new thread I'm betting I would have received all sorts of responses, even without the speakers.

Speakers should be finished in a couple of weeks. I'm going to try and get by without an amp, at least for awhile. I don't have a display either, waiting for the 65" xx50s from Panasonic. Then I need a new sub or four... In short, I'm flat broke
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post #16814 of 21934
4/26/12 at 7:25pm
I heard a funny joke today.

"Panasonic is very reliable, it gives you a long time to enjoy a mediocre picture"

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post #16815 of 21934
4/26/12 at 7:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Yea, running thick HDMI cables through walls and conduit are not the most fun things to do. When I was looking into my wiring all I could find were active Cat5 HDMI extenders that required DC power on each end. That would have required additional wiring for power. I see passive units are much more readily available now though.

I'm using the powered "binary" ones from Snap AV and they have been going strong for 6 months with not a single issue or squiggly line..
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post #16816 of 21934
4/26/12 at 8:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

I have 2 HR24's connected to the 4311, both running software version 0x59e, and have never experienced overlay issues.

My HR24 was upgraded to 0x5c8 on 4/24 and then the problems started. They just started to roll this update out. Please let me know if you start experiencing this issue after your upgrade.

Thanks
Dan
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post #16817 of 21934
4/27/12 at 4:46am
First post on this thread, nearly finished reading it.
Looking forward to getting one of these.
Just wanted to let you guys know
The Denon Remote app is updated to 3.0 on iOS

Lots of new features
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post #16818 of 21934
4/27/12 at 5:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

First off, I agree with the other responses that it's probably not worth considering this, but...

The whole point of getting a dedicated stereo preamp would be to take the "weak" link in the chain (which would presumably be the 4311CI) out of the loop. So how it would be wired up is:

1) Connect the front left/right preamp outputs on the 4311CI to the bypass input on the 2 channel preamp. Preamps that are designed for this purpose will either have a dedicated bypass input or a switch to put the preamp into bypass mode. Bypass basically disables the volume control and other settings on the preamp turning it into a passthrough device.

2) Connect the left/right outputs on the 2 channel preamp to external amplification and then connect your front left/right speakers to the outputs on the external amp(s).

3) Connect the rest of your speakers to the appropriate speaker outputs on the 4311CI (or use the preamp outputs for those speakers on the 4311CI to additional external amplification).

4) Connect your best analog sources (phono preamp outputs, the dedicated 2 channel outputs on an Oppo BDP-95, etc.) to inputs on the 2 channel preamp.

When you want to listen to sources on the the 4311CI, you set the 2 channel preamp to the bypass input and pretend it isn't there. So volume control, input source selection, etc. would all happen on the 4311CI.

When you want the "best" sound (we'll ignore the benefits of Audyssey for this discussion ) for your 2 channel audio, you would select the appropriate input on the 2 channel preamp and the 4311CI can be turned off.

Unless you have really high end speakers, excellent amplification, and a room with excellent acoustics, it really isn't worth even thinking about this as the money you would need to spend to get a 2 channel preamp that's enough better than the 4311CI would be better spent on room treatments, better speakers, more music / movies, etc.


Thanks for this most excellent response, and especially thanks for the final paragraph. At this point, I am thinking about getting either SalkSounds or Selah Line Arrays for my speakers, and a relatively nice amplifier to drive them. But... If you consider those to be in the really high end, I would still need to deal with room treatments.

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post #16819 of 21934
4/27/12 at 8:46am
How can I find out how much power the 4311 needs? I am redoing the mancave and rewiring. Just need to know how many circuits to send that way.
TIA, Tom
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post #16820 of 21934
4/27/12 at 8:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomagardner View Post

How can I find out how much power the 4311 needs? I am redoing the mancave and rewiring. Just need to know how many circuits to send that way.
TIA, Tom

It would depend on how efficient your speakers are, what you're listening to, etc.

Go with a dual 20amp circuit, and you should be fine for all gear you can fit in a single equipment rack. Subs need their own, of course.
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post #16821 of 21934
4/27/12 at 8:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomagardner View Post

How can I find out how much power the 4311 needs? I am redoing the mancave and rewiring. Just need to know how many circuits to send that way.
TIA, Tom

Tom.. I would dedicate a separate 20amp for my AVR and another 20 amp for the subs...

Then another for your source equipment and another for your display... if you can, of course...
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post #16822 of 21934
4/27/12 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomagardner View Post

How can I find out how much power the 4311 needs? I am redoing the mancave and rewiring. Just need to know how many circuits to send that way.
TIA, Tom

That all depends on what else you have. Add up the wattage of all your devices and divide that by 120. That will give you the amperage you will need.The 4311 will draw 780W/120V = 6.5A
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post #16823 of 21934
4/27/12 at 9:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam S View Post

It would depend on how efficient your speakers are, what you're listening to, etc.

Go with a dual 20amp circuit, and you should be fine for all gear you can fit in a single equipment rack. Subs need their own, of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmMixer View Post

Tom.. I would dedicate a separate 20amp for my AVR and another 20 amp for the subs...

Then another for your source equipment and another for your display... if you can, of course...

While multiple 20A circuits would be desirable, it all depends on what his equipment list is. Without that information, it would be difficult to make recommendations.

A single 20A circuit would be more than enough for the 4311, a 500W sub amp and most all other peripherals. Not everyone has crazy setups requiring multiple dedicated circuits.

My recommendation for crazy setups requiring more than 3 dedicated circuits in one location would be to run a sub panel to that location. That will make adding circuits much easier in the future. Rather than having to run another long cable from the main panel to the room, you have a short drop from the sub panel.
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post #16824 of 21934
4/27/12 at 9:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post


My recommendation for crazy setups requiring more than 3 dedicated circuits in one location would be to run a sub panel to that location. That will make adding circuits much easier in the future. Rather than having to run another long cable from the main panel to the room, you have a short drop from the sub panel.

this is what i wish i had done... i have 4 20 amp circuits in my room... but not because i "need them all at once"... i originally had 2 installed... the other 2 got added on 1 at a time because i moved my stuff to different areas of the room... would have been a lot easier to drop them from a sub-panel...

plus nothing says "i'm a big boy with big boy toys" more than a sub-panel in your ht room...
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post #16825 of 21934
4/27/12 at 9:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

this is what i wish i had done... i have 4 20 amp circuits in my room... but not because i "need them all at once"... i originally had 2 installed... the other 2 got added on 1 at a time because i moved my stuff to different areas of the room... would have been a lot easier to drop them from a sub-panel...

plus nothing says "i'm a big boy with big boy toys" more than a sub-panel in your ht room...

Do you remember how much you paid to set that up?
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post #16826 of 21934
4/27/12 at 9:26am
^^^

off the top of my head, the first 2 cost me around 2 bills, the subsequent ones around 150 apiece...

i use an electrician who has done a lot of work for me (he completely rewired my house "from scratch" back in 97)... so ymmv on pricing... but unless it's a really difficult run, it shouldn't cost much more than that... for any competent electrician, it's a very basic job... insert breaker, pull wire, terminate... it's the "pull wire" part that's the cost variable...
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post #16827 of 21934
4/27/12 at 9:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^

off the top of my head, the first 2 cost me around 2 bills, the subsequent ones around 150 apiece...

i use an electrician who has done a lot of work for me (he completely rewired my house "from scratch" back in 97)... so ymmv on pricing... but unless it's a really difficult run, it shouldn't cost much more than that... for any competent electrician, it's a very basic job... insert breaker, pull wire, terminate... it's the "pull wire" part that's the cost variable...

I'm actually having issue where power goes out sometimes in those rooms. I think my builders electrician has too much dedicated to each breaker. Warranty lady told me that the new breakers they make have safety and energy features where they just shut down much more easily than the old one. Builders are getting lots of complaints. This is what they tell me. Then an electrician that works for the builder said I could upgrade to better breakers but Id have to pay. So I dont knwo who to believe. That's why I was thinking that possibly i should run a dedicated outlet for just the rack which is next to the Plasma in living room.
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post #16828 of 21934
4/27/12 at 11:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus00 View Post

I'm actually having issue where power goes out sometimes in those rooms. I think my builders electrician has too much dedicated to each breaker. Warranty lady told me that the new breakers they make have safety and energy features where they just shut down much more easily than the old one. Builders are getting lots of complaints. This is what they tell me. Then an electrician that works for the builder said I could upgrade to better breakers but Id have to pay. So I dont knwo who to believe. That's why I was thinking that possibly i should run a dedicated outlet for just the rack which is next to the Plasma in living room.

Are your breakers tripping or are the lights just dimming? I believe there are new building codes that requires special breakers for bedrooms that detect an open circuit or something like that. Very similar to GF circuits breakers, but the are very sensitive. They will trip if there is something plugged into it and gets pulled out slightly so that the prongs are exposed. So if you have a vacuum or a clock radio and unplug it while it is still on, it may trip the breaker.

Now if the lights are simply dimming then no breaker will prevent that. In this case, who ever did the electrical either sized the wires too small for the distance or put too many lights/outlets on one circuit. You are getting voltage sag.

I am not an electrician nor do I even play one on TV so keep that in mind. It's just what it sounds like to me.
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post #16829 of 21934
4/27/12 at 11:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

this is what i wish i had done... i have 4 20 amp circuits in my room... but not because i "need them all at once"... i originally had 2 installed... the other 2 got added on 1 at a time because i moved my stuff to different areas of the room... would have been a lot easier to drop them from a sub-panel...

plus nothing says "i'm a big boy with big boy toys" more than a sub-panel in your ht room...

This is what I'm going through now. When I first envisioned my setup, I thought all I needed was a single 20A circuit in the closet and a few scattered around the room for my sub. Four additional pro amps and extension cords running around the room later and I've decided that rather than have my electrician pull more circuits to the closet I'd have him put in a sub panel so it'll be much easier to add additional circuits in the future. I just hope a 100A sub panel will be enough.
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post #16830 of 21934
4/27/12 at 11:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

This is what I'm going through now. When I first envisioned my setup, I thought all I needed was a single 20A circuit in the closet and a few scattered around the room for my sub. Four additional pro amps and extension cords running around the room later and I've decided that rather than have my electrician pull more circuits to the closet I'd have him put in a sub panel so it'll be much easier to add additional circuits in the future. I just hope a 100A sub panel will be enough.

100A sub panel seems like quite a bit. My whole house only has 200A. I have a dedicated/re-purposed room for just my HT, and had the electrician run two 20A circuits (one for amps, the other for sub/remaining gear) and one 15A just for the plasma.

Back on topic to the 4311CI.. I ordered one for myself I am certain I'm the only fellow going to use the 4311CI in a 2.0 configuration with smallish bookshelf speakers. What can I say? I typically go for overkill every time.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK]