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The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 659

post #19741 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

this post by AustinJerry is as wonderful of a description as you will ever get: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430049/the-official-denon-avr-4520ci-thread/330#post_22487485

That will save a lot of time. Thanks for the link.
post #19742 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

1. Standard response -- have you read through the Audyssey 101/FAQ? Likely cause is either (1) front speakers set to "large or (2) front speakers set to "small" but with a very low crossover (e.g. 40Hz).
2. Nope, the Pandora feed to receivers and other devices like BDP's is what it is.
3. When you have a chance, save your config to your PC and then give it a microprocessor reset, and then reload. Hopefully it's just a little glitch that gets cleared up with a reset.

Thank you for the reply batpig. My fronts are definitely set to Large. I am not very knowledgeable about exactly what the crossover settings even do so please bear with me heh. I just assumed since my sub was working fine for all other inputs but not that one, that I may have been doing something wrong. Also I am going to recalibrate my system with Audyssey this weekend since I now have my boom mic stand and can better place the mic.

As far as #3 goes, I'm assuming the manual will tell me how to do all of those things, such as save the config to PC then give the microprocessor a reset, and reload the config?
post #19743 of 23157
Quote:
As far as #3 goes, I'm assuming the manual will tell me how to do all of those things, such as save the config to PC then give the microprocessor a reset, and reload the config?

so obviously you didn't read the post I made IMMEDIATELY BEFORE the post in which I replied to you? wink.giftongue.gif

Quote:
My fronts are definitely set to Large. I am not very knowledgeable about exactly what the crossover settings even do so please bear with me heh. I just assumed since my sub was working fine for all other inputs but not that one, that I may have been doing something wrong. Also I am going to recalibrate my system with Audyssey this weekend since I now have my boom mic stand and can better place the mic.

When you recalibrate with Audyssey there's a good chance the Fronts get set to "large" especially if they are tower speakers. You (nearly) always want to reset them to "small" so the low bass goes to the sub with all content. This is a good read: http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large

The crossover frequency determines the point at which the speaker starts "handing off" the bass to the subwoofer. 80Hz is generally the minimum crossover recommended if you have a good subwoofer(s), but depending on the quality of your main speakers you could go as low at 60Hz or even 40Hz.
post #19744 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

so obviously you didn't read the post I made IMMEDIATELY BEFORE the post in which I replied to you? wink.giftongue.gif
When you recalibrate with Audyssey there's a good chance the Fronts get set to "large" especially if they are tower speakers. You (nearly) always want to reset them to "small" so the low bass goes to the sub with all content. This is a good read: http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large
The crossover frequency determines the point at which the speaker starts "handing off" the bass to the subwoofer. 80Hz is generally the minimum crossover recommended if you have a good subwoofer(s), but depending on the quality of your main speakers you could go as low at 60Hz or even 40Hz.

Okay thanks again for the information.

And no haha I did not see that earlier post! And I'll assume that even though it is for the 4520, it also works with the 4311ci since you pointed me to it tongue.gif

I will also look into the settings that you mentioned about setting them to small, as well as changing the frequency of the crossover.

It is currently set at 100Hz on both my subwoofer AND my receiver. I'm assuming you want those values to match?

I'll give it a go either tonight after I paint my basement wall or early tomorrow with recalibration, and also check out that link.

EDIT:

I just gave that link a read up above and some of the comments from the author down below, and wow, it looks like I have quite a bit of configuration changes to make this weekend to my AVR and sub!
Edited by purbeast - 11/9/12 at 12:43pm
post #19745 of 23157
Quote:
It is currently set at 100Hz on both my subwoofer AND my receiver. I'm assuming you want those values to match?

Nope. Start reading some Audyssey guides wink.gif

Link: http://batpigworld.com/wp/?page_id=37
post #19746 of 23157
I have just re-run Audyssey on my system and have recently been playing Audyseey Multeq XT Dynamic Volume settings. I have found that I really like using Midnight (I know blasphemous) because it makes dialogue so so so much easier to pick up.

I have tried simply turning Dyn Vol OFF and upping the center channel level in an attempt to recreate this, but it doesn't seem as effective.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to get the improved dialogue clarity without the disappointing muting of explosions and car crashes?
post #19747 of 23157
why not a "combined approach" where you up the center channel volume AND use Dynamic Volume, but at a lighter setting (e.g. Day or Evening)?

the fundamental problem is that the full dynamic range -- the difference between dialogue volume and the volume of explosions -- may be too much for your preferences. So I think an intermediate approach should get you there.
post #19748 of 23157
I bought 2 front Polk RTi 12. 4311 not enough power for my speakers.
I added Behringer EP4000 amp to use RTi 12 and wanted to use the 4311 for the center and surround.
How do I setup "AMP ASSIGN" 4311 to make it work.
Thanks.
post #19749 of 23157
^^^

i find it rather unlikely that it does not have enough power to power your speakers... and the ep4000 is complete overkill

however, you'd use the same amp assign you are now...
post #19750 of 23157
currently amp assign: Normal

do I need to set: Amp Assign Mode: 11CH
Ext. AMP: Front

Reason I ask because EP4000 signal light off and no sound RTi 12. EP400 manual said "The SIGNAL LED lights up as long as a signal is present at the input"
Does this mean 4311 not provide enought signal power to EP4000?
Thanks
post #19751 of 23157
Have you read the info at the beginning if this thread?

You don't need to do anything with amp assign. The pre outs are always "hot", amp assign I only relevant to the INTERNAL amps. You only need to set it to 11ch if... Wait for it.... You are running 11 channels wink.gif
post #19752 of 23157
Hi all, long time reader, first post.

I've been considering a new receiver and with everyone's suggestion on the 4311, I bought one a few weeks ago. I upgraded from a 3805 and while I love the features of the 4311, the 3805 sounds much more detailed. In fact the 4311 sounds rather lifeless. It does not sound BAD, just kind of anemic...

I select Pure/Pure Direct when listening to music with my Focal 826W's and the difference is quite pronounced in the mid-upper vocal range. Even after a few Audyssey calibrations, the 4311 cannot match the clarity and tone of the 3805 in Pure Direct mode.

My question is this: Do any of you remember a break-in period on the receiver amps? I really want to keep it as I love the new features (HDMI switching, OSD, Audyssey, Airplay), but ultimately sound quality is my primary concern.

Thanks for any suggestions!
post #19753 of 23157
^^^

no, solid state equipment does not "break in"...

my "guess" is that something has been flattened out in the cal, and you aren't used to it...
post #19754 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
no, solid state equipment does not "break in"...
my "guess" is that something has been flattened out in the cal, and you aren't used to it...

Isn't the eq/cal bypassed in Pure mode?
post #19755 of 23157
^^^

yes...
post #19756 of 23157
Another quick question, it briefly says "Upgrade" during power on each time. When I check to see if there is an upgrade or firmware update, nothing is there. Is it just saying the receiver has an upgrade (Airplay) already applied?
post #19757 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymonkey View Post

Another quick question, it briefly says "Upgrade" during power on each time. When I check to see if there is an upgrade or firmware update, nothing is there. Is it just saying the receiver has an upgrade (Airplay) already applied?

A 4311 which has had the Airplay upgrade installed will display "Upgrade" when powered on.
post #19758 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes...

Hmm, so it just sounds different then. Again, it's not that it sounds bad, just not as good.

I may be returning/selling smile.gif Thanks for your input!
post #19759 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

A 4311 which has had the Airplay upgrade installed will display "Upgrade" when powered on.

Awesome, thank you!
post #19760 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymonkey View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
yes...

Hmm, so it just sounds different then. Again, it's not that it sounds bad, just not as good.

I may be returning/selling smile.gif Thanks for your input!

in a controlled test, i'd eat the 4311 if you could differentiate it from the 3805... to the best of my knowledge, the output in each is audibly flat (which it had better be)...

likely a level difference, or something along those lines...
post #19761 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymonkey View Post

Isn't the eq/cal bypassed in Pure mode?

Just curious, since the significant improvement over your previous AVR is the 4311's XT32 technology, which significantly improves sound quality, why aren't you using it? IMO, a properly-calibrated 4311 should sound better than your 3805.

When I listen to Pure Direct, both on my previous 4311, and on my current 4520, it sounds lifeless when compared to listening with Audyssey and DEQ engaged. And my speakers are no slouches...
post #19762 of 23157
^^^

as pure direct would be the least accurate reproduction method (which you already know), that's not surprising... smile.gif

friends don't let friends use pure direct... tongue.gif
post #19763 of 23157
On the amp assign watt should i choose To add a stereo amplifier To my 5.1 surround
post #19764 of 23157
I've seen reports in various AVR threads, I think including this one, that people have run into cases where they had to use the HDMI input closest to the HDMI output to get a device to work properly. I've always been skeptical about this until yesterday...

I replaced my HDMI matrix switcher (an Octava 4x4) and HDBase-T HDMI extenders (Transformative Engineering HD-1) yesterday with a Crestron DM-HD6x4 and their HDBase-T extenders which gave me 2 more HDMI inputs, simplified the cabling as the matrix switch now has built in HDBase-T transmitters, and gave me more functionality at the HDBase-T receiver end.

However, I ran into an issue - the TV in the bedroom system (which consists of the Denon AVR-4311CI and a Panasonic 42" plasma display) wouldn't give me picture or sound from the HDBase-T receiver, even though it had been working fine with the previous equipment and the same cabling.

After a bunch of head scratching, I remembered that some people reported they had to use the HDMI input closest to the HDMI output to get things to work. Since I was using HDMI input 1 (the furthest from the output), I figured I had nothing to lose by trying HDMI input 6. To my amazement, it worked.

Has anyone come up with a reasonable explanation for this? It just seems hard to believe that a $2500 MSRP receiver should have what would appear to be a design flaw such as this. Naturally, a few people on the Crestron discussion group at Yahoo Groups are skeptical (as am I) - all I can say to them is "well, it worked, so I'm happy" smile.gif.
post #19765 of 23157
^^^

been that way on everything i've ever owned, including the susano...

"we" came up with a bunch of theories in the pio sc-05/07 thread, none of which particularly satisfied me...
post #19766 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Just curious, since the significant improvement over your previous AVR is the 4311's XT32 technology, which significantly improves sound quality, why aren't you using it? IMO, a properly-calibrated 4311 should sound better than your 3805.
When I listen to Pure Direct, both on my previous 4311, and on my current 4520, it sounds lifeless when compared to listening with Audyssey and DEQ engaged. And my speakers are no slouches...

I agree. However, the issue is that the 3805 sounds better in any mode than the 4311 in any mode. In stereo it isn't as noticeable aside from the vocals. In 5.1 the center channel sounds especially 'lifeless' with or without eq or level adjustments. The best way to describe the center channel issue would be the mid-upper vocal range sounds like one of the two woofers were out of phase (just in this frequency range). It's very odd indeed. Granted, these speakers reveal nearly everything so it's easier to pickup.

I went this route with intent to use the 4311 as a pre later on as the features are much improved. Initially I thought the eq was the issue so I disabled it. It now seems to be the input stage or amps, not the eq/calibration. So I could stil use it as a pre, but have no amp to determine the source of the odd sound.

While Audyssey does make the overall sound better, that frequency range continues to sound very dead in the center channel.
post #19767 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by bernasantos View Post

On the amp assign watt should i choose To add a stereo amplifier To my 5.1 surround

No change is required. Simply connect the FL/FR pre-outs on the 4311CI to your stereo amp and you're good to go.
post #19768 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

I've seen reports in various AVR threads, I think including this one, that people have run into cases where they had to use the HDMI input closest to the HDMI output to get a device to work properly. I've always been skeptical about this until yesterday...
I replaced my HDMI matrix switcher (an Octava 4x4) and HDBase-T HDMI extenders (Transformative Engineering HD-1) yesterday with a Crestron DM-HD6x4 and their HDBase-T extenders which gave me 2 more HDMI inputs, simplified the cabling as the matrix switch now has built in HDBase-T transmitters, and gave me more functionality at the HDBase-T receiver end.
However, I ran into an issue - the TV in the bedroom system (which consists of the Denon AVR-4311CI and a Panasonic 42" plasma display) wouldn't give me picture or sound from the HDBase-T receiver, even though it had been working fine with the previous equipment and the same cabling.
After a bunch of head scratching, I remembered that some people reported they had to use the HDMI input closest to the HDMI output to get things to work. Since I was using HDMI input 1 (the furthest from the output), I figured I had nothing to lose by trying HDMI input 6. To my amazement, it worked.
Has anyone come up with a reasonable explanation for this? It just seems hard to believe that a $2500 MSRP receiver should have what would appear to be a design flaw such as this. Naturally, a few people on the Crestron discussion group at Yahoo Groups are skeptical (as am I) - all I can say to them is "well, it worked, so I'm happy" smile.gif.

AFAIK, it has to do with the signal path distance on the board. Try connecting to #3-#5 to see if they work as well as #6, as more often than not, it's the first two that have issues..
post #19769 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymonkey View Post

Another quick question, it briefly says "Upgrade" during power on each time. When I check to see if there is an upgrade or firmware update, nothing is there. Is it just saying the receiver has an upgrade (Airplay) already applied?

It's important to note the distinction between "Upgrade" and "Update", as the former indicates some new feature addition (eg. Airplay) while the latter simply indicates new fixes. Simply set "Upgrade Notification" (p. 102 OM) to "Off" as there is not likely to ever be another firmware "Upgrade" again.
post #19770 of 23157
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnymonkey View Post

I bought one a few weeks ago. I upgraded from a 3805 and while I love the features of the 4311, the 3805 sounds much more detailed. In fact the 4311 sounds rather lifeless. It does not sound BAD, just kind of anemic...

I upgraded from a 3805 to a 4310 and noticed an immediate improvement in midrange clarity when all of the various processing modes were off on each (except for bass management). I have used an SVS AS-EQ1 for room correction in the bass with both units. The Audyssey XT in the 4310 does a much better job than the Denon Room EQ in the 3805 did.

I am assuming the 4311 is at least as good as the 4310, if not better.
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