The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 694

I have had some 220V fans that would not start at 120V or that required a hand spin after a power outage. Here is a much better alternative:

http://www.buyextras.com/cocofanki14q.html

I have several of these and they are very quiet but still move a good bit of air.

I've been using my 4311 pretty regularly over the past month or two for both movies and music. I noticed something yesterday that concerned me a bit, since I had not seen it happen before. After listening to music for several hours, I noticed the front panel display was blank. I would have thought the unit switched off if it wasn't for the music still coming through my speakers. I could bring the display back on by adjusting the volume or switching inputs, but after a few seconds, the panel would go blank again. The unit was pretty warm, so I let it cool off and the problem seems to have corrected itself. I was not getting the flashing red power button, so I don't think it was too warm. Any idea what happened?

The dimmer was not switched to off, so that was not the problem. Is there some power saving setting I'm not aware of? I don't recall seeing the display go blank during long movies, so I'm a little confused.
Edited by Spaceman - 1/25/13 at 7:58am

are you sure you weren't in PURE DIRECT mode? That shuts off the display.

I've been playing with the macro function and have a question. I set up several macros to dim my display and to turn it on.
I had it all working fine and this morning it went to the wrong place. I think it is because I exited the menu from a different spot.
What I think is that I will have to exit the menu from the same place all the time or the macros won't work correctly.
Hopefully in the future I won't be dinking around in the menus as much.
Does this sound right?

Thanks, Batpig. I was playing around with Pure Direct and must have had it on that setting. What is the reasoning behind shutting off the display in that mode?

Its so pure, it doesnt even need to display to you how pure it is.

Ha!

The "reasoning" is that the point of Pure Direct is to disable ANY ancillary circuitry which could sully the signal. This includes all digital processing, the video section, and of course the front panel display. The idea being that the less circuitry that is active, the less potential for electrical interference to un-purify the pure signal path.

I had shut my display off and about 3 hours later my wife came to me and said, "The display on the receiver JUST went out".
It was kind of funny it took that long for her to notice.

On that note I noticed that when you are in the menu and dim the display, that it dims, but if you shut it off it does not shut off until you leave the menu.

One question. With Dynamic Volume, can you define settings per each input? For example, set Dynamic Volume to OFF for blu-ray input, but set to EVENING for the broadcast/tv input? Or, is there any quick and easy way to switch these settings including volume offset through a custom macro on the remote?

I despise the fact that the remote doesn't have a button that goes through the front panel dimming options and you are forced to go into the menu and make the change. I have held off programming my Harmony for the exact reason you described above.

Bill

You should be able to save it via the 3 Quick Select buttons if nothing else. Just make what ever changes you would like and then long press the QS button you want to use for that particular setup. This will also work with speaker levels as well.

Bill

Quick question that I'm sure has been addressed in this thread many times....
I'm trying to use the HDMI standby pass through.
I get picture but no audio from the TV.
Any suggestions what I'm doing wrong.
I know I've had this working in the past with the same display....

Yes, everything in the "Audyssey Settings" menu (EQ, Dynamic EQ, Ref Level Offset, and Dyn Vol setting) is memorized by input.

There are discrete Harmony codes for the "Dimmer" command.

You probably aren't doing anything "wrong" per se, it's more likely a silly HDMI goof.

On the receiver side, you want the following settings:

- HDMI Control ON
- Standby Source set to whatever you want
- HDMI Audio OUT = AMP

That's all there is.

The most likely source of conflict is the TV itself -- does your display have an HDMI-CEC setting (e.g. Anynet+ for Samsung, VieraLink for Panasonic, etc)? If so try turning it off.

I had no idea. Any chance you have a link or is it in the list in the Harmony software and I just missed it.

Bill

Read: http://batpigworld.com/wp/?p=106

It worked! The first part anyway.
Thanks, I now have it in my Logitech Harmony software, but I guess I need a second remote to program it.

Thank you very much.

Bill

Quick question, I bought these cables for interconnects between the analog outs of the Oppo BDP-93 and the Ext. In ports on the 4311, and trying to keep those thick, stiff cables together in a bundle was a pain but once I got them all together and plugged in, on both sides of the bundle the connectors make contact with their neighboring channels. Being that this is RG6 coax cable and the connectors are just connected to the shielding, is that anything to worry about or do I have to worry about putting some insulating tape around each of those connectors? I havent broken out the continuity tester to see if that part of the connector is even conductive, but it is metal.

Ok, I thought I needed a 2nd remote but I don't. It was added to my list of commands at the end instead of alphabetical.
So I programmed it and it works.
Thanks Batpig!!!

So I have a problem with this AVR that I would like to ask for some help with.

So just now I finally went to play my favorite game (Super Street FIgher IV AE) for the first time on my projector since I have all my wiring finished.

I have a Panasonic 8000AE as my projector. The AVR is hooked up via a 25ft HDMI cable to the projector, in wall. Then my 360 (and PS3) are hooked up via a little 6ft HDMI cable to the AVR.

So I go to play and IMMEDIATELY notice a lot of input lag. I'm super sensitive to this and noticed it hardcore. And prior to this, I hooked my PS3 up directly to the projector (no sound) just to see how it played, and it had no lag. So this was way worse than I was used to.

I then was like WTF, so I put in my PS3 version of the game, and again, same result.

I then experimented a bit.

I took my 360 and hooked it directly to the projector via another 6ft HDMI cable. Went to play it and it was fine, no lag or anything.

I then thought maybe the 25ft run was too long and causing lag. I then hooked the 360 up to the SAME EXACT HDMI cable as the AVR is using. I played the game and again, no input lag.

So I've narrowed it down to the AVR as doing something to cause this lag.

Does anyone have any idea what it could be?

And I'm 99% sure that something is up, because before I purchased my projector I demo'd it at a guys house, who also had the 4311ci, and played SSF4 on it, and there was no lag. Also I did have my projector in game mode, so it's not that.

Any ideas?

EDIT:

PS3 is hooked to the BD input, Xbox 360 is hooked to the GAME input, and I believe the HDMI going to my projector is on ARC2.

EDIT 2:

CRISIS AVERTED!

I just messed around with it more and looked at the HDMI settings. I noticed that for 720p and 480p the HDMI showed 50/60hz, but the 1080p showed 50/60/24hz.

So I changed my 360 to 1080p and it made a HUGE difference.

I then also turned off the "auto fix lip syncing" option and that made it even better.

So it's fine now woot woot!
Edited by purbeast - 1/25/13 at 5:05pm

Thanks again batpig, I now have a dimmer button on my Harmony

Bill

X2

I finally connected up my 4311 and while I haven't done much at all with config I did do the airplay update and it works pretty cool. The menus are a little tricky to get the hang of but there is ALOT of customization you can do on this unit.

It's a lot of trouble making all those analog connections and really nothing to be gained so I gave them up long ago. Why bother doing that from an Oppo 93, BTW? Just askin...

Ideally, you should turn the "i/p scaler" for the appropriate inputs "off" and the video mode to "game". If you can live without the AVR's screen menus overlaid, you can even turn off "video convert" completely. That way, the AVR doesn't do much to the signal and needs less time for processing.
Edited by eyespy39 - 1/26/13 at 5:24am

I actually found the video setting of GAME and MOVIE last night and makes a HUGE difference on the PS3 settings. I use PS3 for both movies and games, so I'm going to have to just manually change it based on what I'm doing.

I'll check out the IP scaler thing too though, thanks.

You could probably set up a quick select for gaming and another for moives so that you don't have to go into the menu and make the changes manually. I have 3 set up -, one for movies, one for gaming and one for music which they change several things in audyssey, video, etc. settings.

So that I can hear the full DSD out of my SACD collection and compare the difference. As I understand it DSD over HDMI gets converted to PCM in the receiver where as using the Ext. In it just gets passed through and amplified. And secondly, it was an additional $40 in cables and after spending over $2k on the combo, WHY NOT?! And it wasnt THAT bad. I just wrapped the 8 cables together and stuck em in there. Took me all of 15 minutes.