The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 704

^It's interesting that you got such a significant difference between the regular autosetup cal and the Pro kit FL/R correction graphs in the Denon. Even given that they are only a crude representation, it doesn't surprise me that there is such a marked SQ diff.

The Pro "before" graphs reflect what Pro sees in your room from the summed actual measurements with 1/6 smoothing applied The "after" graphs are calculated/predicted results.

Your sub graph suggests to me that if you have other sub placement options, or can add a second sub, your bass could improve further.

I encourage you to post in the dedicatedPro kit threadfor additional comments and feedback.

^ Outstanding!

I cant place the woofer somewhere else but i am very happy with it at the moment.

I got a svs sb13 ultra so moving in 2 pieces will be housebraking :-)

I just did the airplay upgrade. Everything went smooth.
I loaded Itunes ver 11.0.2.26 on my laptop and it plays. I have never used Itunes before so I made the mistake of switching to the Denon to play a song and finding out the default volume level is maxed out, blasted pretty loud, didn't hurt anything but I hate doing that to my AVR and speakers.

It changed:

Firm Package from ver 0008 to 0007
Main from 00.70 to A0.70
Main Rom from 00.70 to A0.70
Ethernet Img from (last 4 digits) 0909 to 0930

Yes Culliganman that happens to me also. how did you water down the sound. I tried lowering the Apple volume but no good. I guess I havn't experimentited with the volume settings enough.
Dave

Thanks, batpig! It was 2.

OK I have some Airplay questions for the 4311CI

1)Should network standby be on? I don't have it on and it seems to work but maybe it would work better?

2) Should the AVR be set to Net/USB, it seems to switch to that when the computer and AVR sync up. Should I set it to Net/USB beforehand so it might connect better?

3) I am using iTunes 11.0.2.26 on a laptop and my AVR screen shows 3 buttons on the bottom.
There is pause/play, track, and exit. When I press the coresponding remote control button only the exit button does anything.
Pause/play and track don't work.
Is that normal?

Thanks.

1) network standby only needs to be on if you want Airplay to be able to turn on the receiver automatically when it is off (in standby). It doesn't change anything when the receiver is powered on. Network standby ON also allows you to access the receiver with the smartphone apps or web browser interface when the receiver is in standby.

2) it doesn't need to be set to NET/USB in advance, as when Airplay starts it will automatically switch to that input.

3) can't help you with this one... hopefully another 4311 owner can chime in.

3) You need to use the arrow keys on the remote. Up arrow is previous track, down arrow is next track and the center button will play/pause the current track. I think you already knew the correct buttons, but wanted to state it for clarity just in case. Also, make sure your remote is in "AMP" mode by pressing the "AMP" button at the top left.

The only arrow key that works on mine is the left arrow which backs it out of iTunes. I guess mine does not work right.
I did make sure I was on AMP mode, actually I tried all modes, no joy.

I have noticed since the Airplay upgrade, now when my receiver turns on it flashes "AVR4311CI UPGRADE".
Does everyone else's do that?
I had to look close because it does not stay on for long.
Edited by culliganman - 2/27/13 at 4:56pm

Not my day I guess. I noticed that while using Airplay that my volume control on screen gui stopped working.
I switched modes and all modes did not show vol level.
I turned AVR off, then back on, no joy, then unplugged it for 30 seconds and now it works.
Has anyone had this happen before?
Thanks.

Yes.

Not that specifically, but on my 4311 Airplay will lose connectivity at random. The only way to restore the connection is to restart iTunes repeatedly until connection is restored. It will only play a few songs before losing connection again. I also get random audio dropouts while watching movies. Strange thing is that this only happens if I run Audyssey auto calibration with more than three measurements.

I do not get the loss of Airplay connection or audio dropouts after performing a microprocessor or network reset. So far, I've successfully run auto setup with three measurements and have not had any issues, but the sound in the lower frequencies are not as clean as with the full eight measurements. This could be a fluke so I'll try to perform the resets again and run the calibration with three measurements again just to be sure. Yes, I have tried to unplug the unit. For eight days after multiple resets to be exact.

I think this unit may need to go back for repair. Fortunately, I still have another one still in it's sealed box.

Yes, it's telling you that it's been upgraded.

Why are you only running three measurements? Best to run every step.

I'm assuming this was meant for me. If I run anymore than three measurements, Airplay will lose connections after a few songs and would require that I restart iTunes several times to restore the connection. This will happen non-stop. I also will experience random audio dropouts while watching movies. If I do not run the auto calibration or run it with three or less measurements, I do not have any of these problems.

That's why I said that I may need to send this unit in for repair unless someone else has any suggestion on things to try that I have not already stated I did.

Running the full Audyssey calibration and successfully completing it, shouldn't affect Airplay. Unless I'm missing something or that's not what you're saying?

That's exactly what I'm saying.I know it shouldn't affect anything like that, but it does. Could be something faulty with the onboard memory or processor that it can't handle the load if it has to process the filters from more than three measurements. Doesn't sound logical to me though. Once it's been calibrated I would think the filters would be the same size regardless of how many measurement points I used. Unfortunately, that's what I have discovered in my many hours and calibration attempts. After a microprocessor and network reset everything works fine and I can use Airplay all day long and watch movies without audio dropouts. As soon as I run the calibration with more than three measurements, Airplay will lose connections after a few songs and I'll get random audio dropouts while watching movies.

I found a setting in iTunes that is required to be checked to be able to use the pause/play and track buttons on Airplay.

It is found under:

edit-preferences-devices-allow iTunes audio control from remote speakers.

Thanks everyone!

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig

Not sign out completely, just hit the left arrow twice to back out to the main "Network" menu screen. Then I reselect Pandora and the interface is normal again, not the Internet Radio one.

Just tried this right now. Started up Pandora and it automatically started playing the last station I had been playing before. But with the Internet Radio interface. Hit left arrow twice to back out, restarted Pandora, all is well.

Similar thing with Internet Radio, but it's a bit goofier. When I select Internet Radio it starts playing my last Pandora station again. I can then hit left once to back out to the main Internet Radio menu and select stations normally.

Each way, once I back out and redo it it works fine going forward, but it seems like getting one working screws the other one up. It's like they are having some weird back channel relationship or something




I have to agree with you. I hope they fix it.
Mine is now doing a similar thing, shows internet radio when on pandora, and vice versa.
I'll be playing Pandora and it has the internet radio menu, so a good song comes up and no way to thumbs up.

If I swich DHCP off, and set the IP address will it start up faster, or make for any better network connection?

I turned off DHCP a long time ago, but not for speed. It's so I can hard-code an IP address on my PC's browser to access the AVR-4311. In my case, I use 192.168.1.199 (of course, you can use anything on your network, as long as the address is outside your router's DHCP range)

I do this but leave DHCP on for all my devices and use my router to set static IPs, much easier because I can control all the IPs across my network from one device.

Is it just me or is everybody receiving the firmware update on the 1st March 2013 like I am. And what is it changing?

Interesting. I'll check mine tonight. Did you already have the latest before today's notification of an upgrade?

Quoted: what is changing??

"blue rain" demo mode!

Quick question. I seem to get a lot of handshaking between my projector and the Denon (and/or my bluray). Some movies will handshake between the previews and menu for example. I just hate the projector blinking HDMI 1 and going blue. Now I have upgraded my projector from a Epson 8350 to a JVC RS46 and my bluray player from a Oppo 93 to 103 and it still does it. Anything? I realize that I can changed the background to black and turn off the input display which will make it a lot less noticeable; however wondered if it had something to do with the way I have it set up. Thanks! Chad

A new handshake is required when the resolution changes. This is often the case in movies when it changes from higher resolution previews to lower resolution menus. The handshake issues you are having are most likely due to the fact that you have the devices connected to HDMI1 on the Oppo. HDMI1 on the Oppo has an additional video processor. Your two options are to connect HDMI1 directly to your projector and HDMI2 to your receiver or use HDMI2 if you don't need the extra video processing available on HDMI1. This may reduce the handshake times, but not eliminate them.