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The "Official" Denon AVR-4311CI/AVR-A100 thread [NO PRICE TALK] - Page 718

post #21511 of 23156
Would i be able to use this to pull audio out of HDMI Monitor 1 or 2? I would like to use them with my Dolby headset that has toslink in..
ViewHD Premium HDMI to HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA L / R) Audio Extractor | Converter
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00AHS8LD8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
post #21512 of 23156
i might also add that every sub they turned on during my demo sounded like crap! It seems that the precision of a good tight sub for music has been replaced by the mass market of big boomy subs for HT. I cant stand a boomy sub. It sounds cheap and boisterous.
post #21513 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by irisservice View Post

Would i be able to use this to pull audio out of HDMI Monitor 1 or 2? I would like to use them with my Dolby headset that has toslink in..
ViewHD Premium HDMI to HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA L / R) Audio Extractor | Converter
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00AHS8LD8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

That would work, but as jdsmoothie indicated, you don't really need something like that. Just connect an optical or digital coax cable from your source (BD Player, etc) to your AVR. The AVR has an optical out already (the AVR does not down convert from HDMI to optical out, which is why you need to connect the optical out of your source to the AVR in addition to your HDMI connection). Also, don't forget in your settings to change the digital input for that source to match what you are connecting to.

Now, if your source does not have a digitial audio out connection (I've seen some BD players without them), then your option would be the only way to go.
post #21514 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavchameleon View Post

That would work, but as jdsmoothie indicated, you don't really need something like that. Just connect an optical or digital coax cable from your source (BD Player, etc) to your AVR. The AVR has an optical out already (the AVR does not down convert from HDMI to optical out, which is why you need to connect the optical out of your source to the AVR in addition to your HDMI connection). Also, don't forget in your settings to change the digital input for that source to match what you are connecting to.

Now, if your source does not have a digitial audio out connection (I've seen some BD players without them), then your option would be the only way to go.

Ok now that makes better sense....TY...yeah the wii and my htpc dont have optical,but my cable box does...i think my way may be my best option...only thing i notice, unless i'm missing something is i have to switch HDMI Audio Out from Amp to TV no way to have both..
post #21515 of 23156
Don't forget optical will not do better then DD 5.1. In most cases that only matters with a BD player which is about the only thing that has better then DD 5.1.
post #21516 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by tc1 View Post

Don't forget optical will not do better then DD 5.1. In most cases that only matters with a BD player which is about the only thing that has better then DD 5.1.
He is using headphones so no bother. wink.gif
post #21517 of 23156
OK smile.gif
post #21518 of 23156
Thanks Guys smile.gif
Can you guys confirm what i was saying about hdmi
only thing i notice, unless i'm missing something is i have to switch HDMI Audio Out from Amp to TV no way to have both..
post #21519 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by irisservice View Post

Thanks Guys smile.gif
Can you guys confirm what i was saying about hdmi
only thing i notice, unless i'm missing something is i have to switch HDMI Audio Out from Amp to TV no way to have both..

You have two HDMI outputs - use 1 for your display/TV and the other for your headphones (don't forget to also put that in your settings that both are 'ON').
post #21520 of 23156
That part i know..just was wondering if i have to keep switching HDMI Audio Out Amp or TV...
post #21521 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post

i might also add that every sub they turned on during my demo sounded like crap! It seems that the precision of a good tight sub for music has been replaced by the mass market of big boomy subs for HT. I cant stand a boomy sub. It sounds cheap and boisterous.
It sounds like they didn't have the systems set up right.
post #21522 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post

i might also add that every sub they turned on during my demo sounded like crap! It seems that the precision of a good tight sub for music has been replaced by the mass market of big boomy subs for HT. I cant stand a boomy sub. It sounds cheap and boisterous.

Problem with subs, is that most just plop it down, say that bass is omni directional and thats it. Even a bestbuy sub deserves more than that
post #21523 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Curious tho...I thought XT32 EQ'd the subs separately? Going thru setup, initially, Audyssey started with the sub levels seperate from each other. But as setup progressed, the EQ'ing was Sub 1 + 2??? Not as I had thought, Sub 1 and THEN Sub 2? Isn't that supposed to be the way? Kinda wierd, nothing changed speaker/positions/sub plate amp levels, and with the 4310 & XT with both subs 'Y' connected to the single sub out, the level set was -7dB. Now with no changes, the 4311 & XT32 has BOTH subs pegged at -12?! eek.gif Can this be correct?

It just seems odd to me that the level would be so low and I do not understand why...

You need to turn the gain settings on your sub plate amps down so that Audyssey can better level match them or do the manual level setting during Audyssey setup.

Travis
post #21524 of 23156
Im a little confused on the sub mode settings. One is labeled "LFE" and the other LFE+mains. One is to send LF +LFE from all speakers set to small and the other is to send LFE/LF from all channels period. I dont get it. LFE are for sub only, so therefore there are no LFE signals from the other speakers regardless of which mode you set it on. I though the point was to either let the front mains handle LF from music in 2-channel mode or to set a X-over for the front mains and then let the sub handle everything below that.
post #21525 of 23156
As noted the LFE/LFE+Main are "sub" settings and in both cases the LFE (0.1) is routed to the sub, while additionally ....

LFE - freq below crossovers of speakers set to SMALL is also routed to the sub
LFE+Main - freq below crossovers of FL/FR speakers set to LARGE is also routed to sub (aka "double bass")

With ALL speakers set to SMALL (as is recommended) then either setting produces the same results.
post #21526 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daffypuck View Post

i might also add that every sub they turned on during my demo sounded like crap! It seems that the precision of a good tight sub for music has been replaced by the mass market of big boomy subs for HT. I cant stand a boomy sub. It sounds cheap and boisterous.


I'm running 2 subs. An SVS and an older (and very musical) Mirage BPS-150i. Due to Audyssey XT32, they blend very well and I'm extremely happy. Great bass in music. Great bass on blurays.
post #21527 of 23156
For some reason I am unable to preset radio stations. I know how to do it, it's really simple, but when I tune to a station, and press memory, I get the message "not available set party mode". Does anyone know why I keep getting that message, and how I can remedy the situation? I did turn on the party mode but that didn't do anything to allow me to set the stations, so I turned it back off.
post #21528 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlocksRock View Post

For some reason I am unable to preset radio stations. I know how to do it, it's really simple, but when I tune to a station, and press memory, I get the message "not available set party mode". Does anyone know why I keep getting that message, and how I can remedy the situation? I did turn on the party mode but that didn't do anything to allow me to set the stations, so I turned it back off.

Make sure the remote is set to the main zone. Press the "Zone Select" button on the remote until the LCD screen on the remote displays "M" and not "Z2", "Z3" or "Z4".
post #21529 of 23156
Just an update the ViewHD Premium HDMI to HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA L / R) Audio Extractor | Converter worked perfect
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00AHS8LD8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Thanks for the help

post #21530 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Make sure the remote is set to the main zone. Press the "Zone Select" button on the remote until the LCD screen on the remote displays "M" and not "Z2", "Z3" or "Z4".

I'm pretty sure that's what it's set to, but I'll have to double check... I guess if I can't get it working I'll have to call Denon.
post #21531 of 23156
I'm not well versed with the video settings of the 4311. So I'm wondering what would be the best settings for the 4311 so the signal from my Oppo 103 is not processed? Is there a way to bypass the video processing of the 4311 and still have the OSD? I'm not at home so I'm not sure what the settings are. Also what would be best settings for cable with my TW SA8300HD? I'm using HDMI with the SA8300HD and everything works fine. But I'm wondering if sending the signal from the SA8300HD direct to my 60GT50 would be best as well. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this smile.gif.

Bill
post #21532 of 23156
Just added a Sharp LC-70LE847U to my setup:)
My question is I have always just used my TV as a monitor with one HDMI from the 4311 to the tv and let the 4311 do everything.
But since the tv is wifi enabled I may want to watch netflix or something through it.
So what would be the best way to get the audio from the tv back to the receiver?
And the best way to setup the receiver for this?
post #21533 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mac View Post

I'm not well versed with the video settings of the 4311. So I'm wondering what would be the best settings for the 4311 so the signal from my Oppo 103 is not processed? Is there a way to bypass the video processing of the 4311 and still have the OSD? I'm not at home so I'm not sure what the settings are. Also what would be best settings for cable with my TW SA8300HD? I'm using HDMI with the SA8300HD and everything works fine. But I'm wondering if sending the signal from the SA8300HD direct to my 60GT50 would be best as well. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this smile.gif.

Bill

 

Video Convert=On, I/P Scaler=Off. 

post #21534 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black2002ws6 View Post

Just added a Sharp LC-70LE847U to my setup:)
My question is I have always just used my TV as a monitor with one HDMI from the 4311 to the tv and let the 4311 do everything.
But since the tv is wifi enabled I may want to watch netflix or something through it.
So what would be the best way to get the audio from the tv back to the receiver?
And the best way to setup the receiver for this?

 

The TV should have a digital audio out (e.g. Toslink).  Run a Toslink cable to the AVR, and set up an input that uses this digital audio connection.  Very simple.

post #21535 of 23156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black2002ws6 View Post

Just added a Sharp LC-70LE847U to my setup:)
My question is I have always just used my TV as a monitor with one HDMI from the 4311 to the tv and let the 4311 do everything.
But since the tv is wifi enabled I may want to watch netflix or something through it.
So what would be the best way to get the audio from the tv back to the receiver?
And the best way to setup the receiver for this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

The TV should have a digital audio out (e.g. Toslink).  Run a Toslink cable to the AVR, and set up an input that uses this digital audio connection.  Very simple.

Or you can just use HDMI1 on the TV and use the ARC feature.
post #21536 of 23156
Ok sound good.

Next question:)
With the new TV what would be the best video setting for the receiver.
I have FIOS cable and of course a 3D blu-ray player and PS3 and Xbox.
How should I set up the video on the receiver for all these?
Should I use Video Convert?
Should I use I/P scaler?
Right now I have Video Convert on for everything and I/P scaler set to auto.
post #21537 of 23156
That was my thinking that I may be able to just use the HDMI to the TV now and the ARC feature but not sure how to do that:(
post #21538 of 23156
Ok since I'm going for all the questions here lets do one more:)
Of course when I watch HD channels on FIOS they are full screen.
But when I watch digital channels the just show up as a small box in the middle of the screen.
So I have to use the FIOS remote to expand the picture.
I didn't have this issue with my old Onkyo so is there a setting in the receiver to make digital inputs show up full screen?
post #21539 of 23156
So....I've been having trouble saving my AVR-A100 configuration. After searching the forum and the web I finally just decided to microprocessor reset and give it another try (after having tried resetting router, etc.).

Lo and behold it did work fine after that. I was able to successfully save the factory reset configuration. Feeling squirrelly I restored (Load) the configuration just to see if it would work. I then made some minor changes to the config, and successfully saved again.

I thought great, now I'll run Audyssey, save, move on to other tasks, and be happy.

NO...not today, the AVR tells me...

After running Audyssey, I can't save the configuration. I start up the web controller, go to the save menu, click the save button. Never get the "Saving...." display on the AVR. THe AVR display just keeps displaying my source and signal type. Green power ring on. On my web browser the "save" dialog will appear, but if I save it will be an empty file. If I just wait (save file or not), eventually the AVR powers off and back on like it actually did a save. (USING WINDOWS 7 64-BIT ie9, same as when successful save was completed a half hour before)

I could not recall if I changed HDMI Control to 'on' before or after the last successful save, so I tried turning it off, powered down the AVR from the front panel power button.

I never switched to Net\USB since the reset, so that shouldn't be an issue. Network Standby is 'On'.

Still won't save.

Any ideas or is something wrong with my AVR-A100?

Thanks,
Jason
post #21540 of 23156
Try setting "Network Standby" to OFF.
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