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15" TC sound LMS build - Page 2

post #31 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

one idea is to route the edges for a nice no-grill look, but as was mentioned glue some magnets (neodymium is very strong but may not be necessary) inside at the four corners of the driver, so that if you want to make a grill later it can be held on the front with no holes or anything. home stores may have something that is good enough. 1/2" x 1" x 2" bars for about $2 or so a piece. that size may be overkill though.

here is how they are listed at h.d.:
Crown Bolt 3/8 In. x 7/8 In. x 1-7/8 In. Magnet Block
Model # 97044
Store SKU # 609118
$2.19/EA-Each

Thanks, I already have 6 of These (b) each is good for 5lbs each so I think I'm good for magnet. Unless those wont work for some reason?
post #32 of 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintonH View Post

Wish I could tell ya I had a good formula but I just went with what made sense to me. I drew the radius/top overall shape out on paper full sized then measured what the inside and outside radius was. It showed I loose approx 1.25" for every 10" in length on the inside at the tightest radius. So I figured out how many cuts I would have to make to take that amount out at that length and doubled it. I did that so there was no maybe's because I figured at exact measurements it would be to tight to make the bend and I'd run into having to recut. It worked out well enough.
To figure out the area, I had a box drawn around the shape I had decided on for the top/bottom. I then divided up the empty space along with the 3/4" for wall thickness into triangles, overlapping rather than under so it would err on the side of less. Doubled that for the two sides and I get the area of the odd shape. The only other way I know how to do this is to find the area of an oval LxWx.8 and divide that by 2. Which was fairly close but a bit on the small side since the sides of my enclosure are not as curved as an oval.
Hope this made some sense to you I don't normally plan this stuff all that indepth I usually just come up with a quick plan and build, works most of the time. Oh and no I didn't use any water or anything to bend my shape, just ran some glue on the top/bottom and clapped everything in place and nailed it down.

Thanks
post #33 of 108
Thread Starter 
Just wanted to say thanks again for all your input guys really appreciate it makes it easier to get this done.

Had another 4hrs to work on this last night. Form is finished off and a recess for the terminals. Should be able to prime it tonight after work or tomorrow, so paint is not far off.

I added the front extensions to match up to a grill If I build one. Used some spare mdf baseboard to extend the 3/4" sheet cuts. I don't have a round over any bigger than 1/2" so I ground the contour and just block sanded it out straight.





Then I did the filler work and routered out a recess for the terminals. The filler is on very light (see through in most spots) I cover 90% of the sides mainly to get a nice uniform/straight shape and to seal off the MDF so it doesn't take so much primer.




post #34 of 108
Nice job Clinton,

Somehow missed your thread until this morning. Excellent job on the curved cabinet, you mentioned not having enough clamps. The trick I use is to fasten the leading edge as you did, then use 2 band-clamps top and bottom (you could use ratcheting tie-downs as well), and suck outer sheet to the form pieces. Very clean work.
post #35 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LBDiver View Post

Nice job Clinton,

Somehow missed your thread until this morning. Excellent job on the curved cabinet, you mentioned not having enough clamps. The trick I use is to fasten the leading edge as you did, then use 2 band-clamps top and bottom (you could use ratcheting tie-downs as well), and suck outer sheet to the form pieces. Very clean work.

Thanks I remember reading that somewhere before but when I needed to remember it was a blank. I'll remember next time.

Got time to put some primer on in this morning before work so should have at least paint and the first 4 coats of clear on it by the weekend. I'm thinking I'm going to go with a pearl iridescent charcoal grey with 4 or 5 coats of deep red candy, best of both worlds. Then I'll end up with 8-10 coats of clear, dry every 3 coats with a sand out. That should leave little if any polishing at the end.



post #36 of 108
I have to ask...

What's up with Iron Man over there?
post #37 of 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

I have to ask...

What's up with Iron Man over there?

+1
i just saw that and cracked up
post #38 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

I have to ask...

What's up with Iron Man over there?

Another project, I build movie props on the side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

+1
i just saw that and cracked up

Why? It makes for a nice second income, you wouldn't believe what guys will pay for costume and statue props. I mean it's alot of work but it's easy work.
post #39 of 108
So where is your Daft Punk line?

Really though it looks pretty good. Just not something I was expecting to see.
post #40 of 108
Man I need to learn to paint.

Since your a pro painter how about giving us DIY slacker's some tips?
What's a good paint gun for occasional paint jobs and how do you properly set it up?
Did you just paint in your garage and how is everything not coated?

Please help.......
post #41 of 108
Sweet sub by the way.
post #42 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by soho54 View Post

So where is your Daft Punk line?

Really though it looks pretty good. Just not something I was expecting to see.

LOL no Daft Punk stuff for me. Mainly Ironman, Batman and Freddy gloves for the time being. Making other stuff as well but it gets over the top quick if you let it. Made 22 of those IM lids before I pulled the plug on that to get back on finishing the whole suit. There's more stuff that I've built in my sig link.
post #43 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

Man I need to learn to paint.

Since your a pro painter how about giving us DIY slacker's some tips?
What's a good paint gun for occasional paint jobs and how do you properly set it up?
Did you just paint in your garage and how is everything not coated?

Please help.......


Paint gun depends on what you want to spend, but I'll tell ya it's not really the gun that will make the difference it's the practice and messing things up that'll make you better.
I use a fairly cheap gun at home and it's worked really well for me for the last 5 years I've owned it. It's on of these guys , it was about double that when I bought it that's a great price for the pair. That's an overhead HVLP, high volume low pressure. That's why not much overspray in the garage, I only run between 15 and 22 psi at the reg off the compressor. Which is only around 10 psi or a little less at the tip so it doesn't create alot of overspray and saves you product since more is going on your project instead of out your exhaust fan.
You need a fairly good compressor if your going to use a HVLP since they use a high CFM to run them. What kind of compressor do you have? HP, CFM rating are key, you really should match your gun with what you can feed it. You can give me a PM if you need any more info or I can answer it here which ever you prefer, ask away I'm a book of useless info.
post #44 of 108
I have one of these at home (0.6 HP / CFM @100 PSI 1.8 CFM) but have a huge industrial compressor at my shop that I can use. If you think the Dewalt can handle it then I could try that but I can also drag my project to the shop.

Thanks for the tip on the HVLP, I am definitely going to pick one up, nice price.

I can PM you with anymore questions but I thought a lot of other DIY'ers would appreciate the info.

Thank you.
post #45 of 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintonH View Post

Paint gun depends on what you want to spend, but I'll tell ya it's not really the gun that will make the difference it's the practice and messing things up that'll make you better.

I'll second, third, and fourth all of this.

The only way to get good is to do it, a lot. The easy way to get good fast without getting a job at a body shop, would be to buy two large panes of glass (4'x4' or larger,) and alternate spraying, and sanding/prepping. Set the panes up so that you can spray both sides, then put a few coats on them one day, and the next day properly prep the surface for a new coat of paint. This way you can kill two birds with one stone, as both steps have to be done right for a good finish.
post #46 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

I have one of these at home (0.6 HP / CFM @100 PSI 1.8 CFM) but have a huge industrial compressor at my shop that I can use. If you think the Dewalt can handle it then I could try that but I can also drag my project to the shop.

Thanks for the tip on the HVLP, I am definitely going to pick one up, nice price.

I can PM you with anymore questions but I thought a lot of other DIY'ers would appreciate the info.

Thank you.

You'll end up having to take it to your shop. HVLP's suck alot of air at the spray pressure, I would want a min of 12 CFM @ 30 psi. My home compressor is 18.5 CFM @ 120psi and a little overr double that at my spray pressure. Any other questions sure post em here I have no problems with that at all.
I do agree with soho54, practice on something first to get a feel for it there's nothing like diving in and getting your hands dirty. And yes the finish work is actually more important than the top coat, you can always snad and buff runs nibs etc out but if you go topcoat something that is less than idealy finished it will always be sub par. I'll be finishing this primer with 500grit dry, I would usually finish it with 600 wet min but primer is porous and mdf doesn't like water. I'll be laying out most likely 8 coats of base with the candy so 500 dry will be fine then between clear coats it will be 1000 grit wet, makes for a nice smooth deep finish at the end of it all.
post #47 of 108
Very nice Clinton - very Gotham esque....

http://www.avreview.co.uk/news/images/JL-Gotham_bg.jpg

Thats going to look great....
post #48 of 108
Only if he could get that amp/DSP that the Gotham has
post #49 of 108
Thanks for all the tips Clinton,

When I have a project ready I will just drag it to the shop, better to get that place all dirty then my own garage

Can't wait to see the color you throw on your killer sub.
post #50 of 108
I have restored a few cars over the years and sprayed a few of them. The prep is everything. Here's a pic of my last project...'70 Nova.

What I wanted to add, was that keeping the air dry is really important. As it is compressed, the air heats up and creates condensation. For small parts, it may not be an issue. Large panels or extensive spraying, it becomes an issue.
LL
post #51 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

Very nice Clinton - very Gotham esque....

http://www.avreview.co.uk/news/images/JL-Gotham_bg.jpg

Thats going to look great....

Thanks, yep that was the plan since the first post. Glad it resembles it I really like the look of the Gotham just way out of my $$ range. I would have really liked to have built this with a driver like the ones you used in your wicked subs. But I had to settle for the little brother couldn't convince the wife I needed to spend $1500 on a driver then have to upgrade my amp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

Only if he could get that amp/DSP that the Gotham has

Would be nice, this sub still seems to be plenty for my small theater room even in the crappy box it's in right now. Should just get better once it's in it's new home. Might even buy a bigger amp for it in the near future.
post #52 of 108
Looks like the start of a Hellboy bust as well. Sorry about the off topic...but do you make your movie props out of plastic? Or what materials? Nice job on the sub and IM suit too!
post #53 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodfiend View Post

Looks like the start of a Hellboy bust as well. Sorry about the off topic...but do you make your movie props out of plastic? Or what materials? Nice job on the sub and IM suit too!

Actually the Hellboy bust is complete not mine though a fellow prop maker, it's cast in urethane resin. Just waiting for me to get time to paint it up.
What do I use, well depends on what I'm building. For Batman stuff like say Begins blets, cape clips and rangs they are cast in urethane resin as well, different shore hardness for different pieces. Cowls face masks ( green lantern, robin etc) are cast in Urethane or Latex depending on what kind of mold it is. Freddy gloves copper, stainless steel and leather.
For my IronMan project I built a template out of paper, harden that with polyester resin strengthened with fiberglass and then filler to shape and form it properly. Then it will be molded (some has been) in urethane or silicone depending on which part. Then it will be cast in Gelcoat/Fiberglass, bolts etc are cast in straight polyester resin. Here's a few more pics of the IM when it was all together before I decided to redo some stuff that was bothering me. And only one arm will be finished as when I cast it they are both the same so no point in finishing both.
Oh and sorry for the off topic posts on this to anyone that doesn't care, I should have moved it out of the way when taking pics I guess.

More Pics of my stuff can be found here.



post #54 of 108
Funny, for a second there I thought he was going to admit "I am Iron Man"!

Incredible looking sub, but come on, no one who "sucks" at woodwork can build a sub like that, or for that matter has a DIY panel saw in their garage!!

Speaking of, where's the build thread for that saw!!
post #55 of 108
Clinton, your work is awesome. I definitely need your help on my NOT802D thread!!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hlight=not802d

Im stuck now trying to create a mold from my prototype....any advice would be awesome since you do that sort of thing for a living.
post #56 of 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

I have restored a few cars over the years and sprayed a few of them. The prep is everything. Here's a pic of my last project...'70 Nova.

What I wanted to add, was that keeping the air dry is really important. As it is compressed, the air heats up and creates condensation. For small parts, it may not be an issue. Large panels or extensive spraying, it becomes an issue.

Prep work sucks, I hate doing it on every single painting project that I have. Its always the last 10% of work that takes 90% of the time.


I am so close in some projects that when I get to prep work I just say forget about it and enjoy what I built, problem is I have to move it back out to the garage.
post #57 of 108
All great points and why I like using veneers.
post #58 of 108
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Funny, for a second there I thought he was going to admit "I am Iron Man"!

Incredible looking sub, but come on, no one who "sucks" at woodwork can build a sub like that, or for that matter has a DIY panel saw in their garage!!

Speaking of, where's the build thread for that saw!!

Ok well I guess there would be levels of sucking. IMO I suck at woodwork as it's about my weakest point in building, I would much rather have built this out of steel sheet filled with sand, I just didn't have the time or know if it would have worked correct, I knew MDF would though.
Panel saw was built because I have a tiny single car garage and can't have my full table saw setup so I make do with what I have. Takes up pretty much zero floor space and was a weekend project, most expensive thing about it was the circular saw. Oh and ask and ye shall receive
Download link for the panel saw
post #59 of 108
Your success in other areas probably makes you feel like your woodworking skills are not as good. Of course compared to many (Like me) your wood working skills are incredible.

I mean you have a panel saw, geesh!!!

Your internal bracing is well designed (very fancy actually) and nice and sanded down, even painted. three things I would never bother with in a sub build myself, I stick 1" thick wood strips side to side, back to front and all over the place (its a fun mess internally), painting the inside isn't needed for me since no one will ever see it anyways. Your speaker box is percisely curved and the front matches the quality of JL Gothams.

You have skillzz!!!!
post #60 of 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post

You have skillzz!!!!

^+1! Very nice.

And, I've been messing with some resins over the past few months trying to make molds for carbon fiber parts for my car.

The first time I used a fast curing resin I made such a mess! Stuff got super hot and was hardening before I could even laugh at myself for what I'd gotten myself into.
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