Hey Nick. I thought I would get back to you on a handful of things regarding cooling the room, ventilating the projector box and ventilating the rack.
First, have you had an HVAC company out to your house to measure the specs on your existing system? Not only total tons of cooling capacity, but specifically the CFM and output temperature for the supplies and the ability to add zoning. They may also be able to make adjustments to (with) the dampers to provide more cooling to this room. One other question I did not ask before - but is there a return air vent in this theater room? If not, that could be a big part of your problem as well because you have to mix the air to get adequate cooling and dehumidification. One other note, if you have sufficient cooling temperature but not enough CFM, they could also put in and in-line duct booster fan to significantly increase the output of your room.
Second, If your house is anything like mine, the builder has insulated only to minimum code. Making things worse is that you have a hot roof working its way through an R-19 minimum where your ceiling follows the roof line. In an ideal situation, you would have an R50 insulation on the back side of the ceiling, completely encapsulating the room. For the walls you could achieve an R23 with spray foam in a standard 2x4 wall. This way your room is encapsulated and is essentially the inside of a cooler, keeping the conditioned air in. They also make radiant barriers to help reject radiant heat coming through the roof deck and channel it to the ridge vent (which hopefully you have one of these). The only reason I bring this up is because no matter what you do, it sounds like this room will be a constant thermal load nightmare without addressing the insulation surrounding the room in some manner. I don't know what you have currently, but I am just throwing it out there for discussion.
Third, for your projector hush box. I know you are looking to remove the heat from the projector hush box and dump it into an adjacent space to reduce the room's thermal load. However, if you are able to sufficiently insulate cool your room through modification of your existing HVAC supply, the projector's thermal load is actually less BTU than if you had another friend in the room watching the movie with you. So as a first approach I would suggest going with the Active Thermal Management System 2 kit
. These fans are thermostatically controlled, ultra quiet and only run as hard as they need to run. I see that Panny has intakes on the side and rear of the unit, so a simple diffuser grill would suffice for the intake. The one thing I would recommend with any force-ventilated cabinet is air filtration, so installing a washable, reusable filter "sponge" similar to what many projectors use will be sufficient to stop most of the dust that would enter the hush box. If you truly want to dispose of the air somewhere outside the room then I would recommend the Active Thermal Management Cool Cube
Fourth, for the rack I would offer this very simple reconfiguration: Use a 1U vent panel with filter at the very bottom of the equipment rack. All other spaces around the equipment should be closed up tightly. At the top, simply use a 3U Middle Atlantic UQFP with thermostatic control
to pull cool air through the rack and ventilate it back into the room. Again, based on the equipment you have, the thermal load is, in reality, far less than one person being in the room from a BTU perspective. The thermostatic control operates only as hard as it needs to, keeping everything exceptionally quiet. If you wish to remove the heat from the room, I would again recommend a separate Active Thermal Management Cool Cube]Active Thermal Management Cool Cube
The Active Thermal items carry a slight premium over putting together your own system, but the premium is absolutely worth it for ease of integration and pulling in the proper CFM to cool the area instead of the guesswork involved with cobbling together an in-line fan, ducting, thermostat control, remote temperature sensor, fan speed controller, trigger mechanism, etc. I get tired just thinking about the integration demands, let alone actually putting it together. For the few extra bucks the Active Thermal system is totally worth it.
There are other companies, like Cool Components
, that make similar products to Active Thermal Management and Middle Atlantic, and at comparable prices. I just happen to have most of my experience with Active Thermal's and Middle Atlantic's products.
Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
EDIT - Fixed linkEdited by TMcG - 9/14/12 at 3:35am