Now that's funny.
When I visit my mother I chuckle when I see the VCR with a blinking clock...
Thanks, it is coming together pretty well.
The projector box is mounted to a shared wall with the stairwell. The hush box has a short duct in the back that sticks through the wall back wall of theater into stairwell. This is the cool "supply" and the duct you see leading away from box is the "return" which leads to fan in attic.
I'm not sure yet on the attachment of the glass. I always thought I would "glaze" it into the frame with silicone or something. I could put an applique on the outside if the glazing was too hideous. Any ideas?
Its a two fold effort really, heat and noise are the driving factors.
If the room is comfortable in the winter with the ventilation additions I will be ok without the mini-split. I have found that I can keep the room cold in the summer by turning down the thermostat from 78(normal temp) to like 72. However, I have fully prepared myself to go the mini-split route beginning next year if the heat is not under control. My tax return is already spent.
Even if the heat is not fully controlled the ventilation of rack and hush box to another room will help out. The noise floor will be considerably lower after the ventilation. My equipment is very loud right now. I plan on enclosing the rack with a glass door also so that noise will be completely contained also. With the rack fans, PS3(Fat loud version), EP4000, and projector fans all running the noise floor is prob 10db above what it could be. 10db is a LOT!
This UPDATE for J_P_A,
I played with the fan last night and one of those ceiling fan controllers from lowes. The fan will start even at the lowest speed setting and continue to run witout visible issue. On the outside of the fan is a capacitor and I was not able to see any centrifugal switch which would take it out of the power supply line. Therefore I assume its in-line all the time and doesn't drop out. I don't see any need to slow it below the middle speed setting for my application. When I slowed it to half setting the air flow appeared to be the minimum I would expect needed to move the air over the required distance accounting for frictional loss. Honestly, I probably won't need to slow it at all the 240cfm seems about right.
Yup, future generations won't know what the phrase "Be Kind, Rewind" means or that they used to charge a rewind surcharge if you returned a tape to the rental store without rewinding!!!!! Gosh, I just had a flashback of me standing in front of the VCR waiting for it to rewind so I could put it back in the case.........
Or cleaning the "heads" with erasers!
Or pulling out a crumpled mess BC the player ate the tape!
Haha, that would be cool. Where was that suggestion a week ago!? I already trashed all the insides, although i did ponder keeping the power supply but decided it was too weak to use for any of my other DIY projects. It might would have worked for a DIY pre-amp or something......
This weeks been pretty steady. I started playing with Durham's Water Putty this week. I saw it used in curved speaker cabinets as a filler putty for kerfs in bent MDF. This is a large gap putty that doesn't shrink and cures "rock hard." Man this stuff does cure hard, it doesn't hardly sand even.... After ventilation and Acoustic Treatments you might see this stuff in action with my DIY SEOS build. I wanted to use it to see how it works and it works great. I used it to fill in the odd shapes and gaps in the VCR face so its flat and presentable. Maybe some pics on that tonight before round two of sanding and filling. My biggest gripe with wood putty is it dries out before I use it all up. This stuff is powder and you mix up what you need and the rest is good forever.....
I've spent a lot of time with my crimping pliers this week routing wires in the VCR chassis. The relays came in yesterday but the long thermocouple and the 24V alarms are not delivered yet. Those are the last two items I'm waiting on to finish up the fan install.
Order of tasks to finish fan Install:
Task List Update:
Order of tasks to finish fan Install:
Chassis is coming along. Final assembly is awaiting final paint to dry and the long thermocouple.
I forgot to take a pic while I installed the duct to the bottom of the rack, but here's an afterthought shot.
Here you can see where I ran the cool air supply ducts into the stairwell leading up to theater..... Not the prettiest grills but anyone on these stairs is on their way up to the theater anyways. I wouldn't want these in my living room but theyre ok here.
Proof work being done. ;)
Minor Setback, it appears I did not understand the architecture of the relay board completely. I quickly read the description and although in broken English thought I understood what they meant. Apparently this relay board couples the contact voltage to the coil voltage with a transistor. I assume this is to ensure the coil voltage is stable and the relay remains closed.
Now here's the rub, the description stated a 24V contact voltage, but the actual relay was rated 240V 10A which mislead me into thinking the board would be "happy" with 120V contact voltage. Needless to say that transistor which was expecting 24V Went up in a fraction of a second making a nice little bang, a little bit of spark, and let all its magic smoke out........ HAHA, scared the Shitake mushrooms out of my girlfriend!!!!
No worries, I had the controller chassis properly grounded and fused. It took out the fuse and the transistor on the relay board. Hopefully the controller did not suffer any damage.
I am going to disassemble the relay board and in the spirit of Halloween Frankenstein the relays and terminals onto a through hole board, thats the project for the tonight.
So since I blew up the original relay board, I decided to do what any self respecting DIY man would. I DIYed my my relay board from the pieces that weren't destroyed by my misunderstanding. One trip to radioshack for a perforated board and some solid copper wire......and
Next we finish mounting that relay board into our SEEEEXY chassis.......
All Done! But Still photos are boring, want to see it all work?
Yeah its pretty hard to look at the parts(SEOS) sitting in the box, so I put them into my attic. I've got all the parts except the crossover components and hope to get started after the new year.
Realistically I would just like to finish this vent project before Christmas. Covering up the back soffit will transition me into my serious phase of Acoustic treatments since I have to buy the acoustic fabric to finish up the back soffit install.
Updated to-do list for finishing Ventilation install:
Order of tasks to finish fan Install:
UPDATE: This weekend might be the final push to get the ventilation installed and functional. Not pretty mind you, but functional.
Yeah its crazy clear.....
Update I finished the install of the ventilation.... Oh Happy Day! I am so tired of crawling around my attic.
A little adjustment of the "hysteresis" setting on the controllers has them coming on and off as needed. The rack ventilation comes on twice every three hours for about 10 minutes each time..
The projector fan comes on and keeps the outlet temp within 5 degrees of what it ran free-air.
The AVR runs at exactly the same temp as when I had the old case fan setup.
Noticeable reduction in noise with the projector in the box and the reduced fans in the room, too soon to tell about the heat as I havent spent enough time with it yet.
So far I'm stoked! I'll put up some pics tomorrow, but one pic to show my misery today while crawling around attic....