Official Panasonic GT20/25 Owner's Thread! - Page 55

The only two ways I can hear an audible buzz from mine is if I either almost put my ear up to it (with TV or movies) or if I have it set on "vivid" running the all white slide, in which case I can hear a very faint buzz for a couple feet away.

I'm on my second GT25 50". It buzzes less than the first one, but it still buzzes just like you describe yours here. Audible buzzing, even over dialogue, from 8 feet away.

I am not interested in a third GT25, but from what folks are saying, I am interested in the ST30. It seems like it may truly buzz less.

Question for those that have hooked up a laptop to the P50GT25:

What is the optimal resolution to output at?

1920x1080

nutdonet, my 50GT25 will have 100 hours of slide break-in his weekend and i was wondering if these settings were anything close to yours.....so i could use your settings.

same here...i can only hear a faint buzz if i put my ear right next to the top of the tv, and that's only if it's a really bright scene.

Crazy thought, but the fact that some people claim that the buzz is extremely loud, while others hear almost nothing, reminds me of an iphone app i played around with called kids b gone. The app plays an annoying sound at varying frequencies according to what you choose. You chose the frequencies based on age....the higher frequencies supposedly could only be heard by people below a certain age. The interesting thing was that it actually works, to varying degrees. From what i've read, a similar device is used in some schools in europe, to drive children back in to class from recess. So anyway, i guess it's possible this buzzing is at a frequency that only younger people, and people who haven't abused their ears (i.e. headphones, concerts, etc.) can hear clearly.

FYI, Home Theater magazine's review of the P50GT25 was posted on their website today.

I'm a medical student and can tell you that you do lose your ability to hear high pitched sounds as you age due to the natural loss of cells called "outer hair cells" (age-related hearing loss, or presbycusis). This process starts as early as age 18. This can, perhaps, account for why many can't hear the whistling noises these units sometimes emit, but the normal buzzing is probably audible if anyone tries hard enough. Of course, I can't be sure because I don't know how high the frequency of the buzzing sound is, so I'm guessing based on what I've learned/seen.

The iPhone app you used probably had a very high pitch.

I've heard this "old" people theory before and I dont buy it. I think its convienent to pawn this off as some hearing deficiency when it could just be a defective set. FYI I'm 48 and have never "abused" my ears and I hear no buzz even when the sound is muted.

The only issue I've had with my GT25 50" is some IR that I got from gaming (I left the static images on too long, my own darn fault). I've been running some video content in torch mode to "burn out" the IR, and it has reduced it to the point of only seeing it on really light colored screens, and that's if I'm right next to the screen. I've read it takes about a month or so for this stuff to work itself out, so I don't plan on gaming on mine until I get rid of it, and even then I may just stay with my LCD for gaming. I enjoy the PQ on the GT25 too much to risk ruining it for other viewing activities.

posting again for the new comers here.

i have 2 50 inchers. no buzzing at all. 3D is amazing. i have absued my ears in my earlier days (im 39).

never ran any slides or babied these suckers. i bought them and laid them FLAT in the back of the SUV for the entire way home. ran THX mode since day one and i have now h ad these cats for about 2 months now maybe? ish?

one has a htpc with HDMI out to the sony AV and the other has a sony s-770 BD player with another sony AV ... these tvs are good lookin',,,

Lots of folks say what you are saying: NO BUZZ.

And then lots of other folks, including those who do professional calibration say, THEY ALL BUZZ.

All I know is that I've had two GT25s and they've both buzzed. And when I talk about looking for one that doesn't buzz, some folks tell me to give it up.

Mine is a 46PGT24 (Costco) and there is no buzz other than what one would expect if you put your ear up against it. No buzz at all noticeable starting from a foot away. It is an Oct 2010 build.

haha maybe you are. With that same test, I can hear mine from 6-10 ft away. When I watch or play a game in 3d, it's even louder.

I am picking up TCP50GT25 in the coming weeks and wanted to know thoughts on the best 3D BD player for it. Is it best to pair a Panasonic 3DBR player with it? How does the 350 compare to the 210 in terms of picture and audio quality output?

Pricing for the 210 seems pretty awesome at $180 w Avatar 3D DVD.

Opinions?

Also, will still need glasses. What is the best? how are the 3rd party glasses?

Regards,

Dave

I feel for ya bro. I dont doubt for one minute your set buzzes, I can only report what I've experienced with my set. I also have a older px80u that I never heard a peep out of of.

I thought this was a good review and they provided some of their THX 2D and Custom 3D calibration settings:

2D
Picture mode: THX
Contrast: 50
Brightness: 58
Color: 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Color temp: Warm2
Color mgmt.: Off
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off
Blur reduction: Off
Aspect adjustments


Screen format: As required
HD Size: Size 2
HDMI/DVI RGB Range: Auto
Advanced Picture

Black level: Light
24p Direct in: 48Hz or 60Hz (as available)


3D
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 60
Color: 46
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 50
Color temp: Warm2
Color mgmt.: Off
x.v.Color: Off
C.A.T.S.: Off
Video NR: Off
Blur reduction: Off
Aspect adjustments


Screen format: As required
HD Size: Size 2
Pro Settings
W/B high R, +2
W/B high B, +4
W/B low R, +4
W/B low B, -36
Black extension: Off
Gamma adjustment: 2.2
Panel brightness: Med
Contour emphasis: Off
A.G.C.: +15
Aspect adjustments (3D)

HD Size: Size 2
HDMI/DVI RGB Range: Auto
Advanced Picture

Mosquito NR: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Auto
24p Direct in: 48Hz or 60Hz (as available)
3D menu

3D input format: Auto, or as needed
Left/Right swap: Normal
Diagonal line filter: Off

I was lucky and found the "Ultimate" pack of glasses w/ Avatar for $199 on eBay. It is usually more, in fact even the vendor I bought them from raised the price to 269.

Since I had Avatar, I didn't feel the need to buy a Panny player, so I bought the Oppo BDP 93. It is an incredible player, as much for audio as for video. I immediately sold my tube DAC since the audio processing within this player was superior. It is also as near to a universal player as you'll find. I have a small collection of DVD-A and SACD, and this player has 7.1 analog out, plus 2 HDMI outs. Lots of options.

Is there any 3d image quality differences between players?

any 3D settings for Nutdotnet offset

I also own the oppo 93 player. its a fine player like the other poster has said. I also have the panasonic 210 model and the ps3. I am getting the tv next week.
anyone use the vudu from the ps3 and played a 3d movie from it?
Jacob

Have a theory I'd like to get some opinions on. Assuming Nut's offsets are good(havent heard otherwise):

1. convert "nuts factory offsets" to decimal and then determine ending value.
2. convert "your factory offsets" to decimal and then make your offset adjustments to obtain the same ending value.

In theory you should end up with the same result as Nutdotnet, of course there are differences in viewing environment etc. Any reason that wouldnt work ?

Just realized I had the cuts and drives listed backwards, I'll repost the PDF once I fix that.

Huh?

Guess I didnt do a very good job of explaining. If you've followed this thread there have been alot of different factory offset values. Mine differ from Nutdotnet's and I'm sure yours vary too. He did calibration and came up with a set of values, for example his factory rdrv setting is 7d(hex) which converts to 125 decimal. His calibration showed and offset adjustment of -2 which gives an ending value of 123 decimal or 7b(hex). If you factory rdrv setting is higher or lower all you would have to do is adjust your offset adjustment to achieve the same ending value which is 123 decimal or 7b(hex). Make sense ?

Isn't that the same thing as just listing his calibrated offset values and then setting those manually?

I have low R-DRV and tried doing that on mine but the result was no good. (by setting his default values before applying the offset adjustments)

No I dont think thats the same thing, I'm just trying to get to his ending values while accounting for my factory settings. I can't calculate the hex difference in my head so I converted it to decimal so i could see what the starting and ending values were. I havent actually tried it on my set yet. I'll do that and then let you know how it comes out.

So far example his r cut is -25, mine will be -6 because my rdrv started out lower. His b cut is -2 mine will be -15 because my bdrv started out higher.

It's like a room full of people talking loud in here. Lol so many questions being asked. How can anyone hear? :-)

So yeah I have a sony s770 be player on one of the tvs and I ps3 on the other.

I have the latest generation Panna glasses. They are incredible!

I have seen the vudu movie on the tv thru the ps3. Worked and looked beautiful.

Isn't that the wrong way to do this? The assumption is that we all have sets calibrated at the factory to look approximately the same. Every panel is somewhat different and the service menu settings are trying to bring them all in line to a 6500K greyscale. The problem is nobody here thinks they did a very good job. If every set were calibrated to be exactly the same in greyscale, then we can use the same offsets to change them the same amounts. That unfortunately only works if the sets really looked the same out of the box.

If you set your ending results to match anybody else's ending results you've now not allowed for panel variation.

The bottom line is you need to have a standard and a metering system to reach that standard. That's what the professional (and amateur) calibrators do.

Not claiming to be an expert or that I'm even interpreting things correctly. But I know some folks ended up with a green tint on their picture after applying some of nutdotnets offsets. Thought the theory there was because of the different factory offsets. But just from my novice point of view if you have a high red drv setting out of the factory and apply an offset for that on your low red drv display wouldnt that make your set too low red drv wise ?

As far as the meter didnt Nut do that for us already. Wouldnt the "standard be the standard" regardless of the starting point ? Maybe my logic is flawed, at any rate I've made the offset changes and they look pretty good to me. Guess if I ever get a meter I'll check to see if I'm even remotely close.

I just recently purchased the 42" GT25, I decided to hold off on glasses for now until I can research some more on the different type of models and which ones work better than others. Do you or anyone else have any input? Should I buy separately or go for one of the 2 pack/movie tie-ins?