Official Panasonic GT20/25 Owner's Thread! - Page 56

Originally Posted by chunon

Not claiming to be an expert or that I'm even interpreting things correctly. But I know some folks ended up with a green tint on their picture after applying some of nutdotnets offsets. Thought the theory there was because of the different factory offsets. But just from my novice point of view if you have a high red drv setting out of the factory and apply an offset for that on your low red drv display wouldnt that make your set too low red drv wise ?

As far as the meter didnt Nut do that for us already. Wouldnt the "standard be the standard" regardless of the starting point ? Maybe my logic is flawed, at any rate I've made the offset changes and they look pretty good to me. Guess if I ever get a meter I'll check to see if I'm even remotely close.

Originally Posted by Ares78

I just recently purchased the 42" GT25, I decided to hold off on glasses for now until I can research some more on the different type of models and which ones work better than others. Do you or anyone else have any input? Should I buy separately or go for one of the 2 pack/movie tie-ins?

Originally Posted by zacster

Go on eBay and wait for a good "buy it now" deal. The movie tie-ins are only a good deal if you like the movies and don't pay extra for them. You really only have 3 choices: The original Pannys, the rechargeable Pannys, and the Xpands. What I dislike about my rechargeable glasses is that they don't block the light. I bought two in the "Ultimate" pack w/ Avatar, and I could use another 2 at least, so I'll try the others too.

Originally Posted by Zodduska

Isn't that the same thing as just listing his calibrated offset values and then setting those manually?

I have low R-DRV and tried doing that on mine but the result was no good. (by setting his default values before applying the offset adjustments)

Originally Posted by philconners

Zodduska, do you mind sharing your latest low r-drv settings? I think you've mentioned them but not fully posted them - sorry if I've missed them.

I'm still not able to completely overlook the grayscale issues - never realized how important this was to me until this set...

Originally Posted by zacster

That's my point. If your set was EXACTLY the same as his, the settings would work. But no two sets are exactly the same. The different factory offsets are trying to correct for the differences. IF they were to all be factory calibrated to the exact same grey scale and color standards, then the offsets would also work. And they actually do up to a certain point. If you try to use the ABSOLUTE settings, then you've lost the factory standard.

All this assumes that the offsets also are consistent. If you change R-Drv by +3, you get the same amount of change going from F7 to FA as from 3D to 40.

In any case, when I tried the offsets the picture was awful. My R-Drv factory setting is very low compared to Nutdotnet's. My guess is increase R-Cut and B-Cut a tiny bit and see. It's at the low end of the brightness where I see a green push.

Using a calibrated meter, you can read the actual output of the set and adjust to the standard. More here.

Originally Posted by philconners

Zodduska, do you mind sharing your latest low r-drv settings? I think you've mentioned them but not fully posted them - sorry if I've missed them.

I'm still not able to completely overlook the grayscale issues - never realized how important this was to me until this set...

Originally Posted by Zodduska

Thats weird, with the Delta-E's you achieved I wouldn't think it should be visible unless the trouble areas fall between the measured 5% increments. I wonder how that test looks on professionally calibrated plasmas, whether or not its pure gray or still has visible color. I sure hope its not impossible to get rid of, those color tints really bother me. Might be a good question for D-Nice.

Originally Posted by mpritc1019

My last LCD would automatically stretch a 4:3 image so you did not see the black bars on the sides. Does this TV have that option? I know that you can push the format button on the remote but the other TV did it automatically. Thanks for all the help guys!

Originally Posted by C17chief

Finally have >100hrs and started to play with my settings.

First off, here are my factory offsets just to throw another set out there for comparison sake, since there seems to be quite a range on these. This is on a september build 50" set. Numbers are from the warm catagory in service menu.

R cut: 7D
G cut: 80
B cut: 7F
R drv: E2
G drv: FF
B drv: 63

all cut: 80
all drv: FF

With my attempt to dial it in some, I am using the AVS disc in conjunction with the color filter insert from an old DVE dvd. Adjusted both custom and THX in this manner.

Under basic settings:

Black level: 16 is solid, 17 flashing faintly, and of course progressively more visible the higher up it goes.

White level: almost the entire range flashing. dialed it down to where 253 is solid

The pattern with both black and white for clipping... same results as above

Color/tint pattern: everything solid w/ no flashing through the blue filter there.

Under Misc-Additional:

Gray scale steps: Noticed the same as recently mentioned....seems to be some random greenish tint to some boxes, some pinkish/reddish in others, while yet others look completely gray.

Color steps: Each step looks consistent except for green, which the brightest 2 boxes blend together.

Color clipping: blue and red look fine flashing up to 233 and leaving 235 solid, but I get no flashing at all from green.

Under Misc - Various:

Flashing primary colors: Blue is perfect, no flashing at all. Both red and green very visably flash when looking through respective color filter

Flashing color decoder: Blue again is spot on. Green doesnt fully match up to anything, but appears that +18 is the closest match as before that it is noticeably lighter and beyond that is darker. Red matches to nothing at all, even the -30 bar is clearly darker then the background.


The settings I ended up with after doing the above using HDMI 1:

Custom:

Contrast: 63
Brightness: 66
Color: 46
tint: 0
Sharpness: 11
color temp: warm2
gama: 2.2
panel: mid
black level: light
everything else turned off except blur reduction

THX:

Contrast: 53
Brightness: 61
Color: 56
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 11
Color temp: warm2
Black level: light
everything turned off except blur reduction

I'm not sure if the gama is right for custom, but I dont know how to go about that one as far as what SHOULD be propper given my limited knowledge and simply using AVS disc and color filters. Overall both inputs look similar with custom being slightly brighter. Green bugs me since it's not perfect in the steps, doesnt flash at all in the color clipping screen, doesnt match up in the decoder screen, and is clearly visible through the filter in the flashing primary colors screen. Red I dont know what to think. It looks fine in the color clipping screen, but doesnt match anything in the decoder screen, and is also clearly visible in the flashing primary colors. I am assuming that the red and green color filters that came with the DVE dvd are still good/correct even though it is from SD days as far as the shade goes and all. Picture certainly doesnt look bad to me as it sits right now, but at least from a technical standpoint it certainly seems it can be dialed in closer even in this manner, nevermind with a meter and such. Any suggestions?


edit -- After more digging around....I'm not sure what is up with red and green on some of the AVS disc screens, however as mentioned, the picture does look pretty good, and looking back through this thread, it appears that my offsets are VERY similar to gas leak's. As far as THX goes, I noticed that I ended up close to what he ended up with on the final batch of settings he posted up. Custom was different between mine and his, but after trying out his and running the same screens of the AVS disc, all still seems pretty equal there, just a brighter picture (and some audible buzzing on white screens now). Therefore I think I will leave it at that for the quick and dirty dial in. I kept my THX settings, but left Gas leak's Custom settings for day time viewing.

Originally Posted by mpritc1019

I am watching the NCAA Tournament and it really bothers me that it looks grainy when they are running down the court. I keep seeing it. If it happens during football season, I don't know what I will do.
If it is the compression they are using, it is surprising that they would do it during the national broadcast of the NCAA Tournament.

Originally Posted by mpritc1019

I am watching the NCAA Tournament and it really bothers me that it looks grainy when they are running down the court. I keep seeing it. If it happens during football season, I don't know what I will do.
If it is the compression they are using, it is surprising that they would do it during the national broadcast of the NCAA Tournament.

Originally Posted by JukeBox360

Quick question. I currently own a 50G20. I can get the GT25(50 inch) for the same price. Is there any reason for me not to get the Gt? Dies the PQ look like the G20> Personally. I think the G20 set looks AMAZING. So i don't want to bother with the GT if it's 2D performance isn't on par with the G20.

Originally Posted by ellpolo_loco


Well from somebody that traded his 8 month old G20 50' for a brand new 46' GT24 ( costco version ) I do not regret it at all. The one thing that drove me nuts about the G20 was the "rising blacks." it was really noticable to me but I still loved my G20 enough to keep it. Now the GT24 does have rising blacks too but its soo minimal compared to the G20 that I rarely notice it.

The GT does have slightly more dithering but that doesnt bother me you cant see it at a proper viewing distance. The blacks seem better to me and the fast switching phospers are great I could tell the difference right away with gaming and fast action Blurays. The one thing that is a negative on the GT24 is the panel seems to wash out more in bright lighting conditions than the G20 series did.

There is also talk that the GT panel has more IR than the G20. On the G20 I have IR that I got early on after break in slides and it never went away. Granted it was so minimal the person I traded with didnt mind but it bummed me out. As of yet on the GT24 I have no issues with IR and I game 50% of the time.

The panel of the GT series seems superior to me in 2D than the the G series. Now when you add 3D to that then its a home run for me. Hope that helps either way they are both great sets so you cant go wrong.

Originally Posted by JukeBox360

Quick question. I currently own a 50G20. I can get the GT25(50 inch) for the same price. Is there any reason for me not to get the Gt? Dies the PQ look like the G20> Personally. I think the G20 set looks AMAZING. So i don't want to bother with the GT if it's 2D performance isn't on par with the G20.

Originally Posted by grif32

I own the G10 and now the GT25, and IMHO the G10 has a much better PQ then the GT25. But I wanted 3D and another TV and at the price I got the GT25 i couldn't pass it up.

Originally Posted by grif32


I own the G10 and now the GT25, and IMHO the G10 has a much better PQ then the GT25. But I wanted 3D and another TV and at the price I got the GT25 i couldn't pass it up.