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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 
ProjectorCentral has a calculator that estimates how bright an image will be for a given projector, screen size, and gain: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm I've inserted a link to the Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 since its 1200 Lumens is a match to the new JVC models. A 72" wide, 1.3 gain screen should provide an "Image Brightness: 22 fL". If you were to upgrade to a 2.4 gain screen (Da-Lite High Power) the image brightness would jump to 40 fL. If your current screen doesn't have the horsepower you prefer for 3D you may need to investigate screen upgrade options.
ProjectorCentral has a calculator that estimates how bright an image will be for a given projector, screen size, and gain: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epso...ulator-pro.htm I've inserted a link to the Epson PowerLite Pro Cinema 1080 since its 1200 Lumens is a match to the new JVC models. A 72" wide, 1.3 gain screen should provide an "Image Brightness: 22 fL". If you were to upgrade to a 2.4 gain screen (Da-Lite High Power) the image brightness would jump to 40 fL. If your current screen doesn't have the horsepower you prefer for 3D you may need to investigate screen upgrade options.
There's something misleading with that calculation if you have an actual 1200 lumen output. An actual 1200 lumen projector output onto a 72" wide screen with a gain of 1.3 will produce much more like 65 Foot Lamberts (FL). It appears the Projector Central calculator uses an estimate of the calibrated D65 light output for the specific projector you select, which in the case of the Epson 1080 is much lower than ANSI 1200 lumens (closer to 1/3 that value). Below is what Projector Central says about its Calculator (LINK):
"When it comes to home theater projectors, brighter is definitely not better. What you want is a projector that produces enough light to fill your screen with good contrast, but not so bright that it creates eye fatigue when viewed for any length of time.
It is safe to ignore the published ANSI lumen rating—it is irrelevant for a variety of reasons. Instead, use our Projection Calculator (also available from the left navigation bar) to determine the brightness characteristics of the model you are looking at. It lets you factor in your screen size and its gain rating if you know it. In a dark room, a luminance level on the screen in the range of 12 to 22 fL is in the ideal comfort range, and the calculator defaults to 16 fL to give you a starting point.
In theory, lumens and foot-Lamberts are related—one foot-Lambert of luminance is equal to one lumen per square foot. But there is no direct relationship between the ANSI lumen ratings from the manufacturer and the foot-Lambert measurements as reported in the Calculator. That is because the Calculator factors in reduced lumen outputs for video optimization and average lamp usage, in order to estimate a typical viewing experience.
If you don't want to set up a dark home theater and would rather have some low ambient light, you may prefer to get the screen luminance up into the range of 30 to 50 fL. A brighter picture will help compensate for the loss of contrast caused by ambient light. For each model you may be considering, the Calculator can be used to give you estimates of the screen size and screen gain needed to get that brighter picture." A good example using the Projector Central Calculator is to select a JVC HD950 projector (with a manufacturer rating of 900 ANSI lumen, but unlike the Epson model you selected, JVC rated lumens are closer to the actual lumens of output calibrated at D65 when the projector has a new bulb). With a 72" wide screen with a gain of 1.3 the calculator shows a much brighter 45 FL of brightness. It appears the Projector Central Calculator uses 700 lumens for their calculation when the JVC HD950 is selected and I would assume they did this to reflect the effect of some bulb aging. This should be in the ballpark of (or perhaps just a little less than) what you could expect using the new JVC projectors (i.e., RS40. RS50, RS60) at their D65 calibrated setting and using the high lamp mode and the manual iris set to fully open (where they my have 1000+ lumen output with a new bulb and perhaps still have 800 lumens after a moderate number of hours of use).
). Putting the glasses in front of the camcorder was I guess an attempt to show the change in brightness, not how you're supposed to see the content when you wear the glasses. If you don't watch the clip with the glasses synced to the content (and with the right part of the picture going to each eye), you can't even start to assess what it would look like when wearing the glasses.
