Here's my driver's and crossovers. The upgraded XO's with the Clarity caps and Mill's are on the hardboard. Jed's latest upgraded crossovers come on PCB board and are GOOP glued according to a post of his made on HTguide. The PCB boards shown are standard XO's for the 4cc that I will build when I'm back from my military stuff.
You can also see my TV and stand in the background. The TV will eventually go on the wall, the stand will be replaced with a much bigger one that I build later, and the 4cc will be close to the same width as the TV.
I mark my straight edge 1.5" farther than where I need to cut.
Here my straight edge is clamped and I run my saw down it. My blade sits 1.5" away from the edge of it, which is why I have pencil lines no where near where I cut.
Panel cut. Also, you can see my nice Kingsford work bench.
Because I don't have a table saw to use, my panels/braces are not perfect and need to be squared.
More sanding, braces and panels. Luckily I over cut them a tiny bit in order to sand them to size.
Dry fitting before cutting the rear MF/HF chamber panel down to 14"
Clamping my first brace. Because I don't have many clamps (only two that can clamp more than 6") I have to glue braces together that I can later use to support gluing on large panels.
Here the brace is glued and clamped. You can see the square still clamped to the vertical board.
I couldn't get the clamp on the lower MF/HF brace, so I had to improvise in order to keep things square. This idea ended up sucking horribly because the 14" brace ended up moving while drilling and then when I went to glue it, it wasn't square. It wasn't off by much and was easily smashed flat against the side panel with a few weights. Pics to come later.
Clamping the MF/HF chamber braces. That nice H-frame will give the enclosure support for all subsequent gluing. This one didn't use dowels and to keep it square I clamped it to another board with my little C-clamps and my square to make sure it wasn't twisted.
Dry fitting the braces. To make sure my measurements were right, I used drivers to make sure the spacing is correct.
^Double IPA lending a hand.
Marking all the bracing. You can see the MF/HF chamber braces in the background.
I glued two braces because I had two clamps. To make sure things are lined up, I used my side panels as guides and layed some wax paper down to keep from the gluing the braces to the side panel.
Here I tried to glue 3 braces at once. I ended up using both H-frames for support. By the way, that long skinny piece of MDF spanning all my braces is the excess on my full 4x8 sheet of MDF that I cut the 4 side panels, two outer baffles and one inner baffle.
Now I glued the H-frame (the one on the left). The lower weights are to help keep the supporting top panel stable.
Marking the drill hole for cutting out the ports.
Cutting the recess in order to flush mount the port. I then cut the hole much too small and had to enlarge it with a jig saw. I used a round over and orbital sander to slowly trim away the wood. I tried to keep as much material as possible. More pics on that later.
Gluing the side panel on. You can see my clamps are put to good use and also why I had to have those H-frames done in order to glue on the side panel. Oh, the work area has changed a bit from my previous pictures. Don't be surprised if your wife kicks you out of the living room and into the kid's playroom. That's one of the banes of not having a workshop.
I have all the lines and drill points marked, but I don't have a drill press or wood bits. Those V pointed drill bits tend to move, so to help keep them on center, I use a nail to make a stater hole to hold my drill bit. I started with a 5/64" bit and worked my way up to 1/8"
Here you can see the pilot holes started by my nail.