2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 36

I was having a problem with the picture on the tv dimming , it was very subtle

At first i thought it was the lamp

But this only started happening when i added a new soundbar to the power strip

So i made some changes on the 2 power strips

I put the tv plug with the most low powered devices


And now the dimming/flickering is gone

So long as the HDMI switch is designed to handle High Speed HDMI cables you shouldn't have any issues.

I HIGHLY recommend that you directly connecting the soundbar to the outlet on the wall, don't use a power strip. Home theater receivers and amplifiers use a lot of power (100's and sometimes 1,000's of watts!). Some amplifiers require dedicated lines to the breaker box and use a special (higher amp) socket connection. If you connect it to a power strip then the other devices on the power strip are at an increased risk of being damaged.

The tv is located near one electric outlet
Theres only room for 2 powerstrips

Is there a better powerstrip i could get ?

I got the cheap one from staples

Plug the soundbar directly into the outlet. Then plug the power strip into the other socket on the same outlet. Then connect the second power strip to the first power strip using the plug farthest away from the cable of the first power strip. Then plug the HDTV on the first power strip to the socket closest to the power cable. Connect all your "cheap" devices on the second power strip. Anything else of high value connect to your first power strip.

This isn't an ideal setup to say the least. I would also recommend that you get higher quality power strips - the power cable should be thick, not something that looks like a lamp power cable. You should also calculate the power consumption from all the devices connected to that outlet (including the power strip) to make sure you're not overloading the circuit. This is more of an issue if you have an older breaker box - the kind with the twist in fuses. Since people often put in higher amp fuses than they should which will allow you to overload the circuit/wires but not trip the fuse.

Just ordered a 638 from Paul's TV on Buy.com for $849 shipped.

From what I read here, this maybe one of the last chances to get a 65 inch before they get rid of it...

http://www.buy.com/prod/mitsubishi-w...215884667.html

Considering how many DLP models that Mitsubishi has available I doubt there will be a shortage of 60/65" models this early. In 2010 it was possible to get 2009 models until around Spring time. Also, most consumers go for the larger sizes which is probably the main reason why Mitsubishi cut the 60/65" models from their lineup. So I would expect to see the 2010 60/65" models available until at least the end of the year, if not until next Spring. That's even with the 60/65" models being discontinued.

Im having a problem

I thought it was the power strip but is not

From time to time you see some flickering , is very subtle more like strobing

I changed hdmi cables and that did not fix it

Anybody know what the problem is?

The picture looks great when is not doing that

Since you were having dimming issues with the sound bar connected to the same outlet using a power strip then I would try watching your HDTV with it unplugged. Alternatively, you could plug the HDTV directly into the outlet socket. Since this is the first time you mentioned this problem here and just recently had problems when you added your sound bar.

I had to use a long ass extension cord to connect the soundbar on its own outlet far away on the other side of the room, i will see if this fixes the problem

Btw when was the tv you guys bought made ?

I checked in the back & mine says January 2011

And i got it in feb so thats good

What difference does that make?

You tell me your the expert

You asked the question, you said it was good so you're supposed to telling me, like I asked.

Hey lucid

I finally found the problem with the tv having wavy lines and dimming a little

It first started happening when i added the vizio soundbar

At first i had the soundbar in front of the tv same shelf

Then i moved the soundbar to the third shelf , still wavy strobing lines would appear some times

I thought it was the power outlet remember i changed everything around , i had the tv and soundbar in there own wall outlets

Still the same problem

Then i changed all the hdmi cables around ,that didn't fix it


Instead of connecting the soundbar to the tv i connected all my devices [cable box- wd tv] straight to the soundbar via rca & optical


Still wavy lines and strobing

So finally i removed the soundbar

And after a few hours of testing i have not seen any problems


Is the problem some sort of magnetic interference with the tv ?

Sadly, no. Unlike the older CRT screens, DLP doesn't have an issue with magnetic interference. Your problem is clearly a circuit overload issue. Even if you plug the sound bar into another outlet it can still be on the same circuit, which means it's not different than plugging it into the same outlet as your HDTV or even the power strip. Sadly, sound bars are not very efficient amp wise. I really had hoped you would've gotten that Onkyo that I recommended since it would've provided you with very enjoyable movie experiences while also solving your issue with the internal HDTV speakers. It would also be a more efficient amp/receiver so you would most likely not have the issues you are now.

If you can, please return that sound bar since it sounds like trouble from the get go. And when budget allows (along with sales) get that Onkyo home theater in a box that I recommended. If you have more to spend then I can give other recommendations. But for the buck, Onkyo's home theater systems in a box (HTIB) rock for their price. More so considering your smaller space.

Yea i spoke too soon , the strobing is back and this is without the soundbar connected to the tv or anywhere near the tv

I dont know how to describe this

But you know when you record your tv using a camera , the picture looks like is flashing very fast

Is like when you turn the light on & off very fast


Im going to call to get this repaired ,im still under the one year warranty

I would as well, sounds like the sound bar might of damaged your HDTV by being on the same circuit and with it being overloaded. Could be something completely different but since you've just got these problems when you added the sound bar that's most likely the "problem" in your system. I highly recommend that you return that sound bar since it doesn't appear to be designed to protect your other equipment. More so since you're putting EVERYTHING on one outlet/circuit.

The repair people are coming tomorrow

What are the things that they should check?

Lamp
Color wheel
Ballast
Circuit board
What else??

If they dont find anything wrong ,there going to charge me for the service call

Because these strobing wavy flickering lines happen randomly , i cant recreate it in front of the repair people

If you can't recreate the problem in front of the repair person then I wouldn't have them come out since you will be stuck with the bill. They won't randomly check things if they don't see a problem. And if they do then be prepared for a larger bill, unless they can find the problem. If you have a video camera you might want to leave it running pointed at the HDTV so to capture what you're seeing. That way you'll at least be able to show the repair person what the HDTV is doing.

Don't forget, other outlets outside that room might be part of 1 circuit. So just because the sound bar isn't connected to your HDTV doesn't mean it's not causing an issue, so long as it's still plugged in somewhere else. Also, it's summer time and if you have a window or portable AC unit running then that could be on the same circuit as well.

The issue could also be with the cable/sat. provider - they typically recompress broadcast signals which can introduce problems with the video, typically blocky or compression artifacts though. Only way to really rule that out is if you see the "strobing wavy flickering lines" occur when watching a known source, such as a Blu-ray or DVD that you've watched before.

Well i told them that the problem happens randomly ,they said they will call Mitsubishi up first

In the call back they said there going to order a "main digital board" for me but its backordered so they wont get it until september


Lucid main digital board is the same thing as the circuit board ?

So, I asked a number of questions and Lucid was kind enough to give me his thoughts, after a lot of messing around myself, I thought I'd post my experience to help out the next guy.


Yes.


Yes, no adaptor needed


No, drivers are not needed.


Yes, no quality difference noticed at all. Of course, the DVI does not carry audio, but I use a fiber connection to the surround system so it doesn't matter.


No, HD3D is not needed.


I think Lucid answered this question better, but short answer: it is within the TV's menu, not the adaptor or the software.


I have been using Powerdvd 11.


Things that worked:
1) hdmi to hdmi or dvi to hdmi both work fine with this setup, with dvi to hdmi you will need another way to handle audio

2) With Powerdvd 11, going into the 3d settings, for source format setting to auto generally works, although somtimes you have to set the input manually, esp with top/bottom formats. For the output simply set to "3d-ready (checkerboard)" and you're all set. These settings will work with top/bottom, SBS, and FullHD3D for bluray 3d - with the bluray 3d, the transition to checkerboard will decrease to half rez as always, but it looks great all the same.

3) Optoma BG-ZD101 work perfectly, with no additional hardware other than the glasses. Never lost sync once yet. They turn off if you look away from the screen, which is great, and as soon as you look back at the screen they're up and running. Fit over standard glasses with no issues.

4) AMD's HD3D is irrelevant to this setup (can't say if it matters for video games) and no special drivers are required (IZ3D, etc).

5) The 3DA-1 adaptor isn't needed with the computer setup because Powerdvd is doing all the work to convert to checkerboard. So, if you are using another input like a standalone Bluray player/PS3 you may (and probably will) need the adaptor.


Problems I ran into:
1) Powerdvd + Bluray discs + Daemon Tools do not play nice together. If you put in a Bluray disc it says it can't read it or some other such nonsense. Turn off Daemon Tools and you're good to go. I switched from Daemon Tools to another similar program and it can run in the backround just fine.

2) Major problem I ran into, took me a bit to solve, was that when I originally turned on 3d, I could tell I was getting a checkerboard pattern, but when I put the glasses on I was seeing a larger checkerboard pattern... a checkerboard on a checkerboard if you will... oh, and no 3D effect.
The problem was caused because I was using the scaling option in CCC to solve the typical tv->pc overscan. You CANNOT use scaling with 3d movies, that is what caused my checkerboard on checkerboard issue, with scaling removed/set to zero, 3D suddenly appeared. hooray.

3) You cannot use the "reduce" format on the tv and turn on "3D mode". This is an issue within the TV itself, if you have reduce format on then 3d mode is simply greyed out/not selectable.
So, you will always have a slight overscan when using 3D. Its not much and really doesn't seem to detract. If anyone has thoughts on how to solve the slight overscan I'm all ears.

4) So far, I've had no success using VLC or MPC-HC to play 3D content. Never did try TMT5, so can't say either way on it.

Sorry for the long post, thought it might help others. If anyone has thoughts on the overscan issue, let me know.

I've had this TV since November and really am liking it.

One problem I have though is the sound. The way my room is setup, the TV is 13"-14" feet back from where we sit. This causes sound issues -- more so us hearing the sound than anything else because the speakers are in the back and it just sounds a bit hollow.

We mainly use the TV for OTA and we have an AppleTV hooked up via HDMI. I'm not looking for surround sound, so I was looking at those soundbars.

My question is.. for those of you who have this TV, do you have a soundbar hooked up and how to do you like it? Also, does it work with OTA? I've read some people having issues with OTA sound.

I looked at the back of my TV, and the only sound output is the digital output. I assume that is what you'd use to hookup the soundbar?

Thanks..

Well for everybody else in the world the vizio soundbar works fine with there mitsubishi dlp

You can get them at walmart or amazon for $99

The sound is very good



Oh yes the Mitsubishi tv only has coaxial audio out


Go to monoprice.com & buy the following


Coaxial (RCA) to Optical converter ~ price $11


Coaxial digital cable ~ price $3

Optical digital cable ~ price $3


Just connect all your devices to the tv via hdmi & connect the soundbar to the back of the tv using the coaxial to optical converter

I've looked at that one -- however I don't understand how it would hook up to my TV. Unless I'm incorrect, the only output I saw on the TV was 1 digital output.

I have an OTA antenna and an HDMI connection currently plugged into the TV.

How did you mount this?

Re-read my post i posted more info

The vizio soundbar has optical & RCA in
So you need the coaxial to optical converter

Just turn the tv speakers off. And connect the soundbar to the back of the tv using the converter

Just put the soundbar in front of the tv on the same shelf

Or on the second shelf , for best sound it has to be ear-level

new firmware at http://support.mitsubishi-tv.com/documents/WD-73C10
anybody have a clue what it does?

I have no clue, would need to know the exact item they're replacing.

No clue what it does but i just updated the firmware on my 638