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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 37

post #1081 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by pseudonym View Post

had an interesting occurrence a few weeks ago. i was watching some HDTV and saw what looked like an effect from a commercial. it looked like large flies were appearing and disappearing on the screen. i paused the show and it continued. well what it turned out to be was a couple moths found their way into the television and were fluttering around the bulb. i had to take apart not only the bulb section but the entire rear portion of my 60638 to vacuum any debris i could find. has this happened to anyone else?

Common problem since RPTV's are a "open" system. If you live in an area that has a lot of flying bugs then expect to clean the inside of your RP HDTV once a year. I also think if people clean the back part of the screen that they'll eliminate the screen grain effect that most seem to complain about when solid colors are displayed, especially on a solid white screen
post #1082 of 1375
oof, i dont even know how to get to the screen but that effect youre referring to only seems to happen to me on a white screen and i only focused on it after i just bought the set. im not gonna worry about it. the bugs, however, were abit more intrusive on my viewing pleasure.
post #1083 of 1375
what are the signs that a light engine is failing on these tvs ?
post #1084 of 1375
anyone figure out what the firmware update was for?
post #1085 of 1375
i posted a while back about having some Dimming problems almost looks like Fluorescent lights blinking very fast , after adding a soundbar into the mix

i also had an Air Conditioner running in the same room


the picture started to dim some times

i dont think is the lamp cause the picture looks fine and the tv turns off and on perfect

im using some cheap power surge protectors

after researching to buy a better one

i found this in an amazon review



Quote:


Monster MP PRO 3500 12-Outlet Power Center with Stage 3 Clean Power (Electronics)
I bought a Mitsubishi WD-73734 TV, and was having problems with the picture getting dim, and occasionally the TV would just shut off. I had the TV hooked up to a power strip, but this did nothing to ensure the TV was getting clean, stable voltage. I never thought these line conditioners really made a difference, but I did research into the problem I was having, and decided this is what I needed. It comes with plenty of outlets, so I could connect all my stereo and video components through this. After observing the TV after connecting the MP Pro, I never had the problems I experienced earlier. These products really do make a difference! Also the display is very pleasant to look at, and the unit comes with a flexible light.


this is the same problem im having now


but that Monster MP PRO 3500 is too expensive for me


would this one work ok


http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-HTS...5284990&sr=8-1

or this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

i really dont think theres anything wrong with the tv

i called the repair people and they ordered a DM board but it will take a long time for them to get it
post #1086 of 1375
i know very little about power centers but i do know that anything with "monster" stamped on it can be had for far cheaper with oftentimes better quality after abit of research. my apologies for not actually pointing you in any specific direction, but thats the best advice i can give.
post #1087 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

i really dont think theres anything wrong with the tv

i called the repair people and they ordered a DM board but it will take a long time for them to get it

As I mentioned before, you most likely have a circuit overload - not a power surge problem. The real solution is to reduce how many things are attached on the same circuit so your issue doesn't occur. Call an electrician to figure out your problem so that an appropriate solution can be obtained.
post #1088 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

As I mentioned before, you most likely have a circuit overload - not a power surge problem. The real solution is to reduce how many things are attached on the same circuit so your issue doesn't occur. Call an electrician to figure out your problem so that an appropriate solution can be obtained.

Would this help?

I have my DVR and TV on this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16842107125
post #1089 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post


As I mentioned before, you most likely have a circuit overload - not a power surge problem. The real solution is to reduce how many things are attached on the same circuit so your issue doesn't occur. Call an electrician to figure out your problem so that an appropriate solution can be obtained.

Thats not an option right now unless i move
post #1090 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by acaoacao View Post


Would this help?

I have my DVR and TV on this.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16842107125

This is more like it , how does it work

You connect the tv to the back of this
post #1091 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post
This is more like it , how does it work

You connect the tv to the back of this

It is an AVR. This thing boost voltage to your electronics if it is too low and reduces it if it is too high. It cleans up power supplied to your sensitive electronics
post #1092 of 1375
Well Guys i finally pulled the trigger and bought the stuff needed to watch 3D tv from the television... I bought the initial 3D Kit and I also bought a pair of Universal 3D glasses to work with the existing Emitter that Mit. gives....So that with the 2 pairs of glasses included i have 3 pairs of glasses now. Hopefully all works out i will Update when the stuff arrives. P.S i will be using my PS3 to watch 3D blurays.
post #1093 of 1375
When i had the 3d equipment i had trouble finding good 3d content to watch

Most of the stuff i saw where nature shows ,kids movies or not too great movies

I had avatar in 3d which was good tho
post #1094 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

When i had the 3d equipment i had trouble finding good 3d content to watch

Most of the stuff i saw where nature shows ,kids movies or not too great movies

I had avatar in 3d which was good tho

I bought 2 3D horror movies(i am a horror fanatic), My Bloody Valentine and Final Destination 4. ...Recently saw Final destination 5 at the theater in 3D and Loved it..Cant wait for that to hit the bluray 3d shelf.
post #1095 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Thats not an option right now unless i move

Circuit overloads that don't trip the fuse are a fire hazard. I would contact your landlord and let them know you're having an issue and you want the electrical circuits and fuse box inspected/tested by a certified electrician.
post #1096 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

Well Guys i finally pulled the trigger and bought the stuff needed to watch 3D tv from the television... I bought the initial 3D Kit and I also bought a pair of Universal 3D glasses to work with the existing Emitter that Mit. gives....So that with the 2 pairs of glasses included i have 3 pairs of glasses now. Hopefully all works out i will Update when the stuff arrives. P.S i will be using my PS3 to watch 3D blurays.

Congrads on going 3D. I'll be getting a pair of the 3D glasses and emitter before the end of the year. But I'll be using them mainly for 3D PC gaming. There's way too little "good" 3D content available to justify 3D just for movies, at least for now. Overtime the glasses will be dirt cheap. I think Sony had a recent deal where you could get a pair of their glasses for $50 or less. So prices/deals for them are getting better. But hopefully you'll find use for 3D in PC or console gaming since you'll get a lot more mileage/benefit.

Let me know how those Universal 3D glasses work since I won't be buying the Mitsubishi brand. Currently I'm looking at those 3D Heaven Rechargable Ultra-Clear HD 3D glasses (adult version) and 3D IR Transmitter for Mitsubishi 3D HDTVs. Sadly, it looks like Ultimate 3D Heaven has jacked the price of the 3D IR Transmitter by 100%.
post #1097 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Congrads on going 3D.

But hopefully you'll find use for 3D in PC or console gaming since you'll get a lot more mileage/benefit.

Let me know how those Universal 3D glasses work since I won't be buying the Mitsubishi brand.

Thanks! I will be playing some 3D games On the ps3 so hopefully all works out.
I will let you know how the glasses work out.
post #1098 of 1375
Heres an update and hopefully the end of this saga


The tech came in this past wed to change the DM board
He was a nice guy ,he showed me how to change the bulb by taking it out and showing me how to put it back in

The bulb/lamp was very small ,from the YouTube videos I've seen i thought the lamp was bigger

So after he left i watched tv for a few hours to see if the dimming went away, the problem was still there but now just very subtle not as often as before

I had already planned on buying one of those expensive power centers cause i had a feeling the problem was with the electricity

So i bought this one. http://amzn.com/B000PCVF3E

Got it on Saturday morning and so far 2 days of watching tv and movies i have not seen any dimming at all

So this thing seems to have fixed my problem

It was expensive but its worth every penny , i spent almost 2 months in dimming/flickering hell


The monster power has been steady at 119/120w thats what the LCD screen says

What is the danger lowest number and what is the highest , anybody knows ?
post #1099 of 1375
Lucid69 are you still using the same picture settings from a few months back
post #1100 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

So this thing seems to have fixed my problem

This didn't fix the circuit issue you're having. Rather, you fixed things from one outlet to the devices connected to that outlet. The issue itself still exists. And if the problem is circuit overloading then that's a fire hazard waiting to happen.

Short electrical spikes are one thing and the equipment you purchased help with that. But when a circuit decreases in power (amps) to cause other items on the circuit to "dim" then that's usually because of a circuit overload. Circuit overloads are VERY dangerous. That's why I recommended you have things checked out by an electrician. Not only for your HDTV viewing pleasure but also for your safety.

I would assume that you're renting so if that's the case having your circuits checked out won't cost you a dime. Might as well play it safe. More so before the Holiday's hit and you plug in some additional Christmas lights that might further the problem.
post #1101 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Lucid69 are you still using the same picture settings from a few months back

I'm currently using the following settings...

Brilliant (HDTV)
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 95
Color: 36
Tint: 6
Sharpness: 68
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Brilliant (Blu-ray movies)
Color: 32
* Note: Same as above, just different color setting.

Bright - (Some Blu-ray movies & HDTV Sports)
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 90
Color: 32
Tint: -6 (Adjust based on the movie/sport event until yellows look correct, usually from -8 to +8 range)
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Natural - (Use when the above picture modes don't look natural)
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 85
Color: 62
Tint: 8
Sharpness: 68
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High
post #1102 of 1375
Thanks for the settings lucid


Interesting in your old settings you had video noise set to medium and now is off for all

What exactly does this do
post #1103 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Interesting in your old settings you had video noise set to medium and now is off for all

What exactly does this do

It's a noise filter to reduce compression artifacts and film grain (in movies). I turned it off because I don't want more video processing done. More so since the 638/C10 series are known not to have that great of a video processor. So if you see compression artifacts or film grain then that's because it exists in the source material. Trying to filter it out will only cause other negative effects to the picture quality (in most cases).

Note: I had the filter on before because some HDTV channels have very bad compression artifacts (thanks to Comcast). But turning it on for all broadcast channels is not good advice. I can't comment on satellite since I didn't have it when I got this HDTV. Since I only get basic Cable (same cost if you don't have it with internet only service) I might go way of the antenna in the near future which should have better picture quality.
post #1104 of 1375
I got the 3D starter pack today and my extra pair of Universal 3D glasses and everything works! I only have watched the free HD sampler bluray that has come with the Starter Pack but WOW..the 3D is amazing..so beautiful..cant wait to watch some full movies.


The Universal Glasses brand are Xpand x103 ..as soon as i turned them on they automatically worked with the emitter that came with the mit. starter pack.

Now I am not sure you can buy the Xpand glasses and Just the adapter alone(the 99 dollar one) because i dont think you get emitter with the single adapter...i could be wrong but i think you need the Mit. Emitter to use the xpand glasses
post #1105 of 1375
Am I missing something? I upgraded from an older samsung set and this picture is terrible compared to it, its not sharp, and VERY dim. Do i have a bad set? is there a way to turn up the lamp brightness in the service menu?
Thanks for any help you can give.
post #1106 of 1375
The brilliant mode is really bright for me

Use the settings lucid posted above
post #1107 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

The brilliant mode is really bright for me

Use the settings lucid posted above

I must have a bad set, i have it on brilliant and brightness so high blacks are blown out and contrast at 100 and still while i was watching a thor last night I could not see what was going on at all in dark scenes.
post #1108 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by bnsrowe View Post

I must have a bad set, i have it on brilliant and brightness so high blacks are blown out and contrast at 100 and still while i was watching a thor last night I could not see what was going on at all in dark scenes.

It's a dark movie, some are like this poor contrast I think!
post #1109 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by bnsrowe View Post

I must have a bad set, i have it on brilliant and brightness so high blacks are blown out and contrast at 100 and still while i was watching a thor last night I could not see what was going on at all in dark scenes.

Sounds like a configuration issue with your other equipment that's sending 0-255 color space/dynamic range to the HDTV (should be sending 16-235). This problem will cause serious "black crush" issues like you've seen. And increasing the brightness won't fix your problem since the lower black levels are completely cut off from being displayed.

Check your Blu-ray player settings and make sure you're not labeling the input as "PC" on the HDTV input (from the menu). Also be sure you're using an HDMI connection, not component.

If you're using a PC or game console system for movie playback then search this thread for how to set those up. These configurations are a bit more complex, especially for PC setups. Btw, I've watched Thor on my 65C10 and it looked fine, no darkness issue at all. But I use a HTPC which has Nvidia GeForce 9300 graphics on the motherboard and use GPU video playback acceleration which uses Nvidia's PureVideo HD Technology to provides a better picture.
post #1110 of 1375
Quote:
Originally Posted by bnsrowe View Post


I must have a bad set, i have it on brilliant and brightness so high blacks are blown out and contrast at 100 and still while i was watching a thor last night I could not see what was going on at all in dark scenes.

Are you serious? First brilliant is the worst mode on the tv period. Second contrast is too high and a high brightness doesn't equate to having better shadow detail.

You need to use adv mode and reasonable settings to have the best picture. The problem isn't the tv, it's your settings.
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