2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 40

Updated: 11/27/2011

After updating to the latest Nvidia drivers my picture quality took a turn for the worse which resulted in some research and re-calibration. Listed below are my current settings and the reasons why.

1) If you're using a PC, then be sure to set you C10/638 to use the "input label" of "PC" for the PC input. Doing this will result in your C10/638 treating the signal as 0-255. This is important since I've noticed if you calibrate the C10/638 using the other input labels that it results in some additional black crush - where blacks fall off too soon. This is also done so that desktop programs and games look correct on the HDTV. If you use the other input labels, then ONLY video will look correct and ONLY if you make the appropriate settings, which I'm not covering here.

2) Because you're using the full 0-255 RGB color you'll have to make some setting adjustments so video looks correct. Under the "Video - Adjust Video Color Setting" you'll make changes under the "Color" tab as follows. Color: Brightness 58% and Contrast 48%. Under the Advanced tab make sure the "Dynamic Range" is set to "Full 0-255". I also set the gamma for all colors to .92. Note: In the research I've done, people have the Brightness set to 57% but I've noticed that blacks are a bit more crushed but not by much. You can avoid making these video adjustments and selecting the 16-235 range under the Advanced tab. If you do so you'll need to reduce the brightness (HDTV settings) to 51. The picture quality looks similar but I find that the skin tones look a tad bit more neutral and there's a bit less black crush when using the 0-255 setting with the manual corrections.

3) Under the "Display" settings set make sure Nvidia is set and use the defaults. Also, Make sure "RGB" is used with "Desktop Programs". The reason for this is nearly all programs on the PC will output 0-255. Plus with the settings in step 2, you're adjusting for the color space difference.

Brilliant
Brightness: 56
Contrast: 100
Color: 32 for TV and 30 for movies
Tint: 6
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Bright
Not used - Colors/Whites are too blown out and darks are crushed.

Natural
Not used - Colors are not saturated enough, bright reds are too muted.

Using these settings XBMC produces VERY good picture results. But please make sure that "hardware acceleration" is checked. If not, you'll see serious black crush. That's in part because you won't be using the settings you made in step 2.

With Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center use the registry setting which will force Windows 7 Ultimate Media Center to output 0-255. With Sports, bright yellows can be a bit off - more to the green than yellow. But if you try to correct for this (tint) then you'll get more brown colors on a football field than green. This is because of the limited tint adjustment on the C10/638 HDTVs (single tint adjustment from green to red).

Boxee is a problem since I have to disable the "hardware acceleration" for the TWiT.TV plugin to display video shows, otherwise it only outputs audio. I only use Boxee for TWiT.TV and Revision3 programs so it's not that big of a deal for me. I would use XBMC for these plugins but the shows appear to be low-def in XBMC vs. higher resolution in Boxee. Again, there might be a setting change to resolve this issue with XBMC, eliminating the need to use Boxee at all.

Here's the Windows Media Center registry setting which will allow you to switch from 16-235 to 0-255. In the settings I gave above you should use the 0-255 settings.

Windows Media Center registry settings (16-235 and 0-255)

Removed

It figures after I've re-calibrated my HDTV because of some Nvidia driver changes that I now have another problem. I now have a clear spot on the inside of the screen. I don't know if it's a defect in the screen which just happened or if a bug got in there and did some magic on my screen. I would think it would be the latter than the former. Sadly, I don't think this will be covered by the warranty. Not to mention, I think the screen has a shorter warranty than rest of the HDTV parts. So this means I'm going to have to dive into my HDTV and using the proper cleaning techniques so not to harm the screen. If there's anyone that's had to do this then it would be great if you could provide input on the best way to open the HDTV to do this. I'll be contacting Mitsubishi later this week to see if they can provide free repair of this but I doubt it. I'll post a few photos of this issue later since I'm sure others will have the same issue. More so if it's the result of a bug doing it's magic on the screen.

Mid-year update

I assume most got there tv around nov dec,jan,feb because of the deals they had

How is your tv holding up

Are you still happy with your purchase ?

I'm still amazed by mine at least a few times a week. Started with Lucid's settings, and haven't varied them too much. Although I am running everything through a DVDO Edge, which is also an incredible device.

I'm thinking it's time to buy a replacement bulb and retire the original one to a back-up.
I've got a 60638, wondering what the best online source would be?

All these complaints for a $300 TV, and yet you bought another Mitsubishi http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21256722

(and still complaining)

Yeah, if I didn't have the DVDO Edge, I don't think I'd be happy with this set(60638) on anything but 1080P. Luckily, I found a used Edge here on AVS forum for $300, run EVERYTHING through it, and have DirecTV with the source direct option. OTA antenna looks best, of course. This is the first HD set I don't mind watching SD programming on. For SD, our Sony WEGA FD has always been tops.

im still on Lucid's picture settings

the first one from page 16 i think

i tried his new settings but i like the old one better



i wish i had gotten the 60638 over the 60c10 just because the frame is glossy

funny that I spent hours working through 2 or 3 calibration discs, didn't like any of them and went back to Lucid's settings....Thanks, Lucid!

I'm still loving my 65C10. The only negative so far, which probably more a "nature" issue, is I now have a "clear spot" on the inside screen - I think a bug did some magic. It's only visible when the screen displays solid colors but it's still annoying. I have to call Mitsubishi to see what they can do about it or if they can give guidance on how to clean the inside screen. The only other complaint I have is the occasional screen judder on some movie scenes. It's not terrible or anything and doesn't happen often to really complain about. I read that the 640/740/840 models got a firmware update to fix judder issues. So I'll be updating to the latest firmware for the C10/638 to see if that might correct it. I doubt it since the C10/638 use a different video processor. And from what I've read about the 640, it seems to use a bettor video processor than the C10/638.

There were some insane deals this Black Friday and still going on. BB online had the 73640 for 699 with free shipping! Sadly that deal sold out fast otherwise I would've gotten one without thinking twice. Dell still has a good deal on the 73 for a bit more than 900 beans with free shipping. The 82740 can be had for a bit more than 1800. So there are some seriously good deals for those that didn't make the jump yet. I'm on the fence if I should bite the bullet and get the 73640 or 82740. I'll still keep my 65" but will just use it in the bedroom.

I need to read up more on the 640 series since it appears that the video processor might be the same as the one used in the 740/840 models. And from what I read, the 840 models don't provide that much better picture quality because of the better contrast screen. But I probably wouldn't want that anyway since the 840 models have a reflective screen finish and not a matte one like the C10/638 have. So you'll get light/room glare on the screen which sucks big time.

I would wait until your bulb fails before buying a new one. But if you're one that can't go without your HDTV for several days to a week then a backup bulb makes sense. Especially if you use your HDTV a lot since the bulb will die faster. You can get a replacement bulb and the housing directly from Mitsubishi for 99. Here's the link to Mitsubishi Parts website.

A lot of what was mentioned could be easily fixed. The lag between channel changing is caused because the source video needs to upscaled to 1080i or 1080p output. Because if you go from a 720p to 1080i source there will be lag in the channel changing. This is discussed in this forum and how to correct it.

For the HDTV being too bright, that can be corrected by lowering the contrast in the settings menu until the brightness is where you want it. The 60" will be a bit more brighter than the 65" but since I'm using 100 (max) for contrast the lowering of the contrast should bring it in line to the brightness of the 65".

Some HDTVs have better out of box calibration than others. This is a "basic" model HDTV so one shouldn't expect the calibration to be perfect out of the box. Also, every HDTV looks different even after professional calibration. So a lot of people get use to the colors and looks of their previous HDTV and use that as a benchmark. It takes several days or weeks for you to adjust to the visual difference of a new HDTV. In fact, it can take just as long for someone to get use to changed HDTV settings. It's best if you change settings and then evaluate them visually at a later viewing.

What's more amazing is that they were unhappy with the 60638 but then go out and buy a "open box" 73838. The picture difference between the 60638 and the 73838 isn't that huge. More so since it's doubtful this person made the proper setting adjustments or had it professionally calibrated. And for a HDTV that was hated so much, they end up selling it to their sister for a "good" price. So much for the family love.

Holy moly... I had to go back to 12-4-10 to find my last post. Lol. Since then mitsu had come out and replaced the color wheel and lamp and the picture was greatly improved. I got a defective unit and mitsu took care of it. It`s been a great set since. As far as selling the set to my sister it was due to my brother in law wanting to buy it after we set the 73838 in its place. It`s not like i need 2 large screen tv`s. So yet again i bought another open box for what i believe to be a great price. I listed the issues... not problems that i`m having with the remote sending out commands more than once which made navigating a problem.

I like how you overlooked me saying that playing a bluray on the 73 was in a word "awesome". It`s my opinion yet again that the overall experience i had with the samsung dlp was much smoother and offered much less lag. Kind of like the user experience of an android phone versus the smooth operation of an iphone. Does having some lag on a dlp a deal breaker? heck no. I just originally gave you my opinion. It`s just unfortunate you don`t want anyone to post anything negative about your set.

Mitsu has already stated they`re sending me a new remote then hopefully all will be fine. If not then theres the remainder of the warranty to get it right. I owned the 60638 for just around a year and once it was repaired it turned out to be a solid set. If it wasn`t i never would of considered the 73838 for $800.00. I`m lovin the new set. Soon it`ll be calibrated and everyone who comes over is absolutely amazed not just by it`s size but also by the outstanding picture.

Oh and augerhandle... I`ve never had a stalker before... But it`s kinda creepy. lol

"AugerStalker" It has a nice ring to it

It was just research and due diligence. Found your posts while researching something else, and couldn't resist commenting on your apparent change of heart.

I told myself that I wasn't going to think about a 73" or 82" DLP until they had a full frame DLP chip. But the Holiday deals this year offered me up something I couldn't refuse. I ended up getting a WD-73C11 (same as the WD-73640) from Dell. With eGift promotions and reward points I was able to score it for 767 delivered (no sales tax in my state). That's just 52 beans more than I paid last year for my WD-65C10! Of course the price pushed me over the edge but it also helped that the video processor seems to be the same in the C11 as it is in the 740, just no TV apps/streaming and built in 3D emitter. So I should be able to tweak the colors a tad more. And to think I was going to pay 1700-1800 last year on one of the higher end 73" DLPs. Now I have a 65" and 73" for less than the 73" DLP I was going to buy last year!

Dell still has the sale going on for the WD-73C11 but the eGift card deal is over (75 eGift card for each 400 eGift card you buy). Still with reward points most will be able to get it for a little less than 900 which is still a good deal. Though it would've been nice to score that Black Friday deal at Best Buy online for 699 for the same set (WD-73640 is the same as the WD-73C11) with free shipping.

Only thing that sucks is the calibration madness starts all over again. But at least I know what I'm getting into.

Does the dell extended warranty cover the lamp/bulb ?

http://accessories.dell.com/sna/Popu...&client=config

I avoid extended warranties since if most electronics are defective they will show it within the first few months of use. Not to mention, these HDTVs can be repaired cheaply by a DIY type person. Bulb is 99 bucks, DLP DMD chip is around 100 bucks, and the only thing left is the color wheel and motor - no idea on that cost. That's all the "physical" parts in the unit. With LCD or Plasma if you get a dead pixel outside of warranty you're pretty much SOL. Even inside of warranty it's acceptable to have some dead pixels. With DLP you can replace the DLP DMD chip and you've got a perfect display again.

Repair costs are usually high because you're paying a tech. to come out to your house and fix things. And they usually replace entire modules like the light engine, which is super expensive, even if it's just the DLP DMD chip or color wheel/motor issue.

Hell, getting things fixed under a standard warranty can sometimes be a hassle. And I've yet to see any 3rd party warranty be any better that was reasonably priced. Not to mention, at these sale prices you're better off just replacing the HDTV when it fails, which should be past 5+ years (outside of replacing the bulb).

Considering what most people pay for cable (80-150 a month), DLP HDTVs are super cheap even if they're replaced every 5 years (800/5yrs/12 months = 14 a month). I just wish more people would drop cable/sat. TV, get over the air broadcast HDTV, and either buy or rent blu-rays. The amount saved is huge and will more than pay for a HDTV itself over a short period of time (less than a year).

it doesnt say anything about lamps or bulbs there

thats like a general description

This is from the "click here for more information" link which is a PDF.

WHAT IS NOT COvERED: THIS PLAN DOES NOT COvER: (1)
INCIDENTAL OR CONSEqUENTIAL DAMAgES (2) PRE-ExISTINg
CONDITIONS; (3) DAMAgE FROM ACCIDENT (UNLESS OTHERWISE
STATED IN THE WHAT IS COvERED SECTION), AbUSE, MISUSE,
INTRODUCTION OF FOREIgN ObjECTS INTO THE PRODUCT,
UNAUTHORIzED PRODUCT MODIFICATIONS OR ALTERATIONS, OR
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS; (4)
ACCESSORIES AND SUPPLIES, INCLUDINg bUT NOT LIMITED TO:
LIgHT bULbS, bATTERIES, ANTENNAS, CARTRIDgES, STyLUSES,
RECORDS, AUDIO/vIDEO DISkS, TAPES, COMPUTER SOFTWARE
OR DISkS, PRINT ELEMENTS, ExTERNAL POWER SUPPLIES,
vACUUM CLEANER bAgS AND bELTS, bULbS, FILTERS, OR
ExTERIOR PIPES OR PLUMbINg; (5) DAMAgE OR LOSS DUE TO THE
ELEMENTS OR ACTS OF gOD; (6) PREvENTATIvE MAINTENANCE OR
DAMAgES CAUSED by IMPROPER PREvENTATIvE MAINTENANCE;
(7) INHERENT PRODUCT DEFECTS, (8) COMMERCIALLy-USED
PRODUCTS, PUbLIC RENTAL, OR COMMUNAL USE IN MULTI-
FAMILy HOUSINg OR MULTI-USER ORgANIzATIONS; (9) DAMAgE
WHICH IS NOT REPORTED WITHIN 30 DAyS AFTER ExPIRATION OF
THIS PLAN; (10) LOSS OR DAMAgE TO STORED DATA, REPAIRS
RELATED TO INSTALLED SOFTWARE, COMPUTER vIRUSES,
CRACkED OR PHySICALLy DAMAgED SCREENS OR COMPUTER
HARDWARE WHICH IS ADDED AFTER THE ORIgINAL PURCHASE;
(11) bURNED-IN PHOSPHOR IN CATHODE RAy TUbES OR ANy
OTHER TyPE OF DISPLAy; (12) ANy DAMAgE TO RECORDINg
MEDIA INCLUDINg ANy SOFTWARE PROgRAMS, DATA, OR
CONFIgURATION/SETUP INFORMATION RESIDENT ON ANy MASS
STORAgE DEvICES SUCH AS HARD DRIvES, CD-ROM DRIvES,
DvD DRIvES, FLOPPy DISkETTES, TAPE DRIvES OR TAPE bACkUP
SySTEMS, AS A RESULT OF THE MALFUNCTIONINg OR DAMAgE
OF AN OPERATINg OR NON-OPERATINg PART, OR AS A RESULT
OF ANy REPAIRS OR REPLACEMENT UNDER THIS PLAN; (13)
PRODUCTS WITH REMOvED OR ALTERED SERIAL NUMbERS; (14)
LOSS OR CORRUPTION OF DATA AND/OR THE RESTORATION OF
SOFTWARE AND OPERATINg SySTEMS; (15) LOSS AND/OR THEFT
OF THE PRODUCT; (16) LOSS OF USE, LOSS OF bUSINESS, LOSS
OF PROFITS, DOWN-TIME AND CHARgES FOR TIME AND EFFORT;
(17) ANy FAILURES OR PARTS AND/OR LAbOR COST INCURRED
AS A RESULT OF A MANUFACTURER'S RECALL, REgARDLESS OF
THE MANUFACTURER'S AbILITy TO PAy FOR SUCH REPAIRS; (18)
DAMAgE COvERED UNDER ANy INSURANCE POLICy, OR ANy
OTHER WARRANTy OR SERvICE PLAN; (19) SEIzED OR DAMAgED
PARTS RESULTINg FROM FAILURE TO MAINTAIN PROPER LEvELS
OF LUbRICANTS OR COOLANTS OR RESULTINg FROM USINg
CONTAMINATED OR IMPROPER LUbRICANTS; (20) LIAbILITy OR
DAMAgE TO PROPERTy, OR INjURy OR DEATH TO ANy PERSON
ARISINg OUT OF THE OPERATION, MAINTENANCE OR USE OF THE
PRODUCT; (21) PRODUCTS THAT ARE NOT LISTED ON THIS PLAN;
(22) PRODUCTS SOLD AS-IS INCLUDINg bUT NOT LIMITED TO
FLOOR MODELS (UNLESS COvERED by A FULL MANUFACTURER'S
WARRANTy ON yOUR DATE OF PURCHASE) AND DEMONSTRATION
MODELS; (23) SERvICE OR REPLACEMENT OUTSIDE OF THE USA;
(24) PRODUCTS SOLD OR SHIPPED OUTSIDE THE US; (25) OEM
COvERAgE; (26) DAMAgE OR LOSS DUE TO WAR, INvASION OR ACT
OF FOREIgN ENEMy, HOSTILITIES, CIvIL WAR, REbELLION, RIOT,
STRIkE, LAbOR DISTURbANCE, LOCkOUT OR CIvIL COMMOTION.

I've attempted to attach an image of what my 60c10 is doing. Basically it's like a smeared image going from top left to lower right. It is more obvious on black background, but the problem is worsening, and of course Mits. support/warranty is not being very helpful. After a 'fix attempt' they say this is normal. And sorry, It wasn't like this 5 months ago and not my first DLP. Any thoughts, or ideas on what is causing this and how to correct?

i dont see anything in that pic, tell them to send u a new bulb, see if that fixes the problem , and did u show this to the repair guy? what did he say, when my tv had a problem i would call the repair people and they would call mitsubishi, that was a lot faster then me calling mitsubishi, then mitsubishi calling the repair people




if this is happening in all the inputs , with other devices , your screen needs to calibrated

call mitsubishi , tell them your problem, the repair guy will come to your house with a piece of paper with some codes on there
he will get in to the secret menu to adjust the screen ,

Those three formats are the only formats for 1080p, 1080i and 720p HD signals which by definition are 16:9 shaped. The other formats are for 480i and 480p 4:3 shaped signals. Your cable box is upconverting everything to 1080i or 720p 16:9 and possibly stretching the 4:3 signals at the same time instead of adding black side bars. This is outside of the TV control. Check your cable box menus again for picture size/shape options and output resolution options. If you want to keep the output resolution (1080i or 720p) as is then change the size/shape options to add side bars to 4:3 signals. If you cannot find these in the standard user menu of the cable box then it is in a hidden menu for the cable box. Here you may need others help to get to them or your cable company may be able to help.

While the TV does have overscan, it is no more than 3% on a side and that should leave everything in an original HD signal in the safe zone visible. However when a 4:3 signal is stretched, this may push something outside of the safe zone.

He said it was also happening on the roku ^^

[quote=TatorTot;21325816]i dont see anything in that pic, tell them to send u a new bulb, see if that fixes the problem , and did u show this to the repair guy? what did he say, when my tv had a problem i would call the repair people and they would call mitsubishi, that was a lot faster then me calling mitsubishi, then mitsubishi calling the repair people




You really can't see the rainbow color smear going up and to the left of the text??
After the unit went off to the repair center they said that this is normal for DLP. I disagreed with them, but they simply said sorry....nothing can be done to fix it. I've had this case ongoing with Mitsubishi support since Oct 5th. I'm just getting frustrated with no response from Mitsubishi so I figured I'd ask the experts here.

No sorry i don't see anything , but i dont have 20/20 vision

So has anybody here had to replace a lamp since buying there 2010 dlp ?

no me ...knock on wood