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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 5

post #121 of 1358
12/3/10 at 6:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by boxer0987 View Post

I just purchased a 73638 and have to pick it up at best buy... 4 hours away. Reason being is the 1199 sale they were having was only showing available at a store 4 hours away with no home delivery in my area. Sucks. I have a couple questions?
1. Does this tv come in a box like every other tv?
2. It is suppose to be in the 30's all day. Will this harm the tv if it is in the back of a truck? I plan on tarping it.
3. Does anyone have the exact dimensions of the box?

By the way the funny thing is the day the deal for 1199 stops it is suddenly available for home delivery and store pick up in my area. What a crock of ****

It is a little fishy. I don't get mine from BB until the 18th, but I'm a semi-patient man.
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post #122 of 1358
12/3/10 at 7:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

What's the chipset version is your laptop using. The motherboard I'm using has built in graphics which is designed to be used as a HTPC - even powers on from a sleep state to record TV, so you don't have to leave it on 24/7.

Update: After messing around with it more, the laptop does work with the tv properly but my HTPC is still being peculiar. I tried reloading the graphic drivers but no dice.

It's a motherboard (can't remember model) with integrated graphics (Nvidia 8200) w/ HDMI out. Any suggestions on what could cause my particular problem on the PC side?
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post #123 of 1358
12/3/10 at 7:54am
i use to have an nvidi 8200 mobo when i tried using the onboard graphics it never worked right with the hdtv kept turnin the screen to greenblocks i never got it to work right so u may wanna get a new mobo
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post #124 of 1358
12/3/10 at 10:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daye View Post

i use to have an nvidi 8200 mobo when i tried using the onboard graphics it never worked right with the hdtv kept turnin the screen to greenblocks i never got it to work right so u may wanna get a new mobo

Ordered a dedicated graphic card. Hope it fixes my problem :/
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post #125 of 1358
12/3/10 at 11:51am
Anyone seeing pretty bad sse on the 60638? Mine was delivered today and this thing really sparkles. Not sure I'm going to keep it because it really distracts me. Anything I can do
to try and reduce it?
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post #126 of 1358
12/3/10 at 11:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tread311 View Post
Anyone seeing pretty bad sse on the 60638? Mine was delivered today and this thing really sparkles. Not sure I'm going to keep it because it really distracts me. Anything I can do
to try and reduce it?
Sounds like you got a defective HDTV. Have you seen this set at the store? You could be one of the rare people that sees effects like this so looking at one at the store will determine if it's you or the HDTV.
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post #127 of 1358
12/3/10 at 12:01pm
We have an older mits dlp and I notice it on that one but it's definitely not as bad. I was and am planning to find one in the store to compare. I guess we shall see.
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post #128 of 1358
12/3/10 at 1:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tread311 View Post
Anyone seeing pretty bad sse on the 60638? Mine was delivered today and this thing really sparkles. Not sure I'm going to keep it because it really distracts me. Anything I can do
to try and reduce it?
what is sse? Also if someone can help, Do you have to switch the 60638 t.v. to a different channel to play the PS3? Or is it just pop a disk in and it will automatically play?
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post #129 of 1358
12/3/10 at 2:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shibez View Post

One of that things kept bothering me was yellow...i know this tv has 6 color processor and i just wasnt seeing yellow like i thought i should had been...

SO i finally popped in an old DVD with a THX optimizer on it andi spent about 45mins trying to get the yellow just right with the tint and color controls...

so heres my final settings for natural

* Picture Modes
o Picture Mode : Natural
o Color Temperature : Low
o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard
* Picture Settings
o Contrast : 100
o Brightness : 50
o Color : 39
o Tint : 22
o Sharpness : 31
o Color Temperature : Low
o Video Noise : Off

also idid the test for the contrast and brightness controls too and 100 and 50 were pretty dead on

For what model is these settings from? Is this the 60638 60"? Thanks
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post #130 of 1358
12/3/10 at 2:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 View Post

what is sse? Also if someone can help, Do you have to switch the 60638 t.v. to a different channel to play the PS3? Or is it just pop a disk in and it will automatically play?

SSE = Silk Screen Effect or Rainbow Effect.
Some people are more sensitive to the effect than others.

The rainbow effect occurs when your eyes move quickly across a single chip DLP display. Note that this will occur with both front and rear projection systems. What you will see is bright objects separating into the colors of the light projection system, usually red, blue and green.
It can be lowered by decreasing the brightness and contrast, or by calibrating your screen. It is a characteristic of DLP TV's.
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post #131 of 1358
12/3/10 at 4:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 View Post

For what model is these settings from? Is this the 60638 60"? Thanks

These would be My own calibrated settings using a THX optimizer DVD. They are Optimized For the Movie Studio Industry Standard Of 6500k ...(well as close as i could get) I am by no means a professional.... but i thought i did a pretty good job.
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post #132 of 1358
12/3/10 at 5:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

These sets up-convert any non-1080p signal to 1080p. The video processors in the C10/638 sets are a lower quality so if you send those sets a non-1080p signal it will not look as good vs. the higher end sets or if the video was going through an external video processor (before the signal hits the HDTV). There's a reason these sets are cheaper than the 738/838 models, they use a lesser quality video processor chip. And as such, have lesser quality video when the source video isn't 1080p.

Calibration disks allow you adjust the various color/tint/hue/contrast/etc. settings so that your set displays the best possible picture. Then from there you can tweak things slight for how they look best to your own eyes. Not calibration your TV can result in over saturated colors, black crush, inaccurate colors, etc.. Most TVs out of the box aren't calibrated and as a result don't deliver the best picture quality. Some people pay several hundreds of dollars to have a professional calibrate their HDTVs for them. So even high end sets need calibration.

There is no "HD" setting on these sets. All video inputs to this HDTV are converted to 1080p using the lesser quality Push1080p video processor. That's where the problem is at - the video processor that these sets use. If you input 1080p video into this set it won't convert the signal to 1080p because it's already 1080p so it will not take a picture quality hit to do the conversion. The only way to have better video with non-1080p inputs to this HDTV is to use a PC for input or a external video processor. The other alternative is to buy the 738/838 model of the set since they use a better video processor (Push1080p 5G).

Are many of you running your video inputs (HD cable, BD-DVD, DVD, etc) through a A/V receiver?
Many newer receivers offer video upscaling to 1080p. The Yamaha RX-V1900 I have uses Anchor Bay VRS (Video Reference Series) upscaling hardware to bump up any non 1080p to 1080p. Then you do not have to worry about what generation processor is in your TV. All of the video processing is taken care of by the receiver.
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post #133 of 1358
12/3/10 at 6:01pm
well today i returned my 60638 and got my sharp 52 lcd back and wow did i ever miss this screen,i had to be quick in returning it before my atlanta falcons play sunday.i want to thank you all for helping me try get my tv to my liking but it seemed like one channel looked great and another one looked bad.3d was everything i thought it would be and more and when more content comes out in 3d im in.i guess it was the video card not being to good like someone sayed a few post ago,again thanks and i hope you enjoy your 638 series.
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post #134 of 1358
12/3/10 at 6:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelhorse2 View Post

So I have the 60638 model, I checked and dont see any location in settings for to switch to HD. Aren't these t.v.'s just plug and play for HD as long as your signals are HD right? When you said switch to HD, where do you go to apply? Thanks. What does the calibration disk do that our own eyes can't?

not sure if you got your HD receiver yet...but when you goto a HD channel..the tv automatically switches to HD based on what the channel is outputting(720p,1080i)

when you get your HD receiver read the quick start guide it will tell how to setup the receiver for HD.(usually a quick setup)

also newer TV's have digital tuners and if you have basic cable or even an antenna in the mean time if you want to experience HD with this TV you can scan the TV's tuners for your local HD's (fox,abc,nbc,cbs ect..) for the most part you wouldnt be able to see HD until primetime(about 8pm) cos thats when Shows start broadcasting in it...but PBS usually broadcasts in HD allday long...and in very good quality.
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post #135 of 1358
12/3/10 at 8:08pm
I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.

while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.

and ive come up with this..


o Picture Mode : Bright
o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard
* Picture Settings
o Contrast : 72
o Brightness : 46
o Color :38
o Tint : 9
o Sharpness : 0
o Color Temperature : high
o Video Noise : Off
o film mode : off

These work very well for bluray as well..

these are all with HDMI(high speed) cable hookup

I know 72 for contrast seems nuts but try watching a movie with a lot of snow in(like skiing)...or scene where the sun is shining on a persons white shirt..you cant make out any detail in white scenes..just looks like a white blotch. 72 contrast helps this alot.(on bright mode)
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post #136 of 1358
12/3/10 at 8:25pm
Shibez, thanks for all your time and effort with the continual tinkering with calibration settings. I will have to give them a try when my 60638 gets here next Friday.


I found this in the C10/638/738/838 Service Manual:

1. Activating the Service Menu
V43C & V43 (638 & C10)
For the V43C & V43 chassis, all service functions except Data Transfer are included under the Service Menu.
1. Press the
button on a remote control. (The Customer Menu will appear.)
2. Press the buttons <2-4-7-0>. (The Service Menu will appear.)

Test Pattern Activation
V43C & V43
1. When in the Service Menu select “Test Picture” <0,1,2,3,4 or 5> to select specific patterns.
2. When in the Service Menu select “Calibration” <1-1-1-1>. Use and to toggle
between patterns.

3. Adjustment Overview—Specific adjustment procedures follow.
V43C & V43
When in the Service Menu select “Calibration” followed by the code for the adjustment desired.
V43+ & V43++ (738/838)
1. When in the Service Menu use the button to toggle to adjustment desired indicated by the
number and abbreviation displayed on screen.
2. For Geometry, from the Service Menu press <0> and select “Manual Geometry Alignment” .
4. Adjusting Data
After selecting an adjustment item, use the Navigation arrows or other buttons indicated in the adjustment
procedure to perform the adjustment.
5. Saving Data
Press to save the adjustment data.
V43C & V43, The Status LED will turn red for about 1 second.
V43+ & V43++, The menu display will turn red for approximately one second.
Note: If the circuit adjustment mode is terminated without pressing , changes in adjustment data
are not saved.
6. Exiting the Service Menu
Press to quit.
CODE ADJUSTMENT
2846 Horizontal & Vertical Position
2580 Index Delay
1397 Geometry
<2-4-7-0> “Calibration”

4. Adjusting Data
After selecting an adjustment item, use the Navigation arrows or other buttons indicated in the adjustment
procedure to perform the adjustment.
5. Saving Data
Press to save the adjustment data.
V43C & V43, The Status LED will turn red for about 1 second.
V43+ & V43++, The menu display will turn red for approximately one second.
Note: If the circuit adjustment mode is terminated without pressing , changes in adjustment data
are not saved.
6. Exiting the Service Menu
Press to quit.
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post #137 of 1358
12/3/10 at 10:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray from NJ View Post


SSE = Silk Screen Effect or Rainbow Effect.
Some people are more sensitive to the effect than others.

The rainbow effect occurs when your eyes move quickly across a single chip DLP display. Note that this will occur with both front and rear projection systems. What you will see is bright objects separating into the colors of the light projection system, usually red, blue and green.
It can be lowered by decreasing the brightness and contrast, or by calibrating your screen. It is a characteristic of DLP TV's.

SSE is different from the rainbow effect afaik. Rainbow is a result of the color wheel while SSE is from the texture of the screen itself usually visible on really bright scenes. It's so bad on mine I see it even on darker colors.
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post #138 of 1358
12/4/10 at 12:50am
I have a wd-60638,these are the settings i have found to be the best for me.
By the way i love this TV!Very cheap,and I get nothing but compliments .

Pic mode=natural
brightness=68
contrast=79
color=55
tint=0
sharpness=50
video noise=High(only tv that this feature actually improves the picture)
color temp=High

Just my opinion,but looks good on hd tv,and blueray-3d.
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post #139 of 1358
12/4/10 at 6:20am
good morning. I own an old copy of video essentials and used it last weekend on this set that i bought at bestbuy as a return for $300.00. I could immediately understand what the returning customer used to explain as his reason for returning the set. I got it home and went through the setup and at first felt as though i wanted to return it. the pic mode was set to brillant. even in my nearly dark living room i had to squint. this set was unbelieveably bright and had the worst picture i had ever experienced from an hdtv set. finished installing my external components and grabbed my old copy of video essentials and ran it through the blu ray player. Took about 45 minutes but in the end i had a picture that was more realistic than what had been set at the factory.
picture mode: natural
brightness: 60
contrast: 65
color: 50
tint: +2
sharpness: 25
video noise: off
color temp: high
this is as accurate as i can find for my preference. no addition of sharpness. no artifically enhanced color. i did notice that every input must be set independently. If it weren`t for the cheap price i would simply return it because my samsung dlp hl56a650 even though older is a thousand times better overall than this mitsubishi.
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post #140 of 1358
12/4/10 at 10:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by galaxie500fb View Post

If it weren`t for the cheap price i would simply return it because my samsung dlp hl56a650 even though older is a thousand times better overall than this mitsubishi.

Wow, that's a strong statement. When viewing "good" HD TV and blu-rays is the difference that great? It's a given that the video processor in the C10/638 sets is less than to be desired for non 1080p content. So long as that's known, and you have a workaround for it then all should be good. But you did get a hell of a deal on that returned unit. And I assume the picture quality is good enough to use/watch or you would have returned it.
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post #141 of 1358
12/4/10 at 1:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by galaxie500fb View Post
good morning. I own an old copy of video essentials and used it last weekend on this set that i bought at bestbuy as a return for $300.00. I could immediately understand what the returning customer used to explain as his reason for returning the set. I got it home and went through the setup and at first felt as though i wanted to return it. the pic mode was set to brillant. even in my nearly dark living room i had to squint. this set was unbelieveably bright and had the worst picture i had ever experienced from an hdtv set. finished installing my external components and grabbed my old copy of video essentials and ran it through the blu ray player. Took about 45 minutes but in the end i had a picture that was more realistic than what had been set at the factory.
picture mode: natural
brightness: 60
contrast: 65
color: 50
tint: +2
sharpness: 25
video noise: off
color temp: high
this is as accurate as i can find for my preference. no addition of sharpness. no artifically enhanced color. i did notice that every input must be set independently. If it weren`t for the cheap price i would simply return it because my samsung dlp hl56a650 even though older is a thousand times better overall than this mitsubishi.
i know for sure when this sets color temp is on 'high'(the manual says cool) it really pops! from my past experience tho cool means the opposite of 6500k. I am going to try these settings anyways ...but the contrast scares me. seems like it will be too dim.

Hey these arent too bad actually...not bad at all ... im watching mission in possible on hd hbo and it looks real good
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post #142 of 1358
12/4/10 at 1:37pm
Hi everyone! Long time lurker here.

I have a Sony XBR4 that was professionally calibrated. At the time, and even now, it was pretty darned top of the line.

I just picked up the 638. Using shibez's settings, here's a comparison shot:
(i.imgur.com/TTclX.jpg - as a newbie I can't post this as a link) - As you can see, while there are differences, many of the differences are in overall saturation, inherent sharpness, and brightness. Let's face it, as DLP owners, we're going to deal with some darkness.

Anyway, I wanted to share just HOW GOOD shibez's eyes are. These are definitely the best settings I've tried so far, and I've tried all of them within this thread.

HOWEVER - it's really important to me as a game player to use the GAME mode rather than the NATURAL mode, because I want no processing effects at ALL. I'll continue to refine using those settings.

AVS Forum is unbelievably great. This community rocks!
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post #143 of 1358
12/4/10 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by larsoncc View Post
I just picked up the 638. Using shibez's settings, here's a comparison shot:
(i.imgur.com/TTclX.jpg - as a newbie I can't post this as a link) - As you can see, while there are differences, many of the differences are in overall saturation, inherent sharpness, and brightness. Let's face it, as DLP owners, we're going to deal with some darkness.
Thanks for posting the photo. Looks like these sets could benefit with individual color adjustments to dial them in a bit more, which a PC and external video processor can do. But I noticed that there appears to be some light "banding" in the solid color areas from the photo you posted for the 60638. Is that seen in person or is that perhaps the camera adding too or making it look that way. Also, what setting are you using for your Xbox 360 output - HDMI at 1080p (don't remember if it does 1080p out, been a while since I've messed with mine). Since if it's not outputting 1080p then what could be seen is the TV video processor conversion to 1080p, which won't make it look as good as it can.
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post #144 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:02pm
So I Got my 60638 yesterday, hooked it up and ran my "does it look cool test" with Transformers Bluray. You know the scene in the chopper at the begining; This TV looks just as cool as my LED Sammy. Notice I'm talking cool and not good or better. I like the cool look of 1080P "soap effect" Don't know what the knock on DLP is Looks good in my Man/Dallas Cowboy/LSU room

PS Although it has an hd tuner, get a hd box for tv viewing. The HD content looks like crap from the coax
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post #145 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
Don't know what the knock on DLP is
People usually give DLP a hard time because it's rear projection (at least in standalone HDTVs). So naturally people think of those old and HUGE TVs of the past when they think of rear projection TVs. Most also think rear projection HDTVs are dead and/or "old" technology.

Most people use LCD for their computer monitor and have gotten use to it. So they expect the same for a large screen HDTV. But what they fail to realize is LCD/Plasma have flaws as well. There is no "perfect" HDTV out there. It's just a matter what you're willing to compromise on. A least until large AMOLED screens are available and at a price that people can afford. But that's probably 5-10 years away, if not more.
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post #146 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by larsoncc View Post
Hi everyone! Long time lurker here.

I have a Sony XBR4 that was professionally calibrated. At the time, and even now, it was pretty darned top of the line.

I just picked up the 638. Using shibez's settings, here's a comparison shot:
(i.imgur.com/TTclX.jpg - as a newbie I can't post this as a link) - As you can see, while there are differences, many of the differences are in overall saturation, inherent sharpness, and brightness. Let's face it, as DLP owners, we're going to deal with some darkness.

Anyway, I wanted to share just HOW GOOD shibez's eyes are. These are definitely the best settings I've tried so far, and I've tried all of them within this thread.

HOWEVER - it's really important to me as a game player to use the GAME mode rather than the NATURAL mode, because I want no processing effects at ALL. I'll continue to refine using those settings.

AVS Forum is unbelievably great. This community rocks!
thx larson for the kind words and youre right this community does rock...im actually liking Galaxies contrast and brightness settings alot (especially in dark scenes) thinking of switching them to mine
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post #147 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post
Most people use LCD for their computer monitor and have gotten use to it. So they expect the same for a large screen HDTV. But what they fail to realize is LCD/Plasma have flaws as well. There is no "perfect" HDTV out there. It's just a matter what you're willing to compromise on.
boy is that true... i own both and my sammy plasma started to get the red dots after just one year of owning...and asfor lcd...the blacks are just horrid on them
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post #148 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post
Thanks for posting the photo. Looks like these sets could benefit with individual color adjustments to dial them in a bit more, which a PC and external video processor can do. But I noticed that there appears to be some light "banding" in the solid color areas from the photo you posted for the 60638. Is that seen in person or is that perhaps the camera adding too or making it look that way. Also, what setting are you using for your Xbox 360 output - HDMI at 1080p (don't remember if it does 1080p out, been a while since I've messed with mine). Since if it's not outputting 1080p then what could be seen is the TV video processor conversion to 1080p, which won't make it look as good as it can.
Correct, the Xbox is HDMI at 1080p. In addition to running these settings, I also used the MP4 calibration movies (linked earlier in the thread).

It's a bit disturbing, but this TV does have a *2.5%* overscan! Wonder if there's anything we can do about that. Black cutoff is perfect, there doesn't seem to be issues with the whites, we could actually go a bit brighter.

I think that the banding in the pictures is due to JPG compression or the camera, but I'll check. The TVs are in separate rooms, hence me taking pictures in the first place. I'll also post some more higher rez comparisons.

The big "flaws" I'm noticing about this TV:
1. Some overscan, up to 2.5%. Is this normal in DLPs?
2. Heavy on blue, in almost all adjustments I've done, and I still can't seem to work it out. You're right, we need to work on a method to tweak those colors.
3. One or two very minor geometry problems. I know that these are typically physical issues (lens, screen), but I do see very very slight curving of straight lines on the right hand side of my set.
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post #149 of 1358
12/4/10 at 2:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by larsoncc View Post

It's a bit disturbing, but this TV does have a *2.5%* overscan! Wonder if there's anything we can do about that.

The big "flaws" I'm noticing about this TV:
1. Some overscan, up to 2.5%. Is this normal in DLPs?
2. Heavy on blue, in almost all adjustments I've done, and I still can't seem to work it out. You're right, we need to work on a method to tweak those colors.
3. One or two very minor geometry problems. I know that these are typically physical issues (lens, screen), but I do see very very slight curving of straight lines on the right hand side of my set.

An external video processor will allow you to eliminate most of the overscan and dial in the colors more accurately (individual color adjustments). Those devices are not cheap but are the best solution if you have multiple devices connected to your HDTV. Just check out the DVDO Edge video processor which is also an auto HDMI switch.

For the geometry problems, look at the post earlier on which gave procedures for making corrections using the service menu. You might be able to improve or fix what you're currently seeing.
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post #150 of 1358
12/4/10 at 3:28pm
I've confirmed that the banding you're seeing in those pictures is from the set.

That said, it seems to be artificially introduced, because the contrast is way too high (set at 100%) - I reduced it greatly by turning the contrast and sharpness down. I'm also thinking that switching to Game mode will reduce it further. Like I was saying, the picture is good, but still needs adjusting.

As for an external video processor - this is a second set basically for gaming. I hear you on the recommendation, but this one is just not that important. I'm also concerned about any input lag a processor might introduce.

Speaking of which, there is no noticeable lag when the set is in GAME mode, but that's another thing I'll run through the paces, with a Guitar Hero test. I've been happy in multiplayer scenarios in Call of Duty though, and I usually game on an LCD.

I think I'll be hooking a computer to the set next. My PC has an NVidia card which has a LOT of nice color tools. I'm probably not going to leave the computer hooked up though, as my HDPC's TV remains the Sony.
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