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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 45

post #1321 of 1358
Yep...just hit the 2 year mark here...been feeding it through a DVDO Edge since the first day. We love it, anytime we're out and watching another set, we come home and appreciate the quality of our 60638.

We're still on the original bulb, I picked up a spare a few months ago.

Haven't upgraded firmware yet.

Also haven't played with 3D...I guess there are options now that do not require the 3DA-1? we do have a Panasonic DMP-BDT220
post #1322 of 1358
Anybody ever had to change the bulb after purchase ?


And are you still happy with the picture quality or are you going to switch to LED
post #1323 of 1358
Yes. Changing the lamp is normal. Its like having a new TV again
post #1324 of 1358
I have a 2010 60638 model that is having color problems.
Everything is pink.
What part needes replaced?
I was told it was DLP chip but sounds like color wheel.

post #1325 of 1358
Are you using HDMI cables or component cables? I ask because a loose component cable will cause the problem shown.
post #1326 of 1358
We were using HDMI cables.
I tried different ones but problem was still there and got worse over about 2 weeks.
post #1327 of 1358
Can't say it's the color wheel for sure. It could just as easily be a board or component failure. You should call an authorized tech to come out and take a look at it.
post #1328 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by marabunta View Post

Yep...just hit the 2 year mark here...been feeding it through a DVDO Edge since the first day. We love it, anytime we're out and watching another set, we come home and appreciate the quality of our 60638.

We're still on the original bulb, I picked up a spare a few months ago.

Haven't upgraded firmware yet.

Also haven't played with 3D...I guess there are options now that do not require the 3DA-1? we do have a Panasonic DMP-BDT220

Ive had my tv for just ovr 2 years now and still on the same bulb. got my tv on NOV 30th 2010
post #1329 of 1358
I did the firmware update....our set gets a lot of use but still on the original bulb (from 12/2010). I'll probably change it soon and keep the original for a spare.
post #1330 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

Anybody ever had to change the bulb after purchase ?


And are you still happy with the picture quality or are you going to switch to LED

I just dropped in a new lamp and purchased a new led for the bedroom and while the 47" led is nice, the new lamp in 73738 has me grinning from ear to ear:D
post #1331 of 1358
My 73638 has started what I can best describe as a pulsating in the lower left. Any ideas? I see it more on white backgrounds. No dimming. I'm still on the original bulb.
post #1332 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimB View Post

My 73638 has started what I can best describe as a pulsating in the lower left. Any ideas? I see it more on white backgrounds. No dimming. I'm still on the original bulb.
Sounds like a defect bulb or that the bulb is going. There might be a fix if your particular series of HDTV offers that feature and that's to set the bulb setting to a "high" setting. That should resolve the issue but that depends if you're HDTV has such a feature/setting. Otherwise crack open the wallet and get yourself a new bulb. FYI - I have a 73C11 and got "flickering" issue in the top right corner. And as you've mentioned it's only noticeable on high contrast images. I resolved the problem by turning the bulb setting to high. Others have reported the same problem which is most likely the result of a defective bulb or bulb that's about to go. For me, it's probably a defect in bulb since my set only has approximately 500 hours. You could try to remove the bulb and clean the connections. Hope that helps.
post #1333 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Can't say it's the color wheel for sure. It could just as easily be a board or component failure. You should call an authorized tech to come out and take a look at it.

Probably not worth having a person take a look at the HDTV since they'll most likely charge $100-$200 just to "look" at it. Then figure on another $100 in labor + $100-300 in parts. You'd be much better off buying a new 60" LCD/LED set on sale which are available for around $700. Or if you can find a 73C11/12 on sale for around that same price it's even a better deal. FYI - I doubt it's a color wheel issue since the odds of the wheel stopping on a section of all one color would be rare. Sounds like a chip or some other electronic component failed.
post #1334 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by One Big Ucker View Post

I have a 2010 60638 model that is having color problems.
Everything is pink.
What part needes replaced?
I was told it was DLP chip but sounds like color wheel.


Take a look at your service manual here ( http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/MITSUBISHI_V43_Service_Manual.pdf ) and see if it isn't too much of a task for you to take your set apart and give the color wheel a spin. Page 17 of the Service Manual explains how to get at your color wheel, which is the only real way to check if it spins freely. Could also be something wrong with one of the boards that tells the color wheel to spin. It is either that or bad bearings in the motor that spins the color wheel or the motor gave out completely. ShopJimmy sells your color wheel for about $61 but they are out of stock.
post #1335 of 1358
post #1336 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucid69 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Can't say it's the color wheel for sure. It could just as easily be a board or component failure. You should call an authorized tech to come out and take a look at it.

Probably not worth having a person take a look at the HDTV since they'll most likely charge $100-$200 just to "look" at it. Then figure on another $100 in labor + $100-300 in parts. You'd be much better off buying a new 60" LCD/LED set on sale which are available for around $700. Or if you can find a 73C11/12 on sale for around that same price it's even a better deal. FYI - I doubt it's a color wheel issue since the odds of the wheel stopping on a section of all one color would be rare. Sounds like a chip or some other electronic component failed.

I personally would replace every part in my Mits DLP before ever considering LCD TV for anything but a "bedroom" TV. ;P
post #1337 of 1358
So the XX638 may be an older TV but I just picked up a new one today from BB. My Sony 60A2000 developed an issue and the part was just as expensive as a new TV. I'd initially been leaning toward a Panasonic plasma but I just couldn't justify the cost as I'd been very happy with the picture of my Sony DLP and liked what I saw in the Mits as well. A 65" TV for $599! I just couldn't pass that price by. Anyhow, I see that Mitsubishi has a firmware update for the TV available on their website but it doesn't say what the the update does and if the update applies to my TV. Is there a way to tell based on the serial number of the TV? Was the update made post production of the model and thus apply to all models produced? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
post #1338 of 1358
Yes, it may be the color wheel, most likely the chip on the side of the color wheel, but you can not get that by itself so the complete color wheel is most likely what you need with its two little cables that it comes with. But before you buy a new color wheel try the index delay adjustment in the service menu. Another poster gave the link for the service manual, study it for the needed menu codes. Try NOT to do the resets as you may reset too many things, just follow the after a color wheel is changed part and see if you can get the color back to normal.
post #1339 of 1358
Thanks, am setting up dust free work room to work on it this weekend.
Will let you know.
Color wheels were only $56 and board was $165, so guess will look, then start cheap and work my way up.
We already got new 55" smart TV so this is just going to replace fat 55" HDTV in basement once repaired.
Hate to see $800 TV go to waste after only 2 years.
Thanks for the input.
post #1340 of 1358
yes, do let me know how it goes, another tip to keep in mind is to make sure the batteries in the remote are good, one day I was turning our wd-60638 on, it saw the command because it started to come on but stopped, the tv seemed not to know what to do, my wife said maybe the batteries need changing, not wanting to get up or believe my wife I had to try 3 more times with no luck, well I changed the batteries and everything was fine. I am glad to hear that you want to keep your 638 running, ours is at 2.5 years now and I like the DLP picture so I too plan on doing some maintenance when the time comes.
Edited by engineerglen - 4/24/13 at 11:41pm
post #1341 of 1358
One Big Ucker, which board did you get?
post #1342 of 1358
I just got the lamp and the part # matches with my old one but when I power up, light is on but screen is flickering with blueish green tint even with no input plugged in on the menu screen. I reseeded twice but doing the same thing... Is the new bulb bad? 73638 model.. nothing to reset via the menu right?

Picture looks okay for 15 seconds then the colors go off and the blinking starts.

And the original is back in and works. So do you think I should bother trying another or write this off and get the more expensive Philips OEM PHI/334?????
Edited by JimB - 5/7/13 at 5:53pm
post #1343 of 1358
I always recommend buying the lamp from Mitsibishi. I have seen countless posts from people whose TVs didn't work after they installed bargain lamps.
post #1344 of 1358
Hello,

We have had our Mits DLP 3DTV since around 2010 and I am noticing some slight flicker on the screen. Is there a way I can physically view the lamp hours or is that an internal timer that triggers the indicator lights? The color looks good. I can still use "bright" on the bulb energy setting but we always keep it standard. Any suggestions? Should I go ahead and buy a spare bulb while they are still around?
post #1345 of 1358
How do you change the bulb energy setting to 'Bright' I can't find it.
post #1346 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimB View Post

How do you change the bulb energy setting to 'Bright' I can't find it.

Menu/ Initial/ Energy
post #1347 of 1358
I don't have that option on the regular menu, picture/sound/setup/locks version 012.02 firmware.
post #1348 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimB View Post

I don't have that option on the regular menu, picture/sound/setup/locks version 012.02 firmware.

I have the 838, I thought the 638 had the same option in the menu system. sorry.
post #1349 of 1358
Hi to all, Well, with all this talk about lamps I am starting today to test the 2 lamps with housings that we got from Amazon in Feb of this year, I think it was like 63 bucks total for two lamps. The WD-60638 that I am using for the test has been working just fine, but if the new spare blubs are no good it would be better to know now and not in another year. I am not sure how long to run them for a test, maybe a week, I will be back with an update. The brand of these is Electrified with the part number of 915B441001, the two screws on the housing are a little different, I had to use a flat screwdriver on them, but other than that they look the same.
post #1350 of 1358
Quote:
Originally Posted by jevans64 View Post

Take a look at your service manual here ( http://www.audiolabga.com/pdf/MITSUBISHI_V43_Service_Manual.pdf ) and see if it isn't too much of a task for you to take your set apart and give the color wheel a spin. Page 17 of the Service Manual explains how to get at your color wheel, which is the only real way to check if it spins freely. Could also be something wrong with one of the boards that tells the color wheel to spin. It is either that or bad bearings in the motor that spins the color wheel or the motor gave out completely. ShopJimmy sells your color wheel for about $61 but they are out of stock.

Thanks for posting the service manual as it appears to cover multiple models.
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