2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 6

That's disappointing to hear about the banding. Usually you see that kind of stuff with 8 bit color. These sets should be 10 or 12 bit color, but it's not clearly defined as it is for the 738/838 - 12 bit. The banding could also be because of the video processor. But since you're inputting a 1080p signal that shouldn't be the case. Unless you have a mode/setting on that causes the video processor to kick in, example - like noise reduction, etc.. The game mode should default the video processor (more or less) so I would be interested in what the picture looks like in that mode. At least off of the 360.

the contrast ratio on dlp's are sadly not that great to begin with ...i read at best they get 12000:1 (i only read this after i bought it but still at the price i got it for i cant complain)... my entry level plasma got 30000:1 easily ... so you can see why i left it at the 100 percent default for contrast lol

also when i tweaked it the slightest i couldnt make out faces in dark scenes in movies... but im still tinkering around with it...i know by highering the brightness we can lower the contrast ..but that washes out the picture some...oh well we will have to see what we can come up with

great find
charles..i would like to enter it although i am alittle apprehensive..(afriad i might screw something up)

but maybe someone can find a hidden easter egg in it or something..possibly unlock this badboy to the 7 series

OK nevermind LOL im in the service menu..theres not much to do in here O_O ay yi yi

I honestly do not have that great of an eye. I do notice that the Mitsubishi doesn't look half as decent as my old plasma. Then again...I am just now getting into the tweaking aspect. So, perhaps I can still get the mitsu to look better than my overly old LG plasma.

As for now, it seems I will be calling Mitsubishi on Monday to have a tech come out. I have had the set for 2 1/2 months. What started as an intermittent issue is now growing into a giant pain in my @**. Sometimes on the dvd player/pc/tv I am seeing weird pink colors all the time. Sometimes green...but mostly pink. Looks as If I just got a bad set or something. I really regret buying this TV now. Not only am I having this major problem less than 3 months in...my wife sees rainbow effect and it bothers her. I will probably upgrade again in a year or two...but just the problems are annoying. I should not have to have a tech out in less than 3 months of ownership.

I just really need to find a 60+ inch 3d capable lcd or plasma...that isn't going to require me selling a kidney on the black mark to buy. I loved my set because of what I thought (at the time) to be a low price.

Any ideas on what could possibly be causing this? Any other ideas on how I could reduce the problem for my wife? She says she sees it mostly in black on white scenes.

3rd one the white face was not as white in the movie its the cam infact my cam made all the faces seem whiter than they are







last 2 were taken far away with zoom... i had no idea what i was doen

the camera does not do my bluray player any justice but these were with my latest settings.

I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.

while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.

and ive come up with this..


o Picture Mode : Bright
o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard
* Picture Settings
o Contrast : 72
o Brightness : 46
o Color :38
o Tint : 9
o Sharpness : 0
o Color Temperature : high
o Video Noise : Off
o film mode : off

These work very well for bluray as well..

these are all with HDMI(high speed) cable hookup

I know 72 for contrast seems nuts but try watching a movie with a lot of snow in(like skiing)...or scene where the sun is shining on a persons white shirt..you cant make out any detail in white scenes..just looks like a white blotch. 72 contrast helps this alot.(on bright mode)

what i should of said was OVERALL the sammy hl56a650 stands head and shoulders above the 60638. The feature set on the mitsu is poor compared to the sammy as well as the overall settings adjustments. That doesn`t mean i`m returning the mitsu. Why would i? $300.00 for a 60 inch dlp with a as new warranty. I honestly didn`t like the set after initially setting up the mitsu. the pic out of box was disappointing but after hooking up my blu ray and running an old video essentials disc i was able to fine tune the picture to my liking. I`m not one of those who likes increased colors. Don`t want the green grass so enhanced that it looks like something out of an easter basket. I prefer natural colors. Toning down a display to produce natural colors can be a lil difficult due to manufactures artifically enhancing settings to get your attention in order to buy their sets vs another manufacture. I will keep this set until the day when i can get my hands on a samsung hl60a750. A led dlp based set. No more lamp changes and no color wheel.

Well, calibrating a HDTV makes a big difference in how the picture looks. But it won't look the same as a plasma, they do after all use different display technologies. But it shouldn't look more than half as decent as an older plasma.


Sadly all manufactures have defective products and some products become defective before their time. It just sucks when it happens to someone and they need to get it corrected. But you should've returned the set once you're wife was known to see the rainbow effect since there's nothing that will eliminate that for her. That's one of the problems/issues with DLP but it usually only effects a small number of people.


Sadly, you won't find affordable LCD/Plasma HDTV sets with 3D this year. The industry has to "dump" the non-3D sets this year and early next since most people will only buy a 3D HDTV set going forward. That's why the prices have dropped so much. Heck, you can get a 60" LG 1080p non-3D HDTV plasma set for around 1200. You'd have to pay double or more than that just to get 3D in the same size set which is CRAZY. More so since there's very little 3D content on the market today and it will take 2-3yrs before that changes to any significant degree since new content has to be created. Sort of reminds me when HD "ready" TVs were being sold and there was limited HD channels available. Oh, and those sets sold for 2000-3000 for a 50".

But I wouldn't buy a set for the long term (5+ years) since large screen AMOLED sets are expected to hit the market in the next 2 years. These sets will BLOW away all HDTVs currently on the market. And by year 4-5 they will be just as affordable as the LCD sized sets of today, if not more. It will most likely be the end of LCD/Plasma as is used in HDTV sets and perhaps LCD for computer monitors. And if that happens the price will drop even more since there will be one display panel being made for all these devices. But of course, DLP can still be around since very large screen sizes are always a price pain for any physical panel display.

Thanks for the photos, it's always nice to see real world shots. But your movie selection is probably the worst to benchmark natural skin tone color. Well, it is after all a vampire movie.

What's the hour/minute/second that this shot is at in the movie? I'll extract just the frame so I can reference how it looks on an analog TV, LCD monitor, and on my 65C10 when it arrives (now 12/21 for delivery date). But since I'll be using a HTPC I should be able to dial up just the reds to hopefully get more of that pop factor as the film has and without blowing everything else out in the process.

i know what you mean lol but i have to watch movies i am familiar with so i can calibrate it by eye so i know what to look for...i'm not a pro so i dont use any of professional instruments to get it dead on to 6500k.

next time i watch new moon i will get that time for you.

I agree with these settings, they are pretty much identical to the look of my calibrated TV. I did several comparisons, and it looks the same. I think I'm about done futzing with it.

That said, I did one thing: I switched to GAME mode. There's not really a difference. I wanted to get rid of the post processing. By the way, using these settings, I don't have the issues I mentioned earlier in the thread. Solids are solid, no banding that I can see.

I have another set of settings that, while stepping away from calibration, I still like them. I don't RECOMMEND them, I think the settings above are most "right" and will use them, but I'm holding onto these other settings...

I've found calibrated sets put a lot of pink into peoples' faces, this gets rid of that (Game Mode, Brightness:55, Contrast:70, Color:41, Tint:20, Sharp:50, No video noise, Low temp). Again, this isn't calibrated color, just a setting I happen to like.

Good to hear the banding issue went away. But the GAME mode shouldn't be used for movies since I don't think it will do any 3:2 pulldown which could result in judder/jerky playback, because films are recorded at 24 fps. That's not an issue for gaming but it is for movies. I know you're using the set mostly for gaming but others aren't so they might not know better. Just wanted to clarify that for non-gamers out there.

Btw, any chance to get another screen shot so we can see how much better the set did with the banding issue?

i was just watching a tv channel that sells stuff and they had a mits 60 inch 3d
for a killer price here are some of the specs does this sound like a nice tv

Includes HDTV, remote control with 2 AA batteries, and HDMI cable
60" diagonal 3-D ready DLP display
Full HD 1080p resolution
120 Hz
StreamTV for access to a growing list of over 100 apps
Bluetooth audio streaming
Mitsubishi six-color processor
Plush 1080p 5G 12-bit video processing
Improved video noise reduction
Six 4:3/three 16:9 picture modes
EdgeEnhance
DeepField Imager
Four video modes: brilliant, bright, natural, game
Two internal loudspeakers
20W total audio output
Level sound dynamics limiter
Analog/digital/cable tuner
A/V adjustment
HDMI-PC compatibility
Three HDMI inputs
Two component AV inputs
Analog audio input
Ethernet input
USB input
Digital coaxial audio output
Analog audio output
3-D glasses emitter output; glasses not included

I am trying to get my WD-65638 working with my MX-850 remote. Does anyone have a working configuration with a similar URC remote? If so, can you send me a CCF, MXD or MXF file that I can import into the editor? The most important to me are simply the discrete Power On and Power Off functionality since all input will be coming from my receiver, but it would be nice to have all functionality available. I can learn all the functionality on the Mitsu remote, but obviously that doesn't cover discrete power codes.

Thanks,
Shane

i was watching it too...in HD it was sweet to watch a mit DLP in HD on on MIT DLP ..im not sure if it was 8 or 7 series but it had 100's of internet aps...man that thing was sweet.

Sounds like the 738 series model and on QVC. The prices they have listed are good but I can get the 73838 for 50 bucks more than they're selling the 738 in the same size. The only thing that makes me sad is seeing the size difference - the video on QVC shows 60, 73, and 82" models side by side. Makes me regret going with the 65". Yet, I have a 50" HDTV today so no matter what it's an upgrade. I just couldn't pull the trigger on the 73" model since I expect there to be a full frame DLP chip in the 2011 or 2012 models so I didn't want to be "locked" in to a new set for too many years. That's why I got the C10/638 series. Something to upgrade me for the next 3 years before looking at the newer sets vs. being locked into a set for 7-10 years because I spent around $2,000 on it.

I just purchased a WD-65638 and am loving it so far. I have yet to do any tuning, but I have noticed an issue during dark scenes where there is a light circle about 6 inches in diameter in the lower left-center of the screen. Is this something that can be adjusted with some tuning, is this a major problem and the TV should be returned, or is this expected with a rear projection DLP? I have attached some pictures since my description is pretty poor.

Thanks for your help,
Shane

That's not normal. If you bought the set locally then I would ask for a replacement. If online, then call Mitsubishi and have them send out someone to look at/repair the set.

You can try to use the "natural" setting to see if that helps but regardless of the setting you shouldn't be seeing that. Looks like something is loose in the light engine and causing a reflection of sorts.

I have a couple of shots here but issue that I am having is that my camera is adding garbage. Halos around people in some instances, jpg grossness, etc. It's like someone cranked up the sharpness on the camera. Oh well, I'll upload them, just bear in mind both TVs look better in person.

It doesn't help that I was taking pictures of the Bengals / Saints game. ORANGE EVERYWHERE.

Mitsu: http://i.imgur.com/cslwN.jpg
Sony (reference set): http://i.imgur.com/8j8dP.jpg

Picture to show you it's my camera's fault: http://i.imgur.com/wOiIo.jpg

At this point, the differences are largely camera. I'll take more shots in a bit with better material.

These are probably not representative, I don't know why my camera doesn't like taking consistent pictures of the rear projection set.

The mostly black shot is to show that I don't have that circle, Shane should probably take that TV back.

Mitsubishi shots:
http://i.imgur.com/5RX4I.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/AeSGB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fchGp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/chpMF.jpg

Sony Shots:
http://i.imgur.com/84v5O.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/A4MMs.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LrK60.jpg

EDIT - got rid of inline pictures / forum destroying width - sorry!

THESE mit pics much better....these are similar to my settings?

So if I'm understanding what discussion on this thread, the C10 (638) comes with a low-end video processor. Any signal that is put into the TV that isn't 1080p is converted by this low-end processor.

This TV will be used primarily for OTA HD signal. I get NBC in 1080i, FOX at 720p, ABC at 720p, PBS at 1080i, etc, etc. Will the video processor, while upping those to 1080p, effect the picture quality? If it does, it sounds like I can either get a cable card (any recommendations?) for the computer that will be hooked up it or an av receiver that does the conversion to 1080p.

I don't even have the TV yet and I'm starting to feel that this may have been a dumb purchase on my part, despite the really good deal I got. I sure hope I'm wrong.

These are your settings.

I just watched Terminator 2 over Netflix. Since taking these, I've been playing with Color at 41 and Tint at 15 to make the reds less angry / take just a pinch of the intensity out of the skintones. I think both settings work really well. Bringing the color setting down a bit also gives greens just an ever so slightly more earthlike tone.

At this point it's guesswork, cause these settings are fairly good.

You should be fine, I've been pleased with it. Just stick to the settings in this thread, because it looks like hell out of the box. I can't speak for the C10, but I can say that the 700 series must use a different processor than the 638 - the settings for the 700 series TVs look bad on this set.

I don't have a CableCard, my cable package is pretty limited. I've been sticking to the QAM stuff that all looks pretty good.

I go out of my way to avoid the processor, but that's cause I'm gaming. The Natural set up looks good. This set is a steal for the price I paid (600).

Since you're using OTA HD signal then just get a cheap dual tuner card for your PC - they can be had for like 30-60 bucks. That way, regardless of the station signal (720p, 1080i, 1080p, etc.) your PC will scale and output it to your HDTV as 1080p.

Other ways to avoid/limit the built in video processor is to get an external video processor - either in your AV rec. or like the DVDO Edge. Another alternative is to set the output from your cable/sat. box to 1080p (if it supports it).

It really depends on your viewing habits. If you watch a lot of TV then you'll need to look for one of those alternatives to make your set look it's best. But the best part about it all, all the alternatives will make even a high end/dollar set look better. There are video processors out there that costs thousands of dollars and will make even the highest end HDTV internal video processor look weak. Bottom line, if you never seen what the best of the best looks like, you'll not know the difference to begin with. But your bank account sure will.

For PC Tuner card which uses CableCARD - google Ceton InfiniTV.

For PC Tuner card which uses OTA/Cable non-encrypted channels - google AVerMedia. I use a AverTV HD Duet card that I got for $55 several months ago. Works great with Windows Media Center (Windows 7) and Comcast Basic Cable to get all the basic channels in HD. I would have to pay $15 more a month if I just had internet only so it's cheaper if I have Basic Cable added to my internet plan. Sadly, most don't realize you can get all the basic channels in HD for NOTHING but basic cable package. I don't even have a Comcast rec. or anything.

For External Video Processors - google Anchor Bay (DVDO Edge) and Denon AV rec., some of their rec. use the Anchor Bay chip for video processing.

Lucid are you SURE these tvs upconvert EVERYTHING to 1080p?

I have been watching the presentation on these tv's on all the shop tv channels...(hsn, qvc, shopnbc...) for well over a year now.... (needless to say i am obsessed with the whole mit dlp series)

and no matter who is the expert they have on the show selling it...they always say that the plush1080p upconverts STANDARD DEF.not high def...to 1080p.

Which makes sense to me...

do you have proof these tv's upconvert 720p/1080i to a fake 1080p

Im looking every where on the net and all I see is that it up converts Standard Def.

BTW this TV Shows a much better Standard Def picture than my plasma

Is there any reason people are taking contrast down to 65-75. I ran mine through DVE and THX optimizer and at 100 it passed all white tests for contrast. I do have a little bigger offsets on the tint, hue range though but the colors look amazing, not poppy just very accurate and great gradients.

I am a long time DLPaphobe and with the deal at BBY I couldn't pass it up. After I set it up and corrected for screen position and geometry this thing has one of the best pics I have ever seen.