2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 9

i hope its not true the c10 models being a flawed model because ihad the choice of getting a c10 from dell free shipping or a 638 from bestbuy with 80 shipping those 80 was something i couldnt afford at the time hope 80 isnt the difference between a piece of crap and a good tv because spec wise they the same and they even share the same owners manual

Natural Mode
Contrast 82
Brightness 60
Color 45
Tint +3
video Noise Reduction off
Color Temp Low

I liked these settings, not too harsh.

I will sell mine if the SSE and the "Invalid Format" errors still persist with the replacement unit.

I do not think it is a big difference between the two. They have the same manual and all, so when comparing carefully there were only a couple of minor differences. I do not remember off the top of my head, but I think it had something to do with one input, and the Energy Star 4.0. Nothing big.

M

How do you get the audio to work though? I have the 3.5mm plugged into my PC and then plugged into the red/white RCA plugs for Input 1 and a DVI to HDMI plgged into HDMI 1.

Can you somehow tell the TV that even though the source for video is HDMI, to use Input 1 for audio?


Well, if you boot into Safe Mode you'll get 800x600 which will display correctly. If you hit F8 and get into the Safe Mode menu, you can then load normal windows (non-safe mode) but with the resolution set to 640x480.

Then (assuming your drivers are already installed) you just switch it to 1920x1080. Works for me, despite the overscan issue I'm having because the crappy ATI Catalyst software won't open but that's a different issue.

Does anyone know if the USB port is useful for us? I believe the manual states that it's for "service repair" or something like that. I was wondering because I saw the wifi dongle their selling for the mit tv, it's on the official website, only list certain models. the C10 is not one of them Just Curious.

The spec. sheet on the Mitsubishi website clearly states that this PC supports 1920x1080 @ 24Hz, 30Hz, and 60Hz. It should work at 60Hz. Someone else stated that if you have an older graphics chipset that it might cause issues.

You can correct the overscan in two ways. Use an external video processor that has that feature (like the DVDO Edge) or if your graphic card drivers support it do it that way. I know Nvidia drivers support that feature but don't know if it's limited to certain/newer chipsets. But that won't help you if you have ATI and I don't know if they have that feature to do that.

Thanks for these settings, tried them last night and look good - will see how they wear with me. Just wanted to confirm though - you did not adjust the Sharpness setting?

I'd say this depends greatly on where your HDTV is shipping from. Most online retailers don't keep these items in stock. Rather, they're shipped directly from the manufactures or main distributors warehouse. And because of such, your set will be handled a lot less vs. being purchased locally.

Heh, I think you may be fooling yourself here.

I worked at Best Buy for a bit and the way TVs were treated as they were loaded and unloaded off the truck would make you not want to buy a TV from a retail store.

Lucid69 is accurate. If you buy a TV from a retail store it will first come from the manufacturers warehouse to the retail store's warehouse and then on a truck from that warehouse to the store -- then it's unloaded by people who make $8 an hour on a Friday/Sat night (so many times we wanted to go home and we'd just rush these big TVs off the truck, etc) moved out to the floor and put up on the shelves.

Instead, I ordered it online and it was shipped from a warehouse and carried into my living room by 2 guys. Done.

This is how it was a few years ago, anyway.

The C10 and 638 series sets have the same hardware. The only difference I can see on the sets is cosmetic - the lower bottom part of the set isn't glossy black on the C10 as it is on the 638 (at least what I can tell from the photos). Other than that these sets are identical. The main reason for offering two models which are the same is so retailers can market/price them differently.

cool I hate glossy anyways dust and fingerprints are so much more noticeable on them

Oh joy, I am getting my TV and stand delivered today via Best Buy who's delivery truck broke down today so these guys are out extra late in the frigid Wisconsin winter.

Which brings me to another topic...I am planning on letting the TV sit overnight in the warmth before turning it on.
Is this a wise move or overly precautionary?

could use some advice. I'm trying to decide between a 73" 737 or a 73" 638.

The 2009 is the step up version(though I have no clue the differences) but it is a couple hundred cheaper. Looks like neither will get a firmware update for 3D without the adapter, so what are the differences?

I am not one to change every detail in the settings. I would get a calibration disc and get it set once, and then probably not touch it for a while.

Any suggestions or facts about the 2? I have been reading up on threads, but it is hard to find actual differences.

invalid format just means the TV is blanking while waiting to sync up the signal. it has nothing to do with an actual invalid signal.

If you have some knowledge of the inner workings of the C10, maybe you can help shed some light on our issues. This is the thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1296844.

Cheers,

M

I'm such an idiot. The TV has a 3.5mm input for the PC. I can't believe I missed that.

In the Chicago cold here. I would do the same.

I'm trying to decide exactly the same thing. For the $550 difference, here's what I've gathered.

C10/638 Short Comings:
- Lower-end video processor, only affects non-1080p sources. Can be solved by external video processor (~$400) or HTPC. Granted, the ~$400 external video processor or HTPC would probably beat the video processor in xx738.
- No Advanced Video Calibration. Again, can be solved by external video processor (I think) or HTPC.
- Can only take checkerboard formatted 3D sources. Can be solved by buying the Mitsubishi Adaptor (~$100). Alternatively, if you plan on hooking up a HTPC, you might be able to make it output checkerboard format.
- No internet apps. Can be solved by having a blue-ray player with internet apps or HTPC.

Summary
If you are planning on watching most of your content via a HTPC, then you should get the C10/638. If not, the extra $550 for xx738 is worth it.

P.S. I am leaning towards a 73C10 myself since I'll be using it mostly for XBox 360 and movies/tv shows via XBox 360 or HTPC. By no means do I consider myself an expert in this, so if anyone thinks I'm making a bad decision, please let me know!

I've got a Pioneer BDP-320...

Is anyone having trouble getting the PC audio input to work? I hooked the PC up to input HDMI-1 using a DVI-to-HDMI cable and then a 3.5mm cable from the PC audio out to the TV, but I'm not getting any sound. My old LCD TV had a menu option that let you toggle between HDMI digital audio and analog audio. But this TV doesn't have that, so how can it tell if it should use the audio from the HDMI connection or the analog audio input?

thats for the stat listing yomogaocho, but I am trying to compare the 638 to the 737 from 2009.

Well, if you don't care that much about 3D and have devices that will input non-1080p signals then go with the 737. From what I can remember the 737 doesn't support DLP Link which causes a darker image in 3D mode. While the newer sets support DLP Link. With DLP link you don't need the emitter, the TV will flash a white burst image between frames which the glasses will pick up. You'll also need to get DLP Link glasses vs. the ones that come with the current kit. You can read up more about this elsewhere on this site.

Other than that, yes - the 737 is an upgrade. But I would make sure the 737 isn't open box and that you're getting it for 1400 or less. Otherwise, you should be able to score a 738 for around that price.

Outside of your needs, I'd say go with the 638 and if possible go with the 65". Why? In the next 2 years large screen AMOLED HDTVs will be hitting the market and will pretty much replace all the current TV types (probably within the next 5-8 years). The exception is DLP since display panels are usually pricey in larger sizes, at least for a while with AMOLED it will be that way (larger than 65"). Also, Mitsubishi will most likely be using a full frame DLP chip in the 2011 or 2012 models. Whether they use that chip in the lower end sets or keep on using the 1/2 frame DLP chip is not known. Either way, it will be a big improvement in video quality (sharper image) and will allow for full frame 3D. Instead, with the savings of going with a 65" 638 use it to get a HD projector (around 800-1000) so you can enjoy 90-120" during the evening/night with movies and sports. At the same time, you'll enjoy regular TV viewing better on a 65" set since the 73" set will make poorer quality signals look even worse - unless you're sitting a pretty good distance away from the set or don't have good eyesight.

I wanted to get the 73838 and almost placed my order for it. I was even able to get a hell of a deal - 1850 delivered. But at the end of the day and knowing what's coming to market in the near future I decided to go with a 65" set which was over 1100 less. My idea is that I can upgrade in 3-4 years vs. 7-10 years because I didn't spend so much on the set. Which will be about the time when the AMOLED sets are available and when 2nd gen versions of the DLP with the full frame DLP chip have been out.

Thanks for the input. I ended up getting the 737, it was $300 cheaper than the 638 so I just couldn't see that much more value in the lower end TV but an extra year.

I have had my eyes on a 73" for a while and sold my 56" Samsung DLP to pay for more than half of this set. With both needing the adapter to watch 3D, I didn't see any value on either one. I ended up paying $950 for the 737, but it was open box. Warranty will still count and I will likely add the Mack Warranty on top of it for 3 extra years.

I would like 3D, but I just can't justify spending $300-$400 just so 2 people can watch. I will kick myself if they do the rebate again very soon for a free starter kit.

I have a PS3 to play games and blu ray on top of just watching TV. And as much as I look forward to new technology, I have never been one to wait for it. I won't go out and get the top of the line, but I do want something big and cheap, lol. If something new and great comes out and isn't too expensive in 5 years, I could always try to sell this one and get that.

You would be better off getting a DVDO Edge for 350-400 vs the 738 series. The DVDO Edge will have more settings/controls/features and can be used on whatever HDTV you might get in the future. Also, you need to be aware that Mitsubishi will be using a new full frame DLP chip in the near future (starting in 2011 or 2012). So if you really care about image quality then you're better off waiting or going with the current cheaper models and then upgrading sooner than you would if you spent more for the current mid-higher end models.

Considering the deals that can be had for the C10/638 you would have to pay almost double the price for the 738 model in the same size (at least in the 60" and 65" sizes). The 73" it's about $600 more for the 738 and if you're resourceful only $750 more for the 73" 838. That's based on the Cyber Friday/Monday Dell deals which were the lowest prices I've seen for the C10 series of sets.

If you were able to catch the Dell Cyber deals then you could've gotten the C10 for 150 more than what you got the open box last year model for. The only thing that concerns me with open box on these kinds of sets is bulb wear. If they were demo models on the floor then the bulb won't have much of a life left. And if you have to get a warranty to cover any mysteries with an open box product then that kind of kills the savings. I've never been a big fan of extended warranties - they all have some kind of flaw that screws over the people that buy them (doesn't cover 100% or they make it a PITA to get repairs done/covered - just like health insurance).

I'm impressed that you were able to get more than 475 for your older 56" DLP set. I just don't see who would play that knowing that they could've gotten a new 60" DLP or 50" LCD for a little more.

Btw, you can do 3D on these sets for a lot less than 300-400. There's a place that sells 3D glasses for $59 each and have been rated equal or better to the one in the kits. And you can get the adapter for $100. But if you use a PC then you can forgo the adapter and spend like $20 for a emitter device to connect to your PC. So if one is using a HTPC, 3D can be had for under $140 bucks (2 glasses). Of course one has to be resourceful enough to do this kind of setup. But even with the 3D adapter you can do it for under $220. But the key thing is getting the glasses for $59, everyone else wants $100+ which is crazy.

I was able to get that much I think partly because I had the TV stand with it and the bulb was just replaced.

Also, that is why I was asking which would be better, the C10 or the 737. I came to the conclusion they are pretty equal.

Anyone else waiting on delivery? I ordered a 60638 from TigerDirect on Black Friday, my current status is "Backordered" :-(

Thanks,

Im waiting on my tv from Dell.com ordered it cyber monday should get it this week though also i received my SSG-2200AR's and i can see the reflection of the light on the sides like a mirror i hope its not so bad once i set up my 3d and start viewing it or else im not gonna be too happy lol

You should look into the 3D Heaven Ultra-Clear DLP LINK glasses. They're not only cheap (under 50/60 bucks each) but they're also rated as being just as good if not better than other 3D glasses. Once my set arrives they're on my list of items to purchase.