2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 10

yea ive read on them and such but i also read that dlp link's are not as good as IR glasses because they are more susceptible to ghosting and crosstalk or rainbow effect something like that also the 3dc-1000 brings 2 ir glasses with the kit with the emitter to my SSG-2200AR's i was interested in a good rechargeable pair simply because since this is my tv and 3 glasses covers the most guest i have in my room that i wanted a personal pair to just recharge and not have to buy batteries for the other two will be used so little that the batteries will last a long time.

Does nobody with this set use the discrete codes at all? I just saw on a thread in the remote control area that states that the C10/638 series does not support any discrete codes. Can that possibly be true? That makes me want to return the set and get the 738 series.

Sorry I guess I forgot to post my sharpness settings, here is the updated

Natural Mode
Contrast 82
Brightness 57
Color 45
Tint +3
Sharpness 15
video Noise Reduction off
film mode off (couldn't see any difference between off and on w/ blu ray)
Color Temp Low

This appears to be right. I have the C10 series which is virtually the same as the 638 series. I received a response email back from Mitz in the form of a .pdf image(sorry its a image so cant copy and paste) of the 2010 Direct access codes. At the end of the first paragraph it says "The C10 and 638 series DO NOT have direct function abilities and this document does not apply to these models" I use a Harmony One and had to learn the whole remote then use option 2 for the inputs. Works 80% of the time. If you turn off the TV in a input you didnt start with, you have to keep hitting the help button to get it back right. Cant understand why ANY TV manufacturer would make a theater TV without discrete inputs.

Maybe it's because I'm not a video guy but when I set my TV to these settings or any of the other ones here, it doesn't look as good as having it set to Brilliant and just tweaking some of the settings under that.

Also when the color temp is set to low, it seems faded and dull.

The picture looks great for OTA if the signal is 1080i and the 720p signal looks really nice but if you get up close you can see some slight issues. Since I have an HTC hooked up, does anyone recommend a HDTV tuner card that so my PC can convert it up to 1080p?

Are you use to rear projection screens? They're typically more "dull/natural" with color but that depends a lot on the source content. Usually the News is a lot more punchy and movies seem to be more "film" like with not a lot of over saturated colors like one typically sees on LCD displays, they're also overly bright. But even with that said, I would visit a local store which has either the C10/638 on demo in a semi-dark room and punch in your settings to see how it compares. That will rule out any possible defects with the set.

See my previous posts with the card I use. Forget the name off hand, it's one of those things where you install and forget about it. But the Tuner and recordings look great on my old 50" Sony Wega HDTV, so long as the source content of the channel is good. FOX prime time shows that are 720p look good (House M.D.) but they obviously can't compare to a 1080i/p source. So don't expect your PC to do miracles. But it should do better scaling than what the C10/638 do.

Users, can someone tell me if the C10 has a lamp timer? If so, where do I go to find it? Another question, is anyone having this issue: When I turn on the tv, the sound does not come on. I've even waited like 5 mins or more and nothing. I have to shut it off, I'll wait 30 secs and turn back on and the sound is back. I'm wondering if it's defective? Any suggestions? thanks in advance for replies.

I hooked up the 3d kit today and while playing cod black ops I heard a crackling sound coming from the tv. Now anything I hook up to hdmi1 has a bunch of white dots all over the screen. Hdmi 2 & 3 are ok though. Time to take this baby back.

These settings aren't set by eye and yes to the untrained eye they are much dimmer than the brilliant mode however, brightnesss does not good picture quality make. The are set to HD 709 standard for color or at least as close to the standard as the TVs settings allow. Look at flesh tones, grass, or a stark white background on the brilliant mode. With the high or cool color mode flesh tones will have extra red and everyone will look blush, grass will have neon tinge too it, and all stark white will have a blue tinge to it. In low the greyscale is somewhat more accurate therefore these problems are not as obvious and actually the colors look quite accurate.

I hope this helps better educate your eyes, if these things aren't important to you then, who cares, watch what you like how you like it, heck its your TV. My eyes prefer accurate color and hate torch mode, eye fatigue comes into play for some people too with torch mode.

hes correct...i at first thought brilliant looked great until i wasnt watching animation...and realized all the skin tones on peoples faces looked like they had rosacea. Also not to mention you will Burn the Lamp out Very quickly.

Hello, I just bought one of these 65" 638 series 3-d ready tv. My own bulb must be getting dim because I cant seem to find out the 5 digit code for the tv remote, so I can program my Onkyo receiver remote to run the tv. Can anybody brighten up my bulb? (PS the tv is fine.. its the operator )

Buy a Harmony remote with the money you saved...thank me later. Check mitsubisi's website im sure they have an FAQ somewhere that will have the answer to your questions.

You may recall that I'm waiting on a 60638 from TigerDirect that's been on backorder since Black Friday. Just now I got a marketing email from them that they have some open box 60738 priced the same with free shipping! 65638 and 73638 discounted heavily too.
Went to check my order again and the 60638 is already at the shippers.
I think you guys have me sold on the DVDO Edge to feed it, so I'm thinking I'll stick with the 638.
I just moved our little-used Sony KV27-FS210 out of the basement into our bedroom and the SD stuff looks SO much better than on our current 47" Panny HD RPTV.

I purchased this TV back in September I think. My question is the lack of depth to the images. My brother-in-law has a 52" Vizio LED TV and his HD cable channels have depth to them, as well as a friend's 55" Samsung LCD; where as the images on the 60638 seem flat, though good image quality and color, still flat.

Is this just the difference between the LCD and the DLP, or do I have something setup wrong on this TV?

Its like comparing apples and oranges...DLP is projection technology ...so its like if you were to go to a movie theater and watch it there...it doesn't look like it does say if you were watching it on a LCD tv or LED(the newest technology and cousin to lcd)...

Both technologies have their strengths and weaknesses...but obviously if you have been used to viewing something for a very long time ..you would be more biased towards that.

as a owner of a LCD i can tell you right off the bat the main weakness of them is contrast ratio.. and EYE strain! they just cant give you deep blacks like other tv technologies can..and then try watching an LCD 37inch or more in a dim light room for the length of a movie...then turn it off and leave the room...your eyes will kill you like crazy!

I disagree. As an owner of a 46" Toshiba LCD, 55" Toshiba LED LCD 3D TV, and a Mitsubishi WD-60C10 (60"), I have the following remarks:

1. The Mitsu is a truly good deal, thinking about what you get for the price (I paid 600 USD for that 60 inch).

2. However, the Mitsu DLP screen suffers from substantial Silk Screen Effect (SSE), which is particularly apparent in brighter areas / white areas.

3. If you come from LCD or Plasma, chances are you will notice the SSE: A grainy layer on the screen, which makes you wonder if you forgot to remove some sort of protective film.

4. The SSE makes my eyes hurt after just a couple of hours gaming on the PS3, while on my LCD screens i can sit for hours without noticing anything.

As mentioned, I currently own LED LCD, "normal" LCD and DLP. The above is just my personal opinion.

The LED LCD is 55 inch with an MSRP of over 3,000 USD, so considering the fact that you get a 60 inch 3D TV for 600 USD I think most people can live with a little SSE. You tend to forget about it when watching movies.

M

I have a plasma and a lcd... and i havent experienced any of the silk screen effect...i thought i was but then someone said the rainbows wasnt that. Also ive noticed as ive been watching the DLP more an more the rainbows i was seeing are few and far between now.

Fortunately I do not have any noticeable rainbow effect I will report back, once I get the replacement WD-60C10, whether or not it has the same level of SSE.

Best,

M

Are you sure you're not confusing content (film/compression) grain as SSE? Rear projections usually show more content grain in the image and not all of it is from the screen. Part of that is also coming from the video signal being processed by the set - both by the video processor and the optical system. Also, you're dealing with a larger screen. The screen is about 4-5% larger than the actual display because of overscan. So your 60" Mit is really a 62" which is about 13% bigger diagonally vs. a 55" and without the overscan it's 19% more screen area vs. your 55". That's a pretty big difference so you can't really compare smaller screens equally to this one.

To me LCD/Plasma sets show a lot more content (compression) artifacts than rear projection sets typically do which annoys me. Plus plasma has huge screen glare and LCDs usually suffer judder, black crush, and are overly bright. I've also noticed that all of these things are worse the larger the LCD/Plasma set is. Films are not pixel perfect which is probably why I don't enjoy those kinds of displays for TV/movie watching. In a light controlled room a good plasma owns LCD, LED/LCD, DLP sets. But if I'm going to have a light controlled room then I might as well go with a front projector.

The content you input plays a big part in all of this. Feed your set 1080p content from a Blu ray 3D animation movie and report back on the SSE you see. If you still see a ton of SSE then you have a defective set, bad calibration settings, sitting/viewing too close, and/or have really good eye sight.

My set arrives tomorrow so I'll be able to report back with photos and 720p video from my camera as to the video quality of the unit in a home setting. I've seen these sets at the store but it's hard to accurately judge them in those environments - not calibrated, bad lighting, unknown/bad content being feed to the set, etc.. My biggest concern is how well the set does with crappy content - grainy, over compressed, and/or lower resolutions (even if upscaled to 1080p from my HTPC) content.

It is not a ton of SSE, it is simply noticeable and frustrating compared to an LCD/Plasma that does not exhibit these characteristics.

There are most definitely upsides and downsides to all technologies, but the SSE effect is distorting the picture slightly, so for me there is no question about the winner when comparing the picture quality. It is not fair however, to compare a $600 TV to a $1,500 TV (one of my LCDs). The WD-60C10 is truly a lot of value for the price.

I only play high definition content on the TV, I do not have any SD material. 90% of this is in 1080P, like the animated movie "UP" which won an Oscar for best animated movie with particular focus on the amazing graphics. When it comes to SSE you can clearly see that it has nothing to do with the movie itself, or even the graphic processing of the TV. The problem lies in the screen material, and it is as mentioned as if a layer is placed on top of the screen that you forgot to remove. Another way to say it is that it feels like the screen is infused with see-through caviar. When the picture moves around, the layer stays exactly the same, so it is a very simple effect to recognize. The SSE remains identical, no matter what signal is showing on the TV.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silk_screen_effect for more info.

My Sony 50" rear projection has very little SSE and you would have to get within 5 feet to really notice it (and look for it). But at that distance you would see SDE as well, partly because the set is 720p in native resolution. That's why I'm a bit surprised to the level of SSE you are seeing. More so since I didn't see it on these sets in the store, even when I was up close. I did see SDE but that is to be expected when so close to a set.

All the current display technologies are nothing but compromises. Hopefully AMOLED will correct that in the near future (minus screen glare/outdoor light washing issues). How one views picture quality is a mixed beast. Especially if you judge film sources to pixel accurate displays (with fixed resolutions but various screen sizes). I find that LCD/Plasma have more clarity/sharpness vs rear/front projection. Everything else - color, saturation, contrast ratio, etc. are set specific and not so much display limited. While these sets are a lot of value for the amount they were going for during the Cyber Friday/Monday special it just sounded like you were rating these sets rather low based on the SSE. Perhaps you got a defective unit - maybe the optics weren't aligned/focused correctly, screen was bad, etc. so to make the SSE more present then it should. Hopefully that's the case since I didn't see what you're seeing in the stores on these sets.

The one thing that I did see on the lower end set that I didn't see on the higher end series is more picture "grain" in the image. But that could be because of the source, lighting, calibration, etc. since I wasn't able to find this series at the same store as the higher end units to compare in a more equal environment.

Btw, some other things that might reduce SSE - watch the set at the correct height where your eyes are about the same level and position as the center of the screen (or if possible a bit lower). Also, reduce or eliminate any other light from hitting the screen. Light reduction isn't always possible but perhaps the screens on these units amplify the effect with ambient light.

I wonder if the wobbulation these sets do is adding to the SSE that you're seeing since the pixel structure is overlapped at 120hz. That does give the image a slight hazer/washed out look vs. pixel accurate displays like plasma/LCD. But if you're seeing screen specific SSE where you can see the change by pushing in the screen with your figure then it's in the screen itself.

Hi Lucid,

I am receiving a replacement unit tomorrow (due to Invalid Format errors, see my other thread if interested), so I will report back on the SSE then. The effect is hard to spot on black / dark backgrounds. It is visible in bright areas, especially when the background is white. Therefore, reducing the brightness on the screen will help to reduce the SSE.

If you pause a blu-ray at a bright white background, or have a disc with white background as the top menu, you will recognize it immediately. My girlfriend, who is not an A/V enthusiast, noticed it when I told here to check out the picture, but also said she forgot about it during movies, and that she thought the home cinema experience was great, despite my complaints hehe. So, for most people, this won't mean much.

Very interested to see if the SSE is any better on your replacement set. I remain frustrated with it on mine and am probably going back to plasma.

I actually wanted to try plasma, but had to pass the temptation as I frequently use the TV with a computer. Couldn't take the risk of turning the flatscreen into a wall-picture I will report back tomorrow around noon.

M

I agree. I have had a rear projection set for the past 8 years or so and these settings just don't look "right" to me. Skin tones do look more natural, but something definitely seems dull in the picture. Even the Comcast blue menu guides seem to be a very dull blue. Are my eyes just used to an overly bright picture for some reason? How much do people vary the settings on these units? Should I try a bunch of different options or am I better served just waiting it out until my eyes adjust to this new way of watching TV?

I've had the WD-60C10 for 5 days so I thought I'd share my thoughts.

First off, the picture really looks great. We sit about 12'-13' back and we use it for OTA channels and we have an PC hooked up to watch various AVI and MKV files. I've really impressed. I have a 46" Sony KDL-46V4100 and I think it looks just as good.

OTA 1080i looks great. We watched football and basketball and were really impressed with the picture. I do have a signal amplifier installed and get full signal. The 720p station also looks really nice and if you get up closer and squint you can notice a slight difference from the 1080i signal but who does that.

I adjusted the picture settings slightly but I just don't have a problem with the default settings. Faces don't look red/blush like some say with brilliant set and when I try some of the settings posted here, things look dull, yellowish and not as sharp.

Anyway, great deal for a 65" TV. Hopefully the 3D glasses go down in price, I'd really like to try that but not for $350 or whatever.

(note: I don't really have a good eye for any slight picture problems, so this is just the opinion of a guy who wanted a 65" TV for a low price)

I think it is possible too get a fantastic picture calibrated starting from the brilliant setting...The thing is BE Prepared to be spending about 100 dollars on lamps once a year...

From what ive been reading the lamps on these sets get at best with *on average viewing of 8 hours* aday a little over almost a year and a half. before Lamp blow out. and thats with the settings on Natural ...Now these are just from different sites ive been reading that people have bought it from...I dont know how true it is......but I'm not risking 100bucks a year.


to be honest i was made to believe that these lamps lasted 3-5 years...had i known it could be as little as 1 year i dont know i would have bought this TV. I'm Not switching my tv viewing habits though so were going to see how many days this puppy gets. and i watch ALOT of TV. I can deal with 2 years...

Does Mitsubishi offer the 1st replacement lamp for free? I thought I remember reading that somewhere. I only watch a few hours per day at most and I got a great deal on the TV, so I think I am going to try to get the "best" picture and not worry about the lamp life. Does anyone have any recommended settings to use when in brilliant mode?

Can i ask where you read that? For one, these sets use the "MITSUBISHI 915B441001" bulb, which seems to be "new" for this year; i don't believe the *38 (2010 model year) TVs have even been out for more than a year, so how can we say that they at best burn out in 1.5 years?

Anyway, before my Samsung died of a fan issue (of all things, though i am still going to try to repair it), its bulb easily was used 8 hours a day, and lasted 3 years (and was bought as a floor model, thus already had some use). Right now, the bulb is $79 from a reputable ebay store (free shipping too). If you are really worried, buy a bulb right now, and store it away, and count it with the price of the TV. If it ever goes out, you are set for another few years..