2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 2

just bought the 60inch version of the 638 fri. at tigerdirect ...should be here by the 6th...i canceled a 50inch plasma on layaway for this

I already have a plasma and while i think its better than lcd they still have thier flaws. soooo after watching the shop nbc segments on these badboys all year long (that salesman is good btw) The DLP had my heart...and in the end i finally ended up with it.


JUST ONE THING ....I am alittle scared about the bulb life ofthese things...only after i bought did i read some people replacing them every year! and i watch alot of tv

Went to HH Gregg last night and bought the 60-638 and the Panasonic BD-65 to make it shine. Delivery on Tuesday. Plan to inaugurate with BluRay of JJ Abrams' Star Trek which I've had since last Christmas.

I just got my 60638 back at the end of September. For the most part I love it, though as far as picture quality goes the (now bedroom) 42 plasma takes it. However...60 inches for $800, Not a bad deal. It went on sale for 699 for Black Friday though

Has anyone else had any problems with theirs though? I have an occasional dimming/brightening back up so far only noticed on the pc input...possibly my pc. However, I have seen this...pink/green hue around objects though that is extremely intermittent. I have only seen it maybe 3 or 4 times in 2 months. Clouds are the worst when it happens, they are outlined pink. Oh, at one point a squids tentacle was deep purple...I'm not even sure how to describe it other than a color that is not supposed to be there. At one point everyones face in a movie was outlined in green especially in shadow areas.

Thank you poster for finally creating a 638 thread!!! Couldn't talk myself or my wife into the 738 series. Had I known updates were only available for 738 and up though...I would have more than likely changed my mind on that. Also...THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR LETTING EVERYONE KNOW ABOUT THE FREE 3D KIT DEAL!!! Excited is an understatement. Finally, a way to use the PS3 in 3D and not just the PC.

it seems that everyone's biggest gripe with this TV is PQ when they're in PC input...I dont have this tv yet but it doesn't take an owner to know that no matter what TV technology you have when in the "pc input" you're not going to have all of the features of the tv. as you would if you were in HDMI or component for example

Will this model ever recieve a 3D firmware upgrade? I have a WD60638 on order, which I got for $599 shipped (couldn't pass that up), But spending another $500+ for a 3D kit and additional set of glasses is unlikely.

I'm confused. The 638 models says 120hz sub-frame. Is this the same as the smooth 120hz on the 738 models?

i dont know...tiger direct lists this tv as 120hz but best buy lists it as 60... it says its 120hz sub-frame in the specs ...but what does that mean

i found this link http://www.eanswer.com/questions/41d...e-is-it-truely

Hello everyone, another newby. I just ordered this tv from Dell seemed like a great price, 589.99 + tx, free shipping. being delivered tuesday/wednesday. I'm thinking about returning only because I don't know much about the DLP RPTV's. Concerned about a few things, one being the Lamp and it's replacement costs. The hours of operation for one lamp seem to very widely. Is this a good product? The one I'm getting is the WD-60C10. Also is this a 2010 model? Thanks for your input and replies in advance.

Mitsubishi warranty covers the lamp for a year... after that replacements from Mits are $99

The c10's are 2010 models, but not slated to get 3d firmware upgrades, so you will need the adapter if you want 3d

99 is decent considering they are 150 on amazon, 129 on ebay. the only thing on ebay thats 99 is JUST the Bulb.

I just wanted to mention Dell has the Mitsubishi WD-65C10 on sale for $729 and the WD-60C10 for $599 with free shipping for both. I see a 65 in my near future!

Hello all, I just jumped on the DLP bandwagon and bought a WD60638 from BestBuy.com for $599. I am very excited to get the big screen but I know that menu settings are limited compared to the 738 series Mitsubishi's.

I wanted to know if anyone has tried a calibration disc such as the highly acclaimed Spears and Munsil HD benchmark Blu-Ray? If so were you able to make visible differences?

http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/hdbenchmark.html

I am replacing a Panasonic 1080i HDTV that also has limited menu settings and I have only ran the THX optimizer setup before.

Glad we have a 638 series thread!

Can anyone confirm the 638 will not receive the firmware update that the 738 will receive which will allow it to handle 3d signals without the adapter?

I just ordered the 73638 from Amazon the other day for $1199 which I thought was a decent price. However, if the 638 is not going to receive the firmware update I think I will hurry and cancel my order and get the 738 instead...

Thanks in advance!

found these off a site ...they're for the 60inch version of the 7series....(professionally calibrated) http://www.tweaktv.com/tweak-my-tv/c...i-wd60738.html

Im going to plug them into my 60638 when it arrives this week..cant hurt...

638 has no scheduled update...

At the end of the day, the firmware update only saves you the $100 for the 3D-adapter. You still need to buy glasses, and possibly an emitter, depending on the glasses you buy

Good find! Please let us know what you think of the settings. My TV will not be here till the 10th. I noticed that for the 738 many of the options such as Edge enhancer and DeepField Imager that are not on the 638's are turned off.

In the vast majority of the Home Theater Mag reviews with TV's they turn off all (or most of) the options as well to yield truest pictures results.

So i just got this t.v. on Black friday for $599, and I'am confused on what 120 sub frame rate is. I called mits customer service and the guy said it was 60hz. not 120hz. it will only be 120hz. for 3D movies. That is not what the spec. said. Also will the 700 HD HDMI Monster cable work or should i get the 1000 HDMI cable? I'am confused also on the settings for video noise (whats this) off, low, medium, high/ Also the settings for color temperature low medium, and high. I currently have it at high but dont know what this color temp. is. Also How do i know the series i have? WD-60638 is what it says but I seen the same t.v. and it was called C10 what gives? Please help this newbie out, First big screen purchase so this is new to me this high def. stuff. also if you can tell me that 2160 joules is good protection for this t.v.? Thanks

If I get the 3d starter kit for my 73638 will any 3d blu ray player work? I am looking at this one. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-BDP-S470-...N%3DB0036WS4CK

NEVER BUY MONSTER CABLE unless you want to be ripped off....

Mitsubishi suggests you get a high speed HDMI that would be This cable

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-H...1067541&sr=8-1

its 8bucks I am buying 2 of them right now. Monster cable charges 119 for high speed

TRY these settings for your tv ...they're professionally Calibrated for the 7 series 60inch...let us know how you like them.

User Menu Settings

* Picture Modes
o Picture Mode : Natural
o Color Temperature : Low
o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard
* Picture Settings
o Contrast : 50
o Brightness : 33
o Color : 31
o Tint : 30
o Sharpness : 31
o Color Temperature : Low
o Video Noise : Off
o Edge Enhance : Off
o DeepField Imager : Off

Unfortunately, alot of the confusion comes from maker's terminology. The TV does 120Hz in what they call "sub-frame" - the actual assembly of the frame is done at 120Hz, but each full frame is refreshed at 60Hz. The 3D is a little more difficult for me to explain, but in the end, the 3D effect ends up at 60Hz as well. No part of these TVs actually refresh the full image at 120Hz.


You should get neither, as Monster is one of the biggest rip offs going. There is nothing particularly special about HDMI cables, and what Monster charges you over $100 for, costs them around $.15 to make. Monoprice (among others you will see recommended around here) makes excellent cables, and doesn't charge an arm and leg for.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10240


Color temperature is a little difficult for me to explain, but a warm color temp will give a more overall red appearance to a scene (sort of like being outdoors, in the more orange sunlight), with cool giving things a more blue appearance (like a blueish tungsten light).

In regards to series, there are 4 main series this year: xxC10, xx638 (what you have), xx738, xx838 (the xx being the screen size in inches). There really isn't a heck of alot of difference between the C10 and 638, and they do share a manual even.

Finally - the power strip strongly depends on what else will be attached to it; if its just the TV, you should be ok.

Thanks for the info. I could have searched for it I'm sure, but it's nice seeing a response in the thread of a TV you own (or will about to).

I bought the WD-65C10 for a pretty good deal and missed the whole sub-frame stuff. The TV will be used almost primarily for an OTA HD antenna (football and basketball mainly) and will have a PC hooked up via HDMI to watch videos and the such.

Will this sub-frame 120Hz vs. an actual 120Hz effect those pictures? Will I notice? I'm not a video buff but I want a smooth picture. I'm really excited about the TV and would hate to send it back because I missed this detail.

i think that the 120hz sub frame is just a gimmick kind of like the 600hz thing is for plasma tv....it means that when you watch blurays and tv you get all the feel of 120hz(cos the DLP is 100percent digital fast)...but when you hook it up to a PC its still 60hz. Same with plasma...Those things are so freakin fast they just label them as 600hz...but when used as a PC monitor...60hz.

Yeah I have the same question. I ordered a 73c10 thinking it qualified and not until I printed the rebate form (which you cannot do without a serial number) did I see the note that the only sets that qualify are LT-55154, WD-60738, WD-65738, WD-73738, WD-82738,
WD-65838, WD-73838, WD-82838.

Odd since most of not all of those will not require an adapter after the firmware update that just came out. I am wondering if this footnote only applies to the 2 pair of 3d glasses part of the offer. I sent in the form anyway and as soon as I hear something I will post.

I am going to be a little pissed if this set doesn't qualify since there was no way to know until I had the set. Why would all the models be in the drop down to select if they don't qualify?

Yes, they do qualify. People here and on other forums have called mits and verified this (as long as you ordered by the cutoff date). You should have no problem getting your kit.

Can you supply a link to repsonses where you read this? If anything, I would think the 638/C10 series of sets would benefit from a PC (or video processor) being hooked up to in. Mainly because these sets lack the better video processor that the 738/838 series have. Example - Smooth120 (for "blur"), Plush1080p 5G 12-bit video processing (for 1080p upscaling of lower resolution content - C10/658 state as not using 5G version of this chip), EdgeEnhance, Dark Detailer (838 only), PerfectColor & PerfectTint are only on the higher model series. But most that care about video quality would disable these features, except for PerfectColor & PerfectTint since they will allow you to calibrate the set better. But the PC can be used to make up for the lack of PerfectColor & PerfectTint existing on the C10/638 (when playing video from the PC - HDTV, movies, photos, etc.). Plus with PowerDVD you can playback DVDs with better upscaling, along with making those DVDs 3D (with the Mitsubishi 3D adapter).

So long as the PC fills in for the features that are missing, you should see little difference between the 2010 DLP line of HDTVs. But the PC has to be set to 1080p output so that it avoids using the lesser quality Plush1080p (none 5G) upscaler (the one in the C10/658 isn't as good as the one in the 738/838). Also, the Dark Detailer (on the 838 only) will give you better blacks (less black crush) than on all the other models of this HDTV, which is scene specific (when a scene has dark and light elements). And there's no way a PC can fill in for the Dark Detailer since that's a physical iris in the display of the 838 sets.

Sounds to me that the people that reported worse video quality when using a PC didn't calibrate the HDTV when using the PC (using both the PC and the HDTV calibration options).

Thanks, I did try those settings but it did not look good. Your model is different from 60638. What is video noise? Has anyone watched football yet on the 60638 60 inch in HD yet? I dont want blurred or ghosting while watching football or any fast action/moving sport. I'am still waiting for satellite to update my reciever to HD. Thanks for all the help. I read bad reviews on the cheaper HDMI cables not giving proper signal, etc. and the fix was the expensive MC's. I got the 700 HD High Speed HDMI cable, haven't used it yet, but that should be ok or am i wrong?

These sets shouldn't show blur or ghosting, that's mainly an issue with LED/LCD HDTV sets. Since the C10/638 sets have a lesser quality video processor (not the Plush1080p G5) chip your non 1080p video will not look as good. Also realize, that not all broadcasts are in 1080p (FOX has a lot of programming at 720p). Hopefully your new HD rec. does the "upscaling" for you instead of your HDTV (will have a setting to always output 1080p).

As for cables, go to monoprice and get a "high speed" or "category 2" HDMI cable (they're both the same) for a few bucks. The cables are digital so there is no quality difference from Monster Cables vs. others. Only that they're labeled "high speed" or "category 2" HDMI. These cables can handle a bandwidth of 340Mhz. But don't think of these as HDMI 1.3 or 1.4 cables, that's the specifications (features) of a HDMI version at the device level. HDMI standards are designed to scale. So while the "max" bandwidth is currently set at "340Mhz", the specifications use more and more of that available bandwidth as features are added in different versions of HDMI. And not all features/specifications are added to a HDTV. Example: A HDMI v1.3a-1.3c set doesn't mean it has DeepColor, it's an optional specification for that version of HDMI. Not to mention, there's no source content you can buy that uses DeepColor (Blu-rays, DVDs, etc.). Most people don't realize this simple fact and say that there are no bandwidth differences between v1.3 and v1.4, which there is - at the device level.

I cannot emphasize this enough - the monster cable is overpriced junk. Most HDMI cables are just fine, the ones from Monoprice especially. Because they are pure digital connections, your REALLY have to work to make a bad quality cable.

just got the TV today and I didnt like them either...WAYto dim....but ive been tinkering around for the past 2 hours while watching the messenger...

I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.

while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.

and ive come up with this..


I found the perfect settings for me finally. anyone is welcome to try them.

while the other settings looked good i really didnt like having to switch from the different modes for sports, and bluray, and tv. So I tried to get one mode just right to watch for everything..and also was Bright. I dont have a controlled lit room so i wanted the tv to be bright enough to handle daytime viewing.

and ive come up with this..


o Picture Mode : Bright
o Aspect Ratio/Format : Standard
* Picture Settings
o Contrast : 72
o Brightness : 46
o Color :38
o Tint : 9
o Sharpness : 0
o Color Temperature : high
o Video Noise : Off
o film mode : off

These work very well for bluray as well..

these are all with HDMI(high speed) cable hookup

I know 72 for contrast seems nuts but try watching a movie with a lot of snow in(like skiing)...or scene where the sun is shining on a persons white shirt..you cant make out any detail in white scenes..just looks like a white blotch. 72 contrast helps this alot.(on bright mode)


btw i have the 60638 too but i went with those settings i found because i couldnt find any for ours lol....

also video noise is suppose to get rid of
screen "static" like used to happen with over the air analog channels. or when to many wires are touching each other. this would be a good feature if not the loss of detail in the picture.