2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 13

It appears that the yellow is slightly off which could be causing what you're seeing under certain yellow/orange colors/shades. Sadly, there's no individual color settings so it can't be corrected. One option is to deal with the color being off or making tint adjustments for the kind of content that shows this problem (which is a small amount from what I could find in my TV only viewing - haven't seen a movie yet that showed an issue with orange). The best option is to use a PC as a source or a external video processor to correct the issue. This is my next step but might take me a while since I'm still enjoying my new HDTV for movies. I haven't even connected my Xbox 360 yet to play any games. Gears of War has to look great. Can only imagine what it would be like using a PC to play that title in 3D. :O)

youre right the yellow is off cos when i watching the steelers game thier jerseys and pants looked more golden orange-ish than steeler yellow.

but the Natural settings looked fine....

and youre right ..definitely is a shame there isnt individual color controls.

Scanning channels I saw tonights NFL game and the tint settings under Brilliant showed a clear problem - the grass was more brown than green. Both Bright and Natural showed the correct grass color. Oddly enough, I found if you make the Tint values I gave positive vs. negative that it fixes the grass color problem. But that also throws the "technical" calibration out of whack. I wonder if the video processor is freaking out under the Brilliant mode under certain conditions since the Bright mode settings I listed are using even more of a negative Tint value than the Brilliant mode.

Either way, I'll recommend that people use the positive numbers for the Tint in Brilliant settings I gave.

Boy, looks like I'm going to have a lot of fun dialing in this set when it finally arrives, eh?

With the DVDO Edge, I'm wondering what TV settings I should start with before changing up the EDGE's settings?

There is a light coming about 8 to 10 inches in from the left of the base. I do not remember seeing this originally. Is this normal?

 

attachments_2010_12_20.zip 26.2841796875k . file

It's normal. My Sony had some light exit but was contained so you didn't see it - I think they angled the venting on the Sony while the Mits is a straight out vent from the light engine, or so it appears.

I want to bump this question, since i may end up in the same situation (plugging in my BluRay, Cable, and PC via HDMI, and having the TV pass through the digital out to my stereo system). Any one have any ideas?

Hard to say. The Natural picture mode doesn't allow for full saturated reds and I don't know if you'll be able to push those levels with an external device - the HDTV's video processor might "cap/limit" the color saturation so that they stay "Natural". Not only that but you want to make as few adjustments on your DVDO Edge as possible and avoid adding positive values with the DVDO Edge.

You'll probably be better off using one of the Brilliant modes as the starting point. You can try leaving all the settings neutral, color at 50, brightness at 50, contrast at 100, tint at 0, and calibrating the set using the DVDO Edge controls. Or you could use the settings that I provided and then calibrate from there. Ideally, you want to try and reduce/lower values on the DVDO Edge - not increase them. Example: Color on the set is at 50 and on the DVDO Edge you need to increase the value to saturate the color. In this case you want to increase the HDTV color setting and try to keep the DVDO Edge as close as to the neutral setting as possible or lower. If you increase values on the DVDO edge you might push colors/brightness/tint/hue/etc. too far which will push or blow out colors. Where as if you reduce the values you just limit the lower/gray end of the spectrum which isn't that big of a deal. But it's a cat and mouse game, since the HDTV set might push colors too much or push the wrong colors too much using it's setting.

You can also try the bright mode. I found that if you use a contrast of 80, brightness of 57, Tint of 4-8, and color of 36-44 that you can get a near identical image as the Brilliant mode but without the color casting. That makes for a sharper and poppy image but in dark scenes gives more black crush (loss of detail in the darker areas).

Lucid69,

I used your settings for warm/brilliant while watching some football and it looked really nice after putting the tint number in positive (turned the grass from brown to green).

Thanks for the recommendations, I'll give them a few more days and let you know what I think.

I don't recommend using the audio out from HDTV sets. While it's a nice feature I have no idea what the heck it's doing to the signal. Not to mention, issues you have mentioned with pass through, etc..

I recommend getting a new receiver that handles your needs. Alternatively you could get the DVDO Edge since it acts as a automatic HDMI switcher with multiple inputs but with only one output to the HDTV or receiver. Just imagine, as you turn on a device the DVDO Edge automatically switches to the port the device is on. No more multi-remotes or programming a universal remote. Just turn on and go.

i just feel that the yellow color in general is off on the brilliant preset. which is odd considering one of the colors in the "6 color processor" IS yellow. in brightness and natural its fine. i find the tint at 16 with the color at 40 in brilliant helps correct it.

When you guys are playing PS3's whats your game mode settings? Or are you even changing the modes when gaming? Also i see everyone seems to be going to "Brilliant" mode or Bright mode, thought everyone called that torch mode and you will burn the lamp quicker? Please explain as i would like the best picture possible without burning my t.v./bulb up faster. Thanks

apparently these tv's run at a constant 156watts and lucid is confident that no matter what setting you watch the tv on..it wont influence luminance blow out because unlike the higher end models of these TV's the 6 series does not have a dual mode lamp

I would get one, but seeing as the price is 2/3's the cost of this TV, i think i will pass for now.. a bit overpriced in my book (for what it does).

As it is, a new receiver would mean a whole new speaker system (again, not a bad idea, but costly), since the receiver is built in (ok, i am using an old Logitech z5500, that has worked quite well for what it is.. optical and coax in was quite nice.).

The Bright mode has issues too - if you dial in the red then the yellow is off....but it you dial in the yellow then the red is off. I find that going beyond 12 on the Tint gives more of a yellow/greenish look on faces that have lots of color saturation, especially if they have darker skin. Somewhere between 4-12 is where I find the colors to look natural but you need to adjust per show/movie/etc..

I'm going to try and use my PC tonight to see if I can dial it in better since I'm tired of having to customize the settings per show or live with under saturated colors because the red looks nucular. The natural mode would be fine if only the reds had the full color range - full red looks more like pink.

Right now I'm using the Brilliant mode with the following settings - Tint 9, Color 36-44 (depending on content), Brightness 53, Contrast 90, and Color Temp of High. I find that the Low color temp makes some video overly warm in color. And by reducing the contrast on the High setting it takes away some of the blue/coolness in the picture to make it more neutral in color temp.

Just to confirm this further, the absolute black level is the same for all picture modes. If the bulb was brighter in any other mode then this wouldn't be the case. The reason why certain modes look brighter than others is that the video processor is amplifying part of the color spectrum - but not at the lower levels, otherwise it would also increase black. I'm not sure but the DLP mirrors might come into play as well - angle less to reflect more of the constant light that the light engine generates. Keep in mind that the 838 series have a iris on the lens to control the light levels for dark scenes. This wouldn't be needed if the bulb dynamically changed it's wattage/light output.

Anyone that wishes to test this just needs to put in a 4:3 DVD or watch a 4:3 show. Then freeze the image using the remote. Then go into the settings and adjust the brightness. Once you see the side bars change from black to a very dark gray then you know where absolute black is. Retest this for each picture mode/color temp and you'll see that the brightness values are the same for each mode. Assuming you're using the same contrast settings for each mode as well.

I ended up purchasing an very inexpensive(under $30) HDMI splitter for my bluray player.One HDMI out from the player ,with 2 in .One goes to the 3D adapter for my Mits 73638,the other to my receiver.

Full HD audio codexs for my receiver ,and video for my Mits,that it's 3d adaptor is happy with.

Care to share which splitter you bought, and where from?

On-line reviews of most of the splitters I have read about suggest many of the inexpensive ones don't work well with 3D

Lucid Ive tried your original settings for Brilliant with the only except ...color temp High...and yellow and orange seem to be correct..haven't fully tested it but so far so good

settings are

Brilliant
color - (40)
tint - (-11)
color temp - (high)

Sure,no problem.I purchased the "Cables Unlimited" 1 x 2 splitter/amp from Frys electronics.

That ,along with a nonpowered cheap switch ,has me watching 3D from "D" and bluray.

P.S.
Well, a glitch has arisen.Last night my bluray worked great on the splitter.Tested 3D and DTS master audio.Tonight,after typing the above,it works hap hazardly(is that a word?).Works for a couple of minutes ,then nothing works,hmm.Houston,i think we have a problem.

This seems absolutely crazy to me. I cannot remember a single device I have purchased in the past 15 years that does not at least have discrete power codes. It also seems odd that the C9 series supported discrete codes last year and this year they just removed them. Has anyone had any luck figuring these out? The 638 remote definitely has a way to go into "direct mode", so it really has me hopeful that I will eventually figure this out.

I finally figured out the best values/settings for my 65C10. Please note the various picture modes and when to use them.

Brilliant - (TV Mode) Use for normal TV and 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 42 (46 is max NTSC color reference)
Tint: 6
Sharpness: 68
Video Noise: Medium (Off for 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies)
Color Temperature: High

Bright - (Sports Mode) Use for sports
Brightness: 42 (42 is NTSC black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 90
Color: 38 (Color level might need to be adjusted +/-2 ticks depending on the sporting event)
Tint: -6 (Tint level might need to be adjust depending on the sporting event)
Sharpness: 0
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

Natural - (Film Mode) Use for DVD/Blu-ray movies (non-3D animated)
Brightness: 51 (51 is Film black reference, going higher will cause color push)
Contrast: 83 (Can use 80 to render deeper blacks or use 85 for a brighter picture)
Color: 62 (62 is Film color reference, going higher than 70 can cause color push)
Tint: 8
Sharpness: 68
Video Noise: Off
Color Temperature: High

These settings and using them for the correct video content is in my opinion perfect. What ever you do, DO NOT CHANGE the Brightness values given above. This will screw the colors up in a major way. If you must increase it, you shouldn't use more than 2-4 ticks higher but I can't even recommend you do that since it comes at a cost of screwing up the colors/saturation. If you do increase the Brightness then don't exceed 50 and also reduce the Color a bit, probably 2-6 ticks lower (example: Brightness 48 and Color 40 for the Brilliant mode is a good compromise for TV but NOT for 3D animated DVD/Blu-Ray movies). The additional brightness will help for some TV show series but at the cost of color saturation. If dark scenes seem too dark then tough luck, get a 838 series which has a iris to correct the amount of bulb light on a per scene bases or get a plasma set if you want better black levels.

Picking the various picture modes for the content you're going to view is VERY IMPORTANT. Mitsubishi should of labeled the Picture modes differently: Brilliant = TV & 3D animated DVD/Blu-ray movies, Bright = Sports, Natural = DVD/Blu-ray Films (non-3D animated).

You can use the Brilliant mode for DVD/blu-ray film movies but you'll need to lower the color to 38. You also might experience serious red push. This is because TV and Film have different color ranges and absolute black levels. But I think once you try my settings you'll find that movies look better under the Natural (Film) mode. If you really need movies to look like TV then you can push the color as high as you want (above 70 in the Natural mode).

Video Noise and Sharpness are content specific so I leave it up to individual preference for those settings but have given my personal settings as a reference. How much you decide to use is up to you, if any at all.

Someone needs to buy me a beer (or two) for my efforts. :O)

Wow, thanks for all the great information! Is there an easy way to save these different settings for each picture mode so you can quickly jump between them?

It sounds to me like although everyone seems to like the pop and sharpness and bright colors of brilliant, but almost everything else in brilliant is out of whack. Doesn't sound worth it too me.

I tried those setting and watched the Packers vs. Patriots and the Pats gloves were neon pink. Yuck, I will stick with Natural mode, I think words like pop and vibrant colors should stay in the non enthusiast market, colors should be accurate to the original source. The big thing that really bothers me about brilliant mode is no matter how you change the settings it introduces a significant amount of signal noise to the picture that at reference levels is not there,

I am not trying to throw anybody under the bus, but I prefer reference colors regardless of content. Just my $.02.

The settings are retained for each picture mode so you can cycle through them when needed.

Did you use the "Sport" mode (Bright mode) and adjust the Tint up/down along with maybe a 38 for color? The Brilliant mode isn't meant for sports. Also the Natural mode is designed specifically for Film movies, not sports or TV shows. If you want a more neutral picture you can just lower the color to 36 for both Brilliant and Bright modes.

Update,

The splitter I purchased,my still be the answer.I am unsure since my problem last night was,my 3D player deciding a quick death was preferred over a lingering one.

I'll retest this splitter once I receive a new 3D player.

look very good...someone mentioned before that they thought Brilliant increased video noise...THIS IS TRUE because I watched the wrestler in Brilliant and although this movie is intentionally made to look grainy Brilliant intensified the graininess by 100percent....

watching the wrestler now with the natural settings The graininess looks more "natural" like the director intended. colors seem on as well.

do any of you guys know how to prevent the tv from going all green and blue when you put it in 3d mode?....I hooked up my xbox yesterday to it to play call of duty in 3 d and the picture was ridiculous

The reason why the Brilliant mode has more video noise/film grain is because you're pushing the color beyond it's range for the DVD/Blu-ray film. You'll also see nucular reds because of that as well. There are four reasons for adding contrast. 1) To keep all modes at about the same brightness. 2) It deepens the reds to make them more natural. 3) It darkens/smooths out the image a bit but without losing detail and so it's not so grainy in dark scenes. 4) In the Brilliant mode it helps to eliminate the "cool" look/feel of the High Color Temperature.

The one thing I like about the Brilliant and Natural settings is that you can push the color as high or low as you want and the colors don't shift. That shows that you have the set dialed in right. When I used higher Brightness values it threw everything off when I adjusted the color up and made it look different when they were reduced.

The only mode that is variable is the Bright mode for sports/live events. It seems that this mode allows you to dial in the outdoor "yellow" better than the Brilliant mode but the Tint range for that is tighter causing you to make the adjustments for each sports/live event. Also the Bright mode doesn't smooth out the image and makes it more sharp/detailed without any sharpening added. When Sunday hits I'll have more time to play around with the Tint values with different teams to see if there's a compromise Tint value that works for most sports/live events.