2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (638 series) - Page 15

I was able to confirm that the 720p works when directly connected. That being said I am still blaming Directv for the issue. Everyone with D* seems to have this problem with their AVR.

Mitsubishi called yesterday and said my replacement wd73c10 is being delivered tuesday..its replacing a wd65c9...so i have the advanced calibration menu now...i understand i will be losing it...but from what im understanding is there isnt even a way to set the tint on each of the 6 colors? So its just tint up and tint down? And color up and color down?

That is correct. Very simple setup including contrast, bright, color, tint, sharp and only 2 settings for the lamp.

With the settings by Lucid the TV is very respectable looking especially with an HD source and even more so with Blu-ray.

The downfall to me is the lamp settings only high/low. Something in the middle would be what I prefer but it's really not that big of a deal. Just coming from a top line samsung dlp with 5 lamp settings it's quite a change.

What the hell is mitsubishi thinking? They must know somwone buying a 60" tv people are doing it for the size and probably home theatre rooms..thats really dumb..so we have basically the same settings on our 60 plus inch 2010 models...that we had 25 years ago on our tvs? Although the base 2009 models u could do a full calibration...makes zero sence...i hope a firmware update will at least give us each adjustable colors....

Hello All,

I have a couple of questions for you Guru's of knowledge! I currently have a WD-60737, which I am planning on giving to my sister, while I will be picking up a WD-73638. While looking at the specs for both, it appears the 60737 has more features then the new 73638. Am I reading this right, or missing the boat? Is the 60737 a better unit then the 73638, or is the technology advanced in such a way as the features on the 60737 are no longer needed on the 73638 to achieve the same results as the 73638 is a more advanced unit?

So, can someone show me the light? Appreciate the help!

Gunny

The key is in the middle digit of the model number:

First two digits are screen size, last digit is an indication of model year (7 being 2009 models, 8 = 2010). The xx6xx's are the base models, the xx7xx's better equipped, and the xx8xx's have all the bells and whistles. Most notable feature of the xx738s and xx838s is probably the firmware upgrade to handle all known 3D formats without the adapter box. The 638s won't get that, nor will any earlier models.

does anyone know if the DLP link style glasses are rechargeable? like the IR glasses

I just want to clarify things, the C10/638 series don't have 2 settings for the lamp (it's a single watt bulb). Only the 738/838 series have a 2 settings lamp (dual watt bulb) with the higher setting only being used near end of bulb life or on the 82" sets since the lamp wattage is the same for all set sizes 60-82".

There are only 2 settings for color temperature which has nothing to do with the lamp wattage output. And unlike the 738/838 series, the "Low" color temperature setting isn't D65 reference. So on the C10/638 series of sets you have no way to get the color temperature to the D65 reference unless you use a HTPC or possibly a DVDO Edge. But the "High" color temperature is very close to D65 reference but shows a bit of a blue tint on white/light colors during some video scenes/content.

I think Mitsubishi learned from it's mistake by including the exact same video processor in the low end 2009 models of HDTVs. Not only will you lose advanced calibration settings in the C10/638 series but you'll also get a less capable video processor as well. So upscaled video won't look as good as they did on your C9. Probably not what you want to hear but it is what it is.

For those of us that took advantage of the Cyber Friday/Monday sales the C10 series was a tremendous value. And so long as you can upscale all your source material to 1080p before it hits your HDTV then you won't be missing much vs. the higher priced models.

But for you, this will be a downgrade. If possible, I would complain to Mitsubishi and tell them that they're not sending you an equal replacement for the C9 model you had. Instead you should ask for a 738 model to be sent as the replacement since it has the same "core features" of your C9 model, which the C10 does not have.

You're comparing two different series of HDTV. As mentioned by kjroddy, the xx6xx is a lower end (less featured) model vs. the xx7xxx model. But there are differences between the xx737 and xx738 models. Besides additional 3D format support (no need for the 3D adapter on the xx738 models) there are some newer features on the xx738 model vs. the xx737 model - internet streaming/apps + DLP link support (can use DLP Link 3D glasses without a IR adapter).

Since you're going 73" I would recommend that you get the WD-73738 model over the WD-73638/WD-73C10 models. At that size and cost you'll probably want the extra features. Just be sure to haggle/search for prices since you can get the WD-73738 for around $1,400 delivered. Sadly, most just accept online/store prices as is. If there's a local store that has the set on the floor then you can haggle with them. Just be sure to ask for the manager since sales people usually don't have the power to lower the price. You can google on how to haggle with major stores for lower prices. With the lower price you might want to consider the WD-73838 model which can be had for around $1,850 delivered. Btw, the mark up on these sets is HUGE. More so the higher the model you go for. So keep that in mind.

I would also recommend that you check a 73" locally with the kind of video content you'll be watching and at the distance you'll be watching it. I wanted to get a 73" but I'm glad that I went with a 65". Standard or lower quality video would be pretty much unwatchable on the 73" set unless you sit farther away (10+ feet). But if you mostly watch movies and clean HDTV video then the larger the better.

They can be, it's up to the manufacture that makes the glasses. There are also "hacks" out there where you can make existing non-rechargeable 3D glasses use a small rechargeable battery and recharge it using micro-USB. I would go that route vs. paying the premium for a set of glasses that have that feature. But even so, regular batteries can be had for .20-.40 cents each when buying several at a time. From what I've heard they last about 40-70 hours (about 20-35 movies). So the best deal/value is to go the regular battery route. Just buy several at a time so you always have a fresh battery on hand.

OK, I guess the issue is not the AVR and incorrect EDID information, but instead Motorola is intentionally stopping this from working. I just ran across a Logitech Revue support page (http://revue.logitech.com/digitalhom...roubleshooting) that states that several of the Motorola STBs don't work if there is more than 2 downstream HDCP devices. Since I am going from the STB to the AVR to the adapter and then to the TV, the STB might have no chance of working. I am going to contact Comcast and see if there is another option, but I might be out of luck.

I guess another option would be to go with a 65738 instead of the 65638 so the adapter is no longer needed. That seems like an expensive switch in hopes that this will work with the stupid Motorola box. Maybe it is time to give DirecTV a call...

As I suggested in the other thread, try getting hold of another 3da1 and running cablebox-> 3da1 -> TV and using coax/optical audio to the receiver

hi i have a mitsu 60-638 and im having overscan issues and the code menu 2 4 5 7 doesnt work, is there a specific way you have to press it to get into the setup? or does anyone else know how to correct the overscan issue?

As far as I know there's no setting (service menu or otherwise) to correct for overscan. The only way to correct for it is to use a HTPC and/or DVDO Edge. With the HTPC solution all video content has to go through the HTPC before the HDTV which doesn't work if you have external devices. The DVDO Edge on the other hand is auto HDMI switcher and video processor and can do what you're looking for.

What would be the best solution for my predicament? I have three 3D sources (Cable box, PS3 and 360) that I want to hook up to my 73-638, but the adapter only has one input and one output. Help?

You'll need a HDMI switch so you have one output to the HDTV where you can also connect the 3D adapter. Your choices are a A/V receiver that supports "high speed" HDMI switching, DVDO Edge, or a "high speed" HDMI switcher. Just make sure the device supports "high speed" HDMI since standard HDMI could cause problems (not enough bandwidth).

If you don't have a A/V receiver then I would recommend going that route with speakers (if you don't already have them). The DVDO Edge does automatic HDMI switching + very good video processing which is a nice feature - turn on the device and it will auto switch to it (it also has device on order/priority that you can configure). A standalone HDMI switcher will work but for the cost, your money would be better applied to one of the other devices. You can check out monoprice for HDMI switches but I have no experience with any of them.

Do you happen to know how to work the geometry menu in the calibration of the service menu? I screwed something up in there and the lines in the geometry settings are not straight and I do not know what to line the dots up with. and the factory reset does not reset those settings. am I screwed?

If you want to reset the geometry to factory settings then you need to hit menu 4570 and then when you are in the menu hit 5555... I have not tried it, but the manual I downloaded says so. I was messing with the geometry on mine and could not get it adjusted too well. I also want to fix the 2.5% overscan, but may have to pick up the HDMI switcher that is being talked about so much on here.

That code didnt seem to do anything and my lines are still messed up, is there a way to reset everything to factory setting in the calibration menu?

~~~ This message is in reply to Lucid69;19696711 ~~~


First off, Thanks for the time you put in to get us these settings, much appreciated! OK, here is the update and first impressions. The WD-60737 went out the door on Sunday to my sister, a happy camper for sure. My WD-73638 was delivered yesterday and let me say, it is a lot bigger then I thought it would be. When I had my 60737 on the stand there was some extra space on each side that the 60737 did not fill. Not the case with the 73638. It fills the satnd perfectly, like it was designed for this one, but could use the smaller screen sizes as well. So with the stand totally filled, it just makes everything look even bigger! I also like the way the case on the set looks, meaning the glossy panels set against the flats. Very nice case on this unit. I hooked up my new Philips BDP7520/F7 (3D Blu-Ray w/Wi-Fi wireless), put in "WANTED" (Blu-Ray) and WOW, unbelievable! I was impressed with the 60737, but this is just eye popping! I was going to get the 82", but I opted out and I'm glad I did, as it just would have been too big. So the 73638 is the perfect size and does everything I want. To be honest, when I had the 60737, the only settings I used were; Brilliant, Bright, Natural. They all worked for me, so I never messed around with any of the other settings. So, since I never did, I'm not really missing anything. However, I will plug in the settings that "Lucid69" has supplied to see how things shake out.

In a wrap, I'm very happy with the 73638 connected to the Philips BDP7520/F7. A perfect combo! Also, since I "ONLY" watch the standard DVD's (have about 1400 and they are all store bought, none illegal)) and now Blu-Rays (have about 50-75), I don't have to worry about anyother settings. Yeah, I do NOT subscribe to any TV whats so ever. I was a hard thing to kick back in 2006, but I'm glad to have the $$ junkie off my back! Hence another reason why I wanted a nice set, since I only watch movies on disc. So in summary, I'm glad I did what I did and I'm really enjoying my new DLP!

Thanks for all of the replies and PM's. It's nice to have some support when one wanders into the unknown territories of large screen DLP. Thanks Folks!

Gunny

I bought the equipment below from monoprice, I am guessing this will work.


http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

So, I understand how the 960x1080 DMD operating at 120Hz draws two sub-frames to make the full 1920x1080 @ 60Hz. But how does it accomplish 60Hz in 3D? I can only see it happening 2 ways:

* It displays a full 1920x1080 frame recreated from the checkerboard for one eye (say Left) which takes 2 of the 120Hz cycles, then displays a full 1920x1080 frame recreated from the checkerboard for the other (say Right), which also takes 2 of the 120Hz cycles. End result is a 1920x1080 video @ 60Hz, which gives 30fps for the left and 30fps for the right.

* It simply takes the incoming checkerboard formated video, and displays the L/R "subframes" at 960x1080 at 120Hz. That would be about the only way I could see it giving 3D @ 60Hz per eye..... just sacrificing resolution for framerate.

While I'm at it, given that 3D BD is 24fps, (and given I believe that the way the DLP displays the 3D content is by the first bullet point) what sort of pulldown does the set employ to jive the 24fps with the 30fps (for each eye)? Does it use a 2:1:1:1? Anyone have any ideas?!?!

Mike W.

Here is the link that I downloaded the service manual from: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CKaWseYC

On page 25 it starts to tell you about the service menu and geometry settings. This should be a big help in explaining what to do with each dot while adjusting the geometry.

Thanks for the link,that service manual really helped, its still a bit off, but its a lot better than before. Probably going to have to take my time and do a little tweaking to get it just right, but the overscan issue is still there and unfixable.

Your second selection is how it does 3D - 60hz per eye at 960x1080. There is no official documentation as to the pulldown used but since it's display rate is 60hz (same as analog TVs) it's most likely using a 3:2 pulldown which can cause judder on some scenes. The set doesn't refresh fast enough to be able to offer 3:3 or 5:5 pulldown, where a single full frame is shown for 3 or 5 frames when displaying 24p content. Note: You will be using the Blu-ray players 3:2 pulldown (not the HDTVs) unless you have the player set to 24p output. Also, not all Blu-ray players allow you to set for 24p output. Back in the day, people would pay a lot more for a DVD player that did better 3:2 pulldown. Nowadays, it's not so much an issue for Blu-ray players.

If a full frame DLP chip was used then a 5:5 pulldown could be used for 2D content. But it would still be limited to using 3:2 pulldown for 3D content since it would still be 60hz per eye but now at 1920x1080. It's doubtful that the full frame DLP chip will operate faster than 120hz - color wheel, video processor, etc. would all have to run faster to handle a refresh rate faster than 120hz.

Here's a very good write up on 1080p @ 24fps.

High-Def FAQ: What's the Big Deal About 1080p24?

This is what I was looking for. I posted in the other threads regarding Mits replacing my C9 with a C10 due to geometry issues and after looking at everything, it appears to be a downgrade. Just wanted verification on what I was missing.

Going to have a little talk with the Mits rep...

(this is what I posted in the other threads...

I had geometry issues with my 73C9 and finally got it replaced with a C10. Picture is "fine" but now after looking at everything, I am wondering if it was a "fair" trade. In other words, I am thinking the C10 was a step down from the C9.
One thing that irked me right off was that I was connecting my cable box via DVI for video and the corresponding RCA's for sound; the C10 doesn't have this and I have reverted to component. Also, the remote that came with the C10 isn't a universal as was with the C9... not that it matters as I am using a Harmony; what does matter is that it doesn't appear the C10 utilizes discrete input codes so I have to manually switch to the correct input when switching from the cable box to the game systems.
Also, it appears I have lost some functionality as far as what adjustments I can make to the picture. The C9 had an advanced picture selection with various adjustments that the C10 lacks.

Not sure what else is missing or different...but am I off base here? Wouldn't a 738 be more in line as far as "basic" features?)

About to purchase a WD-73C10 online in the next day or two (from Tigerdirect or Dell).

I tried to pricematch locally at Best Buy, American, Sears, and Ultimate Electronics... but the online prices were under their cost and they couldn't do it (plus, they were all selling the 73638, not the 73C10, although they're basically the same TV it seems that there is more markup on the 638.

Anyway, the price difference is $100 less at Dell (but I have to pay tax with them that will drive it up almost to the Tigerdirect price). Soooo, can anyone out there tell me either a good or bad experience from purchasing a Mits HDTV from either of these online retailers (not PC purchases, only DLP big screens please... I've ordered plenty of computers before from Dell and have been happy).

Thanks in advance.

Also, looking at getting the matching stand from Amazon for 4 bills (MB-S73A). Even though it was built for the '09 models, I'm assuming it will work fine for the '10 models?

Got my C9 from Dell. No issues. Shipped out within a day or so. Shipping company called within a couple of days after that to schedule an appointment. He brought the TV inside (still in the box) and left.