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Mitsubishi HC4000 - Page 44

post #1291 of 1524
coderguy - come on over to the darkside and try the JVC. Was hoping that you'd finally end up over here.
Maybe it'll be what your looking for and the quest will be over. :-) - Don
post #1292 of 1524
Yeah, I agree. Give it up already and get a JVC! I love mine. No fatigue and I can watch for hours. Dark scenes are smooth. Getting ready to watch Tron 2 which I was avoiding for the longest time. I can join you in your RBE pain. I guess we are one of the few! Lucky us!
post #1293 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I wasn't too impressed by the RS20, and I don't even know where to buy a JVC that I can safely return it if it has problems?

Well, I wasn't too impressed with rainbow city either. Honestly, I don't really know what's not to like. At the rate you are going, you might as well get a RS40 and call it a day.
post #1294 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I hear you, someone PM'd me some dealers of the JVC, but I don't think given my luck on convergence issues that I should be buying from a private dealer.

If I knew I could return a JVC if it had convergence issues, then I would. I am very sensitive to convergence, I can see the loss in sharpness from depth perception, it may not be obvious on focus resolution, but I can still see it on text focus as well.

Wow - you're screwed. Might be time to increase your pj budget or get a 100" TV.
post #1295 of 1524
Quote:


My problem was NOT that I couldn't get the brightness high enough, it was having enough room to calibrate once the lamp wears in.

With 27ftL??

If the Sanyo was that bright in terms of ftL, and has better supposed contrast than the Mits, but you still found it lacking pop in brightscenes, maybe the gamma is just out of whack out of the box. I'm assuming if you kept it under 1 hour you didn't have time to calibrate it completely? Does it have full gamma tweaking controls like the HC4000 does?
post #1296 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

----Edited Again----

Well this has been fun.

I'm sticking with the Mits or going to the infocus or JVC. I should have bought the Infocus sp8602 when it was briefly on sale, that PJ would be the one for me most likely.
Oh well, coughing up $3.2k for the Infocus is a bit much.

---Edited----
I ran the Sanyo another 30 mins or so. My Sanyo unit just has bad convergence, but I'm returning it permanently cause not going to play the convergence game. The convergence is inconsistent from the left side to the right, some of it might be chromatic abberation, but either way it's ruining SOME of the POP and I am not using lens shift or keystone. It's off 2 pixels on blue at the extreme edges of the image.

If anyone wants honest opinions on what PJ to buy and not "hyped" up stuff, just PM me, I've seen about every PJ there is now (or at least off by a model or two), heck I've practically owned half of them, lol. I was excited about the Sanyo, so you can see I don't have the purchasers justification syndrome most have, I have no loyalty to a projector, I will immediately return it if I see problems.

All in fun though, the Mits hc4000 and Benq w6000 both own and reign supreme under 2k for most, IMHO.

That said, the Sanyo is really good for HTPC and movies and gaming, but not so great for TV. It sort of reminds me of the Sony in some ways, except that it has better shadow detail and really an overall better IRIS (didn't think it was possible, but this IRIS goes farther down and is still invisible and silent). Sony's convergence adjustment reigns supreme over LCD's, fact is on the right side of my image, the z5 is less sharp than the Sony's post-adjusted convergence, the middle of the Z5 is sharper. I got a bad unit, plain and simple.

I'm done with LCD, enjoy...

Sounds like you need two set ups. That is what I do. While I can watch TV and movies on either set up, I pretty much watch TV on the set up with the High Power screen and DC3 DLP and movies in the dedicated room using a 1.2 gain AT screen with a 1080P LCD. Though I will have to admit that everything looks good on the Marantz VP-12S4 and High Power set up.
post #1297 of 1524
I don't mean this in a bad way but you guys remind me of those that are always tweaking their computers trying to squeeze out an extra 200mhz out of their CPU. Spend time after time tweaking and messing around with settings snd never get to simply sit down, enjoy a movie and then carry on with their lives. I say this because I was like that! lol Always messing with overclocking and tweaking in general until I realized I would never be content. Sometimes it is what it is. Just enjoy what you have in front of you and don't sweat the small stuff. By today's standards, VHS looks HORRIBLE, but when VHS was the king of the crop, we ALL enjoyed watching them our 19" Magnavox CRTs. Did it matter that the resolution sucked and many of us were connecting the vcr to the TV via coaxial cable? lol Yet we enjoyed it!

Like I said, not trying to criticize anyone, but nothing is perfect. Just enjoy what you have! :-)
post #1298 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopt View Post

srjune here are some pics not sure how well the colors come across, but thought I'd pass them along, back wall is very dark grey green, note the windows on the side and the door in the back, if watching anything that you care about in the day you have to at least close the window curtains and the door depending on how dark the movie is....notice that for watching tv in the evenings we use the floor lamps and they work fine with the screen on low (3 way bulbs with a poster board top that directs the light down instead of up)







Take note that my screen is grey but a very light grey ( very close to da-lite HCCV, it's a jamestown screen 106" 16:9) if any other light hits the screen then it washes everything out big time, so make sure that no ambient light hits the screen for best picture viewing...

and my light box..couldn't resist



Kids love harry potter hence why that poster is in for now...


Hope that helps maybe a little...

Thanks Bishopt. Nice set up. Yours is not that dark room, but yr photos of the movie screenshots look awesome. Is it the calibration or may be the gray screen ? Guys instead of painting the walls, does these black drapes help the light reflection ?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Velvet-Bla...el-Red/5555770
post #1299 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by srjune1101 View Post

Guys instead of painting the walls, does these black drapes help the light reflection ?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Velvet-Bla...el-Red/5555770

Yes, absolutely!
post #1300 of 1524
Have some pics, did some more tweaking and I think I have the contrast and brightness dialed in pretty close also adjusted the red, which it was pushing...I have also figured out how to dial in DVD's vs blu-rays and it's amazing how well they look...took some screen shots...me and the klids have been watching all of the Star War movies, yeah yeah I know Orginal three and now started watching the prequels...threw up the men in black scene with the jacket this is what got me to finish calibrating it and adjust the red..I need to take another pic after the adjustment...











Hey coder what do you want me to look at in the menu, let me know and I'll take a look.
post #1301 of 1524
About to pull the trigger on an HC4000 package. Need advice for proper mount. Basement has a 7' 7" drop ceiling. Room is 30'L x 13' 8"W. Will be projecting the width not the length. Package will include the projector, an Elite SableFrame 106" white screen, 35' HDMI cable, and the appropriate mount. Any recommendations for this application? Will the projector have to hang down some number of inches below the ceiling tile? I'd like to avoid keystone, if possible. Anyone have this type of setup (coderguy?) and what did you do to mount properly? What mount/plate/downrod? Thanks, everyone.
post #1302 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

BTW, I pretty much decided I am keeping the hc4000. You just can't beat it even if you have RBE sensitivity. It doesn't bother me in that many movies anyways, I can live with it.

Can you guys check your MENU TEXT on the hc4000 for chromatic abberation and let me know. On my unit I have some, about 1 pixel at the top and 1 pixel at the bottom.
Just wondering if I should swap the hc4000 for another unit or if all of them have the CA?
Mine has about 2 pixels worth.

It doesn't affect sharpness THAT much, but I seem to remember the hc3800 I had being a touch sharper.

I'll check tomorrow...are you sure you have the lens completely square to the screen?
post #1303 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Well I projected onto a wall instead and I still saw the same CA.

My screen does have waves in it, that's why I did the wall test...

What I mean is, are you sure you're projecting a totally square image, i.e. all corners 90 degrees? If there's any tilt you'll get something that sounds sort of like what you describe.
post #1304 of 1524
Well since I projected onto a wall in another room, I wouldn't have accidentally created the same exact amount of tilt since I completely moved the projector, see what I mean.

Yet, the CA was near identical, maybe a tiny bit different, but not much.

So yes, I'm sure.
post #1305 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Can I make a suggestion though, get the ones from JC Penney's, you can get them around the same price and they are way better looking.

http://www4.jcpenney.com/jcp/x6.aspx...d=EXTERNAL|xgn

These are real high quality, I own 4 different types of blackout curtains, including the Walmart Eclipse ones, and these ones rule. These are light weight, yet even work better. They actually 100% completely block out the light of a giant window without even needing a blind on the window.

The main difference with the Walmart ones is the Velvet material gets all wrinkly and doesn't look as good, the ones posted above look "softer in the room" because they have a slight pin-stripe pattern, and they are polyester so they wash easier if you ever have to wash them. The ones posted above are my favorite design out of about the 4 types I own.


PS:
Can anyone check the CA on their hc4000, or even the hc3800, just curious if mine is the rule or the exception.

Thanks Coder. Will order these. And good news everyone, i just put in some black blankets/screens on the side walls and the ceiling and the movie quality is awesome. Image is not washed away anymore. I see the pop without adjusting any settings. i love it. Thanksssssssssssssssssssssssssssss everybodyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy. I am so happy.
post #1306 of 1524
Yup, good curtains.
post #1307 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Still no-one has checked the Mits menu for CA, lol... (ok lazy people)

FYI:
Now it's looking like the Sanyo stays and the Mits goes back (yes I'm insane, I know).
The Sanyo was beating the Mits in A/B comparisons and split-screen compares when the Sanyo was in dynamic mode running Harry Potter, regardless of bright or dark scenes.

I will have to live with a bit of color inaccuracy on the lowest IRE's if I want the maximum contrast on the Sanyo, so it's not a PURIST best mode, but the Sanyo's contrast in Dynamic mode is pretty much insane. The inaccuracy only happens at the lowest IRE's to certain things (skin tones are somehow 98% unaffected). I didn't see one single skin-tone that bothered me when watching the Sanyo split screen comparing to the Mits skin tones, even though I knew the Sanyo wasn't tracking perfectly accurate. It is kind of annoying, but what your eyes see in a SPLIT screen also has importance, just as well as what the colorimeter says.

It also doesn't matter if its on bright scenes or dark scenes, or how much I adjust the MITS (even if I blow the Mits shadow detail out), the contrast is much better on the Sanyo when the Sanyo is in dynamic mode. I bet prior to my color corrections, the Sanyo's contrast is over 10,000:1 NATIVE, it looks like it anyways.

I guess another question would be can I calibrate another mode of the Sanyo to get crazily high contrast, but it doesn't look like it. Cine4home defintely knew what they were doing in their contrast measurements. Cinehome was getting around 9,000:1 in a post-corrected color mode in dynamic mode on the Sanyo when Sanyo had lamp-only IRIS engaged. Yes, the Sanyo has dual-IRIS's.

It appears I am getting even higher contrast than 9000:1 when I leave the colors just a bit farther off and calibrate for max contrast, but I need a light meter to confirm, but it's visibly equal to the Sony's contrast in this mode.

Okay Coder, this is gettin' serious. First, put the knife down, and back away from the ledge. Now, slowly, and I mean very slowly.......... unhook the sticks of dynamite from your chest. Relax, and we can all come out of this in one piece........... everybody else, back away! Give him some space!
post #1308 of 1524
I'm just curious if my HC4000 has the same CA as everyone elses, because if it doesn't, then my sharpness comparison between the Sanyo and the Mits isn't 100% valid.
I don't remember my hc3800 having that CA.
post #1309 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I'm just curious if my HC4000 has the same CA as everyone elses, because if it doesn't, then my sharpness comparison between the Sanyo and the Mits isn't 100% valid.
I don't remember my hc3800 having that CA.

This forum is for testing, if someone doesn't test these things like an engineer, then their tests are invalid (sorry but I consider a LOT of the tests and comparisons in this forum invalid). When I compare, I want to find faults in my comparison techniques to get rid of BIAS.

This is a decision that might cost me or others post-TAX $2500 extra if I decided to go with a JVC, it's well worth the scrutiny to me to see if this Sanyo can deliver.

I know most of you just pick a PJ and live with it, and you are lucky you picked the hc4000 which has SO FEW flaws, but us RBE folk are semi-screwed, and the Sanyo is doing it for me finally, so if I can get rid of the dreaded RBE effect and maintain an image that is as POPPY (or 95% as much), then I'll be glad I did my research and got the Sanyo.

That said, I have a few more sharpness tests to do, and I still want a Sanyo with better convergence.

By the time you are done testing, you will be due for a new lamp and start all over again. Ever planning on kicking back and watching a movie? lol
post #1310 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

By the time you are done testing, you will be due for a new lamp and start all over again. Ever planning on kicking back and watching a movie? lol

The Mits contrast barely changes maybe 25% or a bit more when calibrating, the Sanyo is all over the freaking place. It can look like an LCOS projector one minute, and then a washed out LCD from 10 years ago the next while calibrating. And, simply changing brightness/contrast doesn't fix it, once you calibrate too far into one mode, you're screwed.

I've only ran the Sanyo 3 hours on the lamp.
post #1311 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I've only ran the Sanyo 3 hours on the lamp.

Look, I wouldn't test the Sanyo this thoroughly normally, but it's inaccurate color tables make it necessary. The Sanyo is a projector like no-other, you'd have to see and try to calibrate it to see what I mean. I thought the reviewers were just being cry-babies about calibration, but nah, this thing is ridiculous hard because of the LOSS contrast issue as you get accurate.

However, I'm pretty darn close now to satisfying myself finally, after 5 projectors, so why stop now.

This Sanyo has some REAL strengths for this price point, nothing at this price can touch its' NATIVE and dynamic contrast in the dynamic mode, and even a Sanyo off-convergence is still sharper than an Epson will be (we're beating the Epson on multiple fronts here, everything but absolute black levels).

Coder, just funnin' with ya. I also really like the look of DLP, but have eye strain and RBE problems. So it's LCD or LCOS for me too. Good luck in your testing.
post #1312 of 1524
Coder, you live near Richmond, Virginia? I would sure love for you to come home and calibrate my 8350. Seriously bro, no kidding. I was just teasing ya a bit but I agree with you on wanting to calibrate the pj to it's best ability. For real bro, if you live near Richmond, hollar! :-)
post #1313 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERuiz View Post

By the time you are done testing, you will be due for a new lamp and start all over again. Ever planning on kicking back and watching a movie? lol

Agreed.

Coder, when(if?) your search ends for the "holy grail" of projectors, why not come back then with a detailed summary as to why you chose that particular projector?

Don't get me wrong, I can appreciate your enthusiasm ... we're all passionate about our ht, hence are reason for being members of this fine forum.
post #1314 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I would come do it for FREE, but I live in central US.
I wouldn't charge anyone for calibrating, I'm not good enough.
I'm just really good with Sanyo's, becuase I owned one for 6 years and the controls are the same as the z4000.

The Sanyo is an anti-meter calibration, the Epson 8350 isn't as bad in this regard. You can just get an ISF to do it, should be fine.

ISF? Why you gotta mention my momma? LOL What is ISF and does it come sugar free?
post #1315 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by JH_WY View Post

About to pull the trigger on an HC4000 package. Need advice for proper mount. Basement has a 7' 7" drop ceiling. Room is 30'L x 13' 8"W. Will be projecting the width not the length. Package will include the projector, an Elite SableFrame 106" white screen, 35' HDMI cable, and the appropriate mount. Any recommendations for this application? Will the projector have to hang down some number of inches below the ceiling tile? I'd like to avoid keystone, if possible. Anyone have this type of setup (coderguy?) and what did you do to mount properly? What mount/plate/downrod? Thanks, everyone.

If you mount it at the same height as the ceiling tile, the bottom edge of your image will be 18" above the ground, that is a bit to low for me...

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...y17/Image2.jpg
post #1316 of 1524
I have to make sure I'm happy, and to do so, the next and final sharpness test is going to require a magnifying glass (running to walgreens, haha).
post #1317 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I know some of you hate me posting in here, but this is versus the Mits hc4000, and you can't be all tears, because the Mits is holding up to and usually beating everything I am putting up against it so far.

So the Sanyo, well, it beats the Mits a little overall maybe or TIES, but with my RBE, it's going to beat it I think. Not so much for you DLP fans that don't care about black levels though, but it gets really close, and the Sanyo is a bit more well balanced projector (except the ridiculous calibration and color issues). I have a slight BIAS towards the Sanyo due to RBE, but I'm really trying to be careful about the BIAS (hence the magnifying glass).

Hello coderguy,

Koaz from down under, i have been reading your posts on the 3 current separate threads that you have been contributing too.

I take it that if it were not for your extreme RBE that you would be more than happy with or would it be fair to say you would have kept the Mits hc4000 and the search for a projector would be over (for now anyway).

As it is not always about darkest blacks but a good balance of decent respectable blacks and sharpness and contrast especially when we are talking about a projector under $1500USD.

please correct me if i am wrong.

That is the hardest part i suppose as i read somewhere you had a budget and you want to stick to it for whatever reason.

Most of the people here on this forum are mainly honest working class folk trying to do the best for their family while giving them the best education and a comfortable home but also along the way enjoy life as well.

We are not all blessed with huge wages and can afford to drop $3000USD plus on projectors like some others (same applies to me in Australia) the Mits hc4000 is about $2300AUD street price.
I also still have to factor in that i have to buy a projector screen and projector mount and 10 metre HDMI cable.

So that makes it even harder for me thus me reading and re-reading your comments to make sure i understand what your thoughts and other peoples are for blacks, sharpness and contrast.

I have read about 4 or 5 Mits hc4000 reviews as well as Art's review, also Art’s you-tube clip on the Mits hc4000 which was rather good.

In the end they all the reviews said about the same thing one way or the other, that the Mits hc4000 has not go the darkest blacks but more than acceptable, sharpness was very very good and also contrast.
This is from a projector with no DI and under $1500 USD.

What am i looking for, well a projector that has more than decent blacks, i want and like a sharp picture sand good contrast also a projector that can make an average dvd or blu-ray look good on the screen, and i am not looking for perfection as that these days just does not exist.

I will be going to the local projector showroom which is very rare to find in Melbourne that has the Mits HC4000 , HC3900 and HC3200 , Sanyo Z4000 , Benq W1000+ and W6000 , JVC DLA-HD250 and Infocus SP8600.
Then i can see for myself do i need to spend and extra $1000 or so or can i live with the picture and save myself $1000 or so.

I also asked a couple of questions on page 39. Still would be interesting to know what FL would i expect the Mits hc400 to produce ?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...278360&page=39

Also i would like to say a big thank you for your contributions as well you have made it very easy (after re-reading everything you have written a couple of times) to put the Mits on my short list.
post #1318 of 1524
From that list the Mits hc4000 is the safest bet. The contrast is the Mits is not so much worse in dark scenes as to bother me, personally I still prefer the POP of DLP overall, and LCOS too if you get a sharp enough unit.
post #1319 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by KOAZ View Post


I will be going to the local projector showroom which is very rare to find in Melbourne that has the Mits HC4000 , HC3900 and HC3200 , Sanyo Z4000 , Benq W1000+ and W6000 , JVC DLA-HD250 and Infocus SP8600.
Then i can see for myself do i need to spend and extra $1000 or so or can i live with the picture and save myself $1000 or so.

I also asked a couple of questions on page 39. Still would be interesting to know what FL would i expect the Mits hc400 to produce ?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...278360&page=39

Also i would like to say a big thank you for your contributions as well you have made it very easy (after re-reading everything you have written a couple of times) to put the Mits on my short list.

So my meter i1 LT is not good for taking FL readings, however Backlash on a few pages back was getting around 13FL on a 106" Da-lite HCCV screen 1.1 Gain...all I know is that for a 106" screen it is plenty bright and that is in low lamp mode..from everything that I have read projector central FL numbers should be in the ballpark....In best mode I think there are only a couple of projectors that can beat it, Benq W6000, and the Infocus SP8600. So of those projectors, I have never seen the JVC but lots of folks speak highly of them, i would go in this order (in my house I have had the benq6000 and the mits): Low to High ranking

1. Mits hc4000
2. Benq W6000 (if the Iris noise doesnt bother you, it did for me and is why I went with the mits)
3. Infocus sp8600
3. JVC HD250

So I think the Infocus and the JVC are probably close in performance, I'm a DLP guy so it would come down to the unit and how sharp the JVC was for the one I was looking at as far as convergence go...unseen I would probably have to go with the Infocus if I had more money to spare

As always the Mits being your best bang for your buck, as always my .02
post #1320 of 1524
That's 106" wide too. Would be 60ish tall but it's cih
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