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Mitsubishi HC4000 - Page 49

post #1441 of 1524
Sometimes I still seem to see a randomly flatter image (lack of depth) from LCD compared to DLP, but I'm not sure if I'm really seeing what I think I am.
post #1442 of 1524
For all the experts here, i have this Mits Pj and i am projecting it to a wall painted with an Expert suggested White paint. I have painted flat black on the reflective surfaces around the screen. My problem here is i am happy with Bluray movies. But regular 1080i local broadcasting or HTPC uses are not sharp or have pop. I have a Lg backlit 55" Led tv upstairs and the quality of the content i watch on the 120" Pj screen is not even 50% close to the LED tv. This might not be a fair comparision. But i want atleast a 70% video quality as my LED. I had the same problem when i bought a Panasonic plasma before my Led tv purchase. The panasonic had good black levels but it was too dim for me. So i returned it and got the Led tv. I initially thought it might be the screen(wall). I got some Screen samples from Jamestown and Elite screen makers and they just sink into my painted walls when i compare them together. Those screen materials showed differences only on brighter-white light. But otherwise they were almost the same in color and black level wise. Is this a normal PJ experience ? Or all yr contents have the great video quality and the POP.

I havent calibrated. I tried tweaking a lot of settings. But nothing made any greater difference. My settings are

Gamma: Video
Color temp: warm(i like cool on games etc)
Brilliant colorn ( it gets dimmer if i turn this off
The rest or factory default settings.

Please advice.
post #1443 of 1524
Blowing a cable signal up to 120" is probably the issue, dependant on the quality of the signal. Make sure your Cable or Sat box is outputting a NON-UPCONVERTED signal, but if you are really getting 1080i, then sounds like already is set that way (but make sure). Also, are you sure the channels are actually coming in HD and your box isn't faking it?
Lastly check the connections from the cable box to the projector, and the cable box to the wall, etc... As a last resort, you can try callng the cable company and telling them the signal isn't that clear.

With my cable, some channels and shows are bad (like the provider is skimping on throughput at times), whereas some are good. The premium channels (HBO, etc...) often come in clearer for me than other channels. Still my cable is very inconsistent if that gives you an idea of what to expect, but at times my cable does provide a NEAR-BLU RAY experience, but it's rare. Most commmon thing I get is macro-blocking (those boxy pixely things) sometimes when I see fast movement from my cable compression.

The Mits is about the sharpest projector there is. I thought I had CA on my unit, but turned out it didn't. It is almost as sharp as an LCD monitor.

When you say regular 1080i broadcasting, I'm assuming you mean from a cable signal or satellite still and not from an external tuner.
post #1444 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post
Wow. Don't let reality interfere with your world. It is pretty common knowledge most most of the informed posters that the cheap 720P DLP projectors do very well for 3D viewing. Probably the cheapest projector that is considered one of the best is the Acer H5360. There is a long thread about this projector that has been around since November of 09. So to act like most on here just discovered this in the last 6 months is pretty stupid.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1193088
Don't let emotions cloud your logic, as we agree here.
What I'm talking about is the class distinctions between the projector forums. The higher the projector price, the more "class" distinction there is. For example in America we do not have classes of people, like they do in England. Or it's like cars used to be a status symbol.
The way I view it is I could have purchased a fantastic $80K projector last year, but now it's useless, because I now gotta have 3D.
Or stated from another perspective, when you interact with other here and reach agreement, you may think the reasoning is valid. This is another fallacy as many people are open to being talked into making a purchase. This is why I'm against advertising and salespeople as it turns minds to mush.
post #1445 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by srjune1101 View Post
For all the experts here, i have this Mits Pj and i am projecting it to a wall painted with an Expert suggested White paint. I have painted flat black on the reflective surfaces around the screen. My problem here is i am happy with Bluray movies. But regular 1080i local broadcasting or HTPC uses are not sharp or have pop. I have a Lg backlit 55" Led tv upstairs and the quality of the content i watch on the 120" Pj screen is not even 50% close to the LED tv.
How many screen widths (not diagonal) do you sit back from your 120" screen?

And how many screen widths from the 55" LED?

The reason will probably lie within this answer.
post #1446 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman

How many screen widths (not diagonal) do you sit back from your 120" screen?

And how many screen widths from the 55" LED?

The reason will probably lie within this answer.
Yu mean the distance from the screen ? Upstairs i sit about 10-12 ft. In the basement i sit right under projector which is 14 ft i think.
post #1447 of 1524
Last I heard, Uverse uses H.264 MPEG4 (notice the 4), and Comcast (assuming Time Warner also) were still using MPEG 2 compression. Not sure if Uverse's actually looks better or not though, never compared the two in same room of course on same display device.

So on a 10' from a 55" compared to 14ft from a 120", the 55" is always going to look tons sharper than the 120" on a cable signal. The MPEG compression algorithm, which is basically just moving JPEG images is going to increase the noticeable "de-sharpening" artificats and pixelation.

One thing you might do is decrease or increase the artificial sharpness on the Mits to fine tune the amount of image noise in the image on each show. That helps me some when I do it, like on noisier content sometimes I crank sharpness down to -1 or even -2, but only if it is particularly noisey.

On another note: (for others that I know don't care)
I had a friend over and trained him how to SEE RAINBOWS on the MITS
Now he sees them too, haha. So now I found another person that can see them, but only after I told him on dark scenes to move your eyes back and forth across the screen.
I can however see them without moving my eyes, but even he was slightly bothered after I pointed it out, and before that he never cared or mentioned it.
post #1448 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

On another note: (for others that I know don't care)
I had a friend over and trained him how to SEE RAINBOWS on the MITS
Now he sees them too, haha. So now I found another person that can see them, but only after I told him on dark scenes to move your eyes back and forth across the screen.
I can however see them without moving my eyes, but even he was slightly bothered after I pointed it out, and before that he never cared or mentioned it.

Why would you do this to your so called "friend" and find it amusing?
post #1449 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by srjune1101 View Post

Yu mean the distance from the screen ? Upstairs i sit about 10-12 ft. In the basement i sit right under projector which is 14 ft i think.

You are effectively sitting 2x closer to the 120" screen than the 55" tv (relative to screen size). When watching less than ideal content (i.e. HD cable/sat, dvd, poorly mastered blu rays, etc), the image flaws will show up on the system you sit closest to; the Mits + 120" screen.

14ft from your 120" dia screen is about 1.6x screen widths back. To sit the equivalent distance from your 55" tv you need to sit 6.4ft back.

Right now you sit the equivalent of 3x screen widths back from your 55" tv (compared to 1.6x back from the 120"). You would have to sit 26ft back from the 120" screen to achieve the 3x screen width ratio you sit from your 55" tv.

At 26ft back the Mits would look just as good, if not better than your 55" tv when watching cable/sat.
post #1450 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

On another note: (for others that I know don't care)
I had a friend over and trained him how to SEE RAINBOWS on the MITS
Now he sees them too, haha. So now I found another person that can see them, but only after I told him on dark scenes to move your eyes back and forth across the screen.
I can however see them without moving my eyes, but even he was slightly bothered after I pointed it out, and before that he never cared or mentioned it.

Yeah, it's why I Never ask anyone about it, nor train them. Due to that, I haven't had anyone mention anything strange in the 7+ years I've had a DLP PJ in my house.
post #1451 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubsr1 View Post

Why would you do this to your so called "friend" and find it amusing?

Because RBE misery loves company?
I was just curious, but I personally saw rainbows without training and immediately.

I heard from a couple posters that owned a few DLP's that the Mits has more rainbows than average for a 6-seg/4-speed, not sure if this is true or not. I would think all 6-seg/4-speed would have exactly the same amount of RBE if contrast and brightness were equal between 2 PJ's in a scene. I guess the projector with higher contrast might exhibit slightly more.

I'm guessing the people that stated this had the Mits set brighter than their other PJ.
post #1452 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

You are effectively sitting 2x closer to the 120" screen than the 55" tv (relative to screen size). When watching less than ideal content (i.e. HD cable/sat, dvd, poorly mastered blu rays, etc), the image flaws will show up on the system you sit closest to; the Mits + 120" screen.

14ft from your 120" dia screen is about 1.6x screen widths back. To sit the equivalent distance from your 55" tv you need to sit 6.4ft back.

Right now you sit the equivalent of 3x screen widths back from your 55" tv (compared to 1.6x back from the 120"). You would have to sit 26ft back from the 120" screen to achieve the 3x screen width ratio you sit from your 55" tv.

At 26ft back the Mits would look just as good, if not better than your 55" tv when watching cable/sat.

Another way to look at it is by screen size. A 120" screen is 4.78 times larger than a 55" screen. So you have spread those pixels out that much.
post #1453 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 View Post


Another way to look at it is by screen size. A 120" screen is 4.78 times larger than a 55" screen. So you have spread those pixels out that much.

Thanks Mjg, coder , fleaman. Fleaman yu nailed it. I went back 25 ft and the pictures are amazing. But cant sit that far because of speaker mounts. I will get used to it i guess. But thx for enlightening me.
post #1454 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

Or stated from another perspective, when you interact with other here and reach agreement, you may think the reasoning is valid. This is another fallacy as many people are open to being talked into making a purchase. This is why I'm against advertising and salespeople as it turns minds to mush.

Can I ask why many of your posts read like ad copy then?
post #1455 of 1524
Hi, i have little sharpness issue on hc4000. If i focus Pj to perfectly sharp image then image (120 inch) has best sharp only in center area of screen and in corners is slighly fuzzy. This issue is visible mainly on desktop ( texts etc ..) What wrong do you think is it? Objectiv path? poor adjust of costruction? Thx.

... sorry for worse english ....
post #1456 of 1524
Is the screen a pull-down or a fixed, if it is a pull-down screen it's probably from screen waves. Otherwise, make sure the projector is perfectly aligned to the screen and producing a perfect rectangle on all sides (hence you see no trapezoid effect or other side effects)?

It could be a problem with the unit you have, but I doubt it.
post #1457 of 1524
Is your projector at max wide angle?
post #1458 of 1524
Screen= white wall and picture is perfectly rectangle, zoom is set approx in the middle (between wide and tele). I thing about send back unit to RMA service ... for adjust
post #1459 of 1524
49 out of 50 times people think it's the projector, it's the alignment or not a perfectly even wall, or a wave in the screen, or even a screen texture interferring.

Not saying you aren't 1 of the 50, you might be, but I would remove the projector and try projecting onto a different wall at different ZOOM distances and vertical locations to see if it changes the focus points. Every projector LENS pretty much has a sweet spot for positioning (usually closer is better for focus and sharpness, farther throw is better for contrast and black levels).
post #1460 of 1524
Hey guys what are some good ceiling mounts that wont hurt the wallet? any suggestions appreciated!
post #1461 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by sHoGuNe1 View Post

Hey guys what are some good ceiling mounts that wont hurt the wallet? any suggestions appreciated!

There are 3 major mount manufacturers Chief, Premier and Peerless. Peerless only has universal mounts. Both Chief and Premier make mounts that have specific adapter plates for the HC4000/HC3800.

The Premier mount is model number PDS-090. With the Premier mount when you take the projector off the mount you will lose you the tilt adjustment.

The Chief mount is model number RPA245. The Chief mount will retain the adjustments when the projector is taken off the mount.

Both mounts are threaded for 1 ½ pipe and need to be attached to a ceiling plate or pipe flange.

Link below has a photo of the Chief mount.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post20235845

You can find many lower cost universal mounts and cheap custom mounts on EBay and Amazon but you likely have problems adjusting the projector and keeping it adjusted.
post #1462 of 1524
Quote:
Originally Posted by sHoGuNe1 View Post

Hey guys what are some good ceiling mounts that wont hurt the wallet? any suggestions appreciated!

Here's the mount I ended up with:

http://www.amazon.com/Vantage-Point-...5176684&sr=8-4
post #1463 of 1524
I second the Chief. Having bought two crappy mounts for previous projectors, I was blown away by the rock solid mounting of the chief.

Wonderful flexibility, cable routed through the pipe. Lovely fitment and appearance.
post #1464 of 1524
3 Questions for you HC4000 owners..
The Projector calculator is showing an 18.1" drop when ceiling mounted for a 110" screen. My Mount is 4" and Im guessing the center of the lens to the mounting area on the unit is another 2.5". This would make the top of my picture Aprox. 24.6" from the top of my ceiling ( 7' 11" ).

1. Can I angle the unit slightly or is there any way to adjust the unit to gain a few inches back? We want to put in two rows of seats and I need the picture to be as high as possible. I could live with 24" if I have too but I would rather be around 18" if possible as long as I didnt hurt the picture quality.

2. Does the Zoom have any effect on the Picture quality and is there a recommended sweet point that I should try to hit.

3. Gray or White screen ( 16:9 ) ?
This is a dedicated theater ( No outside light ) that I will use for Movies , Sports , some Xbox 360 and a few Tv shows.
I love movies and sports so I need something that is good for both..

Thank you guys in advance..
post #1465 of 1524
Added about screens
----------------------
I favor the Da-Lite HP screens for most rooms and setups when on a budget, but it might hurt perceived contrast if your ceiling is white and you mount the PJ near the ceiling.
I got mine from projectorzone.com. I just think the Da-Lite High Power 2.4 gain screen produces a superior image at it's cost, and it prolongs your lamp life.
Even if ceiling mounted, when you are sitting upright, you will still generally get 1.3 to 1.5 gain out of it or more.
Only if your mounting the PJ real high for larger screens, or if you are sitting far off to the side then will it become a negative gain.
There may be better screens for your particular room, depends. Even some of Da-Lite's other materials are pretty good.
----------------------

Sharpness
I had it 15 feet back from a 106" screen shelf mounted upside down at just over 8 feet high, but closer is probably a better sweet spot for the lens due to sharpness.
However, 1/4 to 1/2 zoom is usually a good compromise for contrast + sharpness, but whatever works in your room is fine.

You can use a little Keystone to make up for mounting offsets, it wont kill the sharpness completely, affects it a tiny bit, but if you use too much keystone it will. It's hard to see sharpness differences for TV or movies on a PROJECTOR that starts out so sharp anyhow, you can see the difference in HTPC, but that's about it.

When I floor mounted it, it was worse and had CA, but that is probably just my setup causing that most likely.

I didn't get a perfectly focused image across the screen from one side to the other, but my screen does have waves in it. The Sanyo z4000 I have does have more uniform focus, but it isn't as sharp in the middle like the Mits is when it's focused, if that makes sense. I think the Mits focused better when it was closer, but don't really remember at this point, neither issue was really enough to bother me.

Keep in mind I had a BUM unit anyways with the checkerboard of death, so my Lens may not have been perfect either (projector may have been beat up by UPS, wouldn't suprise me).

Still it produces a fabulous picture even given all that stuff, better than any other projector I've seen for TV or bright scenes anyhow.
post #1466 of 1524
Now we learn of Mitsubishi thankfully back-stepping in developing an entry-level DLP 3D Ready projector announced for less than 3000 €:
http://translate.google.com/translat...-HC9000-0.html
post #1467 of 1524
The Zeiss projector technology section "Utmost stability" in this document should be required reading:
http://www.vision.zeiss.com/C12567B0...Schorcht_e.pdf

Ok all of the document is extremely worthwhile to open eyes. In other words you won't ever read it here (well there is one exception...)
Or expect the experts here to start paraphrasing it in the coming weeks!

Advances in LCos/SXRD professional projection technology gone haywire:
http://www.avrev.com/home-theater-ne...xperience.html
post #1468 of 1524
That both link went bad indicates funny stuff occurring
post #1469 of 1524
Has anyone using a 2.35 setup tried to put a cap over their lens that has a properly placed 2.35 cutout? I'd like to totally eliminate the overspray above and below my screen.
post #1470 of 1524
Doing it with a lens cap is too inconvenient and hard to align I would think.
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