Mitsubishi HC4000 - Page 50

I had a Optoma H30 PJ which was native 4:3 and it came with a 16:9 cutout lens cover.

Didn't work that well. The borders were fuzzy on-screen, not sharp/defined.

If one was to make a 2.35 version, I would suggest to cut it out a little larger than 2.35 so that you don't get fuzzy fringing at the 2.35 boarders. Then, it might just fade into the screens black masking (assuming you have a 2.35 screen).

It would be a pickle to align w/o mucking the focus, but if you're looking for a permanent solution (as opposed to taking it on/off for 2.35 movies only), it might work so-so.

We purchased an HC4000 for our newly finished basement, we actually bought it a bit before we were done, got it late February, installed in early April, now after using it for just over a month, maybe a total of 10-15 times using it, it quit working on us.
We can turn the unit on, two solid green lights, but nothing else happens. No fan, no noise, no light, etc. We can hear that there is a signal through our receiver. Once we turn it on, we aren't able to turn it back off without unplugging it.
Any idea what this might be? We are of course about 10 days beyond our 90 day warrantee since we purchased before we started using...

You'll probably have to call Mits CS, but before that you can>>
> Unplug the AC pwr cord. Open the lamp cover, take out the lamp, put it back in (this 're-seats' the lamp).
> Plug the AC cord back in, but don't turn on yet. What do the pwr and status LED's show? Normally the pwr LED should be steady red and the status should not be lit (any color).
> Then try power on. If it's the same situation as before (both LEDs are steady green), but no power up, you'll need to call Mits CS

BTW, if you haven't already checked, pg 40-44 is the trouble shooting section of the mnl, showing the status/pwr led modes and what they mean.

yeah, we tried to reset the lamp, no luck there....Mit CS is sending us a new lamp, but would a bad lamp cause it to do nothing? No fan, etc, nothing? Hopefully is as simple as a new lamp, but worried we got a lemon?

Dunno. Guess you'll find out when you get the new lamp. Though usually a bad lamp will trigger the status led's as mentioned in the manual, so it's odd if it is the lamp. But maybe Mits CS knows something we don't.

worked just fine for our first month and a half, loved it, but then it worked on Friday night, went to use it on Sunday and nothing...

mits come with a 2 year warranty unless I am missing something, they have a good support structure which I have used and will usually make things right....in fact the 2 year warranty include ERP, which I think is their expedited replacement program....let us know how it goes...

Yeah, I missed that part of his post.

2 years (HC4000 hasn't even been out for 1 year)
1 year or 500hrs on the lamp

And there used to be a 30 day DOA policy (at least with the HC3800). If it dies within 30 days, they'll send you out a 'NEW' unit (vs. a refurb) to swap. After 30 days it's swapped with a refurb or you can elect to have your own unit repaired (if you don't mind waiting). Again, dunno if Mits still has this 30 DOA policy.

Never heard of a '90 day' warranty, unless you're talking about a 3rd party offering (dealer, vender, etc.).

Got my ceiling mount today.

http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm

Instructions advise mounting to ceiling stud. Any suggestions if there isn't a stud in the area that I need to mount the pj? I was thinking of getting a 8" by 8" piece of 2X6 and putting it up in the attic area so I have something other than just drywall to mount it to.

Hey guys I currently have a HC3800 which I love. I am wondering if anyone who has seen the 3800 and the 4000 would it be worth the upgrade to sell the 3800 and pay say roughly $400 to $500 to upgrade? Thanks!

Hmm, that's a tough one, the answer is a big maybe, but probably not that much...

Can any body pm me where to get a good deal on the Hc4000? I'm buying one soon and need to find a website with discount. Thanks!

I have the same problem with drop ceilings. The simple solution is to attach some 2x8 or 2x10 between two trusses in your attic flush with the drywall. I did this for fluorescent lights as well. Just apply some drywall glue to the board and let it set for a bit before screwing it to the trusses, and then hang your mount. Sturdy enough to hang a ceiling fan then

We got ours in a bundle through Costco online, pretty good deal, projector, receiver, and ceiling mount all together for under $1600. The $100 mail in screen stunk, but otherwise was pretty good deal.
That also explains the 90 days, that was the Costco return policy.

As must read for everyone in this forum:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/home...80p_review.htm

Quote:
"Best HD Picture

Laying everything else aside, which projector has the best high-definition image available? The Mitsubishi HC4000 comes out on top thanks to its low noise, spot-on color, and excellent contrast. Videophiles will love its smooth, film-like picture. In a very close second place is the BenQ W1200, which is much brighter than the HC4000, but not quite as refined in ultimate picture quality. It has a bright, vibrant, dynamic image that will appeal to many, especially those whose viewing rooms have some ambient light. The Epson Home Cinema 8350 rounds out the top three, which picture quality closely rivaling the HC4000 and W1200. These three projectors represent an elite group among the eight under review, offering image quality a cut above the others. They represent the best of the best as far as HD picture quality is concerned under $1500. The Optoma HD20, which is likewise a great performer, is the best option for those trying to keep their budget under $1000.

1) Mitsubishi HC4000
2) BenQ W1200
3) Epson Home Cinema 8350
4) Optoma HD20
5) Vivitek H1081
6) BenQ W1100
7) Viewsonic Pro8200
8) Acer H7531D"

I don't listen much to the self professed experts here, as its just regurgitated information (instead I like integrity and original sources).
Well getting hungry, time for lunch. Yummy!

Wow thats not a bad deal, what didn't you like about the screen?

Hey all,

Received my HC4000 a while back and finally have it all set up. I use a PS3 for blu-ray viewing/gaming and run the PS3 through an Onkyo HT-S9300 and output to the HC4000, all via HDMI cables. While connected and displaying the PS3 menu screen or playing a game, the projector displays red, flickering dots all over the place. They are most noticeable against black backgrounds and less so against brighter areas on the screen, but they are present throughout. However, when I fire up a blu-ray movie all traces of the red fuzzies disappears. I isolated my projector to it's own power supply (actually tried two different ones - an APC ES BE750G 750VA 120V UPS and a Belkin Conserve Smart 1080 J power strip) neither of which made any difference. I don't have another HDMI cable long enough to try swapping out from the receiver/projector without doing lots of moving around of the attached components, but would the HDMI cable be the problem if I get perfect picture when displaying blu-ray movies? Or is this a problem with the HC4000? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

You might try setting the cable length, instructions in post below.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...h#post20197294

Ive been going back and forth between a few projectors for a while, originally set on the epson 8350. But after reading some posts and reviews, Ive changed my mind.

The room I want to put it in isnt a dedicated HT. and the wall opposite of where the screen is 12 1/2 ft away. The celing is 8ft 8 inches high.

Light isnt really a concern to me since I only usually watch movies at night, but even so, with shades and curtains its not really an issue.

So would this work with the HC4000? Just wanted to make sure since Ive read it has limited placement being a dlp.

Use the Mits projection calculator> http://www.mitsubishielectric.com/bu...s/prjcalc.html

I was playing with that, i was unsure about the throw distance, I would just take 12ft 6 inches and subtract the length of the projector right? plus maybe 2 inches for space? because its from the screen to the lens.

Depends on what screen size you want. That should get you into the 100" diagonal range

As you can see in the diagram of that calculator, it's from the lens to the screen surface. Remember that there is a zoom adjustment, so as long as you don't go outside of the PJ throw distance (for your given screen size), you can use the zoom for the final fine adjustment.

I myself wouldn't base my PJ mounting distance at the Max or Min of the throw range (for a given screen size) as there are tolerance variances that might not give you the exact full range. Just pick a screen size or throw range that is a little within the max or min. range, then you use the zoom to fine adjust.

alright, so then im guessing from lens to the screen would be 11ft 6inches roughly, with the zoom at 1.49 im able to get a 100" screen. That would be ok to do, or zoom isnt used like that?

Sounds fine. The Only problem you may have is the relationship between the seating distance to your screen and the height of the image. Some people here base it on screen width, but I got headaches at close distances because of the height of the image. We naturally see wider than we do taller.

That said, a seating distance closer than 2.9 x the Image Height (using same units) is getting into the limited viewing time range. (imho) 45" high screen = 11' back for my head while sitting

Just because you can throw 100" inches doesn't mean it will be what you want. Big is certainly nice, but I like knowing that I can play xbox or watch hours of movies and be perfectly comfortable. I'd say get it, and play with image size and height location on the wall a bit before you buy a screen. Height is really important for neck strain.

Enjoy!



Edit: Keeping in mind the addition of cabling to the depth, I measure 13" exactly from the curve of the cables to the lens.

At a more conservative 1.35x zoom (leave room for adjustments), you can throw a picture 51" tall (105" diagonal 16:9) but using my seating distance calculation you'd want to be 12'4" back. At exactly 12' back though, which is easily doable with zero-clearance recliners, you can throw a 100" diagonal picture. 20ftL too!, high contrast screen anyone?

My hc4000 has arrived and I have it installed on a Monoprice mount....per the lame instructions that came with the mount, it can tilt the projector 15 degrees up or down, to move you picture up or down. Anyone know the trick to doing this with the Monoprice....because the instructions really do not provide this...

OK...I just answered my own question...the model # is MRB-1. There is 15 degrees of tilt 'built in' to the metal plate that attaches to the bottom plastic piece with 2 set screws (plastic piece snaps in bottom on tube and 2 set screws are tightened). I cannot see how you can get the tilt to where you want it by hand without taking bottom plate off tube, disconnecting PJ, and spinning plastic piece on plate until you get the tilt where you want it. (and then connecting back to PJ, and then tube on ceiling). Hope this makes sense, because I m sure someone else will have this Q....

You'll probably get a faster answer from Monoprice. They have an online tech chat thing that's quick/instant (though they maybe closed now?).

Monoprice may not have top of the line products, but they make up for it with their excellent CS

I contacted them, but eventually figured it out on my own. Honestly, the inexpensive price of this mount is....well cheap because of a pretty poor design. I am spending several hours to get my PJ aligned when it should only take minutes - if I had a better mount. I have bought a bunch of other stuff from Monprice, but this mount is weak at best in terms of flexibility.

I bought a Monoprice mount for cheap and it was substandard. Flimsy - would not lock in at the right setting. So I bought a solid aluminum one from Amaz o n for $45. It works great. Search this thread for Monoprice.