The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread - Page 186

I've heard of Art's calibration settings for the 8350, which I tried. They can be found here: http://www.projectorreviews.com/epso...alibration.php However, when using this in cinema mode the colors look very bland and weak to me. Do others see the colors as weak and perhaps too saturated or is it just my projector?

Using someone's calibrations settings is a little bit weird - unless you have the exact same screen and lighting conditions, it's going to be a totally different result. It may be a decent starting point... but...

Seconded, the calibration needs to be tailored to the context.

Looking at replacing an Optoma HD70 with the Epson. My current ceiling mount is about 14.5 feet from wall and projects approx 100 inches across.

Can anyone tell me if I'll have any problem if I use the same mounting? I understand I'll need different mounting hardware but I want to be able to use the same holes in the studs, etc. Will I be able to get it to fill out the screen I have painted & trimmed on the wall at same distance?

Thnx

Yes. You'll be somewhere in the middle of the projector's zoom range.

http://www.epson.com/alf_upload/land...ce-calculator/

Thank you!

I have an NPL Mount now and have had good luck with it. I am looking at this model for Epson
http://www.mountdirect.com/Projector...ries_p/npl.htm

My current projector doesn't have an extension rod. Based on this calculator I'm trying to figure if I should have one?

Use the nice Calculator over at Epson.com.

While the Optima DLP used electronic Keystoning, the Epson uses mechanical Lens-Shift. I've found the Epson 8350 to be more forgiving as to placement than the Optima. It seems to be the tech. used (DLP vs 3LCD).

I totally agree; spring for Disney's WOW calibration BD and you'll never look back.

Thanks! I'll certainly buy this and give it a try.

Thanks! Much appriciated.

Thanks, I will check this out!

Which disc do you believe is better for calibrating the 8350? The Disney WOW or the spears and Munsil? Why?

Why not download these for free? Plenty of patterns to keep you busy.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post12373254

Yes, it was the nVidia card and/or nVidia drivers causing the "No Signal" at amp (after AVR power-cycle). The new dedicated ATI-AMD 5670 works great and similar to how the on-board ATI 3200 works. The ATI-AMD cards/drivers are constantly monitoring the presence of a monitor, and react as needed (and keeps Windows informed).

IMO, the Disney WOW disk is superior to the Spears and Munsil disc in terms of consumer friendliness. The test patterns are all set up just right and there are detailed explanations on what your adjusting and why. There are separate levels for the novice or the professional with calibration tools on hand. Both audio and video are addressed in order to reach their full potential.

I realize some may find the disc somewhat expensive, but it's ease of use makes it worth the money in the long run, trust me.





That's just it, some of us rather stay busy by enjoying movies instead of watching endless test patterns. I've yet to see any test pattern that's capable of rooting out speaker vibrations or helping to adjust individual speaker levels.

He was responding to a post asking about a calibration disc specifically in regards to the 8350. Last I checked, the 8350 did not have any speakers for which you could adjust the levels.

I know a fair amount of you have sent units back to epson under warranty. Could some of you expand on your experiences?
I'm wondering if you have any trouble with the warranty if you're not the original purchaser? like if it was a gift or anything like that?
have any of you had issues where epson can't identify the problem you complained about after you send it in? it says in the manual you'll have to pay for all costs incurred if thats the case.

any other general experiences or comments would be appreciated

Anybody else getting periodic video drops (No Signal displayed) followed by what appears to be an HDMI renegotiation?

yes, I swapped an hdmi cord in my setup and haven't seen the problem since. It is entirely possible I have the same problem as you and the cord is a mere coincidence. It was an intermittent issue when I experienced it before, it was hard to duplicate with any regularity. No obvious link to a resolution change, source change, particular input etc. etc.

Sounds like signal drop out from bad cabling. I would do what mcnizzel did and change the HDMI cable, preferably to a thicker gauge.

No, and I'm using a 45ft HDMI cable ... but it is 22awg (from MonoPrice).

How long is your run and what kind of HDMI cable are you currently using?

Same monoprice cable only 75ft. Have it driven off a monoprice disti amp connected to DTV HR24-100. Have tried two different disti amps and have also used this run for a TV previously without problem. In case you're curious, I ran an RG6 to my receiver in this room for digital coax sound when I changed to the projector. HDMI cable goes from disti amp direct to PJ direct.

Anyone know if Frys are still doing the $899 price on this? Is it instore only?

Fry's in-store is back to $1299. I was able to grab a rain check for the $899 last week, but now they are mysteriously out of stock. I called this afternoon and was told there were two on hand, though when I got there 20 min later they insisted it was 'impossible' anyone would tell me there were any in stock. I'm skeptical I'll be able to pick one up before the 30 day raincheck expires.

Anyone know the feasibility of putting two amps on the same run?

Couldn't you just find a Best Buy or even a Sears nearby to price match like I did?

Yes, I've tried both inputs.

Funny about the question on two disti amps. I broke down and ordered another HDMI capable receiver so I'll now be reworking the wiring and may have to try amp-amp at this house as well. I really need to get another input setup so I can test out thoroughly for the video drop before my exchange window at Fry's closes. Unfortunately, I'm getting convinced it's the PJ I found my stand alone ATSC tuner (things really get hidden when you move) and I'll get that hooked up before tonight's Rangers game.

For the other poster, I've done this before at my previous house without issue BUT you need to be careful on over-amplification and all the other issues you have just like when you begin to daisy chain any other devices like when running RG6 for antenna! When I did it before, I had a 50ft run between amps (Monoprice CL2 22g). The Disti Amps were Monoprice HS-104. The specs say this is AOK. I think their math is wrong however on the number of HDMI signals at full deployment (3+3+4=10)

Supports high-resolution video - HDTV resolution of 480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p (1920x1080); VGA, SVGA, SXGA, UXGA (1600x1200), WUXGA (1920x1200)
Cascade distance: Source to Device -1.8m,

Device to Device-15m,Device to Display-20m
Supports 12-bit Deep Color for HDMI formats
Cascadable to 3 levels - provides up to 8 HDMI signals.
Long distance transmission - 20 m (24 AWG HDMI standard cable) and 15 m (28AWG HDMI standard cable)
DDC compatible
HDMI 1.3b compliant
HDCP 1.1 compliant
Signaling rates up to 2.25Gbits in support of 1080p display
All-metal casing
LED indication of display devices
Plug-and-play - no software installation required

The big thing is, is they don't mention what kind of screen he's using. Some settings are somewhat static screen to screen like brightness, contrast, and sharpness but color temperature and color are affected by the screen. I tried Arts setting on my Elite cine-white screen and they were no good. I'll post my calibration settings and report sometime next week for those who use the same screen as me.

Good point. How feasible then is bi-wiring HDMI cables - splitting at source and merging at device?


Thanks. And it looks like your 75 foot cable is about 10 feet longer than the amp is rated to drive. (Device to Display-20m/65 feet)

Edit: Didn't notice that rating was for 24AWG stated further down. Still, I would look into that if I were you