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The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread - Page 274

post #8191 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by F12Bwth View Post

This will either help or hurt the conversation.


I've given this one some thought too smile.gif

I have 20/20 vision and at 11.75' the only difference in resolution that I can really make out between the two sizes would be the text in blue ray menus or title screens. The characters at 108" look the slightest bit jagged whereas on the 100" they are perfectly smooth, moving about 2 ft closer from my sitting position on the 100" screen also reveals the jaggedness so its not a projector issue.

One thing I haven't done is look at some DVD content... I have an oppo 103 and hope the video processor will do a decent job. I figure there won't be much of a difference between the 108" and 100" with SD material at my distance.
post #8192 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

Possible, but check that the pj is completely level, front to back and side to side and the lens is parallel to the screen. Also make sure no keystone adjustments are being made in the menu.
I've checked the leveling several times. I've even turned the pj at various angles to create different distortions, without being able to eliminate the one on the bottom. I'll check it again tonight. Seems like a mounting issue would cause a uniform slope from one side to another, not a bow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eyekode View Post

Also check that the screen is square and not bowed up or down. Also make sure it is flat. Note that most walls are not great as a flat reference. Most are actually wavy.
Salem

I'm using a wall mounted electric Seymour screen. Consequently, the screen is free hanging and shouldn't be bowed. I've checked the tension system to make sure. I'll check it again. Thanks
post #8193 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinwoodward View Post

if you move your viewing position is it still in the same place?

i have some reflections that bounce of my lens back onto the screen...

Yeah I see it regardless of where I sit, but it is possible that it could be a reflection, something like that. I'll mess with it tonight.
post #8194 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by mva5580 View Post

Got a question about my 8350.

So I've noticed that up in the top right corner of the screen, I see this relatively small (in comparison to the full 80" screen at least) circle of faint light when the image is dark. I can't really describe it....it almost kind of looks like those little circles you may see if you stare at the sun for a second and then close your eyes and reopen them. That's probably a horrible description but I can't think of anything better. I've tried cleaning the lens and it's still there. Something to be alarmed about?
Dust blob most likely
post #8195 of 8634
Would a dust blob stay even after I wiped the lamp? Because I've done that, and yet it's still there.

I also actually have one more question, in reference to the lamp life. The one thing that I'm a little concerned about at this point is how many posts I've read from people who had lamps that died after like 700, 800, 1000 or so hours even though the stated life is 4000. Now I understand how those stated #'s work....it's inflated. It's like their exact perfect scenario situation and they can state 4000 hours even if in the majority of their testing it was below that. I seem to have read a few places where the belief was that the early run of lamps for these had a defect, and it was corrected. Can that be verified by anyone?

I'm by no means expecting 4000 hours out of my lamp, hell if I get 2500 hours out of it that would satisy me. But if it dies on me after like 1000 hours....I'm not so sure I'd be willing to stick with this projector.

I use ECO Mode by the way, if it really matters that much.
post #8196 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by mva5580 View Post

Would a dust blob stay even after I wiped the lamp? Because I've done that, and yet it's still there.

I also actually have one more question, in reference to the lamp life. The one thing that I'm a little concerned about at this point is how many posts I've read from people who had lamps that died after like 700, 800, 1000 or so hours even though the stated life is 4000. Now I understand how those stated #'s work....it's inflated. It's like their exact perfect scenario situation and they can state 4000 hours even if in the majority of their testing it was below that. I seem to have read a few places where the belief was that the early run of lamps for these had a defect, and it was corrected. Can that be verified by anyone?

I'm by no means expecting 4000 hours out of my lamp, hell if I get 2500 hours out of it that would satisy me. But if it dies on me after like 1000 hours....I'm not so sure I'd be willing to stick with this projector.

I use ECO Mode by the way, if it really matters that much.

The dust spec, if that is what it is, is actually on the lcd panel area. Cleaning the lens won't get rid of it. I don't know if the lamps were the entire problem in these units. The good news is, Epson is replacing them for customers up to the 2 yr warranty, and usually a bit past it, bad news is they still may not last past 2000 hrs.

Eco mode, and 'high altitude mode" may help, as well as insuring the filters are in good condition. No one will be able to guarantee you'll get 1000 hrs, its a roll of the dice.
post #8197 of 8634
Ok, so I have had my 8350 since late December. I purchased it to replace an old Panasonic PJ so the ceiling mount was already in place and positioned. I had a professional installer come and mount it and run a HDMI cable to it (the old PJ just had component connections). Since then I have really enjoyed this new projector. I mean as compared to the old one (720p) with component cables, this one is awesome!

Now I have been periodically checking into this site and couldn't help but read all the comments about issues with convergence, etc. I began to wonder if I was getting the most out of my be 8350. I purchased the Disney WOW DVD and began running it through the calibration test. The first thing I noticed was that the picture was a little off using the ASPECT ratio calibration. It didn't look level, so I leveled it(to the screen). Then I noticed that the picture narrowed as you went from bottom (wider) to top (narrow). I couldn't figure out how to adjust for that, does anyone have any suggestions?

Second I found that my convergence was off ever so slightly. From where I sit, it really isn't noticeable, but when I went up directly in front of the screen, there was definitely a lack of convergence. My question is, what is the PJ's specification on convergence? I mean I don't assume that the convergence is supposed to be perfect at every screen size and throw distance (is it). I would expect to find that my non-convergence is within spec, as I have truly enjoyed watching my new projector and am continually amazed by its picture.

Any thoughts or advice on theses two subjects would be greatly appreciated.
post #8198 of 8634
If it is wider on the bottom than the top then the projector is not pointing directly at the screen it is pointing down a hair. It takes a fair amount of patience to level a projector.
I have a geared projector mount which makes it easier: http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372598310&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=peerles+prgnv+projector
But even then it takes patience.

If you are seeing any amount of "keystoning" then the projector is not square (left right, up down) to the screen.

As for convergence, I would say if you cannot see it from your viewing position you are fine smile.gif. When I got my projector the convergence was very bad. I could see the problem in movie material. For example when there was black right against white I would see a very noticeable colored halo. It killed highlight detail. I had to send that one back. With the new one I can notice some convergence error on fine text but not on movie material. I am happy!
Good luck!
Salem
post #8199 of 8634
As the previous poster mentioned, level the pj. Front to back, side to side, then use the lens shift and zoom to place the image onto the screen. Keystone shouldn't be used if at all possible. Convergence difference within 1 pixel can be considered normal, more than that and you might want to consider a return.
post #8200 of 8634
This projector is one that I am considering as my first projector...can someone tell me how long the power cord is? I am trying to figure out whether or noti would hang this from the ceiling.
post #8201 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtrscort View Post

This projector is one that I am considering as my first projector...can someone tell me how long the power cord is? I am trying to figure out whether or noti would hang this from the ceiling.

 

I think it's about 6 ft. long. However, it's a standard 3-prong removable desktop computer power supply cord. Meaning, you can replace it with whatever size you can find.

 

Also, if too long ... wire-tie it up. Too short, add a nice extension cord.

post #8202 of 8634
I bought a 1.5 footer from my local electronics store... You do it Electronics... 3.00.
post #8203 of 8634
Any recommendations for a good 80" screen to go with this? I bought a cheap "Elite" screen on Amazon and while its ok for what it is, I feel like I could do much better.

My room is pretty well controlled in terms of light, however during the day some will get in. I'm just interested in getting a screen that will provide me with an upgrade in terms of picture quality, however I'm not looking to spend thousands of dollars on a screen. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
post #8204 of 8634
I think my Panoview Gray Wolf II comes in an 80" version. My 92" was cheap and the High Contrast Grey really pops that image out.
post #8205 of 8634
I'm not seeing an 80" version of that....anyone have input on Carada? I had my eye specifically on this one:

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H080C

I'd be willing to pay that and I really, really like that it's framed as well. But I guess at the same time I want to ensure that I'm not just paying ~$650 for the framing, I want to be sure that the screen is an upgrade as well.

If I were to go with it, I'm guessing I should get the high contrast grey?
post #8206 of 8634
if you get us let us know how it is.
my framed screen was 320.00 and seems fine to me, maybe this is that much nicer?
post #8207 of 8634
Hi,
I didn’t find a specific thread for introductions, so I will provide a quick one (I hope):

I have been a lurker for several years. I bought my first house last year, 2012, and am converting one of the rooms in to a theater room. I call it theater 1.0. It is functional, but has holes in the walls (from running cables) to patch and then paint. Then it will be theater 2.0 and I am planning theater 3.0. I have been a home theater since the early 1900’s. Since I am in the Epson 8350 thread, this is the projector I chose after researching it here on avsforums. The Epson 8350 projects on to a 98” low budget black out cloth (BOC), matte white, with a gain of 1.1. I plan to upgrade to a 100” or larger (106” max”) screen and am still debating to go the Wilsonart D354 approach or a pre-manufactured fixed screen. My audio system consists of an Integra DTR7 connected to a Rotel RMB 1095 5 channel amplifier. The Rotel amp powers Polk LS90 mains, Polk LS350 center, and LS FX rear speakers. My room is 13’ x 19’, so Dolby Digital 5.1 is sufficient and I don’t think it is big enough for 6.1 or greater. The audio is complimented by a Velodyne ULD-18. Some say the sub is too big for the room, but is sounds great.

Here is a picture of Theater 1.0. Since the picture, I have removed the wrinkles from the BOC and upgraded the mains from Polk LS50 to LS90.



Since this is the thread for the Epson 8350, I will get back on track. I am mostly impressed with the projector. As the replies on this message board mentioned, after some tweaking, the image is incredible for a projector in this price range. I can only imagine how much better it will be with a better screen. As many owners already have experienced, bulb life is not very good with this projector. The first bulb lasted 900 hours. After researching this issue and reading up about power cycling, I decided to leave it on all day. Having the projector on all day, only one power cycle per day, the second lamp had a life of 2,000 hours. Like many, I just replace the lamp. It is still cheaper than a projector costing 2 to 3 times or more, that will probably have similar lamp life.

OK, I have been experiencing an issue that I have not been able to find any information on. I think it relates to polarizer burn, but it repairs itself. The issue just showed up after replacing the lamp for the third time. The second lamp actually exploded inside the casing. After watching standard definition (4:3), then returning to HDTV (16:9), I get slightly darker areas where the side bars used to be.

Here is an image I found online and photoshopped to use as an example.



The more 4:3, the worse the image when returning to 16:9. After watching only 16:9 for a few hours, it begins to fix itself. From reading about polarizer burn, I don’t think it could be that. Any ideas? What other information can I provide to better diagnose this issue?
post #8208 of 8634
Sorry I cannot help you but what do you mean by "leave it on all day"? Previously you were turning off the hard (rocker) power switch?
Thanks!
Salem
post #8209 of 8634
From reading about the lamp here on avsforums, turning the projector on, then off is one power cycle. I turn it off and on using only the remote. If I were to turn the projector on in the morning, I leave it on all day and turn off at night before bed. Where as before I would turn it off and on 2 to 3 times a day sometimes.

Another interesting thing I noticed about the darker areas after watching 4:3 shows, is that it seems to not be as noticeable in eco mode. The quality of the image just appears better in normal, but this could be another variable in diagnosing the problem. More time is needed to find out if there really is a difference in eco vs normal modes.
post #8210 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fun5ten View Post

The more 4:3, the worse the image when returning to 16:9. After watching only 16:9 for a few hours, it begins to fix itself. From reading about polarizer burn, I don’t think it could be that. Any ideas? What other information can I provide to better diagnose this issue?

Sounds like Image Retention. I had a Desktop Gadget cause it on even my IPS-LCD 24" Dell UltraSharp. It was corrected with the built-in "slides" but taught me that no panel is immune to it. I'd imagine it's worse with non-Eco Mode because it's brighter.

 

On my 1080p plasma (especially) and this LCD projector, I'm pretty careful. It's not hard these days on TimeWarner to play 16:9 (HD) instead. If I must watch 4:3, I digital zoom to full width and slightly cut-off top and bottom (to keep aspect). In fact, they have that preset setting on the DVR modes. Like I said, I have a nice plasma, so we got used to this. I guess I'm suggesting that you stop native 4:3 viewing because it's not necessary or worth the gamble.

 

My room is not light controlled, so I always run on Non-Eco. I'll have to check my "bulb hours" some time, but I'm still on my first. Hearing about a 900-hour is not uncommon so I think that was just a weak bulb. Epson has been known to replace those under warranty. I think 2000 hours is the average. I wouldn't expect to get more than 3000, even on 100% Eco. You can try less cycles, but you are going to hit the hours-mark faster. Personally, I think the genuine Epson bulbs are better than the cheap clones.

post #8211 of 8634
Thanks Tesla1856 smile.gif

It makes sense now and after a few articles I read from Google searching Image Retention, it explains it pretty well. It appears that DLP is immune, as is LED displays.

More content is being broadcast in 16:9 nowadays, but I do like to watch the occasional 4:3 show. I will try the 4:30 stretch mode maintaining aspect ratio. I am currently helping a friend get back on his feet after losing a job and place to stay. He has been watching old shows on Netflix through his XBOX360. This is when the image retention became noticeable. Since the 8350 can have a different profile(memory 1-10) for type of signal, when his or my XBOX360 is being displayed, the projector is on ECO mode now. I also told my friend to watch an hour of 4:3, then a couple hours of 16:9, rather than several hours of 4:3 in a row.

I too prefer genuine Epson lamps. From reading horror stories here and other sites about non-Epson housings causing damage to the projector, I am sticking with genuine Epson lamps. I get mine through Newegg.

I have yet to do a study on leaving the projector on all day, with power to run it and reaching max bulb hours earlier as you mentioned, or having 2 or 3 power cycles per day. It took about 8 months for me to get to the 900 hours on the first bulb. But with my friend using it now, it reaches 900 hours in about 2 months, but that also includes leaving it on all day. If I were to replace the lamp every 2 to 3 months, I would be approaching lamp cost annually close to what the projector costs. Sure hope my friend can find work and move out soon to return to replacing the lamp close to annually.

My projector is mainly run in normal mode and color set to dynamic.

Curious as to what others do with their 8350 projector. Do you turn yours off/on more than one time per day or leave it on all day like I do? What are your lamp life hours?
post #8212 of 8634
What aspect ratio screen should I get for my Epson 8350? I was going to get a 16:9 screen but now am thinking about 2.35.1 wide screen. I want to use this PJ for gaming (Xbox one), HDTV, Blu-rays... I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct? Also, the Epson doesn't have auto zoom so I'll need to manually adjust it when from the different sources to get the correct aspect ratio?

Which screen should I get - I would like to purchase it within a week.

I was considering the 120in 16:9 Focupix high contrast grey screen with .9 gain found here:

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix-Widescreen-Fixed-Frame-Screen-125-p/40027.htm
post #8213 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fun5ten View Post

Thanks Tesla1856 smile.gif

It makes sense now and after a few articles I read from Google searching Image Retention, it explains it pretty well. It appears that DLP is immune, as is LED displays.

More content is being broadcast in 16:9 nowadays, but I do like to watch the occasional 4:3 show. I will try the 4:30 stretch mode maintaining aspect ratio. I am currently helping a friend get back on his feet after losing a job and place to stay. He has been watching old shows on Netflix through his XBOX360. This is when the image retention became noticeable. Since the 8350 can have a different profile(memory 1-10) for type of signal, when his or my XBOX360 is being displayed, the projector is on ECO mode now. I also told my friend to watch an hour of 4:3, then a couple hours of 16:9, rather than several hours of 4:3 in a row.

I too prefer genuine Epson lamps. From reading horror stories here and other sites about non-Epson housings causing damage to the projector, I am sticking with genuine Epson lamps. I get mine through Newegg.

I have yet to do a study on leaving the projector on all day, with power to run it and reaching max bulb hours earlier as you mentioned, or having 2 or 3 power cycles per day. It took about 8 months for me to get to the 900 hours on the first bulb. But with my friend using it now, it reaches 900 hours in about 2 months, but that also includes leaving it on all day. If I were to replace the lamp every 2 to 3 months, I would be approaching lamp cost annually close to what the projector costs. Sure hope my friend can find work and move out soon to return to replacing the lamp close to annually.

My projector is mainly run in normal mode and color set to dynamic.

Curious as to what others do with their 8350 projector. Do you turn yours off/on more than one time per day or leave it on all day like I do? What are your lamp life hours?

DLP might be immune. I doubt LED-LCD is because that is just LCD with a different backlight. However, it might just be IPS-LCD that's susceptible because it's quite a bit different than TN-LCD tech. Not sure if these tiny 3LCD panels are closer to TN, IPS, or something else entirely.

 

Right, try 4:3 ZOOM to 16:9. But not STRETCH ... that makes everyone look fat because of the distorted aspect-ratio (unless you don't mind that). Bottom line, use the whole 16:9 screen.

 

The friend thing sounds temporary. My viewing habits don't apply (someone else will have to chime in) because we mostly use the plasma. We mostly only use the 8350 at dusk/night for a movie 2-3 times a week.

post #8214 of 8634
Hi, I'm throwing together a HT for my dorm room this fall and am trying to figure out my projector and screen options. For the projector I need good placement flexibility so it'll fit in future dorms/apartments. The projector's likely gonna go on a wooden component stand between the two beds. For the screen I'm pretty limited because I can only attach stuff to the wall using sticky tack and scotch tape. I was thinking of maybe just a sheet of background paper with some velveteen fabric taped around the edges. Thoughts on this? I might do it without the fabric frame because I'm worried the picture will be a pain to fit in the frame since the projector's not mounted. The walls are also a somewhat reflective tan.

The room only has one window in the corner and I'm planning on adding a cheapo blackout curtain on top of it to get the room really dark. I also have the Disney WOW calibration blu-ray. How good do you think the picture would look with this projector on a paper screen like this? Enough that I wouldn't wish I still had my $400 Samsung LED TV from last year?
post #8215 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowkae View Post

Hi, I'm throwing together a HT for my dorm room this fall and am trying to figure out my projector and screen options. For the projector I need good placement flexibility so it'll fit in future dorms/apartments. The projector's likely gonna go on a wooden component stand between the two beds. For the screen I'm pretty limited because I can only attach stuff to the wall using sticky tack and scotch tape. I was thinking of maybe just a sheet of background paper with some velveteen fabric taped around the edges. Thoughts on this? I might do it without the fabric frame because I'm worried the picture will be a pain to fit in the frame since the projector's not mounted. The walls are also a somewhat reflective tan.

The room only has one window in the corner and I'm planning on adding a cheapo blackout curtain on top of it to get the room really dark. I also have the Disney WOW calibration blu-ray. How good do you think the picture would look with this projector on a paper screen like this? Enough that I wouldn't wish I still had my $400 Samsung LED TV from last year?

There is a calculator at epson.com. You need some room length for a big screen size. What color and texture is the wall bare?

 

Depending on room size (and the fact that you can't really "install anything") ... a nice big HDTV might be a smarter move ... definitely an easier install.

post #8216 of 8634
for whatever your paying to that school, can't they let you put some holes in the wall if you promise to patch them up?
what has this country become?
post #8217 of 8634
What aspect ratio screen should I get for my Epson 8350? I was going to get a 16:9 screen but now am thinking about 2.35.1 wide screen. I want to use this PJ for gaming (Xbox one), HDTV, Blu-rays... I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct? Also, the Epson doesn't have auto zoom so I'll need to manually adjust it when from the different sources to get the correct aspect ratio?

Which screen should I get - I would like to purchase it within a week.

I was considering the 120in 16:9 Focupix high contrast grey screen with .9 gain found here:

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix-Widescreen-Fixed-Frame-Screen-125-p/40027.htm
post #8218 of 8634
>>I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct?

No, the aspect ratios differ between different movies, even on Bluray. Cinemascope (2.35:1 / 2.4:1) is cool, but it does complicate things. You'll have to decide how you're going to deal with scaling the picture to fit your screen, and there are a few options: anamorphic lens; zoom method (make the image larger for cinemascope); "shrink" method (make the image smaller for 16:9). Pros and cons to each method. If the majority of your use will be movies, and "epic movies" at that (which tend to be cinemascope, vs. say comedies), 2.35:1 makes a lot of sense; if it will be 50+% 16:9 (comedy movies, sports, gaming), maybe not as much sense.
post #8219 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

>>I understand that blu-rays will be 2.35.1 but not the rest, is that correct?

No, the aspect ratios differ between different movies, even on Bluray. Cinemascope (2.35:1 / 2.4:1) is cool, but it does complicate things. You'll have to decide how you're going to deal with scaling the picture to fit your screen, and there are a few options: anamorphic lens; zoom method (make the image larger for cinemascope); "shrink" method (make the image smaller for 16:9). Pros and cons to each method. If the majority of your use will be movies, and "epic movies" at that (which tend to be cinemascope, vs. say comedies), 2.35:1 makes a lot of sense; if it will be 50+% 16:9 (comedy movies, sports, gaming), maybe not as much sense.

Thanks for the input. So games even xbox one is 16:9? HDTV I believe is 16:9. It looks like to do less adjusting on the PJ 16:9 is a good option.
post #8220 of 8634
Quote:
There is a calculator at epson.com. You need some room length for a big screen size. What color and texture is the wall bare?



Depending on room size (and the fact that you can't really "install anything") ... a nice big HDTV might be a smarter move ... definitely an easier install.

It's actually a larger dorm room: 11.5' X 16.5', so it's big enough to have a larger setup. I drew out a rough diagram


The only difference I'm planning is to put the projector on a component stand and keep everything else beneath it. The throw distance would be 8-9ish feet, so it would be on the low end of the projector's capabilities. The walls are shiny tan and slightly rough - don't know much more than that.

I've been using a 40" HDTV and it still takes up an entire dresser. The projector might even save space as long as the dimensions are favorable. The only problem is it would have to be stored somewhere when not in use as it could be kicked by someone sleeping at night if we leave it out.

Also keep in mind that I move into a new dorm every school year, live at home during the summer, and will eventually move into an apartment. So every location I move to will likely need a different sized screen. That's why I need something cheap, makeshift, and easily taken down.
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