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The Offical Epson 8350 Owners Thread - Page 277

post #8281 of 8634
Hmm. It looks to me like the keystone is the same on both sides at the top of my image (meaning, I assume, that my projector is perpendicular with my screen in the horizontal plane but not the vertical plane, which would be correct as it's mounted above my screen). So it sounds like I should put it back to shining straight ahead, with most of the image being projected at the top of and above my screen, and then move the image down using the lens-shift controls. I'll do that. Thanks.
post #8282 of 8634
I received my refurbished 8350 from Visual Apex last week and it came with a dust blob and discoloration on 1/4 of the left side of the screen in Cinema and lower modes. The discoloration went away if use the two top high light modes(Dynamic and living room). (BTW: You can hear some mechanical shifting noise when move from high power modes such as Living room to Cinema mode).Convergence is very good on this one. Due to the issue with the discoloration I sent this one back and just received another refurbished 8350 yesterday. But this one is DoA. The focus ring is stuck and the zoom ring is stiff/hard to turn. Convergence is way bad on this new one also. But this may due to the focus is stuck. So will send this one back next week. Now I am not sure what to get. Thinking about may be replaced this with refurbished 5010? I want to go with DLP but RBE is bad for me. So anyhow here is how to clean the dust blobs on the 8350:
Yes cleaning the dust blobs on the Espon 8350 is fairly easy. You need a small Philip crew driver to take the top cover off and a compressed air spray can. To take the top cover off, you need to remove all the crews on the side panels. These are the brown side covers on both sides of the projector. They are held by 3 crews on the bottom. Just remove these crews and side panels can be taking out by pulling on the bottom part outward. Then remove all the crews that on the bottom cover. These crews hold the top cover to the bottom cover. Once you remove these crews you can turn the projector over and pull the top cover straight up. It will come out easily. One notice, There will be 2 ribbons cables that you will need to remove to take the cover off. One is on the side panel that has all the controls for adjustment. Other is on the top cover. These can be taking out by releasing the small plastic clamp on the socket where the ribbon cable is attached to the board. If you have a good helper you may be able to leave these ribbon cables in and have them hold the covers for you while you do the spraying. To spray the dust blobs, you need to locate the 3 LCD ribbons cables coming from the LCDs to the top circuit board. The LCDs are covered by the circuit board, but you can use the openings where the ribbon cables go through the board to spray the dust blobs. The spray can comes with the extension tube, use it to get access to the LCDs area. Make sure the spray can is always in vertical position. I sprayed short bursts of air to the LCDs area may be about 5 minutes. Most of the 5 minutes is to reposition the can and projector. Spray time is much less may be 1 minute. Hold/position the projector any way to allow you to make sure the spray can is vertical at all time. After this I was able to remove the dust blobs on my 8350.
Edited by nphan - 8/4/13 at 1:48pm
post #8283 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Most Mfg Retractable Screens come with Hardware that adapts to either Wall or Ceiling mounting options. For a Wall installation, you would need to install some Blocks for such Hardware to attach to that moves the Screen's drop bar to at least 3/4" forward of the TV's face. With most Flat Panels using a Low Profile Wall Mount, that will mean at least 3".

But if any such installation deserves to be considered "iffy", it would be the above. A strong, sizable block, one that extends to cover at least one stud, and whose surface in contact with the wall is reinforced by using Wood Glue would be at minimum the recommended way to go. When a heavy object is extended out at right angles, both it's weight and gravity increases the pull (down force) at the lowest point of contact, and does so in a multiple of the actual weight of the given object. Anything that "hangs" only depends upon the basic "Holding Strength" of both the fastener and material combined.

Not trying to be either snippy or anything, but the preceding comments about the usefulness and effectiveness....and reliability of both Drywall and Anchors are way...WAY off the mark. They seem to be coming from those with limited experience, as well as repeating comments coming from other such sources.

Basically, I have done many installations on Drywall surfaces, involving TVs, Screens, Projectors, Speaker Cabinetry, etc....both Horizontal and Vertical, using "appropriate" Anchors, and never...not one time has either safety or dependability been jeopardized. To see any comment that effectively tries to exclude the use of "properly chosen & installed" Drywall Anchors...even going so far as to warn someone to not even attempt such, is tantamount to denying someone a viable installation method on what amounts to speculative reasoning. I say that because any experiences that involve proper selection and use amounts to exactly that...experience.

It seems more like the comments above are based on limited experience with Anchors other than the Toggle type. I don't want to explore...or even consider that such experiences might also involve a less-than proper use thereof.

All that said, I don't want to start a row on this Thread over Anchors. cool.gif

Just for digestion:
  • Any vertically installed Anchor is only as strong as it's interior surface contact and the degree of compression. Toggle Anchors are stronger than "Expandable Sleeve" Anchors by a factor of almost 5x...even more as the width of the Toggle increases.
  • The above also applies to Anchors installed on a Flat, Horizontal surface
  • A Toggle Anchor's strength is directly proportionate to the width of of the Toggle, combined with the size of the contacting exterior base of the assembly being hung.
  • A vertically hung Anchor of ANY given design / size will have less effective holding strength than a identically installed Anchor on a Horizontal surface.
  • If a clean, non-pushed-through "Drilled" hole is effected through Drywall to install a Toggle Anchor, absolutely no surface tension strength is compromised.
  • Obviously, if one can gain access to the area above where a Object is to be mounted onto a Ceiling, gluing down even a 4" x 4" x 1/2" piece of Plywood, then drilling through that and installing a Toggle Anchor will effect a even greater assurance of lateral holding strength

Any modest sized Retractable Screen (106" & under) or any PJ weighing in under 25 lbs should present no issues if a proper installation of the fasteners is accommodated. Absolutely, the previous advice given stressing caution is well founded, however along with that, it should be stressed that exercising such caution by following directions exactly, and/or taking paints to improve any supporting structure's integrity when it's in anyway in doubt, can only be construed as being....a good thing.
This sort of thing cannot hurt, although it does bulk up what might otherwise be a more pristine installation. I have done similar, but my real motive was to "cover" the Hole I made to bring out wiring and the access to a Electrical Box mounted up inside a Floor or Ceiling. Even then, the use of Anchors to "Clamp" a Mount assembly to the Ceiling is the final touch.

Great info! Thanks!
post #8284 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by nphan View Post

Yes cleaning the dust blobs on the Espon 8350 is fairly easy. You need a small Philip crew driver to take the top cover off and a compressed air spray can. To take the top cover off, you need to remove all the crews on the side panels. These are the brown side covers on both sides of the projector. They are held by 3 crews on the bottom. Just remove these crews and side panels can be taking out by pulling on the bottom part outward. Then remove all the crews that on the bottom cover. These crews hold the top cover to the bottom cover. Once you remove these crews you can turn the projector over and pull the top cover straight up. It will come out easily. One notice, There will be 2 ribbons cables that you will need to remove to take the cover off. One is on the side panel that has all the controls for adjustment. Other is on the top cover. These can be taking out by releasing the small plastic clamp on the socket where the ribbon cable is attached to the board. If you have a good helper you may be able to leave these ribbon cables in and have them hold the covers for you while you do the spraying. To spray the dust blobs, you need to locate the 3 LED ribbons cables coming from the LEDs to the top circuit board. The LEDs are covered by the circuit board, but you can use the openings where the ribbon cables go through the board to spray the dust blobs. The spray can comes with the extension tube, use it to get access to the LEDs area. Make sure the spray can is always in vertical position. I sprayed short bursts of air to the LEDs area may be about 5 minutes. Most of the 5 minutes is to reposition the can and projector. Spray time is much less may be 1 minute. Hold/position the projector any way to allow you to make sure the spray can is vertical at all time. After this I was able to remove the dust blobs on my 8350.

Any way to remove the blobs without all of this disassembly? Could one just remove, say the filter and the lamp and just spray thru the filter area with a vac hose in the other? Anybody ever try this?
post #8285 of 8634
NO you need to get access to the LCDs. It is not hard to remove the top cover. These crews are easy to get to and once they are out you can lift the top cover up easily. Can be done slowly in less than 10 minutes. Sometimes, you may even need to remove the circuit board to have better aim at the LCDs. But I was able to remove the dust blob on my 8350 w/o remove the top circuit board.
post #8286 of 8634
FYI - ALWAYS blow air from the optical Block out! If you try to back blow air through the filter you will blow more dust onto the block. If you can,,, use Fuzzy sticks from walmart. They look like pipe cleaners. They will get into the crevices and spaces between the LCD Panels. ALWAYS make sure you know how the 3 LCD ribbon cables on the optical block disconnect from the main board. Some flip up some slide about 1/32 of an inch. They are VERY delicate so BE CAREFUL! The quickest way to check the condition of the optical block is to put up a white screen image and move the lens all the way in and all the way out of focus. Lots of specks indicate lots of dust.
Bohanna
post #8287 of 8634
post #8288 of 8634
Thx for the info!
post #8289 of 8634
Hey guys I just got my 8350 today from best buy. i can't wait to hook it up, but wont be able to for another 2 weeks. I got the 2 year warranty which was 160 and includes 1 bulb replacement. I'm kind of second guessing myself though and wondering if i should go back and upgrade to the 4 year warranty which cost 260 and still only includes 1 bulb replacement. Anybody got any thoughts on whether or not the longer warranty is worth it? also how much do bulbs cost for this unit?
post #8290 of 8634
i bought an 8350 in january or so at best buy with a 2 year warranty...in terms of a longer warranty, I decided against it as there will probably be better projectors in two years at the same price range then...i would speculate. regardless, I am sure I will want an excuse to upgrade eek.gif
post #8291 of 8634
Why bother with the 2 yr BB warranty? Projector comes with a 2 yr warranty and they are generous with the bulb replacemetn. Certainly can get at least 1 out of them. If you are paying, 4yr is the way to go. The 2 yr is a waste of money. If you are replacing with 4k in 2 yrs, no need for a warranty at all!
post #8292 of 8634
Or purchase with Amex as it doubles the manufacturer warranty.
post #8293 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by pagan97 View Post

Why bother with the 2 yr BB warranty? Projector comes with a 2 yr warranty and they are generous with the bulb replacemetn. Certainly can get at least 1 out of them. If you are paying, 4yr is the way to go. The 2 yr is a waste of money. If you are replacing with 4k in 2 yrs, no need for a warranty at all!

Oh I was unaware Epson had a 2 year warranty on it already, and I definitely didn't think that included a bulb replacement. Is that only if it fails prematurely? and then what defines premature? Obviously I would expect them to replace if it failed in the first few hundred hours but would they replace it after say 1000 hours? Just kinda wondering if there's a set criteria for the epson warranty bulb replacement or if it just depends on who you get to handle your claim. It sounds like I should have asked this question before I bought it.
post #8294 of 8634
I bought the warranty so I could get any problem in the next 2 Years, bulb or otherwise, solved quickly in person. I almost never buy warranties, but this was, to me, a worthy exception. I hope to never need it though!
post #8295 of 8634
Just picked up an 8350. I'm new to PJs. Is the default test pattern (crosshairs) the best way to quickly check convergence and sharpness? Anything else a new owner should know besides reading the manual cover to cover?
post #8296 of 8634
I had to place my 8350 much too close to the wall, since I'm really pushing the projection distance. Thought about adding a rear fan (the air intake is there) to help the air flow. I gather it should be set to push the air -I mean: not pull it; am I right? Should it blow directly on the intake, or just make it pass to the other side? How fast should it go? Any tips would be very very welcome.
Edited by fedocable - 8/12/13 at 12:59pm
post #8297 of 8634
Another possible option, and maybe better, would be to hang a medium table fan at some distance at a side if the pj, so to help with the air flow back there and at the same time keep the whole pj cooler. How about that?
post #8298 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by talk2rider View Post


Awesome! Let the lamp death watch begin!

Wish I didn't have to agree with this completely. The lamp life in comparison to the rating is criminal.
post #8299 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven Kelley View Post

Same here, I went through (4) 8350's from over heating, dust bolbs, auto iris errors. I did however make it to 768hrs on one of the four projectors, but got a full refund back from Epson at the end.
I too went with the PT-AE8000U after the 8350. Not a single problem and up to 1000hrs so far with it.

Wow, I would be really interested as to how you got a full refund. As far as I'm concerned when a product fails to meet its specifications by this much of a margin refunds should be in the discussion. INterestingly enough, i'm considering the AE8000 myself. This 8350 has damaged my trust in these products however.
post #8300 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by petesamprs View Post

Just picked up an 8350. I'm new to PJs. Is the default test pattern (crosshairs) the best way to quickly check convergence and sharpness? Anything else a new owner should know besides reading the manual cover to cover?

Focusing is best accomplished using text on the screen. The pattern works well for getting your image size and centering correct, but the crosshair didnt really work for me. The lamp timer / clock does not start running til after 10 hrs. I would give it a good workout, check convergence using text, and use it alot during the first 30 days. Any problems and epson will replace with new in first 30, after that you get a refurb. Keep the air filter clean and expect dust blobs that will come and go. Auto iris off, unless watching in the dark, then turn auto iris off before power down. The only time I did not do this I got the auto iris error, so I make it part of my routine. After 100 hrs, calibrate and cross fingers.
post #8301 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by pagan97 View Post

Focusing is best accomplished using text on the screen.

Why I made this. http://i7.minus.com/irJ7TFmU5M7OL.png

post #8302 of 8634
From the Matrix? smile.gif
post #8303 of 8634
Wow! How is that working for ya?
post #8304 of 8634
I'm having a problem projecting a proper image with the 8350. Am using a Peerless wall mount. The problem I'm having is on the left side, starting about halfway down all the way to the bottom, the image projects at a diagonal, inward angle. I've attached a picture. What's weird is both the top and bottom appear to be perfectly straight, and also the right side is straight as far as I can tell, it's just that bottom left side that has the issue. The Peerless mount I'm using has independent yaw, roll, and pitch control, but I've fiddled with these and nothing had an effect. The one thing I haven't yet tried (because it's a pain) is adjusting the "feet" on the mount that attaches to the projector itself, but before I try it was hoping to get any suggestions from fellow 8350 owners. Thanks.

Image.bmp 653k .bmp file
post #8305 of 8634
Thread Starter 
The bottom left front corner of the PJ is just ever so slightly pitched inward, causing the bottom left front corner of the lens to be closest to the screen.

Even with a PJ with Lens Shift, it is important to be certain the Face of the Lens is both level, and plumb (perpendicular) to the wall.
post #8306 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The bottom left front corner of the PJ is just ever so slightly pitched inward, causing the bottom left front corner of the lens to be closest to the screen.

Even with a PJ with Lens Shift, it is important to be certain the Face of the Lens is both level, and plumb (perpendicular) to the wall.

Thanks so much for the quick reply! That makes sense, but I should have added that although I'm using a wall mount, the projector is mounted upside down, as it would be with a ceiling mount. With that in mind, does it change your analysis as to which corner is causing the problem?
post #8307 of 8634
Are you using the horizontal lens shift at all? Maybe you are starting to slightly hit the limit for left/right shift. Note that the range is not a rectangle, its actually an octagon. You can only shift 9% of your width horizontally if you have shifted the max (96% of height) vertically. I think I saw a picture of the lens shift limitations on the last page (Post 8275).
post #8308 of 8634
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude2006 View Post

Thanks so much for the quick reply! That makes sense, but I should have added that although I'm using a wall mount, the projector is mounted upside down, as it would be with a ceiling mount. With that in mind, does it change your analysis as to which corner is causing the problem?

No....

Upright or inverted, the Lens face still must conform to being positioned correctly, as relates to the positioning of the PJ itself to the screen wall.

If the left is out of whack when inverted, the same principles of correction apply.
post #8309 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by mehal88 View Post

Are you using the horizontal lens shift at all? Maybe you are starting to slightly hit the limit for left/right shift. Note that the range is not a rectangle, its actually an octagon. You can only shift 9% of your width horizontally if you have shifted the max (96% of height) vertically. I think I saw a picture of the lens shift limitations on the last page (Post 8275).

I am using horizontal shift but not much at all, as the projector was already almost centered with the screen. After MississippiMan's helpful comments I fiddled with it for a long time last night and while I still have the issue somewhat, it is less noticeable now. Also, I read on another thread that it is hard if not impossible to get a 100% perfectly rectangular image with cheaper lenses like this, and I don't know if that's right or not but I'm pretty happy with how it looks now anyway.
post #8310 of 8634
Quote:
Originally Posted by dude2006 View Post

I am using horizontal shift but not much at all, as the projector was already almost centered with the screen. After MississippiMan's helpful comments I fiddled with it for a long time last night and while I still have the issue somewhat, it is less noticeable now. Also, I read on another thread that it is hard if not impossible to get a 100% perfectly rectangular image with cheaper lenses like this, and I don't know if that's right or not but I'm pretty happy with how it looks now anyway.

That's pretty much me also. I have mine dangerously close to square, then I just increase the zoom a tad and let the 'imperfection' spill over onto the black velvet frame of my screen making it essentially disappear.
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