Originally Posted by yunti
First impression of the glasses isn't good I'm afraid. These are much too loose fitting for me and slide off if I look down briefly.
Can anyone recommend the easiest way to test a blu-ray on pc for dual projection? Can steroscopic player output to dual projection setup up. (Is it still unable to play direct from disc- so will I have to unecrypt the disc using something like makemkv?)
Thanks - hoping this has moved on since I last looked and the process is easier than it used to be.
Yes, I forgot to mention that about the glasses : they do slide off my nose too, I noticed the branches don't have that little curve to hook the ears. It might be part of the reason why they slide so easily.
Playback of BluRay3D :
The last time I did it was a while ago when I ripped Avatar, it was really painful after that, I decided to just download other people rips.
I tried to look for recent alternatives just yesterday since I bought a bunch of new movies.
I cannot run the dual-projectors from BluRay 3D playback software (PowerDVD9 with BR3D support came with the drive), none of them support dual-projectors, or even side by side output. I also get HDCP compliance issues when using Eyefinity.
I used tools from DVDFAB, their free tools don't support the BluRay3D protection so I used the 30days trial of the full version.
Ripping to an .iso file (~1 hour) works nicely to remove the protection, I haven't tried stereoscopic player but PowerDVD no longer complained about HDCP so I guess the encryption is indeed removed. I still haven't tried Stereoscopic player's MVC decoding capability, neither did I try to do a full re-encode using DVDFAB, but I do know that Stereoscopic player supports both the regular dual-head outputs and the Eyefinity trick using side by side at full ratio, so if it can play MVC, it should work.About my colour problems :
I started all over again from the projectors default setting, and tweaked using the "forget about matching colours, just reduce the eye rivalry as much as I can" strategy. I finally obtained a result that I like.
I used the highest brightness modes available ("dynamic" colour mode) at 6500K. I have already posted the picture on the previous page of what the default colours look like out of my Epson EH TW3500.
-step one : the white point : I used the RGB gain setting.
The left eye has a strong green tint, the right eye has a strong pink tint.
I set the left green and right blue gains to -30 (minimum allowed by the projector), and reduced the right red gain a little bit. Whites aren't identical, but they're close, and don't cause eye rivalry.
-step two : primary colours : I used the advanced RGBCMY settings to tweak each individual primary and secondary colours separately.
The first setting to tweak is brightness, and only then change the hue I noticed that a very small amount of brightness disparity caused a lot of eyestrain, whereas colour hue had much more room before starting to cause problems.
The default yellow and the blue were very close to each other to start with,
magenta was very wrong by default but I could match them perfectly with very little tweaking,
green was still strongly unbalanced : but I managed to get it close
red was hard because the left eye had a very strong brightness but little saturation while the right eye was darker but was extremely deeply saturated (I think I've never seen such a deep red on a screen, ever)
cyan was the most annoying one : for some reason, I couldn't make the hue blue enough in the right eye, whenever I tried to push the hue towards blue ended up with white, It took me a long time to find the correct hue combination to get a result that looks approximately the same colour in both eyes.
-step tree : all the in-betweens
Once the main primary and secondary colours were set, I hoped I was done and started watching some movies : I couldn't believe how wrong I had been : every intermediate colours were completely wrong.
The problem was in the RGBCMY colour correction, the brightness and saturation settings act together as a contrast setting for each individual primary and secondary colour. When I did the previous step, I did it with the simple primary colour test pattern (the one shown in the screenshots on the previous page), so I didn't see that I was crushing some colour contrasts in one eye and/or exploding the contrast in the other.
I searched for colour wheels and colour charts on google images, and used a bunch of them.
One of the most interesting one was this one http://realcolorwheel.com/tablet.htg...nwide72dpi.png
. It appears it doesn't cover the entire black to colour to white range, but it was extremely useful to notice big disparities, and where colours were dominating others.
However, even though the charts were very useful they cause some visual overload. I got a lots of surprises testing with actual content that some very specific colours creating bad surprises.
In the end. I managed to get settings that almost please me without killing too much brightness. I am still much lower than what I used to have with standard linear polarising filters (I'm not even talking about the LCD-optimised SPAR filters). However, the Omega filters offer one thing which is priceless : no crosstalk, and for that alone I probably won't be using the polarising filters again.
I am getting more and more satisfied with these filters, even though I still regret I have to kill so much of the light output to correct for the spectrum unbalances of my projectors.
I'd be very curious to read your results regarding the colour in detail to compare with what I get.
I'm interested by this alternative you are suggesting Motorman for LCD projectors. I received your PM, I am just waiting for final checks and yunti's results to try your alternative.
The thing is, I'm not sure whether if it's a lamp issue, a colour filter issue or if it's an LCD issue.Screens :
I tried with the silverscreen and without (projecting directly on the white wall), it's the first time I try to project anything directly on this wall.
The quality of the picture changed dramatically from the silverscreen.
The lack of the sparkling grain caused by the aluminium flakes immediately made the picture super-smooth. Brightness is obviously lower (the silverscreen had 2.4 gain) but it's black levels which take the biggest hit, I only realise now how much the grey screen and the high directivity combine to reject the ambient light of the white walls. It makes me seriously doubt about which screens I should consider for replacement. I now understand how much I underestimated the qualities of my silverscreen.